1st brake job on my 2012 Honda Accord

[Chris B.]

I appreciate the input and help everyone! Torque was always set properly at 80 ft-lbs on the lug nuts. It is odd because some time the shuttering goes away but always comes back quickly. It is almost it have to hit the pedal at the right moment. Much more noticeable at highway speeds.

 

[Chris B.]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
My 2012 Accord has 70,000 miles on it and the rotors are wraped badly. The pads have lots of meat left but I cant stand the car shaking when I hit the breaks so I'm going to replace everything. A good friend of mine can get me parts at NAPA at a pretty good discount so I'd like to take him up on that offer. What would you say is the best parts for this job that I can get at NAPA? The factory rotors started warping between 40,000 and 50,000 miles and slowly got worse till now at 70.000 miles. I'd like to get a rotor that would resist warping and pads that last and bite well too. Are Ultra Premium rotors and adaptive One pads a good combo? Thanks for any recommendation!!!

I am running Ultra Premiums and Adaptive One's on my Honda Pilot for the last 10K miles and are very happy with them. My AO's are made in Canada and rated GG, both make me happy. They have plenty of bite. My buddy has had AO's on his Volvo's for several years now. No pulsating problems.

The "best parts" may include SilGlyde as well, but other brake-qualified greases will do.

The rotors pulsating or "warping" may happen again unless you check parallelism, rotor runout, and properly bed the brakes (not breaks). These are simple things to do, but many people would rather trust random chance and claim "these things are set at the factory" or other nonsense.

I have the instruments, I've had to correct for runout by re-indexing the rotors. Yet some people would rather be blind and trust to luck. My cheap C-Tek rotors on the Toyota have 58K with zero "warping" feeling when braking. I've lubed the brakes once since I put them on and that's it. But I did check parallelism and corrected for runout when I installed them 3 years ago.


What is parallelism and runout? How do I properly bed/break in the new brakes? Thanks!

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
My 08 Accord: The Brakes Life
At 16,800 miles the dealer refinish the front brake discs, and install new brake pads with V-springs.
At 29,000 miles, install new WagnerThermoQuiet® Brake Pads - Rear Part No PD1336. Slide pins was stuck.
At 75,200 miles, install new Wagner PD1336 Brake Pad - Rear Part No PD1336
At 83,325 miles, install new Carquest Wearever Brake Rotor - Front Part No. YH145287 and Wagner ThermoQuiet QC787 Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set
Current miles 95,625 miles. Cost $113.72 total.
Wearever rotors are doing good so far. Rear rotors and pads will be replaced next. Will use Centric rotors and maybe Wagner pads.

Is it the climate there or the driving type?.....I am in New Mexico and my CR-V is at 133,000 miles with no brake service and I have about 55% left on the original pads.

First item at 16.8K is neither. That's a classic new-Honda issue, pulsating brakes. They don't follow their own FSM advice and assume new rotors will be assembled with no run-out. After 10K or more, pulsation.

My assessment:
16.8K Front- Honda assembly error
29K Rear- Climate/Salt
75K Rear- Normal Wear & Tear
83K Front- Normal Wear & Tear

But you're right, my brakes last much longer, but I take longer drives and live in a rural area.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: Chris B.
What is parallelism and runout? How do I properly bed/break in the new brakes? Thanks!

The Parallelism check is really easy. Just measure 8 more-or-less equidistant spots around the rotor with a common micrometer. Results should be the same all the way around. Allowed variation in factory manuals runs .0005" (half a thou) to .0015" (one and a half thou). Recently I've been getting ZERO. But, at least I KNOW. And if it fails, I get to return it before mounting it.

Runout is a measurement, in thousandths of an inch, of the wobble of the installed rotor. It is taken with a Dial Indicator on some kind of stand or clip. Lately I usually get some runout, usually fixable by pulling the rotor off, spinning it a bit to put different holes through the lugs ("indexing"). Sometimes further cleaning and deburring of the hub is necessary. Runout should be less then whatever the Factory Service Manual says it should be. Factory specs differ, but my Honda Factory Service Manual says .004" or less. A runout check looks like this on my Honda (note 3 lug nuts installed to snug up rotor):

FYI, the little machine screw holes don't need to line up on Hondas.
Here is my equipment: https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Nsk-72-585-155-X-Proof-Resistant/dp/B0042SQSPM

There are many ways to bed pads to rotors, most of them valid. What I do is go (approximately) 60 to 10 MPH several times in a row, never stopping, until rotors are hot. Then drive until rotors cool. Stopping might lead to pad imprinting, which is one of the primary causes of brake shudder/pulsation.

The other primary causes of brake shudder/pulsation are: non-parallel rotors, rotor runout, and overtorqued lugs/warped rotors.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Napa sells Akebono pads, which are good stuff. Get coated rotors, which I think the Ultra Premium rotors are.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Napa sells Akebono pads, which are good stuff. Get coated rotors, which I think the Ultra Premium rotors are.

They are.

 

[Tundragod]

Originally Posted By: HangFire

Is it the climate there or the driving type?.....I am in New Mexico and my CR-V is at 133,000 miles with no brake service and I have about 55% left on the original pads.


Yes, climate, short trips, Honda mishaps, and my itch to keep the car tip top shape.
16.8K Front- Honda assembly error ----- they had the TBS adding v spring that year
29K Rear- Climate/Salt ----- Correct, 3 1/2 winters without lubing the slides or checking calipers.
75K Rear- Normal Wear & Tear ----- Replacement was not needed but I had the pads on hand and I got it for only $8.53 after $15 rebate.
83K Front- Normal Wear & Tear ----- After 67,712 miles from the 16.8k, I felt the need to replace the rotors and pads.

 

[Stevie]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Stevie
Even my Mercedes dealer had mine way way over specs. Discount tire is one of the few that is careful about this and uses torque sticks.


You just contradicted yourself. You said they're careful, and use torque sticks.

Careful would mean using a torque wrench.


Guess you don't know what a torque stick is. Even better then a torque wrench when it pertains to lug nuts.

 

[AVB]

How is a torque stick better? I don't have a problem with torque sticks, but I would not say they are better than a torque wrench. Personally I just use an impact and common sense, I am not that anal about it.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: Stevie
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Stevie
Even my Mercedes dealer had mine way way over specs. Discount tire is one of the few that is careful about this and uses torque sticks.


You just contradicted yourself. You said they're careful, and use torque sticks.

Careful would mean using a torque wrench.

Guess you don't know what a torque stick is. Even better then a torque wrench when it pertains to lug nuts.

Guess you guess wrong. Read up about it. Torque sticks can and do get abused.

I got educated almost 2 decades ago when I was jumping up and down on a 2.5' break bar to get lug nuts off that the service manager assured me on the phone could not be overtorqued because of torque sticks. So I brought in and slammed down on the counter a half dozen buttressed thread lugs (not nuts) and several more cross-threaded lugs (not nuts) and said, "please tell me how your torque sticks prevented this." (Goodyear tire shop, by the way). I fixed it myself and they paid the tab for dealer parts. No freakin way I'd let them touch my truck again.

And wow, what a statement: "Even better then a torque wrench when it pertains to lug nuts." I guess if your only metric of "better" is "faster"!

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I probably need to re torque all mine. I put them on with a 4-way lug wrench and while I don't stand on it or anything I have no way to measure what they are actually being torqued to