Honda A02 and FRAM XG7317 Cut Open and Compared

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I had two 7317 sized filters to cut open and thought it might be interesting to post them together and compare some components (obviously the filter media is different). As most members know, some Honda filters are made by FRAM. I'm not saying one is better than the other, I'm just showing the differences. Both filters were dried before taking pictures.

The Honda filter is off of a friend's 2008 Honda Civic Si. I don't know how long it was in use.
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This FRAM was used on a 2011 Honda CR-Z for 4,000 miles (about 180 of those miles were on the race track). It was removed to visually check the clearance of a new oil temperature sensor in the sandwich plate.
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The base plates are exactly the same other than how the gaskets are held on. They even have the same numbers and letters stamped into them.
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Both bypass valves look the same. I'd be surprised if they had different spring tensions.

Honda is on the left.
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Both anti-drainback valves are made by Parker and, at first glance, they appear to be the same. However, the Honda is significantly thinner.

Honda is on the left.
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Honda is on top.
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I cut some pieces out of the anti-drainback valves and used a cheap pair of digital calipers to measure their thickness.

Honda
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FRAM
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Unlike the FRAM, the Honda filter uses a P-gasket on the base plate.

Honda is on top.
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Hopefully this post isn't too picture heavy. I might have gone a bit overboard...
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Good thread. Interesting that everything is the same except the media and the ADV. I wonder if the different media on the Fram forced the change in the ADV thickness? Maybe a expert will chime in.

Honda's use of a P gasket must be a Japanese thing? I like them myself and all the Japanese OEM filters were cellophane sealed with pre-lubed gaskets which added a nice touch. My research into crossovers is leaning me towards the Honda so this thread is relevant for me.

Again, thanks for posting HX520W.
 
HX520W ... nice post.

I seems the Fram built Honda filters have always had thicker and less flexible non-metal end caps then the Fram branded filters. If so, Fram should use the same end caps on their EG and TG filters (Motorking, are you reading this?).
 
I like the gasket on the Honda filters better. Same gasket that's on my Japanese made Nissan OEM's. I'd think they would seal better than the common flat type gaskets.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
I seems the Fram built Honda filters have always had thicker and less flexible non-metal end caps then the Fram branded filters. If so, Fram should use the same end caps on their EG and TG filters (Motorking, are you reading this?).


This.

Much thicker and heavier.
 
Thank you so much for this post! Since buying an Accord coupe,I love seeing this Honda filter post since that's the filter I use.
 
Great info. I am running both of these exact filters currently and it's good to know I can get nearly the same quality for less money when buying in bulk online from a Honda dealer.
 
Good pics. Parker adbvs made by division of Parker Hannifin which provides Wix/Napa Gold silicone adbvs too. And just recently purchased Clarcor Filtration which makes Baldwin and Hastings filters.

I too prefer the relatively thicker fiber endcap of the A02, made to Honda specs.

Comparing the tested efficiency data point of the A02 to the FU rated efficiency, would put them at two ends of the spectrum, fwiw.
 
Thanks for all the kind words.

I was thinking about the two different gasket types on these filters. Could many Japanese car manufacturer's filters use P-gaskets instead of square cut gaskets to lower the risk of the gasket pulling off of the filter and sticking to the engine block during removal? Unlike a square cut gasket, a P-gasket is "locked in" under a flange on the base plate.
 
Originally Posted By: HX520W
Thanks for all the kind words.

I was thinking about the two different gasket types on these filters. Could many Japanese car manufacturer's filters use P-gaskets instead of square cut gaskets to lower the risk of the gasket pulling off of the filter and sticking to the engine block during removal? Unlike a square cut gasket, a P-gasket is "locked in" under a flange on the base plate.


That could be one reason, but typically the P-gasket design is also known as the "torque stop" type gasket which means when the can bottoms out on the filter seat then the filter is fully tight and the gasket fully compressed and captured. Only thing I don't like about the design is the lip of the can makes contact with the filter seat and can mar up the surface a bit.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4052708/Oil_Filter_Gasket_Types
 
Originally Posted By: HX520W
... Unlike a square cut gasket, a P-gasket is "locked in" under a flange on the base plate.

True. As an aside though, only filter gasket I ever had a failure with was a Toyota dealer Fast/Quick Lane installed Toyota Denso with a P type gasket. After some use, not much, it just started leaking oil on garage floor. I tried to tighten it some but it didn't help. Took it back, guy in charge of the operation said gasket was defective, iirc might have even said something about a recall. Took that explanation all with a grain of salt. Could have been installer error, perhaps over tightening but IDK. Second one worked fine.

IME and IMO, I don't see a huge advantage one way or the other. If one lubes the gasket, tightens as recommended and checks that gasket still attached to filter on removal, flat gasket works fine.

Every time I see the poster and now with a cousin or twin apparently, post the one word DENSO answer, reminds me of that filter experience.
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If the Fram's with Non metal end caps came out looking like that on my vehicles, I would feel a lot better about using them....

I have about 1k miles and 1.5 months on an orange can and I almost want to cut it open to see what it looks like, the last TG I used on our Sienna looked terrible.
 
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