Never changed them out on any of the CRV's I've had. On the V6's, I went ahead and changed them out when I replaced the timing belt because it's a PITA to do that on the V6's and I was already in there, that averaged about 120K on each one and they still looked really good. On the F150, still factory at 87K, but it's a 2001.
How many miles do you get on a serpentine belt?
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I've only ever changed one of my own. I have for other people.
On my Ford Ranger with 284,000 miles, I did like "Larry in new york" said: I bought a new one around 150,xxx miles, and put the old (but still useable one) behind the seat as a spare.
I don't worry about cracks at all. If I start to see little pieces missing, I change it.
Idler pulley replacement seems to be more important - I've replaced many idler pulleys that failed while driving, but never a serpentine belt!
On my Ford Ranger with 284,000 miles, I did like "Larry in new york" said: I bought a new one around 150,xxx miles, and put the old (but still useable one) behind the seat as a spare.
I don't worry about cracks at all. If I start to see little pieces missing, I change it.
Idler pulley replacement seems to be more important - I've replaced many idler pulleys that failed while driving, but never a serpentine belt!
The belt on my Cruze looks fine at 4 years and 97K. I won't change it at 100K when I do a few other maint. things - maybe it'll go 125, 150? As long as it looks good and you check it every few months, unless you're going up the Al-Can highway or across the Sahara why mess with it?
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
If your going to loose sleep not knowing when to change, and that's understandable.
1) Put your 'new' belt ON
2) Keep the 'old' belt in your vehicle for emergencies.
A lot of people do this along with a Wrench for the Tensioner.
That's exactly what I do and also change an idler pulley to have a spare to go with it. I've never had to use my spares but, I did save a fellow motorist with them once.
If your going to loose sleep not knowing when to change, and that's understandable.
1) Put your 'new' belt ON
2) Keep the 'old' belt in your vehicle for emergencies.
A lot of people do this along with a Wrench for the Tensioner.
That's exactly what I do and also change an idler pulley to have a spare to go with it. I've never had to use my spares but, I did save a fellow motorist with them once.
Originally Posted By: merconvvv
As the belt wears off slowly can it effect the charging by the alternator and other stuff ?
No, the tensioner will take up any slack. If it isn't you will hear the belt squealing, most noticeably cold starting in damp conditions.
Claud
As the belt wears off slowly can it effect the charging by the alternator and other stuff ?
No, the tensioner will take up any slack. If it isn't you will hear the belt squealing, most noticeably cold starting in damp conditions.
Claud
You guys are gonna laugh at me...
I drive my Suburban to Florida once, sometimes twice a year. I do not like being stuck on the side of the road. I change my belt and the two idler pulleys every other year. I always keep the ones just off the engine in my kit in the back in case of a failure.
I've also changed the stretch to fit AC belt probably twice in my truck's 136,000 miles.
Only time I've ever had a problem was when the drive by wire throttle body failed. I carry a spare one of them as well.
I drive my Suburban to Florida once, sometimes twice a year. I do not like being stuck on the side of the road. I change my belt and the two idler pulleys every other year. I always keep the ones just off the engine in my kit in the back in case of a failure.
I've also changed the stretch to fit AC belt probably twice in my truck's 136,000 miles.
Only time I've ever had a problem was when the drive by wire throttle body failed. I carry a spare one of them as well.
The original belt on my Matrix started to give a short squeak on cold starts at 27,000 miles and 5 years
Replaced with a Gatorback.
Now with 33,000 miles and 6 years on the new belt it doesn't look new, but works OK.
I'll probably replace the tensioner next time
Replaced with a Gatorback.
Now with 33,000 miles and 6 years on the new belt it doesn't look new, but works OK.
I'll probably replace the tensioner next time
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gathermewool
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Gen OEM serpentone belt in our Forester began squealing at around 30k miles - dealer replaced it under warranty.
It started squealing on colder, wetter days at 40k miles and he dealer said they would charge us for replacement, that it was a normal wear item that should be replaced every year.
I hear it every so often during cold-start, but it doesn't warrant swapping at all. My concern, is that he belt is fine and it's the tensioner that's weak and causing the occasional startup squealing.
