Screw that holds rotor to the hub
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I would not put it on, but if you do , use a bit of anti-seize.
Put the screw in.
You'll find out why when you go to install the lug bolts and accidentally rotate the disc but not the hub. Makes the job real fun.
You'll find out why when you go to install the lug bolts and accidentally rotate the disc but not the hub. Makes the job real fun.
I've always wondered if I did not put the screws back in, would it change the balance of the assembly and possibly cause a high speed vibration?
Originally Posted By: Kool1
I've always wondered if I did not put the screws back in, would it change the balance of the assembly and possibly cause a high speed vibration?
No. Not at the screw's arm and the speeds generally travelled on public roads.
I did read the other day that the Veyron's valve stem cap weighs about 30lbs at it's top speed, so that's something to think about.
I've always wondered if I did not put the screws back in, would it change the balance of the assembly and possibly cause a high speed vibration?
No. Not at the screw's arm and the speeds generally travelled on public roads.
I did read the other day that the Veyron's valve stem cap weighs about 30lbs at it's top speed, so that's something to think about.
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
only to make life harder on whoever is trying to put a tire on in the rain on the dark
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
only to make life harder on whoever is trying to put a tire on in the rain on the dark
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
Mercedes is like that too, bolts, not studs. Plus their bolts aren't even chrome, they rust out too. They do come with a tool so you can line up the bolt hole. Once you get the tire on, it does have some sort of lip that it sits on so you don't have to hold it up the whole time, you just spin it a little to get the holes to line up.
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
Mercedes is like that too, bolts, not studs. Plus their bolts aren't even chrome, they rust out too. They do come with a tool so you can line up the bolt hole. Once you get the tire on, it does have some sort of lip that it sits on so you don't have to hold it up the whole time, you just spin it a little to get the holes to line up.
The gmt800 trucks in our fleet at work all seem to have come with the rotor screw. The replacement rotors we get from napa have no counter sunk hole to reinstall the screw
Two reasons for putting the screws in:
1) These holes are used to remove the rotors. The screws protect these holes. Use two larger screws to jack the rotor off, if stuck on hub.
2) Rotors can spin with European style lug bolts, when changing tires. Of course, if you use a guide pin during tire change this is not an issue.
1) These holes are used to remove the rotors. The screws protect these holes. Use two larger screws to jack the rotor off, if stuck on hub.
2) Rotors can spin with European style lug bolts, when changing tires. Of course, if you use a guide pin during tire change this is not an issue.
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
One savings is that bolts don't need the serrations to hold them in the hub that the studs need, plus the savings of not having to case harden the bolts during heat treatment. Serrations require case hardening.
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
One savings is that bolts don't need the serrations to hold them in the hub that the studs need, plus the savings of not having to case harden the bolts during heat treatment. Serrations require case hardening.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
One savings is that bolts don't need the serrations to hold them in the hub that the studs need, plus the savings of not having to case harden the bolts during heat treatment. Serrations require case hardening.
Cool! I learnt something today.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I have wondered why anyone designs a wheel hub combo with bolts instead of studs.
One savings is that bolts don't need the serrations to hold them in the hub that the studs need, plus the savings of not having to case harden the bolts during heat treatment. Serrations require case hardening.
Cool! I learnt something today.
Heh heh Use a little screwdriver to clean out the socket. give the socket head a few good raps with a ball peen. Insert the allen wrench and give it a good slap with the hammer. Wallowed out Allen sockets can be fixed with a ball peen . It moves the displaced metal back into the socket. Done properly, the allen wrench will need to be tapped into place with the hammer. Afterward, grease up the screw and don't put it in so tight. Worst case is to drill off the head and replace the screw, but that's cheating
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I take them out and leave them out. If I can't get them out with a screwdriver then I just drill the head off.
If one wanted to keep using them stainless steel would be the way to go.
You won't after you have to drill out a stainless screw
I take them out and leave them out. If I can't get them out with a screwdriver then I just drill the head off.
If one wanted to keep using them stainless steel would be the way to go.
You won't after you have to drill out a stainless screw
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I take them out and leave them out. If I can't get them out with a screwdriver then I just drill the head off.
If one wanted to keep using them stainless steel would be the way to go.
You won't after you have to drill out a stainless screw
You just need to drill off the head. 1/4" drill bit is perfect. Takes less time than using a screwdriver to remove them even if the threads are new.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I take them out and leave them out. If I can't get them out with a screwdriver then I just drill the head off.
If one wanted to keep using them stainless steel would be the way to go.
You won't after you have to drill out a stainless screw
You just need to drill off the head. 1/4" drill bit is perfect. Takes less time than using a screwdriver to remove them even if the threads are new.
Also some vehicles have a bit of a knurled lip on the hub where the rotor sits flat. Without the hold down bolt, sometimes the rotor won't sit 100% flush to the rotor. This isn't a new phenomenon, rotor hold down bolts have been used by various manufacturers for decades and decades.
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