Can I run dex6 in my th400.

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I have a few questions relating to the photos below. I the first photo is the springs i removed from the forward drum. 8 of the springs on the right are short and 4 springs on the left are tall. Arent they all supposed to be the same height?

Different piston styles can have different height springs (Stamped vs Aluminum), Your trans having both styles tells me either the Forward Drum or Direct Drum was replaced at one time & that is when the springs got mixed up

Now in the atsg manual it says to place 14 springs into the spring pockets. Now i only have 12 of the tall springs and 12 of the short springs. clinebarger i thought you said i should put 16 springs onto all 16 pockets instead of just 14? Because i bought a new direct drum with the springs i only need to use the springs i have for the forward drum. Should i use all the tall springs and then use a few short ones or should i use all the short springs and fill in the extra spaces with a few tall ones on the forward drum.

Stagger the long & short springs, You can use 16 or 14....On the Forward clutch you would never notice either way. Factory upper end TH400's had 16 springs in both drums(Cadillac, Jaguar, Rolls Royce)



Finally i took the clutches out of the direct drum. What is that black ring on half of the clutch surface? The forward drum clutches did not have that ring.

The frictions were slipping & getting hot, Your broken piston could have caused that, That's a good illustration of how the "Work Surface" of the piston is directly responsible for the effective Friction Surface of the clutch pack.
If you were to put one of those frictions over the Apply Ring on your old steel piston, The black/burnt ring would be centered over the Apply Ring.

The Forwards are not a "shifting" clutch pack, They're not responsible for absorbing much energy.....Stopping or accelerating a heavy drum against a heavy truck/engine torque, They have the easiest job of any friction in the unit....Connecting the Input Shaft to The Main Shaft with the engine idling & the vehicle stationary


Blue= short spring, Red= long spring, Use 2 short springs in the blanks if using the full 16.
 
Cool thanks. Good idea on the springs. What is your opinion on flat vs waved steels? What are the benefits and cons?
 
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The rate was found by placing the entire pack on a bathroom scale in a hydraulic press, adding a small amount of load, measuring the distance and recording the force, and repeating with a higher load. The total calculated rate was then divided by the number of springs.

Code:


Wire Free Individual

Spring Dia. Length Rate

OEM 0.045" 0.925" 26.9 lb/in

CK 0.040" 0.995" 19.0 lb/in

You raise a good point by mentioning installed length of the springs. I had not yet checked how that would effect things since the CK springs are longer than the OEMs. I suspect that is the thing that makes the difference. I will check!

I do have the sturdy TH400 retainer to use.
 
Originally Posted By: JiL
The rate was found by placing the entire pack on a bathroom scale in a hydraulic press, adding a small amount of load, measuring the distance and recording the force, and repeating with a higher load. The total calculated rate was then divided by the number of springs.

Code:


Wire Free Individual

Spring Dia. Length Rate

OEM 0.045" 0.925" 26.9 lb/in

CK 0.040" 0.995" 19.0 lb/in

You raise a good point by mentioning installed length of the springs. I had not yet checked how that would effect things since the CK springs are longer than the OEMs. I suspect that is the thing that makes the difference. I will check!

I do have the sturdy TH400 retainer to use.
the bathroom scale was a good idea.
 
If my measurements and calculations are correct. . .

Code:


Installed

Retainer Height

OEM 0.722"

TH400 0.680"





Total Spring Preload:

OEM TH400

Spring Retainer Retainer

OEM 65.5 lb 79.0 lb

CK 62.3 lb 71.9 lb

The thicker TH400 retainer reduces the installed height by 0.042" which increases preload.

The CK springs combined with the TH400 retainer would have a higher preload than the OEM springs and retainer. (71.9 lb vs. 65.5 lb)
 
Originally Posted By: JiL
If my measurements and calculations are correct. . .

Code:


Installed

Retainer Height

OEM 0.722"

TH400 0.680"





Total Spring Preload:

OEM TH400

Spring Retainer Retainer

OEM 65.5 lb 79.0 lb

CK 62.3 lb 71.9 lb

The thicker TH400 retainer reduces the installed height by 0.042" which increases preload.

