Inverter generators: Honda EU2000i vs Yam EF2000is

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I have used both and they are both excellent units. I have the EF2000 and it is pretty awesome.
no plastic internal parts better fuel economy, sleeved cylinder etc etc the list goes on.
The Honda has a better service network and is a bigger engine.

Me no likey plastic cam, oil slinger etc.

Yamaha went to school on Honda and bench marked every aspect.
It is cheaper comes w/ charging cable and has a fuel gauge too.

When you really look at all the specs the Yammy wins hands down and the Honda is still freaking awesome.
 
This is my fourth year running the Yamaha EF2000is. Initially I was disappointed with the generator's excessive oil use. What I learned was that it took around 900 hours of low demand use to break the engine in.

When I bought it new, I thought that I had run the usual light load, heavy load break in procedure. Did it several times actually with no obvious change in oil consumption. I pretty much accepted the disappointment that the engine likes to use oil.

I kept and still do keep records for hours used, exact fuel and oil consumption. At around 900 hours I noticed a substantial drop in oil consumption and it has continued that trend now going into 1450 hours of use. Fuel consumption is a phenomenal 3.7 - 4.0 hours of mostly light load per liter of fuel.

As much as I appreciate Honda products, there's no way I'd trade the EF2000is for an EU2000. Not a chance. Despite Honda's reputation for durability, plastic engine parts do not sit well with me.

To give you some idea of this generator's reliability, I'm providing the following link. This guy got something like 18000, eighteen THOUSAND hours on one and it was still running when retired! Here's the link:

http://ghost32writer.com/?p=6127

The only cloud at the end of the silver lining is the China factor. Having experience with a Chinese built Hyundai 2000 watt inverter generator that pegged out at 175 hours, I have no confidence whatsoever with Yamaha's continued reliability with units built in China. I will never buy a Chinese built Yamaha generator, nor any other brand for that matter until Chinese manufactured products are on par with Japanese built stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
This is my fourth year running the Yamaha EF2000is. Initially I was disappointed with the generator's excessive oil use. What I learned was that it took around 900 hours of low demand use to break the engine in.

When I bought it new, I thought that I had run the usual light load, heavy load break in procedure. Did it several times actually with no obvious change in oil consumption. I pretty much accepted the disappointment that the engine likes to use oil.

I kept and still do keep records for hours used, exact fuel and oil consumption. At around 900 hours I noticed a substantial drop in oil consumption and it has continued that trend now going into 1450 hours of use. Fuel consumption is a phenomenal 3.7 - 4.0 hours of mostly light load per liter of fuel.


I had a very similar experience, although I don't have a record of the hours used when mine stopped consuming oil.

A typical weekend for my generator would be roughly 30 hours of continuous use. It would run great for about 24 hours, and then it would shut off due to low oil. I'd fill it slightly over full on Sunday and it would run great. The following weekend, it would run great all day Saturday, but sometime on Sunday it would shut off again due to low oil.

When it stopped consuming, it was not gradual. It just quit using completely.

Now, and I'm curious if you've done this, I decided to clean the exhaust system including the spark arrestor. As soon as I did that, the generator went back to consuming oil at the exact same rate that it had when it was new. It seemed like the back pressure was helping the rings seal.
 
Took the spark arrester out of it on day one. I run it in an enclosed shed and have a three ft. pipe venting the exhaust outside. That's been the arrangement since I bought it.

For the first 890 or so hours, oil would accumulate and drip from the end of the pipe. I calculated that the generator was using approx. 2 oz. every 30 hours. At around the 900 hour mark, oil stopped dripping from the exhaust. Now it consumes the same amount of oil over approx. 80 hours. I figure the generator can now run a full 100 hours without a low oil shutdown. However, I still check the oil level every 50 hours or so to ensure it's up. Compared to my 6.5kw diesel, this unit has paid for itself just in fuel and oil savings.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Took the spark arrester out of it on day one. I run it in an enclosed shed and have a three ft. pipe venting the exhaust outside. That's been the arrangement since I bought it.

For the first 890 or so hours, oil would accumulate and drip from the end of the pipe. I calculated that the generator was using approx. 2 oz. every 30 hours. At around the 900 hour mark, oil stopped dripping from the exhaust. Now it consumes the same amount of oil over approx. 80 hours. I figure the generator can now run a full 100 hours without a low oil shutdown. However, I still check the oil level every 50 hours or so to ensure it's up. Compared to my 6.5kw diesel, this unit has paid for itself just in fuel and oil savings.


