How often do you use anti seize or a torque wrench

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Torque wrench gets used on any plastic oil filter housing, drain bolts, plugs, and anything that should require torquing.

Living in the North, anti-seize is used on anything that is susceptible to corrosion. Use it on lawn equipment as well.

We also frequently use anti-seize in an industrial environment. Working on extendable conveyors that get rained on from leaky trailer and dock seals are a complete pain as the bolts rust badly. Most bolts and screws that are taken apart during a PM have been anti-seized by me to help us in the future.
 
My biggest use of a torque wrench is for engine components-specifically things like head nuts but also most other things that screw into or attach to the engine. I generally do NOT use one on spark plugs. Of course, I'd admonish anyone not following the factory torque specs and order on head studs as being foolish in the extreme. The same also applies to things like exhaust manifolds and the like. I've also found it to be absolutely critical for most gasket-sealed mating surfaces as too much torque can distort the gasket and often times even the part to the point where you will never get a seal.

Of course, I also use a torque wrench on lug nuts.

BTW, spark plugs and lug nuts get a LIGHT smear of anti-seize but that's it. I wire brush head studs, chase the threads, then lubricate them with motor oil. Theoretically at least that should give more accurate torque values and-more importantly-equal clamping force. At the end of the day, clamping force is what we're really after-the torque on the nut is just the best way to measure it.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Anti-seize on wheel rims to rotor surface and spark plugs. Torque wheel lugs and all assemblies that have a torque value that I reach. Ed
This^^^^^. I use tiny,tiny,amounts of as.
 
I have three top-line torque wrenches I purchased thirty some years ago when I worked in power generation and torque every fastener that has a torque value.Use anti-seize sparingly. On our GE steam turbines, we used Fel-pro N-1000 per GE specs on the large bolting for the high pressure/intermediate pressure rotor housing per.
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I use anti-seize on on most of the larger bolts, but I brush it on sparingly with an clean acid brush to work it into the threads. The guys that say it gets everywhere are the guys who don't know how to apply it.

I use a torque wrench when I'm dealing with gaskets.
 
Years ago the ex-wife had a Buick Skyhawk with a weird problem: even with lug nuts off,
the aluminum OEM wheels seized so bad you had to use a wood block and a small ledge hammer to get the wheels off!

Anti-seize didn’t work, sticking was between the iron rotor /drums and the inside seating
face of the aluminum wheel, so the fix was cut a round disk with holes for studs and the center diameter
out of .040” Nomax semi-rigid sheet.

Surprisingly, the wheel hub diameter fit was not the issue!

Thus the aluminum and iron never touched, wheel changes were a snap after that!

Other then that I’ll use anti-seize in semi-solid ‘crayon’ form on spark plugs, etc!
But not a fan of liquid anti-seize in the can with a brush.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
If i think i will ever need to disassemble it , it gets anti-seize. I use a torque wrench on lugs, head bolts, intake bolts. I don't bother with spark plugs or drain bolts.


This.

I also try to torque everything I disassemble according to the vehicles FSM, however that's not always feasible.

PS - knowing the difference between a torque value being in INCH pounds vs FOOT pounds is critical. Learned that the hard way. Hah!
 
Torque wrench all the time. I have six of them, five click type, one digital, in all of the common automotive drive sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). Looking to add a 3/4th drive one soon. I always go by the service manual when I do repairs so I have the torque specs available.

Anti-seize depends on what fastener it is. If it's a fastener that's on the underside of the car, on the exhaust system or the fastener was badly rusted when I took it off, I slop it on the threads and a light coat on the outside. Fastener gets replaced if it was really rusty as well. If it's neither of the above it's probably a fastener that is safe from the elements (like maybe a ground bolt that doesn't get hit with water and salt) so I either put a little bit of light oil on the threads or leave it dry.
 
Originally Posted By: Urshurak776
Originally Posted By: NYEngineer
I use both fairly regularly.

When I wrench on bicycles, it's mostly grease and an inch pound torque wrench. Gotta protect those fine threads and exotic materials.

Where I work, we have three huge Carrier chillers. Every year, we pull the heads and clean the tubes. When the guys put the heads back on, they coat the bolts with so much Nev R Sieze it covers everything in it and makes a huge mess. I've tried explaining to them that they shouldn't do that going into blind holes because of hydraulicing and false readings. Problem is, the guy that specified this originally had no clue and the younger guys just follow instructions. They probably use 75% more than is needed to get the job done properly.


I'm a Service Engineer with Carrier Commercial Service. We see this a lot. What Chillers? 19 series?


I believe they are 19 series. I am the in house generator and UPS guy so the chiller plant is not my main priority. I always end up helping on the head install though since I'm really the only one with mechanical experience on heavy equipment.
 
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
...Anti-seize didn’t work, sticking was between the iron rotor /drums and the inside seating face of the aluminum wheel, so the fix was cut a round disk with holes for studs and the center diameter out of .040” Nomax semi-rigid sheet.

This can be dangerous. Nomex may take a set resulting in loss of clamping force with the wheel stud assembly. This can result in fatigued wheel bolts that crack and end with a wheel-off. Our company warns users about using any kind of polymer shim between the clamped assembly.
 
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