It started squealing on colder, wetter days at 40k miles and he dealer said they would charge us for replacement, that it was a normal wear item that should be replaced every year.
I hear it every so often during cold-start, but it doesn't warrant swapping at all. My concern, is that he belt is fine and it's the tensioner that's weak and causing the occasional startup squealing.
Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
The original belt on my Matrix started to give a short squeak on cold starts at 27,000 miles and 5 years
Replaced with a Gatorback.
Now with 33,000 miles and 6 years on the new belt it doesn't look new, but works OK.
I'll probably replace the tensioner next time
I used to get a short squeak on cold starts as well on the 2005 Matrix but it went away. Car has 123k miles and still on the original belt. I'll replace it with an oem belt for under $50. Used the Gates tester tool and the belt still seems fine.
The original belt on my Matrix started to give a short squeak on cold starts at 27,000 miles and 5 years
Replaced with a Gatorback.
Now with 33,000 miles and 6 years on the new belt it doesn't look new, but works OK.
I'll probably replace the tensioner next time
I used to get a short squeak on cold starts as well on the 2005 Matrix but it went away. Car has 123k miles and still on the original belt. I'll replace it with an oem belt for under $50. Used the Gates tester tool and the belt still seems fine.
I'm probably due. 165k mi and I don't remember if I've ever changed it or not
Thanks again all for the info.
I think I'll see if I get 150k from the OEM belt then change to the new belt, if things go as planned now.
Idea
Since there is about 6 pulley's (1 is idler another tensioner) and no belt diagram label under the hood, I have found a good belt diagram on line then took a good clear shot of it on the smartphone. Also printed a copy to throw in the glove box. So in the future should I blow off a belt I can check on the phone or the paper in the glove box and have a good diagram to go by.
With the replies, I think I'll go ahead and order an idler and tensioner too. See about replacing those and throw the used in the cargo area as a couple more just-in-case items.
Just never had gone this far on a belt, serpentine or v-drive belt. Seems well made nowadays.
I think I'll see if I get 150k from the OEM belt then change to the new belt, if things go as planned now.
Idea
With the replies, I think I'll go ahead and order an idler and tensioner too. See about replacing those and throw the used in the cargo area as a couple more just-in-case items.
Just never had gone this far on a belt, serpentine or v-drive belt. Seems well made nowadays.
The original alternator-water-pump belt (plain V, non-serpentine) on my Mazda went 222K, despite the marginal wrap angle on the crank pulley. Next one, about the same---not counting one that was short-lived due to an oil leak. Like others have mentioned, I always carried a spare, either a new one or useable old one.
Long ago, I bought a v-belt (for $1 or so!) at Kmart for my Subaru. At only about 1000 miles, I luckily happened to notice it had a big chunk missing. I returned it to Kmart for a replacement, which outlasted the car.
Long ago, I bought a v-belt (for $1 or so!) at Kmart for my Subaru. At only about 1000 miles, I luckily happened to notice it had a big chunk missing. I returned it to Kmart for a replacement, which outlasted the car.
all you late model serpentine belt changers remember a little heavy tape will hold the belt in place on the pulleys as you wrap the giant snake like thing around all those accessory drives...
Ironically, I just got back from getting the serp belt changed at the dealer for my wife's 2007 Frontier. I asked to take the old belt, just to see what it looked and felt like after 10+ years and 77K miles.
I was glad I changed it. No obvious cracking or chunks, but it did feel very dry, and the ribs were somewhat crusty.
For an old guy who remembers unquestioningly changing V-belts every 30K, the engineering on these things is amazing.
I was glad I changed it. No obvious cracking or chunks, but it did feel very dry, and the ribs were somewhat crusty.
For an old guy who remembers unquestioningly changing V-belts every 30K, the engineering on these things is amazing.
Originally Posted By: gizzsdad
Ironically, I just got back from getting the serp belt changed at the dealer for my wife's 2007 Frontier. I asked to take the old belt, just to see what it looked and felt like after 10+ years and 77K miles.
I was glad I changed it. No obvious cracking or chunks, but it did feel very dry, and the ribs were somewhat crusty.
