Begun a Transmission Filter Experiment on my 68RFE

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I've begun using a combination of a Fram XG7317 filter on the transmission cooler return line, and a Parker 3-micron hydraulic filter and head on the transmission cooler output.

The Parker filter is on the transmission output because it's filter mount has 4 1/8" NPT fittings thatI'm going to be using for transmission temperature readings, as well as placement of a pressure differential gauge. Don't want to change a filter if it doesn't need it yet. I don't have to worry about material falling out of the transmission cooler because this transmission has a factory spin-on filter inside of the transmission pan that is fed by the transmission cooler return line.

The factory spin-on filter inside the pan is rumored to be about 60-80 microns efficient. It's a total rock-catcher. Better rock-catcher than the pan filter, but still a rock catcher. I discovered through some research that this filter is a dimensional dead ringer for PH7317. Similar gasket diameter, similar height, similar case diameter, same threads.

There is actually no rocket science going on where the filter system is concerned. Transmission cooler line comes to the side of the transmission case, and goes straight through to the filter, and then to the return outlet into the pan. I really couldn't see what the heck the difference would be if I were to have an external filter head on the return with a 7317, or just having screwed in inside of the pan. 7317 has ample flow for a transmission, and the fluid is thinner and cleaner than the engine oil it's used to dealing with, especially with a 3-micron filter taking point on cleaning the oil before it reaches it.

I just screwed the factory filter, unscrewed the plastic filter boss from it, and installed it in the XG7317 (boss is with filter, not filter mount). I taped off the top of the XG7317, took 45 seconds to remove the external paint and grip coating with a wire wheel, cleaned it, removed the tape, and installed in place of the factory spin-on filter.

Parker recommends changing the hydraulic filter at 50 hours when being added to a system that has never had one, and then every 250 hours after that. I'll be doing a UOA at 50 hours to see just how clean it's keeping the transmission fluid.

While I was at it, I also flushed the whole transmission and added a Dorman transmission pan with a drain plug and placed 3 95 lb. donut magnets in the pan to take care of any ferrous material.

Shifting is quite a bit more civilized with the fresh fluid. Can't wait for the results.
 
Originally Posted By: Leo99
What car?
My WAG would be the Ram, since the diesel ones use that transmission. My only concern is, with 2 external filters & all the associated plumbing, being very careful not to get a hole in anything...
 
Yes, it's for my Ram.

I have 5 forklifts at my business. Relatively short, low pressure hoses don't spook me nearly as much as those things lol, and I rarely have a problem.

Only one filter is external. The 7317 is mounted inside of the transmission's pan where the factory spin-on filter used to be.

I used Gates Primo Flex hose for the external Parker filter. That hose is not just going to take a hole easily. I had to cut it with a hacksaw. My razor wouldn't eat it.
 
I have been adding coolers and spin on filters for 15 years - currently TruCool & Derale w/ XG16 (Fram Ultra) - have always stuck with Gates hoses and swap them after 5 years ... no failures ...
 
Pics? I love overkill (As you might know.)
Im trying to get the stuff together to put the Parker LFS transmission filter setup on my car, but that can keeps getting kicked down the road. Its 'only' an 8 micron. Im curious as to the size and flow capability of the 3 micron filter you are running.
 
Filter is about PH5 size and flows 20 GPM. Filter mount has a built-in bypass. Filter itself does not.

I'll take pics after I make a new mount. I was short on time, and the mount I made is solid, but embarrassing in appearance.
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Filter is about PH5 size and flows 20 GPM. Filter mount has a built-in bypass. Filter itself does not.


Sounds almost exactly like my set-up:
I'm using a common filter head for a log-splitter (built in bypass)
with a Baldwin BT839-10 (10 micron) filter on the return cooler line.
 
UOA comparison not possible since old transmission fluid was dumped. Not fair to compare old fluid to new fluid.

I will be doing a UOA to get a general idea how well it is working, though. Going to de-uglify the mount and get pics today or tomorrow.
 
I'm getting ready to add a deep pan to my 68RFE and would like better filtration too. Any reason I cant just use the 7317 filter in lieu of the stocker and call it good? Do you see any benefits?
 
The XG7317 is loads better than the 60-80 micron unit Mopar uses. Using the XG is the same thing as adding an external oil filter to the cooler line, except it's in the pan, and the XG is a lot better than even most of the oil filters used in those kits.

Long story short is, most definitely enough. The XG has pretty good efficiency even at 5 microns.

I would highly recommend you get a metal filter boss from one of the many suppliers that make one. I don't trust the plastic ones that come with those filters.

Also, don't forget to toss some good high temp magnets in the pan. 68RFE solenoids hate ferrous metal contamination.

And don't forget to tape off the open end of the filter and wire wheel off the filter's paint. I don't even know if it is an issue, but it's super easy to knock off all the paint with a wire wheel. Just takes a few seconds. Then wipe the can down with a towel and brake cleaner, so you're not leaving behind metal and paint dust.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
The XG7317 is loads better than the 60-80 micron unit Mopar uses. Using the XG is the same thing as adding an external oil filter to the cooler line, except it's in the pan, and the XG is a lot better than even most of the oil filters used in those kits.

Long story short is, most definitely enough. The XG has pretty good efficiency even at 5 microns.

I would highly recommend you get a metal filter boss from one of the many suppliers that make one. I don't trust the plastic ones that come with those filters.

Also, don't forget to toss some good high temp magnets in the pan. 68RFE solenoids hate ferrous metal contamination.

And don't forget to tape off the open end of the filter and wire wheel off the filter's paint. I don't even know if it is an issue, but it's super easy to knock off all the paint with a wire wheel. Just takes a few seconds. Then wipe the can down with a towel and brake cleaner, so you're not leaving behind metal and paint dust.


What is a metal filter boss?

Could you post a link to the magnets you used?

Did you ever take pictures of your remote filter setup?
 
On subaru the ATF spin on filter filters only 10 to 15 of the oil on each pass most is diverted through a screen. Those that substituted a regular engine filter wound up having transmission failures.
 
Subarus must be different. Mine having no issues after more than 20k miles.

Google "68rfe steel filter screw" for the metal filter boss. I'll post pics of my setup soon.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Subarus must be different. Mine having no issues after more than 20k miles.

Google "68rfe steel filter screw" for the metal filter boss. I'll post pics of my setup soon.

Thanks, I'd never heard of that part. And I know very little about the 68RFE. Driven a few with that trans for short distances, but I still just like my old NV5600. Super simple and never needs anything.

Looking forward to the pics. I've been gathering parts for around a month now to put together an inline filter for our 11' QX56 and it's 7AT. Getting pretty close.
 
Thanks double wasp, what a great find you have here. I took my rfe filter off and cut it open at 30k, stiff as a board, likely been on bypass for a while. Very smart knocking off the paint as well, proper mechanic you are sir.
 
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