Rotella T6 in Generator

[ArcticDriver]

Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010


It can be multi-grade. 5w-40 or 15w-50. 20W50 conventional will do fine if it is changed.

The short OCI isn't really that short. With the syn you can push it longer but there is no filtration on these small engines. Changing the oil is the only way to get the crud out.

Fuel dilution is the other problem. You really need to check and top off oil every time you fuel. Under max load they will start burning oil. They only have about a quart to begin with so it doesn't take long to get into trouble.

Break-in also matters. My brother has the 7kW predator generator. 420cc Chonda. Filled it with some M1 EP 10w-30 he had and proceeded to work the snot out of it. Changed the oil at 10 hours to get the sparkles out. That was some black nasty oil that came out. He has another 20hr on it now and the oil is a nice dark amber. That engine will run a long time because a little care was taken.

It can be any oil really as long as it is topped off. The heavier syn are going to burn off less and offer a bit more insurance.


Thanks.

Inventories are slim down here with all of the landscapers having stocked up and some small engine shops are still without power or phone.

I have a gallon jug of Conventional Delvac 1300 15w40 CK-4.

With frequent OCI do you think this would be fine? The HDEO qualities should assist with suspending particulates in the absence of an oil filter.

Originally Posted By: 4WD
My Delvac 1300 15w40 is 4.3 HTHS - 10.8 NOACK - 1300 calcium - 850 mag - 1017 phos - 1140 zinc and I need T6 why?


This is the same jug I have: https://mobildelvac.com/en/engine-oils/mobil-delvac/mobil-delvac-1300-super

 

[ArcticDriver]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: webfors
The manual call for a 40 weight?


Likely calls for a 30 weight, which based on experience, is an improper recommendation for a generator ran for days on end in a Florida summer. The simple fact is, less than 10% of folks are actually checking their oil level at every fuel fillup, and changing their oil every 50 hours.

30 weight is marginal, and acceptable in a best case maintenance scenario.

People are ingrained that they change their oil every 6 months or so in their car, and perhaps once a year in their lawn mower, so they think the generator is the same.


Thanks for all of this important info.

 

[shurguywutt]

Just changed the oil after 100 hrs the other day. Nice amber color. Did not burn any oil with the 10w40 penz yellow bottle. Checked oil again today and still at the same level with no burn off. Been running gen at full load.

My question is, isn't T6 designed for high temps in diesels and turbos? This should make it sufficient for a gen constant 3600 rpms? Thanks.

 

[4WD]

Close - I have some D1300 CJ stash I'm using up ... and just grabbed the D1 on sale ...

 

[leroyd92]

If it's powering my house/ac and Running constantly, i wouldn't use 5wt anything.

15w40
20w50
Straight.

Its getting hot 1 time until you change it. Go thick

 

[SilverFusion2010]

Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010


It can be multi-grade. 5w-40 or 15w-50. 20W50 conventional will do fine if it is changed.

The short OCI isn't really that short. With the syn you can push it longer but there is no filtration on these small engines. Changing the oil is the only way to get the crud out.

Fuel dilution is the other problem. You really need to check and top off oil every time you fuel. Under max load they will start burning oil. They only have about a quart to begin with so it doesn't take long to get into trouble.

Break-in also matters. My brother has the 7kW predator generator. 420cc Chonda. Filled it with some M1 EP 10w-30 he had and proceeded to work the snot out of it. Changed the oil at 10 hours to get the sparkles out. That was some black nasty oil that came out. He has another 20hr on it now and the oil is a nice dark amber. That engine will run a long time because a little care was taken.

It can be any oil really as long as it is topped off. The heavier syn are going to burn off less and offer a bit more insurance.


Thanks.

Inventories are slim down here with all of the landscapers having stocked up and some small engine shops are still without power or phone.

I have a gallon jug of Conventional Delvac 1300 15w40 CK-4.

With frequent OCI do you think this would be fine? The HDEO qualities should assist with suspending particulates in the absence of an oil filter.

Originally Posted By: 4WD
My Delvac 1300 15w40 is 4.3 HTHS - 10.8 NOACK - 1300 calcium - 850 mag - 1017 phos - 1140 zinc and I need T6 why?


This is the same jug I have: https://mobildelvac.com/en/engine-oils/mobil-delvac/mobil-delvac-1300-super


That should do nicely. Keep it topped up and change the oil every 50 hours or so. The first couple of changes are the most important while breakin is happening and it's putting a lot of metal in the oil. Once the engine is broken in you can push that interval out some as long as you keep the sump full.

 

[ArcticDriver]

Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver


Thanks.

Inventories are slim down here with all of the landscapers having stocked up and some small engine shops are still without power or phone.

I have a gallon jug of Conventional Delvac 1300 15w40 CK-4.

With frequent OCI do you think this would be fine? The HDEO qualities should assist with suspending particulates in the absence of an oil filter.


