How may of you have...
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I've had good luck buying 1-2 year old CPO cars and driving them for at least 10 years and 150k miles. My last such purchase was my 2 Series, which I was able to buy in January of 2016 for 75% of the original MSRP and with only 15,000 miles on it. There was not one new car at that price point that interested me in the slightest.
That said, it comes down to each individual's priorities and comfort level. What works for me may not suit someone else...
That said, it comes down to each individual's priorities and comfort level. What works for me may not suit someone else...
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Well, you did do your homework before you bought the car and you've kept costs in check through understanding that a 1K brake job with new rotors might not really be necessary as well as by doing your own oil changes.
You've also found an indy who is willing to work with you.
You've done everything right and have enjoyed a blissfully inexpensive ownership experience to date.
This is not the norm for most used Mercedes buyers, who will buy one of the known (unknown to them) troublesome models because its cheap, looks nice, has lots of toys and, of course, wears the star while remaining blissfully unaware of the wallet draining demons ready to unleash their destruction.
Used Mercedes and BMW cars are pretty cheap with good reason, but as your experience indicates, a buyer who has done his research may well score a very nice car for cheap and may continue to enjoy low costs of ownership for some years and miles.
You did get a bargain on this Benz and given the amount of research you've done, you are probably also aware that any Mercedes dealer can order any part for literally any car and their parts prices aren't all that awful, probably no worse than what Honda, Toyota or Subaru dealers get for dealer only parts.
When we owned Mercedes cars, I was very impressed with how reasonable parts prices were.
Yeah, I also picked up a generic code scanner that does MB specific codes so when the CEL goes off, I know what the code is and how to repair it by searching for the code in the forums. Lots of people still show up on the forums with a 2006 E-350 and moan and groan about the 5k repair for the balance shaft or $1200+ for the SBC electronic brakes, even the reman pump is still an $800 part. But they got rid of that in 2007+. Only emergency item I had to get at the dealer was a radiator hose. Somewhat reasonable at $60 for the hose at the dealer, was $40 mail order but it was already leaking so I couldn't mail order it. I did notice that not all dealers in the area are the same though, one wanted $80 for the same part. List was $60. I guess they mark up an extra 33% over list. For OEM parts, you can get them for 30% off mail order. And yeah, I bought the car for all the toys it has, only annoying thing is that people stare at it once in a while and initially I was wondering why are they starting/what's their problem type, but I got over it and just ignore it. That's the part I'm not really interested in. I just like all the technology they put in it and it has a lot of little nice touches to it. The forums kinda give you a clue, no one complains about the power windows/power locks, certain items these days are pretty dependable.
Well, you did do your homework before you bought the car and you've kept costs in check through understanding that a 1K brake job with new rotors might not really be necessary as well as by doing your own oil changes.
You've also found an indy who is willing to work with you.
You've done everything right and have enjoyed a blissfully inexpensive ownership experience to date.
This is not the norm for most used Mercedes buyers, who will buy one of the known (unknown to them) troublesome models because its cheap, looks nice, has lots of toys and, of course, wears the star while remaining blissfully unaware of the wallet draining demons ready to unleash their destruction.
Used Mercedes and BMW cars are pretty cheap with good reason, but as your experience indicates, a buyer who has done his research may well score a very nice car for cheap and may continue to enjoy low costs of ownership for some years and miles.
You did get a bargain on this Benz and given the amount of research you've done, you are probably also aware that any Mercedes dealer can order any part for literally any car and their parts prices aren't all that awful, probably no worse than what Honda, Toyota or Subaru dealers get for dealer only parts.
When we owned Mercedes cars, I was very impressed with how reasonable parts prices were.
