Best Impact Gun for removing rusted bolts

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I know a few people who have the 1/2'' drive harbor freight electric impacts. They seem to work good for what they are (low rated capacity).


I have the 3/4" drive HF electric impact.
It's absolutely WONDERFUL!

I use a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter on it 90% of the time.
 
First start with this..

https://www.harborfreight.com/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61454.html

Then one of these..

http://www.tooltopia.com/chicago-pneumat...AyABEgJDxPD_BwE

The HF compressor isn't the best but it will run this little gun fine and it has an oiled pump so it should last. The CP is a good little gun with enough power to get most jobs done, it wont break crank bolts loose but for brakes, struts, and most under the car work it is great.

I use my small one more than any other gun, its light and small so its getting into all sorts of places where no battery powered one is fitting,I tried the large battery one (IR7150) and got rid of it quick.
The only plus point was it was portable but the negatives are its size, weight, did I say size? I do use smaller 1/4 and 3/8 ones for a lot of things and like them but they don't have the power of the mini air gun.
For about $300 you can get a lot more use out of this setup than a single battery operated tool. The 20 gal can run an air ratchet, small paint touch up gun, blow gun, etc. The only thing I would add is Milton V fittings.
 
Excellent suggestions in here, thanks!

I don't really want to get a new compressor if the one I have still works. I think it's actually a 15 gallon. Looks exactly like this:
14890912.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
That will run the mini air gun okay. Just get Milton V fittings and use a 25ft or less 3/8 hose.

Trav stole my thunder.

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to replace the current fittings with hi-flow fittings. And I mean ALL the fittings, including the quick releases (ESPECIALLY the quick releases), including the one on the tank itself.

Case in point, in one shop I have a 10gal tank and 110V pump. (The owner's manual was lost somewhere around WWII, so I have no more specs than that). I brought over my IR 650ft-lb air gun and it was a total wimp, even on setting 5. Couldn't even remove SUV lug nuts. After much fiddling around, found out it was ALL the female quick releases bottling the system up. I put on Guard Air High Flows (but Milton V are fine).

Now it spins off pickup truck lugnuts (torque spec 105ft-lbs, more after sitting a while) in one hit on setting 1 out of 5. I use less total air because I don't sit there hammering uselessly. If I am very careful with trigger control, I can spin off all 4 wheel's nuts before the compressor turns on again.

Also, since your tank is getting older, see if you can drain any excess water inside.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Trav
That will run the mini air gun okay. Just get Milton V fittings and use a 25ft or less 3/8 hose.

Trav stole my thunder.

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to replace the current fittings with hi-flow fittings. And I mean ALL the fittings, including the quick releases (ESPECIALLY the quick releases), including the one on the tank itself.

Case in point, in one shop I have a 10gal tank and 110V pump. (The owner's manual was lost somewhere around WWII, so I have no more specs than that). I brought over my IR 650ft-lb air gun and it was a total wimp, even on setting 5. Couldn't even remove SUV lug nuts. After much fiddling around, found out it was ALL the female quick releases bottling the system up. I put on Guard Air High Flows (but Milton V are fine).

Now it spins off pickup truck lugnuts (torque spec 105ft-lbs, more after sitting a while) in one hit on setting 1 out of 5. I use less total air because I don't sit there hammering uselessly. If I am very careful with trigger control, I can spin off all 4 wheel's nuts before the compressor turns on again.

Also, since your tank is getting older, see if you can drain any excess water inside.


Great advice from both of you. Trav turned me onto those fittings a few years ago and I was amazed at the difference they make, which is why I echoed his comments. I have those fittings on all my air tools, and a 60 gallon and 15 gallon air compressor. They made an old Blue Point air gun work like a champ for removing lug nuts. Prior to the fitting change the tool was just OK, and struggled with them.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Trav
That will run the mini air gun okay. Just get Milton V fittings and use a 25ft or less 3/8 hose.

Trav stole my thunder.

