SO you didn't remove the cables and reinstall them, you didn't touch any fasteners, you just wiped away the grease?
Proper method to apply dielectric grease...
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gathermewool
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Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
I had some Dow Corning 111 silicone grease. It cold flows and goes deep into crevices. I coated my battery terminals with it and it eventually stopped the car from starting. We use to use a special battery grease at work but it was more like a low temp melting wax. Vaseline works good.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
Excellent argument, expand on that for me.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
Excellent argument, expand on that for me.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
Excellent argument, expand on that for me.
Really, only a couple of people were ignorant in the use of dielectric grease. Several people subsequently corrected these members. Afterward, you came in and said:
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
So, you were not responding to the trend of the thread...
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
Dielectric grease is designed specifically for electrical connections. It's purpose, to keep moisture and dirt out, It's a mechanical barrier. The reason it's used is if you were to use a conductive grease for electrical components, you would incur leakage current between electrical contacts, leading to electrolysis and corrosion. It keeps moisture out for the same reason. The stuff is designed specifically FOR electrical connections. Don't get hung up on the naming convention.
Uh huh...
Didn't read all of the responses, huh???
Excellent argument, expand on that for me.
Really, only a couple of people were ignorant in the use of dielectric grease. Several people subsequently corrected these members. Afterward, you came in and said:
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Since this thread is turning into false info about you shouldn't apply dielectric grease to electrical connectors, I'm going to nip this in the bud now.
So, you were not responding to the trend of the thread...
Understanding appropriate application =/= understanding why.
My own preference is to understand why X process is right. Not just to blindly accept "this is the way to do it." I gave info to the thread accordingly. My apologies, I'll make sure to be more punctual next time I see a thread such that I'm not nitpicked by another member for showing up 2 posts too late.
My own preference is to understand why X process is right. Not just to blindly accept "this is the way to do it." I gave info to the thread accordingly. My apologies, I'll make sure to be more punctual next time I see a thread such that I'm not nitpicked by another member for showing up 2 posts too late.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
SO you didn't remove the cables and reinstall them, you didn't touch any fasteners, you just wiped away the grease?
I did remove the cables and removed the grease then installed them just like they came off. This was a stack of 3 cables with the bottom cable connecting from one battery to the next, then the cable to the starter, then a charging cable for the trailer battery on top. The starter cable was sandwiched between the other cables with grease on both sides, it did not directly touch the battery or the nut to have the grease scraped away.
I am not saying you or anyone else will ever experience that problem, but under the right conditions it can happen.
SO you didn't remove the cables and reinstall them, you didn't touch any fasteners, you just wiped away the grease?
I did remove the cables and removed the grease then installed them just like they came off. This was a stack of 3 cables with the bottom cable connecting from one battery to the next, then the cable to the starter, then a charging cable for the trailer battery on top. The starter cable was sandwiched between the other cables with grease on both sides, it did not directly touch the battery or the nut to have the grease scraped away.
I am not saying you or anyone else will ever experience that problem, but under the right conditions it can happen.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I had some Dow Corning 111 silicone grease. It cold flows and goes deep into crevices. I coated my battery terminals with it and it eventually stopped the car from starting. We use to use a special battery grease at work but it was more like a low temp melting wax. Vaseline works good.
When I worked for the government we had some stuff in a can that was labeled dielectric grease, but I thought it was heat sink compound at first. It looked like ptfe pipe dope. That stuff would definitely stop a car from starting. We had an instructor that suggested using the oil off of the dip stick. Just a drop on each battery terminal when you are checking the oil level.
I had some Dow Corning 111 silicone grease. It cold flows and goes deep into crevices. I coated my battery terminals with it and it eventually stopped the car from starting. We use to use a special battery grease at work but it was more like a low temp melting wax. Vaseline works good.
When I worked for the government we had some stuff in a can that was labeled dielectric grease, but I thought it was heat sink compound at first. It looked like ptfe pipe dope. That stuff would definitely stop a car from starting. We had an instructor that suggested using the oil off of the dip stick. Just a drop on each battery terminal when you are checking the oil level.
Originally Posted By: AVB
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
SO you didn't remove the cables and reinstall them, you didn't touch any fasteners, you just wiped away the grease?