Yeah, I also picked up a generic code scanner that does MB specific codes so when the CEL goes off, I know what the code is and how to repair it by searching for the code in the forums. Lots of people still show up on the forums with a 2006 E-350 and moan and groan about the 5k repair for the balance shaft or $1200+ for the SBC electronic brakes, even the reman pump is still an $800 part. But they got rid of that in 2007+. Only emergency item I had to get at the dealer was a radiator hose. Somewhat reasonable at $60 for the hose at the dealer, was $40 mail order but it was already leaking so I couldn't mail order it. I did notice that not all dealers in the area are the same though, one wanted $80 for the same part. List was $60. I guess they mark up an extra 33% over list. For OEM parts, you can get them for 30% off mail order. And yeah, I bought the car for all the toys it has, only annoying thing is that people stare at it once in a while and initially I was wondering why are they starting/what's their problem type, but I got over it and just ignore it. That's the part I'm not really interested in. I just like all the technology they put in it and it has a lot of little nice touches to it. The forums kinda give you a clue, no one complains about the power windows/power locks, certain items these days are pretty dependable.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I believe that you also got a steal on the i3 lease.
Lucky guy on that. I could easily use one of those as a commuter with the emergency backup IC engine.
I was VERY lucky- and it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. BMW Financial Services no longer allows a lessee to make multiple security deposits in order to reduce the money factor.
I believe that you also got a steal on the i3 lease.
Lucky guy on that. I could easily use one of those as a commuter with the emergency backup IC engine.
I was VERY lucky- and it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. BMW Financial Services no longer allows a lessee to make multiple security deposits in order to reduce the money factor.
Originally Posted By: MCompact
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I believe that you also got a steal on the i3 lease.
Lucky guy on that. I could easily use one of those as a commuter with the emergency backup IC engine.
I was VERY lucky- and it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. BMW Financial Services no longer allows a lessee to make multiple security deposits in order to reduce the money factor.
Time it switch brands. Mercedes still does it, up to 10 MSD. A few other automakers also still allow it. I looked at BMW and Audi also. Audi tended to have the worse reputation and insane repair procedures like having to take off the bumper and radiator to get at a timing belt. BMW somehow got the rep for having unreliable electrical problems.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I believe that you also got a steal on the i3 lease.
Lucky guy on that. I could easily use one of those as a commuter with the emergency backup IC engine.
I was VERY lucky- and it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. BMW Financial Services no longer allows a lessee to make multiple security deposits in order to reduce the money factor.
Time it switch brands. Mercedes still does it, up to 10 MSD. A few other automakers also still allow it. I looked at BMW and Audi also. Audi tended to have the worse reputation and insane repair procedures like having to take off the bumper and radiator to get at a timing belt. BMW somehow got the rep for having unreliable electrical problems.
I've had plenty of girlfriends, coworkers, friends and family in my car and none of them ever commented on my vehicle or bad mouthed my choice of vehicle. And if one of them asked me how much I paid my answer would be "enough." I gave up caring what other people thought of me a while ago. All that matters is that YOU are happy.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Please explain how buying a new car is financially stupid.
Do so using numbers for ten years and 150K of ownership and not by quoting some self-proclaimed personal finance guru.
If you don't understand the concept of depreciation you are an idiot and I'm not schooling you on it here.
I hardly call a call with 24k miles and 2 years old model with only $1k off a new one after discount of the exact same model a "depreciation".
You can call me idiot if you want.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Please explain how buying a new car is financially stupid.
Do so using numbers for ten years and 150K of ownership and not by quoting some self-proclaimed personal finance guru.
If you don't understand the concept of depreciation you are an idiot and I'm not schooling you on it here.
I hardly call a call with 24k miles and 2 years old model with only $1k off a new one after discount of the exact same model a "depreciation".
You can call me idiot if you want.
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Please explain how buying a new car is financially stupid.
Do so using numbers for ten years and 150K of ownership and not by quoting some self-proclaimed personal finance guru.
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
There's your numbers Einstein. I did it over miles based on 150,000 miles of ownership for both and paying cash for the used car and financing the new car.
Run it yourself genius: http://artofbeingcheap.com/calculator/
Please explain how buying a new car is financially stupid.
Do so using numbers for ten years and 150K of ownership and not by quoting some self-proclaimed personal finance guru.
