Pot stirring what's the best oil for heavy duty...

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Depends on the motor. A Detroit 2-stroke wants one thing. A Cat 3406 wants something else
smile.gif


Seems you want good lubrication - HDEO will do that.

Seems you work in a dirty environment ... That's not an oil issue, it's a filtration issue. Of course the oil needs to hold microscopic stuff (including soot) in suspension to get it to the filter, but all HDEO's do that. Unless your haul dust and yard dust is especially sulfurous or something, any of the biggies will do.

Working in dirty environments means lots of filtration surface area and fairly efficient filters. Talk to a Donaldson rep to see if they have better stuff for your needs. The talk is free, the replacement filters are not ...

Make a quick spreadsheet with the oils recommended by each make and model of the engines you have, and see if there is some common ground ...
 
Sledge_Hammer;
You won't find a direct comparison of one engine oil vs another on million mile tear downs. It was already shown in the video I posted, that 5w40 synthetic was no better than 15w40.
 
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Originally Posted By: Sledge_Hammer
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: Sledge_Hammer
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Sledge_Hammer ....

First
welcome2.gif



Now, understand that you've opened up the hornets nest; I'm sure you'll agree. You seem to already have a preconceived notion here. I'd like to use that against you in a manner which may make you feel uncomfortable at first.

Let me ask you this:
What does "best" mean to you?
Best wearing?
Best cost?
Best ROI?
Best other what???
Until you define "best", in a much clearer and more detailed manner, you'll never get what you seek, because you really don't know what you're after.


I would recommend this approach ...
- Investigate several contenders using UOAs. Take the entire fleet, and run them all on one lube of your choice. Use the engines to first establish a baseline of understanding. Get your data together and do some macro analysis; looking at the set as a whole.
- Then, experiment with a different lube; do the UOAs again.
- Yet again, try some more, and UOA.
- It will take some time and money to find out what you want to know

I would state that the "best" oil is that which gives the longest OCIs AND sustains your desired wear rates. (You'll need to set condemnation limits for both totals and rates).
The reality is that not one person here can tell you what is "best", because it has yet to be discovered. Only by testing will a "best" oil come out of hiding.

There are two ways to manage your maintenance plan
1) to a predetermined time/distance (hours/miles); this approach can be "safe" when set conservatively, but offers a great opportunity for waste
2) to a condemnation limit (wear metal totals; wear metal rates, FP, Vis, etc); this approach takes time and understanding, but can pay for itself easily via savings AND healthy equipment, if managed properly

There are a LOT of great oils out there; many already mentioned. There is no "best" that we can recommend, despite all the marketing hype you'll see and opinions you'll read. There are times when synthetics can pay for the extra cost; many times they cannot. Syns are best utilized in very long OCIs and uber cold temps. Hot temps are not a major concern; if your cooling systems are up to par, then the engine oil should never get hot enough to warrant using a syn. Syns can help in the heat if your system is compromised; but that's a crutch you should not lean on for very long, or disaster will ensue. In some conditions, syns cannot stop things from failing; they can only deter the inevitable. However, if you're equipment is well maintained and your engines have no design flaws, then conventional lubes will do a fine job.

The "best" oil is the one that satisfies your criteria. The better you define it, the more you'll be happy with the result.

Start by reading this:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/



Thanks!

yup, hornets nest...... lol

you are prolly right on doing all that, but there are soooo many variables in what we run on each truck that while it might give me some guidelines, i don't think it would be all that accurate. Filtration is different between the all the trucks, some of double cab side filters, some double single under the hood filters. some trucks will be in the city most of one oil change, some will be out in the oil field etc....

so, that is why I came on here.... What I mean by best is one the reduces wear the most, thus giving me the longest engine life. Down time is expensive and so is rebuilding engines.


You have "soooo many variables" to track, but somehow think a one-size-fits-all oil exists?
You don't think UOAs will be accurate, but are waiting for the opinions here to synergistically congeal into one cohesive agreement?
You clearly want the unicorn to prance into your maintenance garage and excrete the magic lube.

No problem ...
I'll tell you what the "best" oil is ( ... but don't tell anyone else, because it's a secret we only tell our "best" friends .... )
It's the most expensive synthetic you can find, changed every 3k miles.


Good luck in your endeavors.


well that's being a bit of a smart alack......

no, don't want no unicorn, just want what peoples opines are on the best for what we are doing and/or what the tests show, as I cannot find any direct comparison tests.