I did remove the cables and removed the grease then installed them just like they came off. This was a stack of 3 cables with the bottom cable connecting from one battery to the next, then the cable to the starter, then a charging cable for the trailer battery on top. The starter cable was sandwiched between the other cables with grease on both sides, it did not directly touch the battery or the nut to have the grease scraped away.
I am not saying you or anyone else will ever experience that problem, but under the right conditions it can happen.
That's quite strange. I maintain that the grease wasn't the issue but without seeing it in person I can only speculate.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
SO you didn't remove the cables and reinstall them, you didn't touch any fasteners, you just wiped away the grease?
I did remove the cables and removed the grease then installed them just like they came off. This was a stack of 3 cables with the bottom cable connecting from one battery to the next, then the cable to the starter, then a charging cable for the trailer battery on top. The starter cable was sandwiched between the other cables with grease on both sides, it did not directly touch the battery or the nut to have the grease scraped away.
I am not saying you or anyone else will ever experience that problem, but under the right conditions it can happen.
That's quite strange. I maintain that the grease wasn't the issue but without seeing it in person I can only speculate.
So the right way is? CRC adds a ridiculous amount. I have never seen that. The other video is the opposite and what I was told. I have no clue now.
Just add enough to cover your electrical connectors and take up any airspace within
A ways back, I found some Old dried up dielectric grease in an ECM connector, which I flushed out with some CRC QD cleaner, and kept having some connectivity issues. I busted out some higher magnification and found some terminals had what appeared to be scotch tape stuck to the surfaces and some precision tweesers was able to lift of flakes of what i presume is very old dielectric grease that was in the presence of arcing for a period of time.
Anyway i clean my electrical connectors With CAig Deoixit, I coat clean conductive surfaces with CAig DeOxit shield, then reseat connector, then I mush DIelectric grease into the connectors where the wires enter, and then cover it with plastivc and try and force it deeper.
My goal is to actively no get Dielectric grease inside the connector and possibly obstruct the contacts from touching each other with maximum surface area and pressure. I thnk it is possible that stuffing a connector full then reseating it could push spring loaded connectors from making good contact. perhaps not an issue on connectors passing few amps but one passing 5 or more will likelyheat up and perhaps cause that crusty but clear scotch tape that I was pulling out of an old ECm connector.
As far as a video showing using a huge amount of product, Well I remember toothepaste commercials from the 80's showing stacking the toothbrush head with about 3 to 5 times a much toothepaste as actually required to brush one's teeth.
Hard to imagine any product in this day and age not saying use a huge amnount, or the common mindset that if a little is good, then an overwhelmingly stupendous amount more than required, is not also stupendously better.
Anyway i clean my electrical connectors With CAig Deoixit, I coat clean conductive surfaces with CAig DeOxit shield, then reseat connector, then I mush DIelectric grease into the connectors where the wires enter, and then cover it with plastivc and try and force it deeper.
My goal is to actively no get Dielectric grease inside the connector and possibly obstruct the contacts from touching each other with maximum surface area and pressure. I thnk it is possible that stuffing a connector full then reseating it could push spring loaded connectors from making good contact. perhaps not an issue on connectors passing few amps but one passing 5 or more will likelyheat up and perhaps cause that crusty but clear scotch tape that I was pulling out of an old ECm connector.
As far as a video showing using a huge amount of product, Well I remember toothepaste commercials from the 80's showing stacking the toothbrush head with about 3 to 5 times a much toothepaste as actually required to brush one's teeth.
Hard to imagine any product in this day and age not saying use a huge amnount, or the common mindset that if a little is good, then an overwhelmingly stupendous amount more than required, is not also stupendously better.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Understanding appropriate application =/= understanding why.
My own preference is to understand why X process is right. Not just to blindly accept "this is the way to do it." I gave info to the thread accordingly. My apologies, I'll make sure to be more punctual next time I see a thread such that I'm not nitpicked by another member for showing up 2 posts too late.
I apologize. Not the best day and I overreacted. Your post doesn't read as I initially read it. Note to self: don't post after long, tiresome days!
Understanding appropriate application =/= understanding why.
