Evans Waterless Coolant

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Feb 22, 2015
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Location
New York
I have done a few searches but didn't turn up anything on Evans Coolant.

I am not a coolant expert.

What I like about the coolant is:

> A boiling point of 375 degrees, will improve heat transfer away from wet cylinder sleeves and head bolt area more efficiently, coolant will boil in this area adjacent to the combustion chamber impeding the heat transfer causing this area to cool poorly,
> Because it doesn't boil, less pressure is built up in the cooling system, lessening the stress on seals, radiator end tanks and coolant tank,
> Because there is no water, the potential for galvanic corrosion is greatly minimized
> Because more heat is moved away, the aluminum block material at the head bolts is cooler
> While it is expensive at first, it is a lifetime coolant not needing to be flushed every 2 years for green and every 5 years for Dexcool
> It has a Ph of 8.5

What's not to like? I have always been a Dexcool fan but the benefits of this coolant are hard to overlook.

What concerns me is that my radiator will need to dissipate more heat and I feel that either the radiator needs enlarging or I need to upgrade my cooling fans to move more air, there are some amazing aftermarket cooling fans out there.

Does anyone have any experience with Evans Coolant?

I have spoken to a Tech from Evans in Pennsylvania at length and it sounds pretty amazing, they are running it in a Chevy Impala loaded up with sensors and I plan to visit their shop.
 
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When I search for that topic here on Bitog I get numerous hits, it has been discussed quite a bit. Here are a few examples:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4338324/Waterless_Anti-freeze#Post4338324

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4038277/Evans_waterless_coolant#Post4038277

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3699927/Waterless_coolant#Post3699927

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...ate#Post3589141

In general, heat transfer is compromised compared to a water mixture, as is freezing point. Boiling point is largely irrelevant to a properly functioning cooling system. The pressure is controlled by the radiator cap so as long as that is functioning it won't make a difference.
 
The factory coolant in my Mazda is a 120,000 mile 10 year. I see no reason to invest in a coolant that is 3-4X times more expensive. Most vehicles sold in the past 10? years have a 8-10 year coolant life. Ed
 
Does coolant boil in the area adjacent to the combustion chamber in a properly functioning and pressurized system?

I did not realize it did.

Do you have some type of high performance vehicle or tow very heavy?
 
Eddie, you must have FL22 coolant. That's what's in my Mazda3 with claimed first time change interval of 122,000 miles (weird number, true). I've been adding 4OZ RMI-25 to the pressurized recovery tank every 15,000 miles and I actually plan to never change the coolant. Should be an interesting experiment. I've seen claims on other forums of people using RMI-25 with water and no coolant. I'm not quite that adventurous.
 
The issue with Evans is that it will take on moisture from the atmosphere, eliminating the amazing boiling point.

It is more viscous than a coolant mix and will require a new design of water pump in many cases.

Larger radiator is a good idea, because when functioning properly, more heat does come out of the cooling system.

Used to ride with a guy who had a Ramcharger that ran pretty hot, to the point that the engine would begin knocking. After Evans, his engine temp was actually 15° above previous average, but the engine would never knock or lose performance. He eventually got a fat radiator and that finally settled out.

Am I buying any? No. None of my engines have any deficiency that calls for a better coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Does coolant boil in the area adjacent to the combustion chamber in a properly functioning and pressurized system?

I did not realize it did.

Do you have some type of high performance vehicle or tow very heavy?


Nucleate boiling in high heat flux areas exists, it's that type that you see in a saucepan as it comes to the boil. With the phase change, this is the mode of transferring MAXIMUM heat away from the metal surfaces.

Any product that tells you that in stopping this from occurring they are improving things is either flat out misrepresenting, or has no idea of how stuff works...and will be leading to higher metal temperatures (*)

(If heat flux is too high, Departure from nucleate boiling occurs, and a film of steam blankets the surfaces...that's bad, heat flux drops, and metal temperatures soar.)

(*) note that products like this (and water wetter) point to lower coolant temperatures, which indicate by their very nature less heat removed. A member here has set up dyno engines with thermocouples and measured higher metal temps as a result...yes, water wetter, but nothing cools better than water.
 
I talked to an Evans tech more than a decade ago. If the system has any water/antifreeze at all left in it you first have to flush the system with a special fluid that Evans sells. Also the Evans fluid will leak from the smallest bad seal, even small bad seals that normal antifreeze does not leak from.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: ArcticDriver
Does coolant boil in the area adjacent to the combustion chamber in a properly functioning and pressurized system?

I did not realize it did.

Do you have some type of high performance vehicle or tow very heavy?


Nucleate boiling in high heat flux areas exists, it's that type that you see in a saucepan as it comes to the boil. With the phase change, this is the mode of transferring MAXIMUM heat away from the metal surfaces.

Any product that tells you that in stopping this from occurring they are improving things is either flat out misrepresenting, or has no idea of how stuff works...and will be leading to higher metal temperatures (*)

(If heat flux is too high, Departure from nucleate boiling occurs, and a film of steam blankets the surfaces...that's bad, heat flux drops, and metal temperatures soar.)

(*) note that products like this (and water wetter) point to lower coolant temperatures, which indicate by their very nature less heat removed. A member here has set up dyno engines with thermocouples and measured higher metal temps as a result...yes, water wetter, but nothing cools better than water.


Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
It's roughly equivalent to using straight antifreeze.

Yes it is. And that makes it inferior to an antifreeze/water mixture in just about every aspect that is actually relevant to a normal engine and everyday operation.
 
Thank you, I searched a bunch of different ways and nothing came up, don't know why, I figured it had to be covered
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
When I search for that topic here on Bitog I get numerous hits, it has been discussed quite a bit. Here are a few examples:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4338324/Waterless_Anti-freeze#Post4338324

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4038277/Evans_waterless_coolant#Post4038277

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3699927/Waterless_coolant#Post3699927

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...ate#Post3589141

In general, heat transfer is compromised compared to a water mixture, as is freezing point. Boiling point is largely irrelevant to a properly functioning cooling system. The pressure is controlled by the radiator cap so as long as that is functioning it won't make a difference.


Thank you!, I don't know why my search didn't turn up anything, thx
 
Excellent points from kschachn and Shannow.
BodybyFisher, save your money and stick with the standard superior coolant solution.
 
Using Evans in standard motors does not make sense to me. It has certain advantages in racing applications. I use it in my Buell 1125R road race motorcycle. The bike does not have radiator fans as it relies on ram air while on the track. The problem I have is overheating when riding up or if there is a long distance from track exit to the pits. I have had many instances of boil over once getting to the pits or if there is a delay before the start of a race.

The bike was originally set ups using water with water wetter. While on the track the coolant temperature would be in the 209 deg F range. Often, when getting to the pits the coolant temperature would be approximately 225 deg F due to the slow pit speeds. Once stoping the bike, the coolant temperature would increase to around 245 deg F due to the residual heat in the motor. The pressure would build high enough to boil over.

Using the Evans coolant, my track coolant temperature increases over all about 5 deg. F but does not boil over in the pits. Additionally, the coolant is open into my catch bottle reducing the coolant system pressure to zero.

I can use Evans since it is a propylene glycol that is allowed at the tracks. For my application, it works very well. Another side benefit is its better lubricity over water. Easier on the water pump seals.
 
Thanks for your reply, it kind of validates some of the statements Evans makes

It also validates my feeling that because it boils at a lower temp, that running temps will be higher requiring a radiator that has more capacity or more powerful fans that drive more air at lower speeds like traffic, stop and go, etc.

I think the Cadillac Northstar runs too hot, in my humble opinion and I would like to cool it down, and plan to experiment with Evans, larger fans, auxiliary coolers for trans fluid and engine oil and a method to vent hot exhaust heat from the firewall area that gets trapped there. The rear head bolts tend to pull out of the block more often due to the heat surrounding the rear head.
 
I know this is an old thread but I have had a little experience with EWC.

This is a highly controversial product and on other sites it envokes everything from agreeance to serious flaming and abuse! As an interested observer of people Evans threads are somewhat entertaining. That's a side note and not what I'm posting here for.

I have a SWM superdual (Husquarvana TE630). 600cc single ADV bike. No coolant temp gauge so I replaced the radiator cap with a Mishimoto gauge rad cap (1.3 bar).

General riding has always been fine.

I went offroad on a hot day and climbed long hills. The temp gradually increased to over 130c. From there coolant bubbled out of the overflow tank and the reading on the radiator cap rocketed to over 150c. I had to stop. Idled the bike for a min (has cooling fan) then shut it down and ate a musli bar. After a bit I started riding again. I could generally baby the bike so it wouldn't boil over on steep climbes but it was right on the limit.

Enter EWC (the normal, high performance stuff. Comparing that and the Powersports data sheets, they both appear to be the same stuff with different color dye). I haven't ridden in exactly the same conditions yet. So far though the rad cap temp gauge shows the same temps as the previous coolant. The expectation is that in hot arduous conditions the temp will rise then come back down when the hill climb is over and the radiators have dissaped the excess heat. I'm expecting that it won't spike and rocket to over 150c as this liquid won't boil or turn to steam.

Who else has used it? What did you use it in and what did you find?
 
It's not worth it all of the people i know who have tried it have ended up throwing it away.
Poor heat transfer which causes overheating and it's flammable, no thanks!
Plus it's ridiculously expensive.
 
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
It's not worth it all of the people i know who have tried it have ended up throwing it away.
Poor heat transfer which causes overheating and it's flammable, no thanks!
Plus it's ridiculously expensive.


Yeah but what was YOUR overheating problem and what did YOU find?

I appreciate your advice FCD but we've all had plenty of hearsay.
 
First hand experience, last August in my friend's Escort RS Turbo, he had just recently switched to EWC, after driving it hard for a while ( several near 120mph runs ) , the temp gauge began rising, we stopped, opened the expansion tank cap with a rag and after about 2 seconds it started coming out like a volcano.
The cooling system had been purged by leaving the car running nearly an hour with the expansion tank cap off and heater on full.
We re-filled it with water and drove to his house, there was nothing wrong, both cooling fans working as they should, temp sensor ok...

Was it +40C outside? yes, did he drive it very hard? yes, as he always does, he's had the car since 2012 and it never did than on regular 50/50 EG coolant.

He's since then just had it on 50% distilled water and 50% VW G13 coolant with no problems.
 
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