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to replace the current fittings with hi-flow fittings. And I mean ALL the fittings, including the quick releases (ESPECIALLY the quick releases), including the one on the tank itself.

Case in point, in one shop I have a 10gal tank and 110V pump. (The owner's manual was lost somewhere around WWII, so I have no more specs than that). I brought over my IR 650ft-lb air gun and it was a total wimp, even on setting 5. Couldn't even remove SUV lug nuts. After much fiddling around, found out it was ALL the female quick releases bottling the system up. I put on Guard Air High Flows (but Milton V are fine).

Now it spins off pickup truck lugnuts (torque spec 105ft-lbs, more after sitting a while) in one hit on setting 1 out of 5. I use less total air because I don't sit there hammering uselessly. If I am very careful with trigger control, I can spin off all 4 wheel's nuts before the compressor turns on again.

Also, since your tank is getting older, see if you can drain any excess water inside.


Great advice from both of you. Trav turned me onto those fittings a few years ago and I was amazed at the difference they make, which is why I echoed his comments. I have those fittings on all my air tools, and a 60 gallon and 15 gallon air compressor. They made an old Blue Point air gun work like a champ for removing lug nuts. Prior to the fitting change the tool was just OK, and struggled with them.


Are these the fittings being discussed here?
Northern Tools Milton V-Style Hi-Flo Coupler
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Most 3/8 air hoses use 1/4" fittings. Try this place..

https://www.toolsource.com/air-couplers-...qdfcmtq41an2uf4

https://www.toolsource.com/air-couplers-...qdfcmtq41an2uf4

I use the steel fittings.

https://www.toolsource.com/air-couplers-...qdfcmtq41an2uf4

https://www.toolsource.com/air-couplers-...qdfcmtq41an2uf4


Awesome! Might have to get a set of these for when I want to run my little air compressor. I don't use air very much, but when I do, there's a considerable amount of leaks at the couplers.

Slightly off topic, but do you guys have a water/air separator suggestion?
 
I refitted all my air filters with NOS Norgren stuff. Really high quality stuff not HF quality and cheap. Here is an example of one..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norgren-Excelon-F73G-2AN-DM1-Filter-5-Micron-new-/400989969154?epid=1209256304&hash=item5d5cdd5b02:m:mnH7hY8ObBG7lppJ7cuMAmQ

From this page..

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=no...er&_sacat=0

I then Google search the model number. Norgren Excelon F73G-2AN-DM1 to get the pdf for all the info. You need to make sure you get NPT (PTF) and not G (iso) threads unless you want to buy adapters.

https://www.imi-precision.com/us/en/detail/f73g-2an-qd3/excelon-f73g-series-general-purpose-filter-1-4-ptf-ports-40-%C2%B5m-manual-drain-metal-bowl-with-liquid-level-indicator

https://d25g25bk48as5o.cloudfront.net/pdf/Excelon%20General%20Purpose%20Filters_F72,%2073,%2074.pdf

As you can see the little bit of digging is well worth it, you get a thigh quality brand new 1/4" 5 micron unit for $25 inc shipping instead of $65+ shipping.

I did the same thing with Norgren pressure regulators, coalescing filters all 3/4"-1" and got over $1500 worth for under $200 all new in box with papers. I also did it with Festo regulators (very high end) for the smaller stuff and get the same sort of deals.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Nor...rs&_sacat=0

I build a 1" copper supply system with 4x 3/4 drops and a high end breathing system with dryer all brand new high quality for under $600 inc pipe all in. The system retail would be over $3500.
 
That HF compressor is not so good. If I was going to buy something to use for 10 years I'd pay double for this one
https://www.harborfreight.com/29-gal-2-hp-150-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61489.html
also at 150psi it holds alot more usable air.. and you dont have to worry about the restriction/pressure loss from the fittings as much.


However that compressor you have looks somewhat adequate as long as you dont mind waiting.

Most impacts can use upto 15cfm.. you will see them rated at 5cfm but thats just nonsense with duty cycle etc.