A friend is a Generac tech and has seen two gens seize up because the engine low oil shutdown system failed. The largest was a 5'4 Ford engine hooked up to a 100KW gen. The customer was out of town on Vaca when their home lost power for 2 weeks. They live in a very rural area. Apparently the gen was never checked. This gen runs at 3600 RPM.
 
Originally Posted By: cronk
I know Op did not ask, but I am very happy with my Champion power Equipment 2000w inverter.
Conventional construction, cast iron sleeve, steel cam, overhead valves with pushrods.
Similar noise levels and performance fo its blue and red cousins, but less than half the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Eq...pment+generator


You also have nice review on youtube...they are still functioning even after 5years of abuse...
 
I had forgotten about this thread. I purchased the Honda EU2000i. Works quite well. It served extended hurricane duty last year in Jax, FL and minor hurricane duty this year in Jupiter, FL.

Seems to work perfectly.
 
The Honda does not have a valve for the fuel that is separate from the ON - OFF switch so when you turn it to OFF the carb is still full of gasoline.

The Yamaha has a fuel shut-off that is separate from the ON - OFF, so you can shut off the fuel and then let it run to empty out the carb.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
The Honda does not have a valve for the fuel that is separate from the ON - OFF switch so when you turn it to OFF the carb is still full of gasoline.

The Yamaha has a fuel shut-off that is separate from the ON - OFF, so you can shut off the fuel and then let it run to empty out the carb.


Yes, the Yamaha does have a fuel shut off indepdent of the on/off because it’s a gravity feed tank. The Honda has a fuel pump which allows connection of external tank. You can drain fuel from the carb in the Honda via a drain screw and connected tube that runs down the bottom. It’s pretty easy to do. Keep in mind that In either Honda or Yammi you willl never get all the gas out of the carb, some will remain at the bottom of the bowl. If you use treated gas you shouldn’t have a problem with either design.
 
There are modified fuel caps available for the Yamaha that allows for auxiliary fuel supply that's gravity feed. Gravity never fails. Fuel pumps occasionally do. Simplicity does have it's advantages.

http://i.ebayimg.com/12/!B+lyuJwBWk~$(KGrHqV,!k0Ez+4c2S6+BN!HCgJJqw~~_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F

My riding mower (Honda GX sohc engine) which has a fuel pump didn't have a fuel shutoff valve. I put one on it. Six months storage every year over the last twelve years, no problems with the carb in the spring after running it dry in the fall.


The fuel shut off is a convenient advantage. I forgot to run the carb dry the first year I had it and the float hung up after six months of winter storage. Generator wouldn't fire up in the spring. Had to tap the bowl to get it to drop. All subsequent years of use, I've turned the fuel off and run it dry with no problems in the spring.

The issue isn't so much the residue accumulation in the bowl resulting from fuel evaporation. It's the float getting stuck in the up position not permitting fuel flow into the bowl. It takes a lot of fuel to make significant residue to cause carb problems.

With gravity feed and fuel in the tank, one would think that evaporated fuel would be continuously replenished if the valve is left open? If so, not closing the valve shouldn't pose a problem if there's sufficient fuel to keep the float bowl full. Anything with a fuel pump would not have that advantage.

Cujet:

I'm surprised you got the Honda. It's a great machine alright but, I think the Yamaha has the edge in pretty much every respect other than possibly service? Which would be a rare necessity if even basic maintenance is done on the Yamaha. Nonetheless, we do have a Yamaha and Honda dealer in close proximity. Neither of which I'm particularly keen to deal with. Both are ridiculous gougers that I avoid at all costs.

I ordered my EF2000is from the U.S. on Amazon and saved over $500.00 compared to local vendors. Four years and over 1400 hours without any discernible issues now that the oil consumption is under control.

Either way, you can't go wrong with both machines. They're simply in a class of their own.

Enjoy your purchase and keep us apprised of any issue, which I suspect will be far and few between.
 
"I know Op did not ask, but I am very happy with my Champion power Equipment 2000w inverter."


I owned a Champion 3000/4000 conventional generator for a while. Bought it for back up purposes for the house but never needed it. I have no idea how long it would have lasted. One thing I do know is that it had one of nicest/cleanest running small engines I've ever seen. I was truly impressed with that generator's in initial quality.

On the other hand, I've worked on two Chinese built inverter generators. One was a Hyundai, the other a Boliy 3600SI.

The Hyundai engine ran great until the rotating parts of the generator disintegrated with only 175 hours on it. The Boliy which was owned by a friend was nothing but trouble. Some of it caused by the owner but much also caused by poor workmanship. Lots of issues with the carb if left sitting for any length of time, choke lever fell off then finally broke off. The engine leaked oil from the valve cover making quite a mess. The valve cover screws were barely finger tight. Tried to do a valve adjustment but the lock nuts were so tight, I was afraid I'd break the adjusting screw from too much force. Skipped the valve adjustment accordingly.