I listed what oils we use also in hopes that someone that knows would say "the tests on Mobile 1 is really good, bad or indifferent, same for the rotella T6.



You wanted a sincere response; that's the first response I gave you.
You indicated that you were going to ignore the salient advice, and stay on the path of opinions.
You got a terse response from me. What did you expect? We all have opinions; mine is that you're not really interested in facts as much as opinions that are going to coincide with your own.

There are two ways to approach this:
a) analyze your situation fully with science
b) guess at it with a flurry of mythology and rhetoric


Would this be any different that if you asked:
- What's the "best" toothpaste? (there are different ones based on whitining, sensitive teeth, etc)
- What's the "best" stereo speaker? (outdoor, indoor, size constraints, room size, listening preferences, power available from amp, etc)
- What's the "best" rifle? (target, large game, small game, varmits, accuracy, recoil, type of bolt action, weight for carry, etc)
- What's the "best" athletic shoe? (type of sport, fit to foot, preference of materials, etc)

Sir (making a gender presumption here), you must realize that your have already indicated you have a slew of different application considerations; what makes you believe there is a one-size-fits-all "best" oil?????
21.gif
You are sorely mistaken if you believe this to be true. You define "best" as the least wear ... to know that, you're going to have to test the conditions. Again - READ THE ARTICLE I linked. You have to be able to describe/define/display what "normal" is, so that you can accurately identify any product that would cause a positive or negative shift in wear trend data. UNTIL YOU DO THIS, YOU ARE ON A WILD GUESSING CAMPAIGN. To know what is "best" wearing, you need hard data with long term results. The knowledge of "best" is NOT going to come cheaply or easily. But that is how YOU defined "best", so I gave you the answer on what to do.

Now, there are plenty of really good oils, all that will more that do the job of protecting your engines. The reality is that any decent CJ-4 or CK-4 is going to do everything your engines need; good wear control, appreciable cleaning abilities, aid in cooling, etc. That's what oils do.

The difference between "best" and "darn good enough" is the time/money it takes to make a selection. "Best" wearing will take a LOT of time and money to really understand how each engine performs, with the filters being used, and severity factors, etc. But "darn good enough" can be easily had by just choosing a well respected brand name oil and following the OEM OFCI plan. No fleet operator ever lived or died, was hired or fired, simply because of a lube brand choice. You are putting WAY too much importance into this. "Best" oils can be found, but it takes a huge amount of investment to get there. However, really good service can come easily, inexpensively, and quickly just by choosing a API licensed lube that fits the application(s). Not one of us here (at least anyone who is honest) can tell you what is "best" at this point, because you've only given us a short list of your desires. What we can help you with, should you choose to actually use facts and data, is decipher your UOAs AFTER you get plenty of data for use to go through. In the shadow of lacking data, it's all just a SWAG. We cannot tell you which oil is "best" because we have no data to go on. What we can do (and many already have) is give you a list of many competent lubes that will do a very good job, not break the bank, and be easily attained all while providing a more-than-acceptable wear rate.

Please spend some time looking over the HDEO diesel UOA section. You'll hopefully understand after spending some time there.


First read this:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1664795/%22What_oil_should_I_use?__#Post1664795
Then read this again (if you even took the time to read it the first time I suggested it)
https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/


Get the point I'm making? If you do, you'll do UOAs; that is the "best" advice you can take away from this.
If you don't get the point, then just label me a "smart alack" and I wish you the best.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Sledge_Hammer;
You won't find a direct comparison of one engine oil vs another on million mile tear downs. It was already shown in the video I posted, that 5w40 synthetic was no better than 15w40.



Really didn't figure there was one.

i had saw a list several years back about several different brands/types of oils and they did a metal wear test comparing the different ones. I cannot find that again. I guess I was looking for something like that. From what I can remember amzoil was the 'best', then I think mobile 1. I also think that walmarts super tech was highly rated and so was their heavy duty dino oil. But like i said, that was several years ago.....
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3


You wanted a sincere response; that's the first response I gave you.
You indicated that you were going to ignore the salient advice, and stay on the path of opinions.
You got a terse response from me. What did you expect? We all have opinions; mine is that you're not really interested in facts as much as opinions that are going to coincide with your own.

