Hdeo vs ultra platinum to remove sludge ??

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Seems to me that both should work quite well.. but that might depend on the severity of the sludge. If it's bad enough I would be concerned about either cleaning "too well" and putting too much into circulation.

In my mind, this also depends on the car/engine you have in mind. If the car calls for lighter-weight oil, then I don't know if HDEO is necessarily your best choice, because those are all heavier-weight oils, which would mean that PUP would be the best choice.

All other things being equal, I'd probably just go with a decent SM/SN-rated HDEO and save money.
 
Dump a quart of MMO in while the engine is warm, and let it idle for 10-15 minutes in the driveway. Then change oil and filter to PUP and run about 5k. Use a good filter to keep the gunk from circulating.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Dump a quart of MMO in while the engine is warm, and let it idle for 10-15 minutes in the driveway. Then change oil and filter to PUP and run about 5k. Use a good filter to keep the gunk from circulating.


Heck if the oil is a bit low on the current fill, just top it off with up to 1qt of MMO and drive the rest of the OCI with it in. I ran an entire OCI in my 2003 Mercury Sable (3.0 Duratec) when I had it, with 1QT of MMO, and the rest 5w30 Valvoline MaxLife, and it did a great job of cleaning it up over a 6000 mile OCI.
 
Yeah, Sir, MMO has a very long (and checkered, if you believe some of the naysayers here) and proven history; my dad had a 79 Chevy van with the 350 that leaked a bit, but didn't really 'use' any oil. It got an oil change roughly once a year (really just a filter change due to leaks
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) and he would dump a quart in probably every six months while mixing with makeup oil. MMO in the gas too. One quart to a full tank, once per calendar quarter.

He sold it with somewhere north of 350k miles, and even though the van had rusted away around it, the engine still ran well and just had a very light blue haze on cold startup. Amazing how that thing lasted with no real TLC...
 
If you have actual sludge and not merely the idea that you do, short drains for a while are in order and will clean up the engine.
For short drains, should you use a cheap oil or an expensive one?
Easy question with an easy answer.
 
One question I have for the 'short OCI for the sludge win' crowd: it's universally acknowledged that fresh oils DO slightly increase wear rates because of the tribological magic that goes on at the metal-to-additive interface. Granted, the increase is in most cases small, but it is there. So other than frequent filter changes, why would you pick multiple OCIs over one longer cleaning period with something like MMO?
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
One question I have for the 'short OCI for the sludge win' crowd: it's universally acknowledged that fresh oils DO slightly increase wear rates because of the tribological magic that goes on at the metal-to-additive interface. Granted, the increase is in most cases small, but it is there. So other than frequent filter changes, why would you pick multiple OCIs over one longer cleaning period with something like MMO?

Actually the idea of new oils slightly increasing wear rates is not well supported and has been discussed here many times, here is one post (and a thread) describing the problems with that:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4439068/Re:_Should_I_leave_a_little_us#Post4439068

And also there is little proof that any additive including MMO will remove actual sludge, if present.
 
Originally Posted By: wantboost
Which will work better ?

Please post pictures of the actual sludge so we can see how bad it is, and what kind of sludge.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
One question I have for the 'short OCI for the sludge win' crowd: it's universally acknowledged that fresh oils DO slightly increase wear rates because of the tribological magic that goes on at the metal-to-additive interface. Granted, the increase is in most cases small, but it is there. So other than frequent filter changes, why would you pick multiple OCIs over one longer cleaning period with something like MMO?


How does the MMO affect the metal-to-additive interface?

Thanks
 
Inexpensive non-synthetic like SuperTech 10W-30 and a can of BG-109 for 3,000 miles. Keep doing that until you are where you want to be.

Then switch to high quality oil and extended drain intervals if you wish...
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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: wantboost
Which will work better ?

Please post pictures of the actual sludge so we can see how bad it is, and what kind of sludge.
how ?
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Inexpensive non-synthetic like SuperTech 10W-30 and a can of BG-109 for 3,000 miles. Keep doing that until you are where you want to be.

Then switch to high quality oil and extended drain intervals if you wish...
smile.gif

3000k ? Can says only run for 10 min I did that today
 
I've been running a full can of BG-109 for a full OCI for decades. Since before they changed the name (same number). Never had an issue. V-8's, Sixes, and high winding 4-bangers. Never had an issue. 1 pt BG-109 in 4 or 5 qts of oil is not that big a deal.

It has some light aromatic solvents that will flash off in a few hundred miles or so. But the main detergents will keep on working all along.

If your motor is truly sludged(?), and not just a light varnish that makes things look dark or black(?), you have issues to deal with. The sooner the better.

If you are concerned about loading the filter, change it every 1,000 miles and top up. You will clean that motor quicker that way
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