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
There's your numbers Einstein. I did it over miles based on 150,000 miles of ownership for both and paying cash for the used car and financing the new car.
Run it yourself genius: http://artofbeingcheap.com/calculator/
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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If anyone thinks that buying cars new or buying something used and cheap is the difference between wealth and penury then they either don't have a very healthy family income or they don't know how to manage their money in general.
Also note that none of the new vehicles we've bought have been at all extravagant although we've gotten great utility out of all of them.
I agree with that. From what you listed it seems you definitely held onto your cars and got your money's worth. My family is the same way. They have bought a few cars new (mainly the Hondas, and my dad's current Jeep GC), the rest have been dealer demo cars (under 8k miles) or off lease cars. All were kept passed 10 years and 150k miles, all were bought with cash except the most recent two due to very low financing.
I think one problem is a lot of people want cars they really can't afford. They look at how much they can barely afford per month, and factor in how "cool and new" it is, and trade it in every 5 years, often rolling over the debt/payments they had on the old car into the new one. That is just really dumb financially, and has nothing to do with buying used vs. buying new.
If anyone thinks that buying cars new or buying something used and cheap is the difference between wealth and penury then they either don't have a very healthy family income or they don't know how to manage their money in general.
Also note that none of the new vehicles we've bought have been at all extravagant although we've gotten great utility out of all of them.
I agree with that. From what you listed it seems you definitely held onto your cars and got your money's worth. My family is the same way. They have bought a few cars new (mainly the Hondas, and my dad's current Jeep GC), the rest have been dealer demo cars (under 8k miles) or off lease cars. All were kept passed 10 years and 150k miles, all were bought with cash except the most recent two due to very low financing.
I think one problem is a lot of people want cars they really can't afford. They look at how much they can barely afford per month, and factor in how "cool and new" it is, and trade it in every 5 years, often rolling over the debt/payments they had on the old car into the new one. That is just really dumb financially, and has nothing to do with buying used vs. buying new.
Originally Posted By: GMFan
I've had plenty of girlfriends, coworkers, friends and family in my car and none of them ever commented on my vehicle or bad mouthed my choice of vehicle. And if one of them asked me how much I paid my answer would be "enough." I gave up caring what other people thought of me a while ago. All that matters is that YOU are happy.
This is a huge problem with many people, especially my generation (millennials). They are willing to take on a huge car note they can barely afford as long as they "look cool", when in reality they should be driving 7 year old Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas.
A local European auto shop told me about all the newer BMWs and Audis he sees where young kids come in with a blown turbo and can barely make the payments never mind fix the car. I see it on the BMW forums all the time. 19 year old college kids with minimum wage jobs complaining that their 335i is too expensive to fix. Don't even get me started on the diesel truck boy crowd.
I've had plenty of girlfriends, coworkers, friends and family in my car and none of them ever commented on my vehicle or bad mouthed my choice of vehicle. And if one of them asked me how much I paid my answer would be "enough." I gave up caring what other people thought of me a while ago. All that matters is that YOU are happy.
This is a huge problem with many people, especially my generation (millennials). They are willing to take on a huge car note they can barely afford as long as they "look cool", when in reality they should be driving 7 year old Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas.
A local European auto shop told me about all the newer BMWs and Audis he sees where young kids come in with a blown turbo and can barely make the payments never mind fix the car. I see it on the BMW forums all the time. 19 year old college kids with minimum wage jobs complaining that their 335i is too expensive to fix. Don't even get me started on the diesel truck boy crowd.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
I'm not sure what you are buying that has $43k new vs $14k used at 55k miles. I also don't know how the heck do you get 4.2% finance rate (my credit union charged me 1.5%), and how those car with trade in of $6k and $2k, or $600 / yr for insurance and $500 / yr for repair being the same for both of them.
Typically if a car drop from $43k to $14k in 55k miles, the repair for the next 155k will be way more than 500 / year, depreciation happens for a reason.
If you look at a Hertz retired Camry vs a new one, it may only be a couple thousand less than new one's market price for a 40k miles on it. That's a better comparison.