The CK springs combined with the TH400 retainer would have a higher preload than the OEM springs and retainer. (71.9 lb vs. 65.5 lb)


Thanks for the update! When I get the time I will investigate this some more, I will still have to recommend the CK springs for the time being as I don't know if the OE springs will run into coil bind with a TH400 retainer. With clutch wear & the wave plate.....Clutch piston travel can get over .150" Though I would never set one of mine that loose to begin with, Some folks don't have resources to correct/adjust Intermediate clutch clearance.

The CK springs were developed for the TH400 as some used as little as 3 springs for Intermediate piston return.
 
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Cool thanks. Good idea on the springs. What is your opinion on flat vs waved steels? What are the benefits and cons?


Many builders eliminate Wave Plates as a fast & easy way to firm-up shifts, But this alone does nothing to increase the clamping force or torque capacity of the clutch pack, Without them.....More shock will be placed on the Transfer Case, U-joints, & differential with no benefit to the transmission.


They are absolutely essential to my build techniques, On a TH400 in a 3/4 ton 4x4 I recommend....

Forward Clutch.
Wave against piston, Flat Steel, Friction, Flat Steel etc...If you don't have room for the flat steel on top the Wave, Place the first Friction directly on top of the Wave. Set clearance to .030"-.050"

Intermediate Clutch.
Wave against piston, Friction, Steel, Friction, Steel, Friction, Backing Plate. Set Clearance to .040-.065". Drill 2nd Clutch Orifice to .093".

Direct Clutch.
Since your using a 4L80E drum......DO NOT use the 4L80E Wave! They can & do break & lodge under the relief cut in the drum!
TH400 Wave against piston, Flat Steel, Friction, Flat Steel, Friction, etc., Set clearance to .050"-.060".
Using paper frictions....Drill 3rd Clutch orifice to .093".
Using High Energy Graphite (4L80E) frictions....Drill 3rd Clutch orifice to .099"
 
What does drilling those orifices do? Also how do i go about installing the steel plates in the clutch pack? I know they drop in but im wondering why the steels have a different teeth pattern in certain spots. See pic below
Should i line up all the steels on top of eachother like in the picture above or should i stagger that flat spot like in the picture below?
 
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Also what about the race for the sprag on the 4l80e drum i bought. I noticed the on the th400 that the roller clutch race is slightly shorter than the sprag race from the 4l80e. I tested and the th400 roller clutch race will work with the sprag on the 4l80e drum. Should i use the th400 race or the 4l803 race on the 4l80e drum?
 
Why do you think my direct drum piston broke? Is it just a common defect or did the pressure spike and blow the piston apart? If it is a pressure issue how can i keep the pressure from spiking again?
 
The orifices I speak of are the feed holes to the clutch packs in the Separator Plate....Do you need locations?

The notches are for ID purposes, The one's with the flat notch are .090" Direct Steels.
I've always lined the steels up, That's how they are from the factory. Keep in mind the Forward Steels are @ .077" thick, The Direct Steels are @ .090" thick, They can be mixed & matched to adjust clutch clearance.

The 4L80E Sprag Race is taller because 4L80E's use 4 Intermediate Frictions vs 3 on a TH400.
DO NOT install a TH400 race on a 4L80E Drum!! The Taller Race & Retainer will fit your TH400 with no issues.

TH400's don't have the pressure issues that the early 4L80E's had, Those stamped steel pistons break quite frequently. If you had Lip Seals blowing out....Then I would be concerned about a pressure issue.
 
So what exactly does it do if i enlarge the feed holes to the clutch packs? Are the stock size holes inadequate? Also i broke one of the races for one of the thrust bearings. The race was bent (i didnt bend it) and i was trying to flatten it with a hammer and the race broke. I tries to find just one new thrust bearing but it looks like i have to buy a set of three. Do you know where i can purchase just one? Maybe visit my local trans shop.
 
Originally Posted By: joegreen
So what exactly does it do if i enlarge the feed holes to the clutch packs? Are the stock size holes inadequate? Also i broke one of the races for one of the thrust bearings. The race was bent (i didnt bend it) and i was trying to flatten it with a hammer and the race broke. I tries to find just one new thrust bearing but it looks like i have to buy a set of three. Do you know where i can purchase just one? Maybe visit my local trans shop.