For an old guy who remembers unquestioningly changing V-belts every 30K, the engineering on these things is amazing.
A little highly saturated nitrile and a string of Kevlar will go a long, long, long way
Ironically, I just got back from getting the serp belt changed at the dealer for my wife's 2007 Frontier. I asked to take the old belt, just to see what it looked and felt like after 10+ years and 77K miles.
I was glad I changed it. No obvious cracking or chunks, but it did feel very dry, and the ribs were somewhat crusty.
For an old guy who remembers unquestioningly changing V-belts every 30K, the engineering on these things is amazing.
A little highly saturated nitrile and a string of Kevlar will go a long, long, long way
Originally Posted By: Errtt
Thanks again all for the info.
I think I'll see if I get 150k from the OEM belt then change to the new belt, if things go as planned now.
Idea
Since there is about 6 pulley's (1 is idler another tensioner) and no belt diagram label under the hood, I have found a good belt diagram on line then took a good clear shot of it on the smartphone. Also printed a copy to throw in the glove box. So in the future should I blow off a belt I can check on the phone or the paper in the glove box and have a good diagram to go by.
Another helpful hint is there's a ribbed side and a smooth side. The crank, AC, and alternator will (almost) always get the ribs because of the high loads while water pumps and idlers can be smooth. The idler will also be positioned so the belt wraps way around the alternator, over 180 degrees most times.
If one wants to be anal, they could exercise the tensioner annually. Heck, remove the belt so the tensioner can have its full travel. The pivot points tend to seize up when they don't move hardly at all over the lifetime.
Wife's HHR serp belt was about done at 205k but not showing symptoms. New one was
Thanks again all for the info.
I think I'll see if I get 150k from the OEM belt then change to the new belt, if things go as planned now.
Idea
Another helpful hint is there's a ribbed side and a smooth side. The crank, AC, and alternator will (almost) always get the ribs because of the high loads while water pumps and idlers can be smooth. The idler will also be positioned so the belt wraps way around the alternator, over 180 degrees most times.
If one wants to be anal, they could exercise the tensioner annually. Heck, remove the belt so the tensioner can have its full travel. The pivot points tend to seize up when they don't move hardly at all over the lifetime.
Wife's HHR serp belt was about done at 205k but not showing symptoms. New one was
Today's technology and years of companies using different materials like aramid, nylon fiber, epdm, etc. etc. I would expect most all or quality or aftermarket high quality belts to last the engines lifetime. I would say that in an event a serp. belt wears out, breaks it would be from bad pulleys, out of alignment, screw coming loose, anything pulley related to be the cause. A belt should last 200K plus. I know my last new car had the same serp belt on it for 11 years til I parted with the car and it looked new. Kinda like an engine blown up. It didn't just stop working cause of age, something caused an error and it could be various things.
8 or 9 years ago I worked the parts counter at a GM dealership. We had to watch training videos occasionally. One video was on serpentine belts. They stated all the newer GM vehicles have EPDM (synthetic rubber) serpentine belts that were designed to last 100k miles.
The EPDM belts do indeed seem to have no trouble reaching 100k.
OP, the Bando brand belts in my experience are a good quality belt, any I have seen recently are EPDM material. Bando is an OEM supplier for many Japanese car manufacturers. When I worked parts at the Nissan counter, most of the OEM Nissan belts were Bando.
I think since the OP has over 100k on his belt, I would change it and keep the old one as an emergency spare.
The EPDM belts do indeed seem to have no trouble reaching 100k.
OP, the Bando brand belts in my experience are a good quality belt, any I have seen recently are EPDM material. Bando is an OEM supplier for many Japanese car manufacturers. When I worked parts at the Nissan counter, most of the OEM Nissan belts were Bando.
I think since the OP has over 100k on his belt, I would change it and keep the old one as an emergency spare.
I changed mine at about 70k. The previous owner had one break at 113k and it caused $1500 in damage, and the broken belt didn't even get sucked past the front crank seal like they're prone to do. And given that getting to the belt takes 4 hours, I'll change it regularly. N54 BMW btw.
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