Is this steelie wheel repairable? Pics

Status
Not open for further replies.
edwardh1 said:
get a used one from junk yard , else you will be driving cracked junk at 80 mph on interstate [/quot

This is what I'd do.
It may be repairable, but IMO, it isn't worth the risk.
 
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Definitely repairable. Hit it with a torch and then quench it in hot oil when alls said and done.


Oil quenching of this is neither needed nor desired. It will only make the metal even more brittle than working it cold. I refer back to my previous post for concerns about making the wheel more brittle than it was.

If you're going to work the metal either do it cold, or if you do it with heat allow the material to air cool to prevent embrittlement of the base material through rapid cooling (quenching).
Thanks for your informed and erudite response. My amended recommendation is to take the tire off, cold work the wheel to make it true, heat it up to incandescence and let it sit and air cool. Then repaint it and motor along. (and thanks for your service to our nation)


That sounds a bit non-trivial, especially that "heat to incandescence" thing, depending on what kit you have to hand.

Scrappie.

If you really want to heat it up, keep the bent wheel as a charcoal BBQ stove.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ejes
If you have a full size spare that uses the same wheel, I'd fix it and swap them out and use the repaired one for the spare.


Me too.
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Definitely repairable. Hit it with a torch and then quench it in hot oil when alls said and done.


Oil quenching of this is neither needed nor desired. It will only make the metal even more brittle than working it cold. I refer back to my previous post for concerns about making the wheel more brittle than it was.

If you're going to work the metal either do it cold, or if you do it with heat allow the material to air cool to prevent embrittlement of the base material through rapid cooling (quenching).
I was suggesting cold working it, and then heating it up and stress relieving with the quench with the gentle hot oil process. You disagree? Okay


The quenching is the part I disagreed with, both from an engineering and metallurgical standpoint both of which I'm trained in. Additionally as a trained aviation mishap investigator I've dedicated a lot of time and energy to understanding failure modes and post failure analysis.

Your understanding of quenching as a means to stress relieve a part is flawed. Quenching a part is actually the polar opposite of stress relieving the part which is generally accomplished by tempering a part.
You caught me before my edit. Yeah, I was way off.
frown.gif
 
During my time in tire shops we ran across many steel rims like this. We always bent them back and never had a problem.

That's assuming it's just the lip. If the entire wheel is tweaked, then it's junkyard time.
 
If it's just the bead area, it can be both bent back into shape AND safe.

If it were mine, I'd fix it take the spare tyre advice...

The process of making steel wheels involves massive plastic deformation of low alloy steels, and not a skerrick of heat treatment anywhere.



Cast wheels I wouldn't dream of doing anything with.

But that's just the mechanical engineer in me...
 
Originally Posted By: ejes
If you have a full size spare that uses the same wheel, I'd fix it and swap them out and use the repaired one for the spare.


I would do that.
 
I'd use some soapy water and check to see if it leaks at all. If not i'd clean it and whack it with a BFH , 4 pound handheld to a 16lb sledge.

Recheck with soapy water for leaks afterward.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Assuming like other steelies, I could find a good used one for $20, I'd probably replace it. I might try to fix it in a pinch until I had a good replacement to run.


Yeah, no need to try and fix when steelies are easy to find.
 
But then you have to pay another $20 to remount your tire so $20 turns into $40. Just give 'er some. When you think you're done, stick it on a freewheeling hub and spin it to see how straight you got it.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow

The process of making steel wheels involves massive plastic deformation of low alloy steels, and not a skerrick of heat treatment anywhere.


Had to look that one up!
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Driz
Waste of time that's a standard OEM wheel and nothing special to begin with. $20 in a junkyard. You've got better things to do with your life than hop down the road cursing that tire you wasted an hour trying to fix..


A few whacks vs spending time calling junkyards, dealing with the grumpy old types that run them and driving out there?



guess you have not heard of this website before...no calling, just search the yards from behind your keyboard.
http://www.car-part.com/
 
Originally Posted By: ejes
If you have a full size spare that uses the same wheel, I'd fix it and swap them out and use the repaired one for the spare.


I think this is good short term advice, but I'd still be looking for a cheap used wheel to replace the repaired one for the spare...just wouldn't be in a big rush about it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top