It provides quicker & a little firmer shifts, I would need to know the orifice sizes on your plate to say if they are inadequate or not. You did end up dual feeding the Direct Clutch?

I'm not sure if the bearings are sold individually, They used to be because GM sold everything individually, If you did it will cost $15, Where a set cost a little over $20.

The geartrain bearings are the same as 4L80E's, So a transmission shop should have them laying around.
Here's a set of Delco's for $24..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-4L80E-Torr...t-/142101912310


Feed Hole locations.
 
Ill measure my feed holes. I did not dual feed the direct drum because i thought it wouldn't be necessary and i dont have high return rate springs.

You said

"During full throttle 3-1 & 3-2 automatic/forced downshifts, The direct piston return springs are not strong enough to return the piston in a timely manner because it's trying evacuate 200% more ATF than the circuit was designed to evacuate, Over time this WILL distress the direct frictions.
I HIGHLY recommend "High Rate" return springs in any dual feed hydramatic transmission..... Return Springs

For high RPM use (Above 5500), A .030" bleed hole is required at the edge of the direct drum to prevent "centrifugal apply" of the direct clutches it 1st gear when the direct drum is overruning at over 80% of input RPM, This is probably not a concern for you.

Dual Feeding the directs is a fantastic modification.......On rigs making north of 450 horsepower!! I rarely do this mod on a heavy duty unit, It is just not warranted."
 
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
Ill measure my feed holes. I did not dual feed the direct drum because i thought it wouldn't be necessary and i dont have high return rate springs.

You said

"During full throttle 3-1 & 3-2 automatic/forced downshifts, The direct piston return springs are not strong enough to return the piston in a timely manner because it's trying evacuate 200% more ATF than the circuit was designed to evacuate, Over time this WILL distress the direct frictions.
I HIGHLY recommend "High Rate" return springs in any dual feed hydramatic transmission..... Return Springs

For high RPM use (Above 5500), A .030" bleed hole is required at the edge of the direct drum to prevent "centrifugal apply" of the direct clutches it 1st gear when the direct drum is overruning at over 80% of input RPM, This is probably not a concern for you.

Dual Feeding the directs is a fantastic modification.......On rigs making north of 450 horsepower!! I rarely do this mod on a heavy duty unit, It is just not warranted."


Just checking.....Dual Fed mod requires a little more volume through the plate, The 3rd orifice size I stated is for a stock unit (Non-Dual Fed).
 
I bought that set of bearings. I also bought a hd snap ring for the intermediate clutch pack from ck performance.
 
I just noticed that ck performance also sells a spiroloc snap ring for the intermediate clutches. That seems like it would be better than the HD snap ring because its solid 360 degrees around. Do you have any recommendations on the HD snap ring vs spiroloc snap ring?
 
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
I just noticed that ck performance also sells a spiroloc snap ring for the intermediate clutches. That seems like it would be better than the HD snap ring because its solid 360 degrees around. Do you have any recommendations on the HD snap ring vs spiroloc snap ring?


The HD snap ring is a fine piece & what I'm running in my personal 4L80E. If you look down the barrel of your case you will note that the Case Lugs do not cover 360 degrees. I have never had the case lugs blow out when using a HD Snap Ring OR had a HD Snap Ring blow out of the case lugs.

Now, I have had the Intermediate Pressure Plate break in fixed line pressure trans brake TH400's used in competition. This is where a spiroloc Snap Ring can help.....But you have to add a support bracket, Bolted down where the Intermediate Brake Band Anchor is. This give support at the 9-O'Clock position where there are no lugs. (Trans Brake unit do not use the front band, I knock out the Anchor & use a through bolt for the L-Bracket)

The Spiroloc is FAR easier to install & remove.....That is about the only advantage on your particular build over the HD.


I would post pictures, But I'm kinda lost since the photobucket fiasco.
 
Yeah the photobucket thing is pretty annoying. I spend most of my time online on vehicle forums and so many pictures in great tech articles or diy writeups are not showing unless you open them from photobucket.
 
I am thinking about rollzerizing the rear so i bought this from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-4L80E-Rear-Thrust-Bearing-Kit-Thrust-Plate-Washer-Eliminator-/141923630914?hash=item210b4ebf42:g:254AAOSwuAVWvdaV&vxp=mtr
 
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