Magnefine Inline Filter and the 4T65E Transmission

[JustN89]

Some background here, my 2005 Impala with the 4T65E transmission started experiencing the dreaded hard shift when it reached operating temp. Instead of lowering the subframe and messing with everything to get to the side cover to swap to out the PCS, I just decided to try a new filter, fluid and install new magnets per the GM magnet TSB. All seems well, but have been contemplating adding an external filter to help further prevent metal shavings collecting on the PCS. Which brings me to the Magnefine Inline filter. I have been reading reviews of these filters which are all extremely positive and was thinking about installing one of these. However, there's remarkably little information out there about the install process (I only read it's fairly simple) so please forgive my ignorance here.

My transmission has metal cooler lines which I'm thinking will complicate the install over transmissions with rubber hoses. I understand that you have to cut out a portion of the line for the filter to fit into, but for those that have installed this filter on metal lines, would you recommend I just buy a new cooler line and cut the line to install the filter before installing it in the car? Or is it pretty simple to cut my old line that's already installed? What did you use to cut and then deburr the line?

Any insight is appreciated!

 

[Linctex]

You don't need to cut the line at all, if you get the right fittings. Barbed hose fittings are available that thread into the cooler in the radiator, and also the coolant line. I have done many this way - though sometimes you have to bend the metal line a little bit.

 

[i_hate_autofraud]

I’d be careful, there’s not a lot of room from the tranny to the cooler in your Impala or mine
for an in line filter.

Instead, I dropped the pan and placed several more mags under the dif where there’s an OEM ring
mag on 2008 and later years. Any place where there's clearance I’d stick a mag.

The 4T65E oil filter has steel at the intake and is recessed (the filter is otherwise zero clearance
to the pan) and I’ve place 4 bar magnets there as well.

Finally, inline compared to inside the pan magnets: inside pan magnets are exposed to a much larger
flow of ATF then what goes thru the cooler line alone. There's a thermostat in the tranny that limits
flow to the cooler, so the flow and effectiveness is further reduced.

I agree the PCS valve is vunerable to metal particles and sticking. The hard shifting you got is
likely a P1811 OBD code like I had. It’s worthwhile disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes to reset
it, or the tranny will default to very high oil pressure that can damage TCC and jam the torque
converter into a locked-on condition, then it’s undriveable.

NEVER put a magnet on the outside of the tranny oil pan. Why? The pan is .040 to .075" thick steel
where most of the magnet's field is shunted by the thick metal, meaning it'll do little good inside
the pan. (On spin-on engine oil filters with steel only .010 to .020" thick, outside magnets work great,
because the steel is thin, as an example.)

 

[JustN89]

Originally Posted By: Linctex
You don't need to cut the line at all, if you get the right fittings. Barbed hose fittings are available that thread into the cooler in the radiator, and also the coolant line. I have done many this way - though sometimes you have to bend the metal line a little bit.


I'm sorry, but I've never done this before and I'm a little bit confused here.

I haven't received the filter yet so I haven't been able to go through the instructions they provide, but I read that it was recommended to be installed in the middle of a straight section of the steel tubing near the pan. Wouldn't that necessitate cutting some of the line out for install? Or can it be installed elsewhere? I'm assuming that your put yours close to the radiator, using the barbed hose fitting to run a rubber hose from radiator to filter, then more rubber hosing from filter to steel line and then bending the steel line to fit since there is now excess line (original line + rubber hosing + filter)?

Edited to include quote.

 

[Dyusik]

+

= bypass filtration , than stick magnets on the can if you want to.

 

[901Memphis]

The transgo shift kit will go a long way to helping preserve what's left of the friction clutches, if you buy it you could have a independent transmission shop install it.

My Buick had very hard shifts from max line pressure for two years,l and was still working when it was taken out, it's now got a triple edge standard rebuild in it and I need to do my first fluidity change in it now, actually overdue. The triple edge unit has the transgo kit installed and it still shifts beautifully under hard and easy acceleration

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I would recommend a Magnefine if you can find a way to install it. Their magnet is a lot stronger than what comes in a trans pan, and the fluid is pumped right past it. Every one I've opened had caught about as much metal paste as an in-pan magnet on the first pan drop.

Originally Posted By: JustN89
Originally Posted By: Linctex
You don't need to cut the line at all, if you get the right fittings. Barbed hose fittings are available that thread into the cooler in the radiator, and also the coolant line. I have done many this way - though sometimes you have to bend the metal line a little bit.


I'm sorry, but I've never done this before and I'm a little bit confused here.

I haven't received the filter yet so I haven't been able to go through the instructions they provide, but I read that it was recommended to be installed in the middle of a straight section of the steel tubing near the pan. Wouldn't that necessitate cutting some of the line out for install? Or can it be installed elsewhere? I'm assuming that your put yours close to the radiator, using the barbed hose fitting to run a rubber hose from radiator to filter, then more rubber hosing from filter to steel line and then bending the steel line to fit since there is now excess line (original line + rubber hosing + filter)?



