Seeking body shop advice re: fixing bad clearcoat

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: JTK
Not trying to derail, but rates must vary widely by area. My darling bride cut the turn into a parking lot approach too short and crushed in a section of the rocker panel on our 2016 Nissan Quest against a stone structure. Made it to two payments in this time.. anyway. Before she even came home she swung by the body shop we use for a repair estimate. According to their multi-page estimate, my shop charges $48/hr for body labor and paint labor. FWIW, estimate was $884.





When you break that $884 down to actual working time and materials its a lot more than $48 an hr. Its a numbers game ginned up for insurance companies as they are the ones on the hook much of the time.
If you take the car in for mechanical work (not warranty) they charge upwards of $100 hr around here its more in some dealerships. You pay the parts and the labor and possibly disposal fee, materials and other small padding items. With the body shop its much different.
That job legit is 5-6 working hrs and no more than $125 in materials so take the full 6 hrs and $150 for materials it comes out to $420, where does the other $464 come from?

Charge $90 for 6 hrs and $200 retail for materials and you have $740 I don't see any parts replacement in that job from the pictures. Take shooting a door, prep and actual paint time 3 hrs a bit of paper and disc, half pint of unreduced paint, half a pint reducer, pint of clear, sand and buff another hour.
$45 an hr x 4hrs plus materials comes to $305, now way in Hades are you getting a getting a decent quality job for that, maybe Maaco or Earl Scheib where some franchises used Vaseline back in the day on some of larger chrome trim instead of taping it (no kidding I saw it in the late 70's).
As long as the insurance companies don't see the high labor rates they accept funky numbers for almost everything else. Estimate writing to get it over is almost an art form.


Trav, I hear you on that. I could post a pic of the estimate, but there's nothing listed for parts at all. 10hrs @ $48/hr for body labor, 4.1hrs @ 48/hr for paint and 4.1hrs @ $28/hr for "paint supplies". $21 for "miscellaneous" and $71 sales tax. Dunno what the bride told him, but this would be out of pocket. No insurance.


I figured $740 from the picture, add tax and their miscellaneous and we are getting close eh.
 
Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
"Independent painters"? This is a 2017 Corvette. If you take it to some random guy, who provides the warranty? Does he dump his excess paint in the storm drain? Most importantly: does he have a secured parking facility with cameras and/or a night watchman? No, it's gonna sit in his garage.

33.gif



You are clearly an expert on anything paint. I won't debate an expert. The OP should do all that you tell him.


Your suggestion was silly for practical reasons that have nothing to do with the paint. And yes, I do think that I have useful advice for OP. I'm confident of that because I have industry experience. Everyone's opinion is not equal. Every opinion should withstand scrutiny. That's how we can best help OP. That's democracy, really.
 
I wouldn't be comfortable taking it to someone independent. The last thing I want is another shoddy job or someone who won't stand behind their work down the road.
 
Visited shop #4 so their actual paint guy could look instead of the body shop manager.

He offered to try and wet sand so the defects could be "minimized" but not outright removed. It would probably be 9/10ths of the way to what a new paint job would look like for only a few hundred bucks.

His only concern was that if this new clearcoat wasn't thick enough/too few coats, they might go through it when wetsanding and then you have to go all-in on paint and clearcoat. I may call the original shop and outright ask him how much clearcoat they used.

In other words, he is leaning a bit more towards shop #3 after seeing it in person.
 
I just typed a hopelessly complicated, needlessly detailed post for about an hour, then realized that it boils down to this:

How many dirt nibs do you have: less than 10, 10 to 100, or hundreds?

How many fisheyes do you have: less than 10, 10 to 100, or hundreds?

Are any of the dirt nibs under the color? (Instead of a little transparent waterfall, they look like an Admiral Blue waterfall. You won't be able to feel them with your finger.)
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
I just typed a hopelessly complicated, needlessly detailed post for about an hour, then realized that it boils down to this:

How many dirt nibs do you have: less than 10, 10 to 100, or hundreds?

How many fisheyes do you have: less than 10, 10 to 100, or hundreds?

Are any of the dirt nibs under the color? (Instead of a little transparent waterfall, they look like an Admiral Blue waterfall. You won't be able to feel them with your finger.)



Probably 10-20 of each, but none are under the color since 99% of the color on the bumper is original. All of the problems are in the clearcoat.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Visited shop #4 so their actual paint guy could look instead of the body shop manager.

He offered to try and wet sand so the defects could be "minimized" but not outright removed. It would probably be 9/10ths of the way to what a new paint job would look like for only a few hundred bucks.

His only concern was that if this new clearcoat wasn't thick enough/too few coats, they might go through it when wetsanding and then you have to go all-in on paint and clearcoat. I may call the original shop and outright ask him how much clearcoat they used.

In other words, he is leaning a bit more towards shop #3 after seeing it in person.



Now I'm curious. What did the shop that originally repaired it do on the two follow-up attempts? Hard to believe they wouldn't have color sanded and buffed like shop 4 wants to try.
 
Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: dparm
Visited shop #4 so their actual paint guy could look instead of the body shop manager.

He offered to try and wet sand so the defects could be "minimized" but not outright removed. It would probably be 9/10ths of the way to what a new paint job would look like for only a few hundred bucks.

His only concern was that if this new clearcoat wasn't thick enough/too few coats, they might go through it when wetsanding and then you have to go all-in on paint and clearcoat. I may call the original shop and outright ask him how much clearcoat they used.

In other words, he is leaning a bit more towards shop #3 after seeing it in person.



Now I'm curious. What did the shop that originally repaired it do on the two follow-up attempts? Hard to believe they wouldn't have color sanded and buffed like shop 4 wants to try.




They didn't do anything to the fish eyes -- said they couldn't and that "sometimes it just happens". They did remove some of the milky/hazy clearcoat, probably by wet sanding or buffing. The tape lines and rough clearcoat are still present, so, in my opinion, they did very little in those two follow-ups.
 
So the bumper has never come off. Yet people say thats a given.

Is #4 going to remove the bumper for his cheap fix?

If you're going to track this car a lot it won't matter in the end
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
So the bumper has never come off. Yet people say thats a given.

Is #4 going to remove the bumper for his cheap fix?

If you're going to track this car a lot it won't matter in the end




The bumper came off for the original fix, yes.

No, he will not need to remove the bumper for spot wet sanding.

I disagree on the tracking thing -- the rear of the car isn't going to get beat up like the front would. The front is already wrapped with Xpel film for this very reason.
 
I'm guessing the cost is out of pocket? If shop #4 can do a pretty decent job without re-shooting the clear then I think I'd live with it until a point down the road when other touch-up needs to be done, especially if the first shop's work gets worse and needs to be completely redone at that time. At least by then that new car worry will have subsided and the anxiety level of dealing with shops won't seem as bad.
 
Originally Posted By: funflyer
I'm guessing the cost is out of pocket? If shop #4 can do a pretty decent job without re-shooting the clear then I think I'd live with it until a point down the road when other touch-up needs to be done, especially if the first shop's work gets worse and needs to be completely redone at that time. At least by then that new car worry will have subsided and the anxiety level of dealing with shops won't seem as bad.




Yes, out of pocket, but that's not really the issue -- the end result is.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top