Oil for WRX autocross

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Originally Posted By: danielLD
I try to come on forums but I've had bad habits of staying on forums too, lol. If what you say is true, then it goes counter to what I've been able to prove with UOA. What others like Scott Kegarise and Terry Dyson, strangely have proven to be true as well.

With respect to HTHS, though, we cannot discount it. While I have no issue with a high VI oil and understand the benefits, look at the objective facts. Doug Hillary got laughed at years ago talking about HTHS. Look at where things are now, though. SAE J300 incorporates minimum HTHS values, and tighter ones than before. Just about every ACEA spec and builder approval out there specifies an HTHS minimum or an HTHS range. Just about every vehicle in the planet that you can think of with a fairly tight oil specification actually has their specification built upon HTHS, rather than SAE grade, even if SAE grade is specified. There are rather few exceptions.

Japanese and North American OEMs calling for a 5w-20 or 0w-20 aren't thinking of a Red Line 3.0 HTHS type 20. They're calling for an ordinary 5w-20 or 0w-20 as you'd find ILSAC certified. When you see an ordinary Japanese or North American vehicle specifying a 5w-30 with the Honda turbo spec or dexos1, you know they intend an HTHS of 3.0 or 3.1. You know very well what A3/B4 entails, what A5/B5 will get you, what CK-4 will get you, what FA-4 will get you. These are all calling for an HTHS range or a minimum.

I'm the first to admit advantages of high VI oils. However, I don't know of any of the specifications I listed that have a minimum VI incorporated, except indirectly insofar as you're not going to have a 0w-20 or a 5w-30 with a VI of 130.

The vehicles that simply specify an SAE grade with little thought to specification beyond that are exceedingly rare. My G37 does, calling simply for 5w-30 in SM or newer, with GF-4 or newer being only optional. Even some of the oil companies application guides agree that it can use anything from a basic 5w-30 SN/GF-5 to a dexos2/C3 or a CJ-4/SM, given that the severe service intervals are so short, concerns over a bargain basement conventional or a low SAPS oil are irrelevant.
 
Correct Garak,
while OEMs specify HTHS (it's a functional part of the grade, and some go further eg volvo who spec 2.75 for their 20 grade, or others with A3/B4, or C3 xW30s)...not one of them specifies a minimum viscosity index.
 
I'm not discounting HTHS, as mentioned, it's just no point in exceeding it as it does not offer more protection once you have what the engine needs.

There was an article not long ago about Toyota/Lexus looking to depart from just looking at HTHS and looking at a few other variables such as dynamic viscosity and MOFT.
 
dynamic viscosity is Cp, as opposed to kinematic viscosity in Cst...they are related purely through density.

MOFT is related to HTHS as it's the viscosity (kinematic) in the loaded part of the bearing. The kinematic viscosity is simply the dynamic viscosity in that location, divided by the lubricant density.

So to"depart" from HTHS and look at "dynamic viscosity" and MOFT is a bit [censored] ???

MOFT is related to bearing dimensions (radius, clearance, and bearing length)...
* more radius, more MOFT for all the other variables staying constant.
* less clearance, more MOFT for all other variables staying constant.
* more bearing length, more MOFT for all other variables being constant.

It's also related to RPM...more RPM more MOFT.

MOFT is related to the kinematic viscosity, more KV, more MOFT, however, it needs to be at the appropriate shear rate, as this property drops with shear rate in non-Newtonian oils...thus the "minimums" in SAE J300 that were introduced in the late '90s, when it was realised that oils with polymeric VII components weren't measuring up to their advertised "grade" in terms of wear and protection.

Again, the relationship between dynamic and kinematic is purely a multiplication of density.

So in the apparent toyota article, how exactly did they step away from viscosity (HTHS), and move into the realms of viscosity and MOFT (which is as I've pointed out related to viscosity and engine design) ?

Seems a bit circular, doesn't it ???
 
Originally Posted By: danielLD
I'm not discounting HTHS, as mentioned, it's just no point in exceeding it as it does not offer more protection once you have what the engine needs.


Like I said before...

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Of course OEMs spec an engine oil that's going to be functional at the end of the OCI, under every likely secanario, and of course, when you know your personal operating conditions, you can fine tune your own choice...nothing earth shattering there.


Have been bagged in the past for suggesting that more HTHS offers more "headroom" for unplanned eventualities...that's what the OEMs are doing with thicker lubes, and as per your previous statements.

If you fully understand your operating regime you can go to the bare minimum HTHS that "keeps them separated", without asperity contact...but develop a sticky thermostat, have a new track with a longer straight, plastic bag over the radiator, or a leaky injector, and all of a sudden that "excessive" HTHS which maybe sapped a couple of horsepower might save you a teardown and a set of bearings.
 
Originally Posted By: stevo585

Yes the bearing clearances thing is [censored]. One thing that is not, heard from my tuner, who is 1k cars deep tuning FA20s is that the VVT tends to have issues on 40wt in mild climates, summer is fine generally he recommends to stick with a 30wt and oil cooling if track driving.


