Just purchased a 2006 fz1 today. I want to change the oil tomorrow as I don't know when it was last done. What oil would you guys recommend? Manual says anything from 10/40, 20/40 or 20/50. I live in upstate New york. Bike will be driven frequently, I don't beat on my vehicles but it will get some spirited driving here and there but not an every day thing. What oil and weight would you recommend? I was thinking yamalube just because it's yamaha lol. But let me know thanks!
Oil recommendations for 2006 fz1
- Thread starter 02s4audi
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I'd use Yamalube. I've owned a few motorcycles over the years and the best oil I've used in regards to shift quality is the long discontinued
Yamalube 20W40. I'd use 10W40 for your riding style.
Yamalube 20W40. I'd use 10W40 for your riding style.
pick anything that makes you happy
making you happy may include:
price
shift quality
miles oil will go - with shift quality you like
making you happy may include:
price
shift quality
miles oil will go - with shift quality you like
I want something that can handle some miles, shifts smooth from start to a while down the road and doesn't start shifting terribly after 1k miles and doesn't shear out too quickly. This is my first bike I've owned (not first ridden by far) so I'm not too familiar with what people use and have good results with. I don't want to have to spend a fortune on oil. I see a lot of people like t6 and it's inexpensive. Dyusik, what do you mean your bike shreds t6? I have yamaha dealers around that have yamalube so that's available, Mobil 1 racing 4t, rotella. There's a place that sells amsoil but doesn't stock it. Also what filter do you guys recommend? It has the k&n on there now id probably just fun those
My old 454Ltd was by far the quietest on 20w50
It lasted the longest before the timing chain would start to clatter
It lasted the longest before the timing chain would start to clatter
well since i doubt you will ride in the winter
valvoline vr1 20w50
valvoline vr1 20w50
Most wet clutch bikes (except Goldwings and some others) tend to 'shred' oil by reducing its viscosity numbers with use. So a 40 weight oil may end up 30 or 20 by the time you do an oil change at 2k or 3k miles.
Some oils shred sooner than others.. and it just depends on a lot of variables.
If you browse the motorcycle UOA section here, most comments seem to be regarding grade shear.
Some oils shred sooner than others.. and it just depends on a lot of variables.
If you browse the motorcycle UOA section here, most comments seem to be regarding grade shear.
Is there a relatively inexpensive oil that would fit my application and not shear too badly? I was pretty set on t6 as it's so common and cheap. But if I have to change it every 1k because it's sheared and starts getting clunky I would rather go a different route
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
Is there a relatively inexpensive oil that would fit my application and not shear too badly? I was pretty set on t6 as it's so common and cheap. But if I have to change it every 1k because it's sheared and starts getting clunky I would rather go a different route
You can try Rotella T4 or T5 in 15W-40. Or any of the other 15W-40 diesel oils (like Delo), as they're generally pretty stout and do well in liquid cooled multis.
For a little more $$ you could try the Valvoline motorcycle oils which in my experience keep the shifts smooth for their OCI's, and if you're feeling brave and are not a monogradeophobe, VR1 is available in monogrades which don't shear at all.
Is there a relatively inexpensive oil that would fit my application and not shear too badly? I was pretty set on t6 as it's so common and cheap. But if I have to change it every 1k because it's sheared and starts getting clunky I would rather go a different route
You can try Rotella T4 or T5 in 15W-40. Or any of the other 15W-40 diesel oils (like Delo), as they're generally pretty stout and do well in liquid cooled multis.
For a little more $$ you could try the Valvoline motorcycle oils which in my experience keep the shifts smooth for their OCI's, and if you're feeling brave and are not a monogradeophobe, VR1 is available in monogrades which don't shear at all.
Shift quality is what I go by, HDEO ten retention is far beyond anything considering what shared sump bike does to the oil.
7317 is what I suggest, it is within spec. And oversized. And a gram ultra
Just pick up some non gas ck4 or any cj/ci oil in a 15w40 and forget the rest.
