MC FL 820S Issues?

[PumpPusher]

Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Originally Posted By: PumpPusher
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
Nothing but 820 here.

No sounds filter related atleast what i can tell.

You could change to another new 820 filter to see if noise goes away since u have a stash of these filters. Add .25 quarts to .5 quarts of oil as needed. The first start might be noisy but after that
If u still have noise change the oil to see if that makes it go away.
If u still have noise try heavier oil like 10w30 or blend of 5w20 and 10w30 if heavier oil is not your cup of tea.
Is the noise present on cold start after the car has been sitting around or even on hot start ?


I've been through several 820s and so far all have made noise, sooner in the OCI than the last. The noise is only present after the the car has been sitting 12+ hours.


Does not sound like the 820s is the issue. Sounds like your oil might be thinning out by 2k and draining to the pan overnite. It will drain out of the timing chain tensioner too if the gasket for that has a tiny leak.
I wud try 10w30 if warranty allows it and u r in summer time sorta. Some peoplen can smell the dipstick for fuel. I have not tried this particular test though !


This is where I am leaning. If the tensioners are leaking down, is this something that needs to be addressed? I need to add that I had a UOA good out to 7k and a filter cut open at 10k that didn't show any issues. There is a thread on it here.

 

[PumpPusher]

Now I'm thinking it may be fuel dilution. It seemed to start after I idled for 14hrs. I think I will bump it to a 5w-30. I will send another oil sample also.

 

[merconvvv]

If the tensioners were leaking bad u wud have noise all the time i think and not after 2k miles and when car has been sitting around i think u r safe.
Just stick with a little heavier oil for those texas summers. I am trying to avoid too thin and too thick oils and using outside temps also to guide me. I personally am blending 2 oils sometimes to reach my desired oil wt. For example blend 0w20/5w20 with 10w30 rather than use 5w30 which has more viscosity modifiers. Right now i got half quart of m1 0w20ep with 5.5 quarts of pp 10w30. Hope u get it straightened out !

 

[WellOiled]

I was thinking your HLA (lifters) may be leaking down over 12 hours. If varnish were building up in this area, then a clean up with a solvent based product may help. The FL820S has or had a good ADBV.

 

[PumpPusher]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I was thinking your HLA (lifters) may be leaking down over 12 hours. If varnish were building up in this area, then a clean up with a solvent based product may help. The FL820S has or had a good ADBV.


Good point. Deep down, I doubt the filter is the issue. What would be a good solvent?

 

[Nyogtha]

Gasoline has good properties as a solvent so if you suspect fuel dilution it's already present.

Substances that act as good solvents tend to have poor lubricating properties.

Strange how if it's any of these causes you associate its (albeit temporary) disappearance with a FCI.

 

[WellOiled]

How about ruling out the filters first? It would be cheaper and easy to do.

when startup rattle begins to occur, change the filter but not the oil. If startup rattle clears up, then you know it was the filter.

If startup rattle does not clear up, the problem may relate to the oil viscosity. In this case I would probably do short OCIs. Marvel Mystery Oil at no more than 25% of sump capacity during the last 500 miles might be a good plan. Remember adding MMO will decrease the additives package, decrease the the oil vicosity and MMO is not a good lube.

HLAs that are beginning to fail may also cause a compression test failure.

 

[PumpPusher]

Update- I changed my oil to a synthetic 5w20 and installed a Fram Ultra. No change in noise.