I think you're understanding it. The basic process Linctex described is to undo one of the cooler lines from the radiator and insert the filter--with rubber hose and proper fittings--between that line and the radiator. Splicing the filter in like this lets you avoid cutting the hard line.

If you go that route, verify the type of fittings you'll need. Most GMs used a quick-connect trans fitting with a retainer clip and o-ring by the 2000s. Installation kits for transmission coolers might be a way to find what you need.

I don't think they will be as effective as a Magnefine, but ATP has some smaller inline magnetic filters that connect directly to the radiator. Maybe one of these would fit your application.

ATP Filter Connectors

I have to say, I opened a filter similar to these and wasn't impressed compared to Magnefine. The magnet was a lot smaller and it had a piece of screen instead of an actual filter. But the simpler installation and the fact that it has a magnet might make it worthwhile to you.

Are your trans lines all metal? My Chevy pickup has a section of rubber hose in the line, so I was able to cut a piece out to install the Magnefine. Like you mentioned, I bought a new line first in case the installation didn't work.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic
Most GMs used a quick-connect trans fitting with a retainer clip and o-ring by the 2000s.


I hate the concept, but it does make the assembly line go a little faster.

When I do those, I often bring a mini tubing cutter to the wrecking yard and cut the end off of a metal line from one of the cars headed to the crusher. It makes it so much easier to attach the rubber line to the radiator tank cooler if you start with a "stub" piece of factory line.

 

[Linctex]

Modify my little sketch to suit your purposes:

 

[JustN89]

Sorry, I left that off. I did install a TransGo shift kit as well. I know it's a bandaid, but I'm hoping that it will help the transmission last a few more years. For what it's worth, it did improve shifting quite a bit! The shifting is still stiff when it warms up, but there's no longer any hard banging into gear.

 

[JustN89]

Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic
I would recommend a Magnefine if you can find a way to install it. Their magnet is a lot stronger than what comes in a trans pan, and the fluid is pumped right past it. Every one I've opened had caught about as much metal paste as an in-pan magnet on the first pan drop.

Originally Posted By: JustN89
Originally Posted By: Linctex
You don't need to cut the line at all, if you get the right fittings. Barbed hose fittings are available that thread into the cooler in the radiator, and also the coolant line. I have done many this way - though sometimes you have to bend the metal line a little bit.


I'm sorry, but I've never done this before and I'm a little bit confused here.

I haven't received the filter yet so I haven't been able to go through the instructions they provide, but I read that it was recommended to be installed in the middle of a straight section of the steel tubing near the pan. Wouldn't that necessitate cutting some of the line out for install? Or can it be installed elsewhere? I'm assuming that your put yours close to the radiator, using the barbed hose fitting to run a rubber hose from radiator to filter, then more rubber hosing from filter to steel line and then bending the steel line to fit since there is now excess line (original line + rubber hosing + filter)?



I think you're understanding it. The basic process Linctex described is to undo one of the cooler lines from the radiator and insert the filter--with rubber hose and proper fittings--between that line and the radiator. Splicing the filter in like this lets you avoid cutting the hard line.

If you go that route, verify the type of fittings you'll need. Most GMs used a quick-connect trans fitting with a retainer clip and o-ring by the 2000s. Installation kits for transmission coolers might be a way to find what you need.

I don't think they will be as effective as a Magnefine, but ATP has some smaller inline magnetic filters that connect directly to the radiator. Maybe one of these would fit your application.

ATP Filter Connectors

I have to say, I opened a filter similar to these and wasn't impressed compared to Magnefine. The magnet was a lot smaller and it had a piece of screen instead of an actual filter. But the simpler installation and the fact that it has a magnet might make it worthwhile to you.

Are your trans lines all metal? My Chevy pickup has a section of rubber hose in the line, so I was able to cut a piece out to install the Magnefine. Like you mentioned, I bought a new line first in case the installation didn't work.




Thanks for the reply! It has a small section of rubber tubing which helps it make a turn, but there's not enough room for the filter. I'll probably have to fasten it next to the radiator like Linctex advised.

 

[JustN89]

Originally Posted By: Linctex
Modify my little sketch to suit your purposes:



Thank you!

 

[Shaman]

I was going to recommend the OKGPC shift kit until I read that you already had one.

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2284831&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1

 

[Donald]

I have put Magnefine inline filters in the transmission line in several vehicles. It can go in the supply or return line. Magnefine does sell some connectors for steel lines. I have only had to install in rubber lines.

When I unscrew the Magnefine I seldom find much in the media filter section but always some metallic paste on the magnet.

 

[Corelokt]

I was going to suggest a mini tubing cutter as well. Under 10 bucks and very useful.

 

[MarcS]

My experience with the 4t65e in a supercharged application was that all you need is a couple doughnut magnets and fresh dexVI every 30K