There are two ways to approach this:
a) analyze your situation fully with science
b) guess at it with a flurry of mythology and rhetoric


Would this be any different that if you asked:
- What's the "best" toothpaste? (there are different ones based on whitining, sensitive teeth, etc)
- What's the "best" stereo speaker? (outdoor, indoor, size constraints, room size, listening preferences, power available from amp, etc)
- What's the "best" rifle? (target, large game, small game, varmits, accuracy, recoil, type of bolt action, weight for carry, etc)
- What's the "best" athletic shoe? (type of sport, fit to foot, preference of materials, etc)

Sir (making a gender presumption here), you must realize that your have already indicated you have a slew of different application considerations; what makes you believe there is a one-size-fits-all "best" oil?????
21.gif
You are sorely mistaken if you believe this to be true. You define "best" as the least wear ... to know that, you're going to have to test the conditions. Again - READ THE ARTICLE I linked. You have to be able to describe/define/display what "normal" is, so that you can accurately identify any product that would cause a positive or negative shift in wear trend data. UNTIL YOU DO THIS, YOU ARE ON A WILD GUESSING CAMPAIGN. To know what is "best" wearing, you need hard data with long term results. The knowledge of "best" is NOT going to come cheaply or easily. But that is how YOU defined "best", so I gave you the answer on what to do.

Now, there are plenty of really good oils, all that will more that do the job of protecting your engines. The reality is that any decent CJ-4 or CK-4 is going to do everything your engines need; good wear control, appreciable cleaning abilities, aid in cooling, etc. That's what oils do.

The difference between "best" and "darn good enough" is the time/money it takes to make a selection. "Best" wearing will take a LOT of time and money to really understand how each engine performs, with the filters being used, and severity factors, etc. But "darn good enough" can be easily had by just choosing a well respected brand name oil and following the OEM OFCI plan. No fleet operator ever lived or died, was hired or fired, simply because of a lube brand choice. You are putting WAY too much importance into this. "Best" oils can be found, but it takes a huge amount of investment to get there. However, really good service can come easily, inexpensively, and quickly just by choosing a API licensed lube that fits the application(s). Not one of us here (at least anyone who is honest) can tell you what is "best" at this point, because you've only given us a short list of your desires. What we can help you with, should you choose to actually use facts and data, is decipher your UOAs AFTER you get plenty of data for use to go through. In the shadow of lacking data, it's all just a SWAG. We cannot tell you which oil is "best" because we have no data to go on. What we can do (and many already have) is give you a list of many competent lubes that will do a very good job, not break the bank, and be easily attained all while providing a more-than-acceptable wear rate.

Please spend some time looking over the HDEO diesel UOA section. You'll hopefully understand after spending some time there.


First read this:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1664795/%22What_oil_should_I_use?__#Post1664795
Then read this again (if you even took the time to read it the first time I suggested it)
https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/


Get the point I'm making? If you do, you'll do UOAs; that is the "best" advice you can take away from this.
If you don't get the point, then just label me a "smart alack" and I wish you the best.




no, your being a smart aleck. You can say what you said without the smart aleck comments. But to each his own I guess.

'Best' for my situation based on either people's experience or test data.

It would take a long time to do all the analysis as you are suggesting and in the mean time i could get pretty close based on test data or other peoples experiences and be 'close' enough.
 
Sledge_Hammer;
Never before have I suggested a one oil solution, but for you I think Amsoil would be the perfect fit.
 
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Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Sledge_Hammer;
Never before have I suggested a one oil solution, but for you I think Amsoil would be the perfect fit.


I understand, we use two. Mobil 1 turbo diesel for the engines we have rebuilt and Rotella T6 for those that we haven't. So far no one has made any comment on the Mobile 1 Turbo diesel and one guy said he didn't like the Rotella T6.

I've considered the Amzoil, but why would you recommend it?

Thanks
 
I'm not recommending Amsoil, just suggesting it.
You believe there is a best and willing to pay for that notion despite DN3's scientific approach to the contrary.
Mobil TDT? Isn't that a 5W40 "synthetic"? What did Chevron's video show?

Note; Mobil's Delvac CK-4 and SHO, depending on the application and fuel sulfur content, are the recommended 5W40 HD products.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
I'm not recommending Amsoil, just suggesting it.
You believe there is a best and willing to pay for that notion despite DN3's scientific approach to the contrary.
Mobil TDT? Isn't that a 5W40 "synthetic"? What did Chevron's video show?

Note; Mobil's Delvac CK-4 and SHO, depending on the application and fuel sulfur content, are the recommended 5W40 HD products.


oh I see, a suggestion differs so greatly over a recommendation...... cute.