My own preference is to understand why X process is right. Not just to blindly accept "this is the way to do it." I gave info to the thread accordingly. My apologies, I'll make sure to be more punctual next time I see a thread such that I'm not nitpicked by another member for showing up 2 posts too late.
I apologize. Not the best day and I overreacted. Your post doesn't read as I initially read it. Note to self: don't post after long, tiresome days!
Not sure if it relates to 12V DC battery connections, but I have another data point. I worked on a construction job near the ocean where we were installing some large AC generators. I was adamant that some sort of anti-corrosion compound should be put on the generator terminal lugs before torquing them down. My boss, an electrical engineer, explained that the terminals should be installed clean and bright. Proper torque would seal out any moisture or oxygen. The goal was clean contact surfaces that were as close as possible to not having a joint at all. The generators have been running for 15 years now and I suspect he may have been correct. Again, lots of difference between a connection on a 5kV generator and a car battery connection.
Not all dielectric greases are created equal. I use Motorcraft XG-12 electrical grease (which is dielectric) on all electrical connections (except battery terminals). Never a problem.
It is my belief that Nye Lubricants is the authority on the subject, as they make lubricants and dielectric compounds for all industries. Look up NyoGel 760C on the Nye Lubricants website (I believe this is identical to the Motorcraft stuff I use) and read about it. They make several different dielectric compounds, as I said not all dielectric greases are created equal.
It is my belief that Nye Lubricants is the authority on the subject, as they make lubricants and dielectric compounds for all industries. Look up NyoGel 760C on the Nye Lubricants website (I believe this is identical to the Motorcraft stuff I use) and read about it. They make several different dielectric compounds, as I said not all dielectric greases are created equal.
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Well, I am still not sure of the answer. I think I will strive to get clean bright and firm metal to metal contact and then have the protective coating of grease to the outside surfces of the metal and insde of the contact pritective sleeve/boot. Doing what CRC video shows has led to intermittent function of senstive circuits. For sure 12 starter battery terminals should be installed clean and bright and them coated AFTER they are torqued tight; or, at least, that has always been my way.
prs
prs
For electrical connectors, bulb bases and spark plug boots that are in a mostly sealed environment, I prefer Corrosion-X; which is a di-electric lubricant. It is a powerful corrosion preventer and lubricant; clingy enough to stay in a connection but thin enough to let the excess creep out. Where I use di-electric grease is on the outside of the battery terminals, once I have the connections clean and tight.
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Squirt some in either side of the connector and push 'em together
+1 Exactly what I do. I usually don't put a ton in there. Just a quick squirt on both sides and mush them together.
Squirt some in either side of the connector and push 'em together
+1 Exactly what I do. I usually don't put a ton in there. Just a quick squirt on both sides and mush them together.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: prs
Well, I am still not sure of the answer. I think I will strive to get clean bright and firm metal to metal contact and then have the protective coating of grease to the outside surfces of the metal and insde of the contact pritective sleeve/boot. Doing what CRC video shows has led to intermittent function of senstive circuits. For sure 12 starter battery terminals should be installed clean and bright and them coated AFTER they are torqued tight; or, at least, that has always been my way.
prs
This too is my preference. However, I do coat battery terminals completely because I like to have a film of grease covering the metal to plastic joint which is where gas can diffuse out, and corrosion often starts. I never have those fouling issues with my batteries when I cost the terminals. That said, I do try to get it heavier at that mating point, and very light on the terminal itself. I like to them cost the top once torqued.
Well, I am still not sure of the answer. I think I will strive to get clean bright and firm metal to metal contact and then have the protective coating of grease to the outside surfces of the metal and insde of the contact pritective sleeve/boot. Doing what CRC video shows has led to intermittent function of senstive circuits. For sure 12 starter battery terminals should be installed clean and bright and them coated AFTER they are torqued tight; or, at least, that has always been my way.
prs
This too is my preference. However, I do coat battery terminals completely because I like to have a film of grease covering the metal to plastic joint which is where gas can diffuse out, and corrosion often starts. I never have those fouling issues with my batteries when I cost the terminals. That said, I do try to get it heavier at that mating point, and very light on the terminal itself. I like to them cost the top once torqued.
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