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
I'm not sure what you are buying that has $43k new vs $14k used at 55k miles. I also don't know how the heck do you get 4.2% finance rate (my credit union charged me 1.5%), and how those car with trade in of $6k and $2k, or $600 / yr for insurance and $500 / yr for repair being the same for both of them.
Typically if a car drop from $43k to $14k in 55k miles, the repair for the next 155k will be way more than 500 / year, depreciation happens for a reason.
If you look at a Hertz retired Camry vs a new one, it may only be a couple thousand less than new one's market price for a 40k miles on it. That's a better comparison.
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I'll give you a real world example, using real numbers, just to help you gain an understanding of how it really works:
1999 Honda Accord LX 5 spd, bought new for $16,800.00. Wrote a check for it since there were no deals on financing.
Used by family, mostly me, for 175K and thirteen years. In that time, the only notable expenses were a clutch and a timing belt service, both of which I had done. Two new sets of Michelins, a battery, a starter and a couple of sets of brakes. Starter and batteries changed out by me along with oil and MTF fluid changes.
Car was totaled by a son and our insurer gave us more than 4K for it.
So, if we assume fuel at $2.40 a gallon and insurance at $500 a year, although both figures are a little high I'll give you those numbers, we come to a cost per mile of around 18 cents.
These are real numbers based upon a car we really owned from cradle to grave.
Note also that a thirteen year old Honda is still worth about 25% of what it cost new.
The numbers would work about the same for our 2012 Accord, bought new for $19.2.
Shop smart and buying new really can be less costly than buying a turd nobody really wants only because it's cheap.
I've never claimed to be a genius, but I can do simple arithmetic.
You should try it sometime.
1999 Honda Accord LX 5 spd, bought new for $16,800.00. Wrote a check for it since there were no deals on financing.
Used by family, mostly me, for 175K and thirteen years. In that time, the only notable expenses were a clutch and a timing belt service, both of which I had done. Two new sets of Michelins, a battery, a starter and a couple of sets of brakes. Starter and batteries changed out by me along with oil and MTF fluid changes.
Car was totaled by a son and our insurer gave us more than 4K for it.
So, if we assume fuel at $2.40 a gallon and insurance at $500 a year, although both figures are a little high I'll give you those numbers, we come to a cost per mile of around 18 cents.
These are real numbers based upon a car we really owned from cradle to grave.
Note also that a thirteen year old Honda is still worth about 25% of what it cost new.
The numbers would work about the same for our 2012 Accord, bought new for $19.2.
Shop smart and buying new really can be less costly than buying a turd nobody really wants only because it's cheap.
I've never claimed to be a genius, but I can do simple arithmetic.
You should try it sometime.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I'll give you a real world example, using real numbers, just to help you gain an understanding of how it really works:
1999 Honda Accord LX 5 spd, bought new for $16,800.00. Wrote a check for it since there were no deals on financing.
Used by family, mostly me, for 175K and thirteen years. In that time, the only notable expenses were a clutch and a timing belt service, both of which I had done. Two new sets of Michelins, a battery, a starter and a couple of sets of brakes. Starter and batteries changed out by me along with oil and MTF fluid changes.
Car was totaled by a son and our insurer gave us more than 4K for it.
So, if we assume fuel at $2.40 a gallon and insurance at $500 a year, although both figures are a little high I'll give you those numbers, we come to a cost per mile of around 18 cents.
These are real numbers based upon a car we really owned from cradle to grave.
Note also that a thirteen year old Honda is still worth about 25% of what it cost new.
The numbers would work about the same for our 2012 Accord, bought new for $19.2.
Shop smart and buying new really can be less costly than buying a turd nobody really wants only because it's cheap.
I've never claimed to be a genius, but I can do simple arithmetic.
You should try it sometime.