There is a 'best', there always is, now perhaps we'll never know what the "best' is and I am glad people can get hung up on the word 'best', rather than helping a guy.

Yes I could spend a year doing what he said and then maybe have some what of an idea or I could could ask what some people with knowledge on the subject thought, but i guess that's not possible either on this forum without being told I'm looking for unicorns.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly


Note; Mobil's Delvac CK-4 and SHO, depending on the application and fuel sulfur content, are the recommended 5W40 HD products.


SHC?
I'm somewhat of an expert on that oil

Charlie
 
Originally Posted By: Sledge_Hammer


I had saw a list several years back about several different brands/types of oils and they did a metal wear test comparing the different ones. I cannot find that again. I guess I was looking for something like that. From what I can remember amzoil was the 'best', then I think mobile 1. I also think that walmarts super tech was highly rated and so was their heavy duty dino oil. But like i said, that was several years ago.....



There are some off the wall tests like the three ball test and the wear scar test that sometimes get applied to motor oils. Then a rating (ranking) is developed and we all start to shoot the list down based on our own experiences, other lab data, other bogus testing, etc.

The folks who really test oil to the limits are like Allison for off-road equipment with their 439 list which represents lubricants that have to work in similar environments to what you describe. It is for oils that work in shared sump designs, but it really is a tough series of tests to pass, and a lot of oils don't ... You can see their list here: http://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/approved-fluids/off-highway-fluids

Any oil on that list will serve well as long as it also meets the engine builder requirements (CAT approval, Cummins, etc.). As long as you are not running a V8 Mack or a Detroit 2-stroke, that's the short list for vehicles that must live in a nasty, dirty world
laugh.gif
 
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Right Charlie,5w40 SHC & MX 15W40. Too good for a fleet of beater dump trucks from the auction with a billion miles on them already.
BrocL beat me to the punch, in plain English a TO-4 except in SAE 50. Mobil's 1640 & 1650, prolly just about the same thing.
Me? I would use the cheapest API approved 15w40 I could find and add SAE 50 or maybe a TO-4 SAE 60 to the oil burners.
The last pail of 50 I bought was Shell Donex, the last SAE 30, and I still have 16L left is Petro-Can Produro TO-4.
In fact that is what I posted a few days ago as one of my favorite SAE 30s.
Minimum HTHS of PCs TO-4s are; SAE 30 3.5, SAE 50 5.2 & SAE 60 7.0.
After all, this thread is called Pot stirring.

www.lubricants.petro-canada.ca

Sorry, but they don't make a discounted 15w40.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: Sledge_Hammer


I had saw a list several years back about several different brands/types of oils and they did a metal wear test comparing the different ones. I cannot find that again. I guess I was looking for something like that. From what I can remember amzoil was the 'best', then I think mobile 1. I also think that walmarts super tech was highly rated and so was their heavy duty dino oil. But like i said, that was several years ago.....



There are some off the wall tests like the three ball test and the wear scar test that sometimes get applied to motor oils. Then a rating (ranking) is developed and we all start to shoot the list down based on our own experiences, other lab data, other bogus testing, etc.

The folks who really test oil to the limits are like Allison for off-road equipment with their 439 list which represents lubricants that have to work in similar environments to what you describe. It is for oils that work in shared sump designs, but it really is a tough series of tests to pass, and a lot of oils don't ... You can see their list here: http://www.allisontransmission.com/parts-service/approved-fluids/off-highway-fluids

Any oil on that list will serve well as long as it also meets the engine builder requirements (CAT approval, Cummins, etc.). As long as you are not running a V8 Mack or a Detroit 2-stroke, that's the short list for vehicles that must live in a nasty, dirty world
laugh.gif



thanks, that helps some
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Originally Posted By: Fraser434
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
When we were in trucking we bought what was local and cheap.
It happened to be Pennzoil for awhile then we went with a brand called Emblem oil.
Regardless these were Triaxle coal trucks which I don't think you could put in more severe service in Pennsylvania then maybe log trucks.
Never a problem oil related with N14/ Series 60 or Silver 92 Detroit's. The 92 ran on straight 40 wt though.
My dad always said oil samples were a waste of money. He wasn't going to tear a motor down for a bad oil sample so why get them.


