Im wanting to clean up my 2005 Envoy that was pretty neglected by the previous owner. Ive done a clay bar, Meguiars polishing compound applied/removed by hand and topped with Griots Best of Show. That helped but the paint still has a bunch of scratches/swirls and the hood has what looks to be a few raindrop size spots that almost look like clearcoat failure (Couldn't get them to show good in a picture). I would like to get a DA polisher from Harbor Freight and looking for some recommendation on a readily available product I could pick up at an Advance/O'Reilly Auto to use on the truck to improve its appearance a little.
Recommended polish for neglected finish
- Thread starter carguy996
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Sounds like you need to wet sand with 5k grit and buff back out to get rid of the scratches. Possibly even go to 2k to 3k to 5k then buff.
Meguiar's 105 is a serious compound that finishes out nicely and is widely available. Having the correct pads for the HF buffer is equally important. Don't aim for perfection on a neglected 12 year old ride. As you said "improve it's appearance a little".
Poles speak Polish and Fins speak Finnish (or Swedish) even if they are neglected - unless they are traveling and are schooled in many tongues.
Check out this thread:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...lp.#Post4525580
You can use the same Megs compound but with an HF electric polisher will make all the difference. You can use the HF cutting pads but you'll probably only get one use out of them. But they're not too expensive.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...lp.#Post4525580
You can use the same Megs compound but with an HF electric polisher will make all the difference. You can use the HF cutting pads but you'll probably only get one use out of them. But they're not too expensive.
I'd do the 105 with high cut pad like this:
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-531g
HF sells 105, or you could get Meg's Ultimate compound. Slightly milder version of 105. Then I'd move to 205 or Meg's Ultimate polish with this pad:
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-550g
And then for applying your LSP (last step product, sealant)
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-521g
These pads are good quality. Mine are all a few years old and I use them several times a year. Just clean them out good after you use them and let them dry nice before storing them. I'd recommend getting 2 of each, so you can swap out mid job, especially since this seems like a hard one.
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-531g
HF sells 105, or you could get Meg's Ultimate compound. Slightly milder version of 105. Then I'd move to 205 or Meg's Ultimate polish with this pad:
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-550g
And then for applying your LSP (last step product, sealant)
https://buffandshine.com/collections/dual-action-polisher-pads/products/5-5-flat-da-foam-pads-521g
These pads are good quality. Mine are all a few years old and I use them several times a year. Just clean them out good after you use them and let them dry nice before storing them. I'd recommend getting 2 of each, so you can swap out mid job, especially since this seems like a hard one.
The first time I used a DA polisher, I got over zealous with it and burned the paint. From then on I only polished by hand and use Meguiars products which, to me, are very forgiving when I get rushy. Patience is the key when using a DA polisher.
I used a Flex machine a few years back with Meg. Ultimate Compound and HF pads. First experience with such a machine. What I learned was there was no way I could equal those results by hand. No way.
I also discovered when used properly, you can stop worrying about damaging your paint with such a machine. It just isn't going to happen.
You don't need to buy an expensive machine like the Flex...but you do need to use a polisher with a driven head to obtain the results you seek.
I also discovered when used properly, you can stop worrying about damaging your paint with such a machine. It just isn't going to happen.
You don't need to buy an expensive machine like the Flex...but you do need to use a polisher with a driven head to obtain the results you seek.
Exactly what sleddriver said. Also let the machine and polish do the work. That's why you have them. You shouldn't have to put much muscle or elbow grease into it.
What's your point?
Its vey hard to impossible to burn through the fi ish with a dual action "random orbit" polisher like the portrtcable or HF equivilent. A rotory is a different story but you really need an aggressive pad and polish and be pretty lax on watching the edges to burn it.
Posting some pictures of what you are trying to remove would help.
Posting some pictures of what you are trying to remove would help.
Originally Posted By: carguy996
Burning through the Clear is what im concerned about. What speed should I run the polisher at?
Very hard to burn paint or clear with a DA polisher, if not impossible. Don't put any pressure on it besides its own weight. Make a sharpie line on the backing plate so you can make sure you're not putting too much pressure on it and stopping it- sounds like a no brainer, but it's easy to put too much pressure on it.
Speed wise, on my PC7424XP, I'd probably top out around 5 (goes to 6) for the compound and polish, no reason to not go 6 though. For your LSP, it should tell you, but around 3-4 is usually good.
Burning through the Clear is what im concerned about. What speed should I run the polisher at?
Very hard to burn paint or clear with a DA polisher, if not impossible. Don't put any pressure on it besides its own weight. Make a sharpie line on the backing plate so you can make sure you're not putting too much pressure on it and stopping it- sounds like a no brainer, but it's easy to put too much pressure on it.
Speed wise, on my PC7424XP, I'd probably top out around 5 (goes to 6) for the compound and polish, no reason to not go 6 though. For your LSP, it should tell you, but around 3-4 is usually good.
