Charging Compressor with AC Pro

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: DerbyDave
The question about why the compressor is being replaced hasn't been answered. Did the pump shred itself sending debris into the rest of the system? Even if the system is properly evacuated and correctly charged with refrigerant and oil and no leaks are found it won't matter if the junk isn't flushed out first. If you don't know what you are doing don't just try to wing it and hope it all turns out ok.

+1

While we're not talking about Denso or Ford compressors that tend to send all sorts of shrapnel in failure mode, it's a good idea to check to see if there's any metal glitter or sludge in the hoses/lines leading to the compressor - debris on the orifice tube is a sure sign.

If the compressor was leaking and if you want to tackle resealing the compressor, you can buy a compressor reseal kit - you also need to get a "bullet" tool for the shaft seal so the seal lip isn't sliced by the compressor shaft.

 

[brages]

If you have a local Autozone, you can borrow a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, and UV leak detector set with the loan-a-tool program.

Now here is a story:

I had an old Ford Ranger pickup and it was hit in the hood by a lost wheel from an uninsured driver going the other way on the freeway. This caused quite a bit of damage, including destroying the radiator and condenser. This happened about 5 years ago.

I replaced the condenser with a junkyard unit and recharged the system without drawing a vacuum.

The system works fine and has continued to work fine since then. (only light use, however).


I don't recommend doing this. I recently did some A/C work on another vehicle using the Autozone loan-a-tools and it has turned out great. It's an easy job that mostly involves waiting. One tip: put some UV dye in your system before you recharge. It will make the leaks a lot easier to find.

 

[SHOZ]

Amazon has vehicle specific kits with a compressor, clutch, oil ,o rings, orifice valve and desiccant for under $400 for most cars. Got one for the Accent earlier this summer and it all worked great.

You need to figure out how much oil the system needs, drain the compressor and refill with proper amount. Then flush the lines, evaporator and condenser; but only if the compressor did not grenade itself. If it did then you are better off replacing the evaporator and condenser with new.

I used the WalMart R134a. Cheapest around.

 

[9050lx]

Whats the story on how long we can buy 134A?

 

[DerbyDave]

134a is unrestricted until the EPA decides otherwise. You can still buy R12 if you have EPA certification.

 

[9050lx]

Thought I read somewhere that after December of 2017 you had to be certified.

 

[WyrTwister]

I have the 1st level EPA card for HVAC and the EPA card for automotive A/C .

So , I can purchase refrigerant .

Thanks ,

 

[SHOZ]

1/1/2018 large quantities of R134a will be restricted. Cans under 2lbs will still be available to the public per EPA.

Quote:
Refrigerant Sales Restriction

The sales restriction is established by EPA regulations (40 CFR Part 82, Subpart F) under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. Only EPA-certified technicians are allowed to purchase ozone-depleting substances (ODS) used as refrigerants. Technicians may be certified under either the Section 608 or Section 609 technician certification programs. Starting on January 1, 2018, the requirements discussed on this page will also apply to most substitute refrigerants, including HFCs.

The sales restriction covers refrigerants contained in cylinders, cans, or drums, except for the sale of small cans of substitute refrigerants (e.g., R-134a) for use in motor vehicle air conditioners. This sales restriction does not cover refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment or components containing refrigerants.
Requirements to Purchase Refrigerant

The following people can buy any type of ozone-depleting refrigerant (or, starting Jan. 1, 2018, substitute refrigerant) under this sales restriction:

Technicians who have earned the Section 608 Technician Certification.
Employers of a Section 608 certified technician (or the employer's authorized representative) if the employer provides the refrigerant wholesaler with written evidence that he or she employs at least one properly certified technician.

The following people can buy refrigerant found acceptable for use in a motor vehicle air conditioner (MVAC):

Technicians who have earned Section 609 Technician Certification.

Only Section 608 certified technicians can purchase refrigerants intended for use with stationary refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment. Section 609 certified technicians cannot purchase refrigerants that are intended for use with stationary equipment, regardless of container size.