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
I'll give you a real world example, using real numbers, just to help you gain an understanding of how it really works:
1999 Honda Accord LX 5 spd, bought new for $16,800.00. Wrote a check for it since there were no deals on financing.
Used by family, mostly me, for 175K and thirteen years. In that time, the only notable expenses were a clutch and a timing belt service, both of which I had done. Two new sets of Michelins, a battery, a starter and a couple of sets of brakes. Starter and batteries changed out by me along with oil and MTF fluid changes.
Car was totaled by a son and our insurer gave us more than 4K for it.
So, if we assume fuel at $2.40 a gallon and insurance at $500 a year, although both figures are a little high I'll give you those numbers, we come to a cost per mile of around 18 cents.
These are real numbers based upon a car we really owned from cradle to grave.
Note also that a thirteen year old Honda is still worth about 25% of what it cost new.
The numbers would work about the same for our 2012 Accord, bought new for $19.2.
Shop smart and buying new really can be less costly than buying a turd nobody really wants only because it's cheap.
I've never claimed to be a genius, but I can do simple arithmetic.
You should try it sometime.
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Well I guess the opposite would be what I got. A 2008 Mercedes E-350 with a lot of options. Probably stickered for over 65k and probably paid somewhere around that as it was probably a special order as I haven't really seen many others with as many options. Sticker for more base models were in the 55-60k range. Anyway, got it for under 20k with less than 50k on it. Put on about 40k on it in 3 years. Not too bad, I feel it's way better than driving a Honda. Maybe worth anywhere from 12-14k now. The sweet spot for them now would be the 2014's. Many are coming off lease and they're also $55-60k cars when they were new and are anywhere from 25k-35k depending on mileage and condition. Strangely enough if you find one with lots of options they don't go for much more although they could have added anywhere from 5-10k to the sticker. Real depreciation that's noticeable on all cars is typically in the 3-4 year range. It's pretty typical that one or two year old cars don't seem to have as much. Probably because the dealer have a big mark up on it and maybe just use it to sell new cars
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Well I guess the opposite would be what I got. A 2008 Mercedes E-350 with a lot of options. Probably stickered for over 65k and probably paid somewhere around that as it was probably a special order as I haven't really seen many others with as many options. Sticker for more base models were in the 55-60k range. Anyway, got it for under 20k with less than 50k on it. Put on about 40k on it in 3 years. Not too bad, I feel it's way better than driving a Honda. Maybe worth anywhere from 12-14k now. The sweet spot for them now would be the 2014's. Many are coming off lease and they're also $55-60k cars when they were new and are anywhere from 25k-35k depending on mileage and condition. Strangely enough if you find one with lots of options they don't go for much more although they could have added anywhere from 5-10k to the sticker. Real depreciation that's noticeable on all cars is typically in the 3-4 year range. It's pretty typical that one or two year old cars don't seem to have as much. Probably because the dealer have a big mark up on it and maybe just use it to sell new cars
Originally Posted By: Toros
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Words of wisdom?
ROFLMAO!
Keep that mind closed and you won't need to worry about learning anything or having your cherished assumptions challenged.
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Words of wisdom?
ROFLMAO!
Keep that mind closed and you won't need to worry about learning anything or having your cherished assumptions challenged.
Originally Posted By: Toros
If you don't understand the concept of depreciation you are an idiot and I'm not schooling you on it here.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Maybe you should keep buying your used luxury European cars and leave other people alone? A lot of people are fine with boring reliable appliances bought new to be kept for 15 years.
I would never advise people to buy a used top of the line refrigerator instead of a new base model, but hey, to each of their own.
If you don't understand the concept of depreciation you are an idiot and I'm not schooling you on it here.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Can't you come up with better than dopey anecdotal evidence?
Hondas kind of suck to many folks.
Maybe you should keep buying your used luxury European cars and leave other people alone? A lot of people are fine with boring reliable appliances bought new to be kept for 15 years.
I would never advise people to buy a used top of the line refrigerator instead of a new base model, but hey, to each of their own.
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Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Real depreciation that's noticeable on all cars is typically in the 3-4 year range. It's pretty typical that one or two year old cars don't seem to have as much. Probably because the dealer have a big mark up on it and maybe just use it to sell new cars
3-4 year lease return is the main reason.
