Stant Superstat vs OEM

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I usually like OEM thermostats. My Explorer never runs at the right temperature. Never hot, but 1/4-1/2 zone. Moves around, and the dash gauge is accurate. ECT says low 170s to mid 180s, so it follows the scan tool. In essence I'm running a 180 stat. Many cooling parts were changed over the years, the green coolant is on a 3 year change interval. 4.0 OHV engines have weird cooling, there is no bypass. Running cooler is good and bad, less wear and tear on the engine but probably more fuel used.

It will never enter the thermometer icon, which is 190-200. Ford stat is supposed to be a 192. Seems the 4.0 had a few temperatures in the 190 range and it was consolidated to one part number.

I'm thinking of trying a superstat, 195F. Says it uses a design that keeps a constant temperature. The Ford stat has a bleed hole. Superstat has the v notch.

It its cheap, under $10 for the stat and gasket, but still it has to be drained and burped.

Any good feedback on Stant stats?
 
I've researched the heck out of all the brands and it seems like the best bet is the factory ones, or figure out who made the Motorcraft ones. Everything else you can find success stories and enough disaster stories to make you think.
 
Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper
I've researched the heck out of all the brands and it seems like the best bet is the factory ones, or figure out who made the Motorcraft ones. Everything else you can find success stories and enough disaster stories to make you think.

I believe it is made by Mahle. Made in Germany (not a suprise, so was the engine).
 
I had a 93 explorer who's coolant was similar to what you're having. Granted this was the OHV 4.0 versus SOHC but I switched it with a MC, no change, switched it out with a motorad fail safe and it made a difference. If I remember correctly the operating temp for those engines were 195 and the motorad was 198. Maybe it was the 3 degrees but never the less I would consider motorad. I also replaced one on an old equinox with the delco and it was made by motorad. Not sure who is making MCs lately.

Question, what is the ratio you have on the green coolant? More coolant usually results in lower temps. If the thermostat doesn't work you might want to try doing a 60/40 distilled/coolant
 
You said you changed many cooling parts over the years. Did you change the t-stat?
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
I had a 93 explorer who's coolant was similar to what you're having. Granted this was the OHV 4.0 versus SOHC but I switched it with a MC, no change, switched it out with a motorad fail safe and it made a difference. If I remember correctly the operating temp for those engines were 195 and the motorad was 198. Maybe it was the 3 degrees but never the less I would consider motorad. I also replaced one on an old equinox with the delco and it was made by motorad. Not sure who is making MCs lately.

Question, what is the ratio you have on the green coolant? More coolant usually results in lower temps. If the thermostat doesn't work you might want to try doing a 60/40 distilled/coolant


Around 50/50, but I can check with a tester. The issue is more with needle movement.
 
Originally Posted By: mclasser
You said you changed many cooling parts over the years. Did you change the t-stat?

Yes, twice, once on a warranty for a waterpump and another I did myself. Both Ford parts. But I kinda accepted that it should move around, according to a Ford Service dept I asked. They told me some cars will move open loop temperature into the center. That could be 165.
 
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I used a Stant superstat in my Golf for the past 6 years. It solved my OEM thermostat being lazy (staying open) problem but eventually itself got lazy and wouldn't open enough. Replaced it with an OE Mahle when I replaced the radiator this spring. A body shop refilled the cooling system with Dex-Cool (without my permission) and the radiator started spouting leaks a year later.

For $10, it's worth a shot. Worked ok for me for as long as the OEM thermostat did.

FWIW I monitor the actual coolant temperature with a ScanGauge II. VW programs the idiot gauge in the dash to read straight up 90ºC between 75ºC & 115ºC
 
I looked up that Behr/Mahle Brand and tons of BMW owners have similar issues with running cold. Guess that answers it. The markings on the Ford Stat are definitely that brand. Maybe it is better to fail on the cold side. Probably going to leave it alone.

I went through three behr / mahl thermostats. The last one lasted less than 5k miles before I started getting a car that would sound like yours is acting. I'm not alone, there are numerous threads of people like me that needed to change them out at oil change intervals. I drive mine through winter/dd and if I was coming down the mountains in the cold it would drop down to the left dramatically.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
I usually like OEM thermostats.

I'm thinking of trying a superstat, 195F. Says it uses a design that keeps a constant temperature. The Ford stat has a bleed hole. Superstat has the v notch.



A design that keeps a constant temperature? Aren't they all designed that way?

I stick with Motorcraft since too many others failed prematurely.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
I had some problems before, this one works for me, it stays around 190ish
#45369 stant
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stan...83-P&c3apid


Yup, that is what I have in my order cart, but the debate is using an aftermarket stat. Does you temp needle stay put?


mine stays the same winter, summer, with ac on or off but I don't have an automatic which could alter the temp...
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
I had some problems before, this one works for me, it stays around 190ish
#45369 stant
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stan...83-P&c3apid


Yup, that is what I have in my order cart, but the debate is using an aftermarket stat. Does you temp needle stay put?


I don't understand the importance you give to a steady temp needle.

Why does it matter as long as the engine temp stays within the range of design operating temp?
 
Normally I'm 100% oem for t-stats. But after reading some of the posts in this thread including yours I think it might be a good idea to try a different one and see how you like it. Then report back on here with your findings. Thank you.
 
The trick is, on the Superstats from AAP, they have a lifetime warranty-save your receipt, take it back if it acts up. I've done THREE AC Delco OPS switches on the GMC 6.2 in my sig (known failure point, switch runs the fuel lift pump)!
 
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Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
I had some problems before, this one works for me, it stays around 190ish
#45369 stant
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stan...83-P&c3apid


Yup, that is what I have in my order cart, but the debate is using an aftermarket stat. Does you temp needle stay put?


I don't understand the importance you give to a steady temp needle.

Why does it matter as long as the engine temp stays within the range of design operating temp?


If it varied 190-200 I wouldn't mind.
According to Ford Typical Diagnostic Reference Values, if 160>ECT I'm definitely above 160 though.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: rollinpete
I had some problems before, this one works for me, it stays around 190ish
#45369 stant
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/stan...83-P&c3apid


Yup, that is what I have in my order cart, but the debate is using an aftermarket stat. Does you temp needle stay put?


I don't understand the importance you give to a steady temp needle.

Why does it matter as long as the engine temp stays within the range of design operating temp?


If it varied 190-200 I wouldn't mind.
According to Ford Typical Diagnostic Reference Values, if 160>ECT I'm definitely above 160 though.


Thank you forr the follow-up.

I understand better now.

I guess worse case scenario is you try a Stant and find out if it makes a difference.

Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Running cooler is good and bad, less wear and tear on the engine but probably more fuel used.


Actually, running cooler results in more engine wear.

I will only use OEM or Superstats. In your case, I'd sure try a Superstat and see what happens.
 
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