K&N Air Filter

[RandomNobody]

Hi,

Before everyone says 'they are good for the bin'...

I need either a Ryco A1297 Air filter or the equivalent in K&N which is a 33-2054 https://www.knfilters.com/cross_reference/ryco/a1297_air_filter.aspx

I spoke to a few people today and mechanics, told them everyone tells me they are the worst air filter for an every day car...

They told me if you oil them regular, and use them how they are supposed to be used, they are actually better at filtering the junk. If you just oil it and stick it in the car and drive, that isn't what you are supposed to do but let it dry first and then you have no issues + they are reusable and made different to how they were before. Now you buy a spray can, you spray it on and finished, very quick and easy and works and filters better than regular filters.

Spoke to another guy, he has been using them for years without any issues. He said he heard all the stories how they are bad etc, but after using them for years, he doesn't know why they get the flack when they actually filter properly/better than the paper elements. The whole reason they use oil is to trap the dust (kinda sticky if you will), clean and re-use all while enjoying better air flow at the same time.

So it sounds like the reason they are bad is more to do with the person who used it incorrectly and then blamed the filter as bad rather than the filter itself.

So I dunno?

Just trying to get a real world idea on these filters.

I am up for a filter already so I need to make a decision and go buy one.

 

[TheKracken]

I like my KN FIPK on my truck. I run a KN in most of my vehicles I have owned currently and in the past, I have noticed good results as well as nutral, never anything bad.

 

[Kool1]

Some people will say K&N is only a rock catcher and some will say it made my engine have more power. I believe, to some extent, that there is truth to both of those viewpoints. I have a K&N FIPK on my CRV and can say it stopped the light pinging I got at low rpms and helped me get better mileage along with more power according to my seat of the pants dyno.

 

[rubberchicken]

I only use one K&N and that is on my boat: the reason is that boats generally come with just a flame arrester, not a filter. The marine K&N is both a flame arrester and a filter, so essentially I added one where none existed. My understanding of the K&N is that they are not quite as good at filtering air as decent OEM air filters, and clean air is as important to engine longevity as good clean oil. If they have an exact fit for your application, and its not hugely expensive, go for it.

 

[maxdustington]

If it's just a drop in filter, why even bother? The difference will be miniscule.
If you're buying the CAI system, you could build it yourself and use any filter you desire.

Either way, I would definitely look at the AEM reusable filters over the K&N. K&Ns are for casual car enthusiasts, AEM is for hardcore BITOG automotive nerds.

 

[Silk]

For a Surf ? Petrol or diesel ?

They seem to hate them here, but I think it's improper fitting, too much cleaning and interfering. K&N say 50,000 miles between cleaning, that's about right in my book. I've never fitted one to an injected vehicle, I usually fit them because of modifications or unavailability.

On a recent K&N bashing thread I posted photos of my clean airbox and carbs and hardly dirty K&N after being untouched for 5 years...they ignored it and carried on bashing. You won't improve power or economy.

 

[ltslimjim]

I converted to aFe Pro Dry S instead of the K&N "oil required" filter media. I was blown away at the difference in media quality. I like aFe since they offer drop-in replacements for stock intakes on many engines. I'd be willing to try AEM dry flow or the aFe ProGuard7 if I went to an aftermarket intake with cone filter otherwise.

 

[tc1446]

I have a nice clean K&N used in my Ford Ranger for a brief time that anyone can have free for price of shipping. I think about all Rangers used the same filter but if you look up K&N for a 2000 ranger you'll know what it is. Its out in the shop so I don't know the number. I've made this same offer before with no takers.

FWIW, there was a test done long ago with K&N, paper, sponge; paper came out best. Makes sense to me that the porosity of the K&N, necessary to allow more air thru, will also let more dust thru. Each person must make the decision that suits them.

 

[Merkava_4]

You don't even have to keep them cleaned and oiled--the dirt falls right off of them.

I ran an AirRaid filter in my car for 5 years, it never got dirty; instead, the dirt would hit the filter and then fall off to the bottom of the filter box. I still have it--it looks like new.

Same principle as cooking pancakes on a Teflon frying pan.

 

[RandomNobody]

Thanks...

So its not one of those "hey my air filter is still clean" because it let everything into the engine is it? lol

I got a 2.5L turbo 1jz-GTE motor on a toyota crown. Just wanted a good filter as i want this car long term.

 

[09_GXP]

K&N will allow more dust through that a good paper filter. Of course there are really bad paper filters and really bad aftermarket filters. But if we ignore these a K&N is not ideal for filtration. SWRI ran a test (results link below) that clearly shows K&N below other aftermarket brands. It would have been nice if they tested a paper filter as well but that was outside of their scope. If you want an aftermarket drop-in filter AEM is the way to go.

SWRI Air Filter Test

 

[Johnny2Bad]

I don't think they are "bad" filters; the criticism seems more along the lines of shaming others for spending their own money. Me? It's your cash, spend it how you want.

If you have increased the stock HP by at least 20% or more, I think an aftermarket filter might be beneficial. If not, the OEM filter on modern vehicles almost certainly flows more air than your engine needs for maximum output.

Oiled filter media works perfectly well, if directions are followed. Note that a slightly dirty engine intake filter traps smaller particles than a perfectly clean one (the accumulated dirt acts as a finer filter media); many people change air filters before they should.

 

[Merkava_4]

And then there's that rumor that the oil flies off and contaminates the MAF sensor...

 

[wemay]

Anecdote:
I've used them on many vehicles where UOAs showed low silicon numbers.

 

[HemiHawk]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
And then there's that rumor that the oil flies off and contaminates the MAF sensor...


I've never had this issue with a NEW filter, but I once over oiled the filter after cleaning it and it surely did coat my MAF sensor.

 

[Rat407]

I enjoy reading all the info online about how running a cheap air filter caused engine failures. Seems to be a common thing with so many engines getting trashed from dirty air that is allowed to get by cheap air filters and AKA Rock catchers. I like the one article where they ran a cheap filter and the engine died and it only had 400k miles on it, they blamed it on the air filter letting in to much dirt. Who would have thought!

 

[demarpaint]

Look into UOA's where K&N air filters were used, compare silicon before and after K&N use, then decide for yourself. I wouldn't use one...

 

[circuitsmith]

OEM filter + restriction gauge FTW.
After 5 years and 38K miles restriction is still under 11" with mine.
When it is time to replace there's no tricky preparation, just drop a new one in.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: HemiHawk
I've never had this issue with a NEW filter, but I once over oiled the filter after cleaning it and it surely did coat my MAF sensor.


I haven't over oiled my filter because I've never cleaned it. It never gets dirty to speak of anyway; partly because the intake air is coming from the fenderwell and partly because the filter has that Teflon effect I mentioned above. I figure for the cost of the cleaning kit, I can apply that cost to a new filter.

 

[RandomNobody]

So k&n for filtration won't be good? (box type) and I will be better served with what?

Don't even know what is available down here besides kn and ryco and mechanics swear that engines will not prematurely wear out due to running a K&N, they will last forever and thus cheaper than buying paper filters and throwing them out each time.

I understand clean oil etc is important for longevity, but at what cost? If everything is restricting oil/air flow for max efficiency/cleanliness then you got the lack of oil/air issue which also reduces engine life prematurely.

So where is the balance where it is better to have more rubbish so to speak so long as good flow is present?