Real depreciation that's noticeable on all cars is typically in the 3-4 year range. It's pretty typical that one or two year old cars don't seem to have as much. Probably because the dealer have a big mark up on it and maybe just use it to sell new cars
3-4 year lease return is the main reason.
Bingo!
A lot of folks lease these things since they have them only while the cars are under full factory warranty and they get free maintenance.
A lot of people won't own one of these out of factory warranty, so of course they're cheap.
IMHO, the last really durable Benzes were the W124 and the W201. These cars were typically light on toys but you got what you paid for in many years and miles of trouble-free use.
We have scratched the Mercedes itch and we had a W115, two 123 diesels and a W201. Great cars all that drove well for many years and miles and that were also really reliable and durable. No lowest bidder Chinese parts in these years.
Toro is driving a ghetto fabulous fancified Ford CUV that nobody wanted new so they're dirt cheap used.
Us?
We'll stick with proven 200K runners since we drive a lot of miles and don't care to deal with expensive random failures or poor fuel economy.
A lot of folks lease these things since they have them only while the cars are under full factory warranty and they get free maintenance.
A lot of people won't own one of these out of factory warranty, so of course they're cheap.
IMHO, the last really durable Benzes were the W124 and the W201. These cars were typically light on toys but you got what you paid for in many years and miles of trouble-free use.
We have scratched the Mercedes itch and we had a W115, two 123 diesels and a W201. Great cars all that drove well for many years and miles and that were also really reliable and durable. No lowest bidder Chinese parts in these years.
Toro is driving a ghetto fabulous fancified Ford CUV that nobody wanted new so they're dirt cheap used.
Us?
We'll stick with proven 200K runners since we drive a lot of miles and don't care to deal with expensive random failures or poor fuel economy.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
There's your numbers Einstein. I did it over miles based on 150,000 miles of ownership for both and paying cash for the used car and financing the new car.
Run it yourself genius: http://artofbeingcheap.com/calculator/
Looks like you're talking about a Lincoln MKX with those numbers which of course will be a much different picture versus buying a Toyota or Honda.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Was on the shelf at Walmart.... $5.88. I picked up a bottle.Just washed my dark grey metallic Lincoln MKX so I gave it a try. Goes on and comes off easy enough. No streaking that noticed. Don't know how long it lasts yet. Have been very satisfied with Armor All leather conditioner although after trying three different ones I bought a bottle of Lexol this time. I used Surf City Garage Voodoo. ..Pretty good but not worth $10.00 and a spray bottled for leather conditioner is way more handy.
You have a Lincoln and are complaining about a $10 product. Sheesh.
Cost per mile of a new car of equal/similar size features at $43,000 vs used at $14,000. Gas at $2.40/gal. Used car with 55k new car with 12 miles (test drives,etc..) Assume cost of tires is the same and both vehicles are owned for 155,000 miles. Resale or trade of the used car at $2000. Resale or trade of new car at $6000. The used car total cost to own is .23/mile .47 for the new car. That's financing it at 4.2% and including $600/year for insurance and $500/year repairs.
There's your numbers Einstein. I did it over miles based on 150,000 miles of ownership for both and paying cash for the used car and financing the new car.
Run it yourself genius: http://artofbeingcheap.com/calculator/
Looks like you're talking about a Lincoln MKX with those numbers which of course will be a much different picture versus buying a Toyota or Honda.
Originally Posted By: Toros
Was on the shelf at Walmart.... $5.88. I picked up a bottle.Just washed my dark grey metallic Lincoln MKX so I gave it a try. Goes on and comes off easy enough. No streaking that noticed. Don't know how long it lasts yet. Have been very satisfied with Armor All leather conditioner although after trying three different ones I bought a bottle of Lexol this time. I used Surf City Garage Voodoo. ..Pretty good but not worth $10.00 and a spray bottled for leather conditioner is way more handy.
You have a Lincoln and are complaining about a $10 product. Sheesh.
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