That should do nicely. Keep it topped up and change the oil every 50 hours or so. The first couple of changes are the most important while breakin is happening and it's putting a lot of metal in the oil. Once the engine is broken in you can push that interval out some as long as you keep the sump full.


Thanks for the follow-up.
That was my thinking also.

 

[BufordTJustice]

Originally Posted By: shurguywutt
I have a b&s 5500 generator that I usually run conventional 10w40. Can I run Rotella T6 5w40 or will lower zinc levels affect air cooling? Thanks


I have the same generator, it seems. Mine indicates 5250 running watts.

Have been using T6 for the last several years and for the last week, solid (power came back on Friday of last week). Has been running great and head temps dropped slightly over M1 10w-40 HM according to my IR temp gun.

 

[BufordTJustice]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: webfors
The manual call for a 40 weight?


Likely calls for a 30 weight, which based on experience, is an improper recommendation for a generator ran for days on end in a Florida summer. The simple fact is, less than 10% of folks are actually checking their oil level at every fuel fillup, and changing their oil every 50 hours.

30 weight is marginal, and acceptable in a best case maintenance scenario.

People are ingrained that they change their oil every 6 months or so in their car, and perhaps once a year in their lawn mower, so they think the generator is the same.


I have the same gen as the OP, and you're 100% correct. My manual states 10w-30 (no syn requirement) or 5w-30 in a pinch (again, no syn requirement). Grossly inadequate.

Also, OP, grab a B&S platinum spark plug for your gen after this [censored] subsides and the grid is back to normal. Far easier to start and RPMs stay more stable. Amazon has them (B&S brand) for under $10.

 

[ChrisGuerrero]

Originally Posted By: shurguywutt
I have a b&s 5500 generator that I usually run conventional 10w40. Can I run Rotella T6 5w40 or will lower zinc levels affect air cooling? Thanks


Hi @shurguywutt - Yes, Rotella T6 5W-40 can be used in a gasoline generator so long as the viscosity grade allows an SAE 40. Briggs/Stratton recommends a 10W-30, so you could use Rotella T4 10W-30 (conventional) or Rotella T5 10W-30 (synthetic blend). However, if you are in a hot climate, we would not expect an issue with the 5W-40. These Rotella products listed here have higher levels of zinc and phosphorus than gasoline engine oils by the way. Hope this helps! - The Shell Rotella Team

 

[shurguywutt]

Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Originally Posted By: shurguywutt
I have a b&s 5500 generator that I usually run conventional 10w40. Can I run Rotella T6 5w40 or will lower zinc levels affect air cooling? Thanks


Hi @shurguywutt - Yes, Rotella T6 5W-40 can be used in a gasoline generator so long as the viscosity grade allows an SAE 40. Briggs/Stratton recommends a 10W-30, so you could use Rotella T4 10W-30 (conventional) or Rotella T5 10W-30 (synthetic blend). However, if you are in a hot climate, we would not expect an issue with the 5W-40. These Rotella products listed here have higher levels of zinc and phosphorus than gasoline engine oils by the way. Hope this helps! - The Shell Rotella Team


Awesome, thank you!

 

[antonmnster]

If the engine has decent cooling and is broken in, I don't think running especially a monograde oil way past 50 hours would be much of a big deal. If I were in a hurricane situation, I'd probably let it go 4 or 5 times that.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

Keeping enough oil in it is the important part, esp if you're doing extended runs with thinner oils

 

[rokwldr]

I have a generator with a 10HP B&S and one with a Honda V twin 18HP. Both get NAPA 15-40 universal fleet. Bascily a diesel oil and never a problem.I also use it in my Yamaha 115 four stroke outboard.

 

[JR]

gennies ussually will use oil if a 5w is used. 10w is close too.

I personally run heavy oils, 15w-40, 20w-50, sae30/40. I will sometimes even dump some stp or "lucas" is i have some leftover from a sidework.

I will run 50 hours on the tecumseh and briggs, 100hrs on the honda.
I have a tecumseh ohv 5.5hp I pull all 3kw the head will make, 21oz in, 20-21oz out. 50hr oci's, near 2000hrs.
It seen QS hdx sae30/40 for the first 1000hrs easy, tried syn 5/10w and it lost oil. 15w-40 or sae30 at the thinnest since.


harvey

 

[SilverFusion2010]

It's all splash lubed and air cooled. I would run thick. 15w-40 or 15w-50. Extended run times get the oil really hot and there is some thinning. The thicker oils have more antiwear additives as well

 

[Panzerman]

I don't know anyone except people on here that change thier generator oil at 50 hours. That's way overkill, best part it's the same people that run 10,000 mile oil changes in your car.
During the hurricane. I changed my oil after 5 days of 24 hour running. Checking the oil at fill up, used none.
I was running 10w30 Quaker State Synthetic. Really generators run constant rpm, not in dust, 50 hours, two days is rediculas. BTW the oil looked really good. I am sure I could have doubled that interval.