Well, this caught my eye!
I wonder how much the VVT in my FA20DIT has in common with the NA FA20 in the BRZ...I know the latter has some cool Toyota tech (like the combined DI/PFI system) that my Subie does not.
I am running a 5W30 right now, but one that has a HTHS that is close to some XW40s (3.58, I believe M1 0W40 FS is 3.6). I guess the tuner did mention mild climates, so maybe the issues he is touching on are not related to HTHS? I will not be running this oil for winter and am not sure about buying more for next summer, as it is bit of a PITA to get at a decent price and due to the fact that I can only get liters (I hate having lots of little bottles around).
 
Originally Posted By: stevo585
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: KL31
And whoever said the 0W30 is better because the 0W40 is too thick for their tight clearances, is probably drunk or misinformed, or both.

Not to mention that there's not a whole lot of difference in viscosity between Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 at operating temp. and I see that the OP has already discovered that.

There's a LOT of misinformation out there about oil choice for Subaru's and some of it comes from builders. When builders first started working on the BRZ, a lot of "well respected builders" proclaimed anything thicker than 0W20 was too thick because the of the tight bearing clearances. Meanwhile, Subaru Japan allows 5W40 in all turbos, the H6, and even the BRZ



Yes the bearing clearances thing is [censored]. One thing that is not, heard from my tuner, who is 1k cars deep tuning FA20s is that the VVT tends to have issues on 40wt in mild climates, summer is fine generally he recommends to stick with a 30wt and oil cooling if track driving.

While your tuner has me beat in number of tuned FA20's 1,000 to 0, I would love to hear more details on why he (or anyone here!) thinks this. There are/were people that thought the EJ's AVCS wouldn't function properly with 40 grade oil. Meanwhile, the N. American owner's manuals allowed up to 50 grade oil up until around 2011.

And I'm not sure I buy the 40 wt having issues in mild climates statement either. If that's the case, someone should let Subaru of Japan know that they should not be recommending 5W40 in the WRX and BRZ.
https://www.subaru.jp/accessory/engine_oil/engine_oil/premiumoil02.html

Like I said, your tuner has me beat 1,000 > 0 in tuning FA's but I do not understand his logic.

Anybody else??

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You are right in my 0 FA20 opinion. I agreed with someone on something similar in another thread. A 20 grade on warm up is still way way thicker than an operating temp 40 grade. Oil temperature takes a lot longer to heat up than coolant does. So if there were vvt issues, you'd see them on any oil until the oil temp reaches a certain level.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: stevo585

Yes the bearing clearances thing is [censored]. One thing that is not, heard from my tuner, who is 1k cars deep tuning FA20s is that the VVT tends to have issues on 40wt in mild climates, summer is fine generally he recommends to stick with a 30wt and oil cooling if track driving.


Well, this caught my eye!
I wonder how much the VVT in my FA20DIT has in common with the NA FA20 in the BRZ...I know the latter has some cool Toyota tech (like the combined DI/PFI system) that my Subie does not.
I am running a 5W30 right now, but one that has a HTHS that is close to some XW40s (3.58, I believe M1 0W40 FS is 3.6). I guess the tuner did mention mild climates, so maybe the issues he is touching on are not related to HTHS? I will not be running this oil for winter and am not sure about buying more for next summer, as it is bit of a PITA to get at a decent price and due to the fact that I can only get liters (I hate having lots of little bottles around).


They are exactly the same VVT systems and my tuner did note with thick oils in cold climates the VVT did not function right even throws a CEL. The only diff between Fa20s is lack of PI on the FA20DIT and the compression is 10.5 vs 12.5 in the NA FA20, so diff pistons. It likes boost though
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While your tuner has me beat in number of tuned FA20's 1,000 to 0, I would love to hear more details on why he (or anyone here!) thinks this. There are/were people that thought the EJ's AVCS wouldn't function properly with 40 grade oil. Meanwhile, the N. American owner's manuals allowed up to 50 grade oil up until around 2011.

And I'm not sure I buy the 40 wt having issues in mild climates statement either. If that's the case, someone should let Subaru of Japan know that they should not be recommending 5W40 in the WRX and BRZ.
https://www.subaru.jp/accessory/engine_oil/engine_oil/premiumoil02.html

Like I said, your tuner has me beat 1,000 > 0 in tuning FA's but I do not understand his logic.

Anybody else??

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[/quote]

That is a good point I'll be getting a tune update in a week so I'll ask him. How common it is not sure. Or it might be only people in Canada or Sweden places that are very cold. One thing I do know is the "cams" phasing don't come on right away. The idle has to drop and the engine warm up a bit ~few minutes. It could be viscosity related not sure...

FWIW that Subaru 40wt oil is almost certainly only meant for road course racing where of course temps are very high and thus visc. low.
 
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Originally Posted By: stevo585
FWIW that Subaru 40wt oil is almost certainly only meant for road course racing where of course temps are very high and thus visc. low.

I'm pretty sure it's for street use. While it's only a so-so translation, using Chrome will show that it's intended for street use. There are also screen shots from the Japanese owner's manual over at ft86club.com. Subaru Japan also allows high HTHS Euro 0W30 as well.

Chrome translation from the Subaru Castrol SLX Professional 5W40:

Quote:
Turbo car
6 cylinder car
SUBARU BRZ

Usage type of a favorite car
Those who are traveling hard

Many opportunities to travel on mountain roads, congested roads
Those seeking a calming use feeling with a moist feeling
Those looking for a sense of security with a higher viscosity grade
Who care about oil consumption


The only Subaru Japan oil not allowed in the FA is the 10W50.
 
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