EPA is not restricting the sale of “small cans” containing less than 2 pounds of substitute refrigerants (e.g., HFC-134a) for use in MVACs.


https://www.epa.gov/section608/refrigerant-sales-restriction

 

[wtd]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
1/1/2018 large quantities of R134a will be restricted. Cans under 2lbs will still be available to the public per EPA.

Quote:
Refrigerant Sales Restriction

The sales restriction is established by EPA regulations (40 CFR Part 82, Subpart F) under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. Only EPA-certified technicians are allowed to purchase ozone-depleting substances (ODS) used as refrigerants. Technicians may be certified under either the Section 608 or Section 609 technician certification programs. Starting on January 1, 2018, the requirements discussed on this page will also apply to most substitute refrigerants, including HFCs.

The sales restriction covers refrigerants contained in cylinders, cans, or drums, except for the sale of small cans of substitute refrigerants (e.g., R-134a) for use in motor vehicle air conditioners. This sales restriction does not cover refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment or components containing refrigerants.
Requirements to Purchase Refrigerant

The following people can buy any type of ozone-depleting refrigerant (or, starting Jan. 1, 2018, substitute refrigerant) under this sales restriction:

Technicians who have earned the Section 608 Technician Certification.
Employers of a Section 608 certified technician (or the employer's authorized representative) if the employer provides the refrigerant wholesaler with written evidence that he or she employs at least one properly certified technician.

The following people can buy refrigerant found acceptable for use in a motor vehicle air conditioner (MVAC):

Technicians who have earned Section 609 Technician Certification.

Only Section 608 certified technicians can purchase refrigerants intended for use with stationary refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment. Section 609 certified technicians cannot purchase refrigerants that are intended for use with stationary equipment, regardless of container size.

EPA is not restricting the sale of “small cans” containing less than 2 pounds of substitute refrigerants (e.g., HFC-134a) for use in MVACs.


https://www.epa.gov/section608/refrigerant-sales-restriction


I guess I should buy some more 30 lb tanks of R134 while it is still fairly cheap. I like charging using a tank and refrigerant scale. It's way more accurate than trying to use the small cans. I have a 609 certification that I got back in 2008 so I could buy R12 so hopefully I'm good there.

Wayne

 

[shrooms]

Wally's ST is cheaper and worked better for me than AC Pro.

 

[SHOZ]

The AC Pro has a reusable gauge set up I think. Only thing that would make it worth more than the cheapest stuff you can find.

I see California also has to use special cans that have an auto shut off nozzel.

 

[Delta]

Originally Posted By: DerbyDave
The question about why the compressor is being replaced hasn't been answered. Did the pump shred itself sending debris into the rest of the system? Even if the system is properly evacuated and correctly charged with refrigerant and oil and no leaks are found it won't matter if the junk isn't flushed out first. If you don't know what you are doing don't just try to wing it and hope it all turns out ok.


Going to go out on a limb here and say it was leaking at the compressor. Different gens, but my 99 S10 and friends 99 Sonoma BOTH leak at the compressor where the two halves meet.

Although both of ours aren't worth putting that much money in so we'll top it off when needed.

 

[DBMaster]

R134a is one of the next refrigerants on the chopping block, along with R410A. Both apparently have high global warming potential (GWP). Fluorocarbon refrigerants were ozone depleting. Without adding any of my own spin it would seem that there is an environmental price to pay to keep cool. I keep wondering when the price of R134a will spike. R410A prices spiked a couple of months ago and came back down, but they are still double the price from a year ago. In that particular case it's related to a somewhat short supply of one of the constituent gases. (I manage refrigerant supply for my employer.)

The current EPA will probably not move too quickly on the latest refrigerant phase-outs.

 

[sleddriver]

Where did the OP go?

I do hope he realized that an open system needs to be vac'd FIRST to boil all the water vapor out BEFORE adding 134a. It's not an optional step.

 

[bradtech]

Didn't realize it was a stop leak. Not going to use it. Compressor I got ended up being junk after inspection. Just going to wait & have new system installed professionally. Called around & went talked to a guy that gets lifetime warranty compressors made out of Wichita Falls, Texas. He verified with freon sniffer only place that is leaking is the compressor itself. Thanks for the recommendations don't care to mess up the condenser or other parts with stop leak additives or incorrect install.