If you find yourself using it alot maybe even snag a clearance 60gal model.. they had a 11cfm 60gal husky for about $300 recently. Then you can run all kinds of air tools almost continuously.. (well at least compared to your current compressor)
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
That HF compressor is not so good. If I was going to buy something to use for 10 years I'd pay double for this one
https://www.harborfreight.com/29-gal-2-hp-150-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61489.html
also at 150psi it holds alot more usable air.. and you dont have to worry about the restriction/pressure loss from the fittings as much.


However that compressor you have looks somewhat adequate as long as you dont mind waiting.

Most impacts can use upto 15cfm.. you will see them rated at 5cfm but thats just nonsense with duty cycle etc.

If you find yourself using it alot maybe even snag a clearance 60gal model.. they had a 11cfm 60gal husky for about $300 recently. Then you can run all kinds of air tools almost continuously.. (well at least compared to your current compressor)


You really need 2 stage to get to usable 150 psi.
 
Agreed, but they can get very expensive and really unless you want to run multiple air tools at the same time a 60 gal single is fine for most things anyone in a home garage will probably ever need. Impacts and ratchets don't run on 100% duty cycle like a paint spray guns, breathing equipment DA sander, buffer, or grinder.

With those tools even an undercoating gun can be worked around by just doing an are and letting the compressor catch up, you cant do that with a large paint gun or breather for those two big CFM is an absolute must, small touch up guns not included they will work fine.
 
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck


He's currently my favourite youtuber...todays was pulling apart a snapon versus the eathquake, head to head so to speak. Found that a few feet of hose made a BIG difference.

He's got some great videos on air fittings, and modifying them to get better flow...

As to the OP's air volume, there was a guy in town who did garage spray work...he ran a large diameter air "pipe" from the compressor, along the side wall, back wall, side wall, then up one pitch and back again...and again. He was getting around the requirement to register an air reciever by making a horridly long large diameter "pipe" that stored enough air to get his job done.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Don't rule out cordless tools like a Milwaukee M18 Fuel high torque impact. It has specs that match the high end pneumatic impact wrenches.


I saw that, those look very nice. For 1000+ ft lbs of torque under $ 150 though, the HF gun won my vote. I actually paid even less.
 
Depending upon what kind of other electric tools you have, I'd look at the brushless electrics. Makita, dewalt and Milwaukee all have them and they're within a few lb-ft. Snap on and IR also have them, but you probably don't have household tools from them.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Don't rule out cordless tools like a Milwaukee M18 Fuel high torque impact. It has specs that match the high end pneumatic impact wrenches.


These cordless tools all use (AFAIK) pin clutch or double clutch hammer mechanisms, this is really the least desirable large impact tool you want to use on automotive applications. Yes they make the torque but only because of this type mechanism which attains its max torque quickly with much less user control available than with a twin hammer mechanism.

If you use it in industrial application the use large diameter buts and bolts like on bridges or large lag bolts the clutch type is perfect. We all know an electric motor small enough to fit in a small hand held unit cannot produce the torque of a 90-120psi 5-7 vane air motor but it can with these mechanisms with consequences. Put the same clutch mechanism on a powerful air motor and you really have a tiger by the tail.

Forget things like nut busting torque, its a totally meaningless sales pitch measurement. Working torque is also a little deceptive it measures how much torque the tool can make after 15 seconds, dynamic torque is what you want to loosen bolts and the M18 fuel is less than 450 ft.lb. This video is very good, don't get too exited when the M18 has better number at first, keep watching.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

JHZR2
Value proposition of manual impact versus gun
2
Replies
25
Views
831
D60
G
Looking for new air impact wrench
2 3
Replies
47
Views
2K
JHZR2
S
Impact wrench and air compressor
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
3K
2strokeNorthstar
The Critic
Using Impact Sockets only for 3/8” and 1/2” dr
Replies
10
Views
733
Trav
JHZR2
Over-oiling air tools
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
demarpaint
Back
Top