7317 is what I suggest, it is within spec. And oversized. And a gram ultra
Just pick up some non gas ck4 or any cj/ci oil in a 15w40 and forget the rest.
Sunruh already recommended VR1 20W50.
Nobody needs 5w in a motorcycle. If you choose Rotella, make it the 15w40 with the JASO MA rating.
Nobody needs 5w in a motorcycle. If you choose Rotella, make it the 15w40 with the JASO MA rating.
Originally Posted By: 02s4audi
Just purchased a 2006 fz1 today. I want to change the oil tomorrow as I don't know when it was last done. What oil would you guys recommend? Manual says anything from 10/40, 20/40 or 20/50. I live in upstate New york. Bike will be driven frequently, I don't beat on my vehicles but it will get some spirited driving here and there but not an every day thing. What oil and weight would you recommend? I was thinking yamalube just because it's yamaha lol. But let me know thanks!
I have a Gen II FZ1 as well and they're amazing motorcycles; with routine maintenance they're a 100K mile motor no problem. I run mine on the street and also work for a track organization as well and have used a variety of oils. If you're looking for the best bang for the buck either Shell Rotella 15W40 or Valvoline conventional motorcycle 10W40 works well. I've also used Yamalube's full synthetic 15W50, but the price is significantly higher.
Just purchased a 2006 fz1 today. I want to change the oil tomorrow as I don't know when it was last done. What oil would you guys recommend? Manual says anything from 10/40, 20/40 or 20/50. I live in upstate New york. Bike will be driven frequently, I don't beat on my vehicles but it will get some spirited driving here and there but not an every day thing. What oil and weight would you recommend? I was thinking yamalube just because it's yamaha lol. But let me know thanks!
I have a Gen II FZ1 as well and they're amazing motorcycles; with routine maintenance they're a 100K mile motor no problem. I run mine on the street and also work for a track organization as well and have used a variety of oils. If you're looking for the best bang for the buck either Shell Rotella 15W40 or Valvoline conventional motorcycle 10W40 works well. I've also used Yamalube's full synthetic 15W50, but the price is significantly higher.
For those who speculate oil brand / version somehow differs in shifting quality..
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequential_manual_transmission
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crqERCE2Fv0&feature=youtu.be&t=41s
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sequential_manual_transmission
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crqERCE2Fv0&feature=youtu.be&t=41s
Originally Posted By: Ellipsis
For those who speculate oil brand / version somehow differs in shifting quality..
My transmission in my YXZ is indescribably better when running a thicker oil. It is MUCH easier to do clutchless shifts with said oil.
The yamalube 15w50 just made it to 1400 miles before I noticed a degradation of shift quality. It required much more finesse to clutch and slot the gear in without have deceleration or a "clunk" take place.
I should add, that is a full 800 miles more than the rotella lasted.
For those who speculate oil brand / version somehow differs in shifting quality..
My transmission in my YXZ is indescribably better when running a thicker oil. It is MUCH easier to do clutchless shifts with said oil.
The yamalube 15w50 just made it to 1400 miles before I noticed a degradation of shift quality. It required much more finesse to clutch and slot the gear in without have deceleration or a "clunk" take place.
I should add, that is a full 800 miles more than the rotella lasted.
ah but how much more $$$ did those 800 miles cost?
break it down to miles per dollar and tell me which is better
break it down to miles per dollar and tell me which is better
9 bucks a quart vs 5.
Given it holds 1.5 quarts but takes a full hour to change...if not more... Worth it.
Given it holds 1.5 quarts but takes a full hour to change...if not more... Worth it.
yes when it the change time is factored in the price per quart and a small amount can make a huge difference.
if it was merely dropping a ph8 and 5qts in my mustang that can be done as fast as you can spin and pour...the $ per qt more comes into play...at 1hr per change...not as much fun
that certainly is 1 factor most dont take into consideration
if it was merely dropping a ph8 and 5qts in my mustang that can be done as fast as you can spin and pour...the $ per qt more comes into play...at 1hr per change...not as much fun
that certainly is 1 factor most dont take into consideration
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