What if you had a leaking oil cooler or injector cups. You won't notice it till either you see the oil is milky or bearing failure, even had an engine shutdown for low oil pressure, coolant had diluted the oil down enough didn't make pressure. With oil analysis can see these issues from the beginning stage. So I disagree.


Actually the Silver 92 did blow a injector line and pumped the crankcase with diesel. I noticed a problem when the Jake brake quit working because they work off oil pressure and the pressure dropped. Had a mechanic come out, fix the injector, changed the oil and filters and back on the road. No I'll effects probably just a cleaner motor.
These are industrial motors.
They take quite a beating and the newer ones are monitoring constant. The slightest problem with the Series 60 and you get a blinking engine light, better find a wide spot because after 30 it's shutting down and it was so sensitive it picked up a leaking coolant overflow tank getting low.


One of my examples was a CAT 3412, backup generator, injector cups leaked coolant, oil looked suspect, oil sample was at 500 ppm copper. Sample didn't say it was time to tear the motor down but it did say find the coolant leak before it needs to be torn down. Didn't lose enough coolant to overheat or have low coolant shutdown.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Fraser434;
Good paper on the EMD 12X645 you posted on page 1. I thought all those engines had silver bearings and had to use Zn free engine oil.
Those engines like to work hard for long periods of time at their rated HP, otherwise they get cranky.
The short 9 minute ferry hop at half power isn't long enough to burn off the carbon.
I would have used a CF-2 SAE 50 as one of the test oils. Mobil 1250 is one, Zn containing so never in a 16x645, 20x645 or 16x710 EMD.
MTUs list the approved engine oils for specific fuels and specific engines. The download is a mile long.


Marine EMD engines now called CAT E23B or just "710" don't have silver coated bearings. Always good idea to double check.
 
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Here's my take of little knowledge I have gained over the years.

First your running dump trucks & such so it doesn't sound like you would benefit from a fuel saving weight such as 10w-30.

Your older equipment most likely should be ran on 15w-40 vs 10w-30.

Here's the IMPORTANT part...Dump trucks & such run in harsh (dirty) environments so changing the oil on schedule is more crucial.

Others are correct your wasting money on that T6 unless your operating in extreme cold below 20 F regularly.

Here's my opinion... Strike a balance & run T5 15w-40 synthetic blend w/rebates to bring cost down. T4 Conventional would be my second choice for you.

smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Sledge_Hammer
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Sledge_Hammer ....

First
welcome2.gif



Now, understand that you've opened up the hornets nest; I'm sure you'll agree. You seem to already have a preconceived notion here. I'd like to use that against you in a manner which may make you feel uncomfortable at first.

Let me ask you this:
What does "best" mean to you?
Best wearing?
Best cost?
Best ROI?
Best other what???
Until you define "best", in a much clearer and more detailed manner, you'll never get what you seek, because you really don't know what you're after.


I would recommend this approach ...
- Investigate several contenders using UOAs. Take the entire fleet, and run them all on one lube of your choice. Use the engines to first establish a baseline of understanding. Get your data together and do some macro analysis; looking at the set as a whole.
- Then, experiment with a different lube; do the UOAs again.
- Yet again, try some more, and UOA.
- It will take some time and money to find out what you want to know

I would state that the "best" oil is that which gives the longest OCIs AND sustains your desired wear rates. (You'll need to set condemnation limits for both totals and rates).
The reality is that not one person here can tell you what is "best", because it has yet to be discovered. Only by testing will a "best" oil come out of hiding.

There are two ways to manage your maintenance plan
1) to a predetermined time/distance (hours/miles); this approach can be "safe" when set conservatively, but offers a great opportunity for waste
2) to a condemnation limit (wear metal totals; wear metal rates, FP, Vis, etc); this approach takes time and understanding, but can pay for itself easily via savings AND healthy equipment, if managed properly

There are a LOT of great oils out there; many already mentioned. There is no "best" that we can recommend, despite all the marketing hype you'll see and opinions you'll read. There are times when synthetics can pay for the extra cost; many times they cannot. Syns are best utilized in very long OCIs and uber cold temps. Hot temps are not a major concern; if your cooling systems are up to par, then the engine oil should never get hot enough to warrant using a syn. Syns can help in the heat if your system is compromised; but that's a crutch you should not lean on for very long, or disaster will ensue. In some conditions, syns cannot stop things from failing; they can only deter the inevitable. However, if you're equipment is well maintained and your engines have no design flaws, then conventional lubes will do a fine job.