I'm just the opposite. I start on 2 to spread the polish or compound on the section I'm buffing then crank it to 6. I press down until the head stops spinning then back off a little to allow it to spin while vibrating. I move the polisher slow. about 1" /second across the paint in 2-3" squares, first left left to right then up and down with slightly less pressure. Make sure the compound is not drying before you go over it. You really want to keep it moving around.
Inspect you work at a low angle look for imperfections. Then turn the machine off while it is still on the paint or you'll splatter compound everwhere.
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
Inspect you work at a low angle look for imperfections. Then turn the machine off while it is still on the paint or you'll splatter compound everwhere.
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
All the swirls and scratches will come back. It's just a matter of time with a daily driver. Then what do you do? Repeat the process over and over until the primer starts to show through esp on the top services. Now you need a paint job. Car looks terrible when the primer starts to show through. I know a few people where this has happened and they would polish the car often or have a detailer correct it. Versus leaving it alone, correction-wise and no need for an expensive paint job.
Just focus on keeping it clean and protected. Wash, clay, wax. Trav on here does body work and will polish panels to make them look great. But after that he leaves them alone. FYI.
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
All the swirls and scratches will come back. It's just a matter of time with a daily driver. Then what do you do? Repeat the process over and over until the primer starts to show through esp on the top services. Now you need a paint job. Car looks terrible when the primer starts to show through. I know a few people where this has happened and they would polish the car often or have a detailer correct it. Versus leaving it alone, correction-wise and no need for an expensive paint job.
Just focus on keeping it clean and protected. Wash, clay, wax. Trav on here does body work and will polish panels to make them look great. But after that he leaves them alone. FYI.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
All the swirls and scratches will come back. It's just a matter of time with a daily driver. Then what do you do? Repeat the process over and over until the primer starts to show through esp on the top services. Now you need a paint job. Car looks terrible when the primer starts to show through. I know a few people where this has happened and they would polish the car often or have a detailer correct it. Versus leaving it alone, correction-wise and no need for an expensive paint job.
Just focus on keeping it clean and protected. Wash, clay, wax. Trav on here does body work and will polish panels to make them look great. But after that he leaves them alone. FYI.
x2. Get it cleaned up good this once and then protect it well. Start doing 2 bucket method washes, foam lance, avoid touch car washes, use waffle weave towels for drying etc.
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
wipe off with a clean MF towel and inspect. If there are large scratches or spots, I work those by hand then go over it with the DA to even it out and remove any scratches/swirls I may have produced.
All the swirls and scratches will come back. It's just a matter of time with a daily driver. Then what do you do? Repeat the process over and over until the primer starts to show through esp on the top services. Now you need a paint job. Car looks terrible when the primer starts to show through. I know a few people where this has happened and they would polish the car often or have a detailer correct it. Versus leaving it alone, correction-wise and no need for an expensive paint job.
Just focus on keeping it clean and protected. Wash, clay, wax. Trav on here does body work and will polish panels to make them look great. But after that he leaves them alone. FYI.
x2. Get it cleaned up good this once and then protect it well. Start doing 2 bucket method washes, foam lance, avoid touch car washes, use waffle weave towels for drying etc.
Pretty much this^^.
Just find a compound / polish / sealant(wax) that falls within your budget and get stuck into it. Best to try to stick within a brands product stack (but not necessary.) For example:
Autoglym:
Mothers
Meguiars
or even the humble Turtle
The choice is yours. Once you've done the hack work of getting it looking sharp. You can put the heavy compounds away and use simple all in one products or finishing/cleaner waxes which include very mild abrasives to remove minor surface swirls.
Regards
Jordan
Just find a compound / polish / sealant(wax) that falls within your budget and get stuck into it. Best to try to stick within a brands product stack (but not necessary.) For example:
Autoglym:
- Paint renovator
Super resin polish
Extra Gloss protection
Mothers
- Pure Polish
Micro Polishing Glaze
Carrnuba Wax or Sealant (their pure Carrnuba paste is excellent)
Meguiars
- M105 (ultimate compound in retail)
M205 (ultimate polish in retail)
Wax or sealant (NXT /Ultimate liquid / Gold class Carrnuba)
or even the humble Turtle
- Rubbing compound (paste)
Polishing compound (paste)
Super hard shell (liquid or paste) or Ice sealant (liquid)
The choice is yours. Once you've done the hack work of getting it looking sharp. You can put the heavy compounds away and use simple all in one products or finishing/cleaner waxes which include very mild abrasives to remove minor surface swirls.
Regards
Jordan
Originally Posted By: Rat407
Sounds like you need to wet sand with 5k grit and buff back out to get rid of the scratches. Possibly even go to 2k to 3k to 5k then buff.
Uh, do you want to destroy the paint, because that's how you destroy the paint. That era of GM's had questionable clearcoat as it was, any sanding would do it in. Would never do that to even a new car; the clears are way too thin.
Sounds like you need to wet sand with 5k grit and buff back out to get rid of the scratches. Possibly even go to 2k to 3k to 5k then buff.
Uh, do you want to destroy the paint, because that's how you destroy the paint. That era of GM's had questionable clearcoat as it was, any sanding would do it in. Would never do that to even a new car; the clears are way too thin.
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