Both the Hyundai and Boliy had some of the worst wiring I've ever seen on the inverter/generator end. Looked like something you'd get if you gave a couple chimps a bag of wire, some connectors and a pair of side cutters. Truly messy and loosely cobbled together work.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
The Honda does not have a valve for the fuel that is separate from the ON - OFF switch so when you turn it to OFF the carb is still full of gasoline.

The Yamaha has a fuel shut-off that is separate from the ON - OFF, so you can shut off the fuel and then let it run to empty out the carb.


Yes, that is an issue. There is a screw at the bottom of the float bowl. But I think the proper way to fix this situation is to simply install a separate stop switch. It's easy, and allows the engine to run until the bowl is dry. As the "engine sw" is a fuel and ign shut off.

I know, it takes a hour to install a switch. But it's an option for those of us who own a Honda.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet


Yes, that is an issue. There is a screw at the bottom of the float bowl. But I think the proper way to fix this situation is to simply install a separate stop switch. It's easy, and allows the engine to run until the bowl is dry. As the "engine sw" is a fuel and ign shut off.

I know, it takes a hour to install a switch. But it's an option for those of us who own a Honda.

How would a stop switch (for the engine) stop the fuel. Don't you need a fuel cut off valve? I must be missing something
confused2.gif
 
"ow would a stop switch (for the engine) stop the fuel. Don't you need a fuel cut off valve? I must be missing something"

I'd put a small inline shut off valve between the fuel pump and the tank or between the fuel pump and the carb. Whichever is easiest.
 
I have two hondas now and id probably go with yamaha if I rebought today.

For a set you are running in parallel - the honda has the companion unit comes with a 30 amp connector and that makes it very easy to run RV AC's
The Honda has a fuel pump, you have to add that to a yamaha 3rd party if you want to plumb an aux tank.

Other than those two things - the yamaha is the pick.

Fuel gauge,
Separate fuel shutoff
iron liner
cam chain- (Ive had to replace one of my Hondas belts already)
Bigger main bearing.

UD
 
Originally Posted By: cronk
I know Op did not ask, but I am very happy with my Champion power Equipment 2000w inverter.
Conventional construction, cast iron sleeve, steel cam, overhead valves with pushrods.
Similar noise levels and performance fo its blue and red cousins, but less than half the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Eq...pment+generator



Yup the champion is half the price.

It has half to 1/3rd the valve lash inspection interval - 100 for the champion vs 200 hours for the honda and 300 for the yamaha .

It appears to have been built with much softer material in the top end.

Finding parts for the red and blue gensets is as easy as going to a motorcycle shop of which there are usually several in every city. Not sure where to get parts for a champion.



UD
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: Cujet


Yes, that is an issue. There is a screw at the bottom of the float bowl. But I think the proper way to fix this situation is to simply install a separate stop switch. It's easy, and allows the engine to run until the bowl is dry. As the "engine sw" is a fuel and ign shut off.

I know, it takes a hour to install a switch. But it's an option for those of us who own a Honda.

How would a stop switch (for the engine) stop the fuel. Don't you need a fuel cut off valve? I must be missing something
confused2.gif



I probably did not word it correctly. The Honda EU2000's "engine sw" is how the unit is normally shut down. It's a knob on the side panel. That knob is BOTH a fuel shutoff and an ignition shutoff.

By pulling the wires off of the "engine sw" and hooking those wires to a separate shut off switch (they are commonly available) allows one to shut off the "engine sw" and cut the fuel, without shutting down the engine.

OR simply shut down the engine right away with the newly installed stop switch.
 
UncleDave:

"cam chain- (Ive had to replace one of my Hondas belts already)"

The Yamaha has push rod valve actuation. I normally prefer conventional OHC technology. However, for an engine that will max out a 5000 rpm, push rods will suffice.

Have to admit however that despite Honda's unorthodox approach to building the EU2000's engine, it does appear to be a successful and durable design. Not sure that it would have the overall lifespan of the Yamaha?

How many hours did you get on your EU2000 before you replaced the cam belt? I've got over 1400 yours on my EF2000is without so much as a valve adjustment. All I've done is 15 oil changes and the thing is still running like new.

I read one account of a guy who ran his EF2000is for 18000 hours and did little other than replacing the pull start rope once, oil changes and cleaning the air filter. If that's factual, it's simply amazing.

Here's a link to an interesting review of the EF2000is: http://ghost32writer.com/?p=6127
 
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