If it's the original Carter carb replace it now with a Holley and be happy later.
Mopar Guys! '76 truck w 318 & A833 manual.. TIPS?
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Okay, here goes!
You can swap to a GM 4-pin HEI ignition module and eliminate the ballast resistor while also improving the spark. The smaller starter as used on most everything RWD from 1988 to the end of the LA engine days (except Jeeps) bolts in, draws less current and spins the engine faster. A leaky EGR valve will give a horrible idle. A later Denso alternator will massively improve charging at idle, but you'll want to bypass the ammeter so you don't melt down the dash and start a fire. Bypass the ammeter and get a volt meter even if you don't upgrade the alternator. The A833OD transmission is pretty good and they seem to appreciate Red Line MT-90. Take the wiring harness bulkhead connector off and clean both sides. You probably have the 10-bolt 8.25/8.375 rear end as the 9.25 was generally found in the heavier trucks or behind the NP435 or NP445 transmissions. It's a fine light duty axle. Check the wiper bushings. The Carter BBD isn't that bad. Keep it if it works well. There used to be a direct replacement Holley decades ago, but it's 2017. I think the timing chain thing is being hyped a little strongly. You can pop the distributor cap and rock the engine back and forth to get an idea of how much slack is in the chain.
You can swap to a GM 4-pin HEI ignition module and eliminate the ballast resistor while also improving the spark. The smaller starter as used on most everything RWD from 1988 to the end of the LA engine days (except Jeeps) bolts in, draws less current and spins the engine faster. A leaky EGR valve will give a horrible idle. A later Denso alternator will massively improve charging at idle, but you'll want to bypass the ammeter so you don't melt down the dash and start a fire. Bypass the ammeter and get a volt meter even if you don't upgrade the alternator. The A833OD transmission is pretty good and they seem to appreciate Red Line MT-90. Take the wiring harness bulkhead connector off and clean both sides. You probably have the 10-bolt 8.25/8.375 rear end as the 9.25 was generally found in the heavier trucks or behind the NP435 or NP445 transmissions. It's a fine light duty axle. Check the wiper bushings. The Carter BBD isn't that bad. Keep it if it works well. There used to be a direct replacement Holley decades ago, but it's 2017. I think the timing chain thing is being hyped a little strongly. You can pop the distributor cap and rock the engine back and forth to get an idea of how much slack is in the chain.
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Had a 1979 PowerWagon - 318/727 ... owned it 17 years and 97k - first 4 years it was DD - then 2nd vehicle - then 3rd vehicle used for hunting/off-road. Repairs: water pump, starter (yes they failed back then), fuel pump, e-module ...
No timing chain ...
Ditched the 2 bbl - swapped in Edelbrock manifold & carb (Carter AFB equivalent - good for high angles) fed by electric fuel pump - also put in some headers and dual exhaust (on one side)
No timing chain ...
Ditched the 2 bbl - swapped in Edelbrock manifold & carb (Carter AFB equivalent - good for high angles) fed by electric fuel pump - also put in some headers and dual exhaust (on one side)
I've only ever been on top of the big block stuff, but a lot applies.
I would ditch the whole ignition system for a GM HEI conversion distributor. Those Skip White ones for $80+/- are actually really good dizzies. Superior system, and you can get replacement parts everywhere.
Alternator? I prefer GM here too. External regulators make me mad, and replacement parts like the stupid clips for the pigtail are impossible in a pinch. The later Denso alternators are cute, but the GM ones are a lot tougher, and usually more cost effective. Definitely ditch the charge circuit and run a 4GA+ straight to the battery.
When you go in there to replace the timing assembly, do yourself a favor and ditch the emissions broomstick for a real cam shaft. Not even about getting a hot rod cam. Just a good truck cam will be a world away from the curves-of-Olive-Oyl broomstick in there now.
If it needs exhaust manifold gaskets (probably does), use the exhaust gaskets with the heat shield extensions that rise up past the valve cover rail. Will keep the valve cover gaskets from baking from exhaust manifold heat.
If you do the fuel pump, change that fuel pump pushrod too. Seen too many that had fuel delivery issues due to the pushrod getting shorter over the life of the engine.
I would ditch the whole ignition system for a GM HEI conversion distributor. Those Skip White ones for $80+/- are actually really good dizzies. Superior system, and you can get replacement parts everywhere.
Alternator? I prefer GM here too. External regulators make me mad, and replacement parts like the stupid clips for the pigtail are impossible in a pinch. The later Denso alternators are cute, but the GM ones are a lot tougher, and usually more cost effective. Definitely ditch the charge circuit and run a 4GA+ straight to the battery.
When you go in there to replace the timing assembly, do yourself a favor and ditch the emissions broomstick for a real cam shaft. Not even about getting a hot rod cam. Just a good truck cam will be a world away from the curves-of-Olive-Oyl broomstick in there now.
If it needs exhaust manifold gaskets (probably does), use the exhaust gaskets with the heat shield extensions that rise up past the valve cover rail. Will keep the valve cover gaskets from baking from exhaust manifold heat.
If you do the fuel pump, change that fuel pump pushrod too. Seen too many that had fuel delivery issues due to the pushrod getting shorter over the life of the engine.
Internal voltage regulators suck. Chrysler used an external regulator for a good reason.
Read this article about electrical stuff in general. This article is about the starters. Note: your 76 should have the upgraded (high-torque) starter.
Read this article about electrical stuff in general. This article is about the starters. Note: your 76 should have the upgraded (high-torque) starter.
What exactly is wrong with an internally regulated alternator?
The internally regulated alternators are better when it comes to "stab it in, and call it a day" (They are less susceptible to to issues caused by wires corroding). I personally prefer the old school external regulator. Yes you have more connections that can go bad, but they are more forgiving to being thrashed (off road stuff, heat, ect). Plus if the regulator tales a dive, you can bypass it (full field the alternator) in an emergency to limp home, or to a parts store.
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