The "best" oil is the one that satisfies your criteria. The better you define it, the more you'll be happy with the result.

Start by reading this:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/



Thanks!

yup, hornets nest...... lol

you are prolly right on doing all that, but there are soooo many variables in what we run on each truck that while it might give me some guidelines, i don't think it would be all that accurate. Filtration is different between the all the trucks, some of double cab side filters, some double single under the hood filters. some trucks will be in the city most of one oil change, some will be out in the oil field etc....

so, that is why I came on here.... What I mean by best is one the reduces wear the most, thus giving me the longest engine life. Down time is expensive and so is rebuilding engines.


There's no way to determine the best oil in regards to wear. If you eventually find the comparison chart that you once saw, or found a brand new one it would be just about useless. Oil formulations change and your application would differ from a lab test or even some field test.

There's nothing special about your operating conditions. Running in a cloud of dust requires good air filtration, not a special oil. You have a mixture of trucks with some having dual cowl mounted air filters and others with a single under hood air filter. The difference between those types is the capacity of filtration and the number of miles/hours that they can run before needing replacement. You can use oil analysis to confirm that the intake plumbing is nice and tight by monitoring silicon (along with actual visual inspection of the plumbing). No oil can save an engine that is ingesting dirt.

Once you pick an oil and get a few oil analyses for each truck, you can start to get an idea of what length of interval is going to work and even allow a little extra safety margin. It doesn't require years of study to get an idea of how a truck and oil combination is performing. Even if a truck switches between city work and oil field you will have something to go by with monitoring of the trucks past performance. Fuel use also has an effect on the depletion of the oil's base number. I don't know anything about your operations, but maybe hours of use would be a better way to determine the change intervals along with the fuel burned. Just another consideration.

Hopefully you can find a distributor or sales rep to work with you in getting bulk oil delivered and help you out. You may be able to get free oil analysis in the deal and consultation from whichever oil company you go with. There's so much more to making an engine last than trying to pick the so called best in wear protection.
 
Originally Posted By: fantastic
Here's my take of little knowledge I have gained over the years.

First your running dump trucks & such so it doesn't sound like you would benefit from a fuel saving weight such as 10w-30.

Your older equipment most likely should be ran on 15w-40 vs 10w-30.

Here's the IMPORTANT part...Dump trucks & such run in harsh (dirty) environments so changing the oil on schedule is more crucial.

Others are correct your wasting money on that T6 unless your operating in extreme cold below 20 F regularly.

Here's my opinion... Strike a balance & run T5 15w-40 synthetic blend w/rebates to bring cost down. T4 Conventional would be my second choice for you.

smile.gif



appreciate that! I see your logic.

How many miles would you between changes?
 
Originally Posted By: dustyroads

There's no way to determine the best oil in regards to wear. If you eventually find the comparison chart that you once saw, or found a brand new one it would be just about useless. Oil formulations change and your application would differ from a lab test or even some field test.

There's nothing special about your operating conditions. Running in a cloud of dust requires good air filtration, not a special oil. You have a mixture of trucks with some having dual cowl mounted air filters and others with a single under hood air filter. The difference between those types is the capacity of filtration and the number of miles/hours that they can run before needing replacement. You can use oil analysis to confirm that the intake plumbing is nice and tight by monitoring silicon (along with actual visual inspection of the plumbing). No oil can save an engine that is ingesting dirt.

Once you pick an oil and get a few oil analyses for each truck, you can start to get an idea of what length of interval is going to work and even allow a little extra safety margin. It doesn't require years of study to get an idea of how a truck and oil combination is performing. Even if a truck switches between city work and oil field you will have something to go by with monitoring of the trucks past performance. Fuel use also has an effect on the depletion of the oil's base number. I don't know anything about your operations, but maybe hours of use would be a better way to determine the change intervals along with the fuel burned. Just another consideration.

Hopefully you can find a distributor or sales rep to work with you in getting bulk oil delivered and help you out. You may be able to get free oil analysis in the deal and consultation from whichever oil company you go with. There's so much more to making an engine last than trying to pick the so called best in wear protection.





Since the trucks can vary dramatically in conditions from one oil change to the oil change, as we run in the city and in the oil fields on dirt roads, what do you think of getting an analysis before every scheduled oil change and use 10,000 miles as the base line to start taking samples? Or run a cheaper oil like what was suggested and just change it every 10k.

Oil distributors in most cases are more expensive here than walmart unfortunately.
 
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