Oil Selection Help Please

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Wow thank you all so much! I half expected a couple replies, but super appreciate the knowledge.
Ill steer clear of the AMSoil, I had not considered Fram filters, I always kinda thought they where the cheap everywhere filters found at Napa etc.

My truck is the 5.3 Direct Injection yes. Should have put that in original post!

And here is a pic
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Silver Ice Metallic. Mods are forthcoming ha.



Meant to ask, so the Oil Life Monitor is not mileage based? It actually checks the oil or something?
 
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The OLM uses a number of factors to determine the oil life in the engine. The exact algorithm is usually proprietary but when I worked at a shop doing independent dyno certifications for GM in the early to mid 2000's we were running and validating GMs oil life calculations at that time. The parameters we monitored were, absolute engine load, throttle position, load vs engine rpm, coolant temperature, oil temp, time since last start, engine rpm vs throttle position, intake air temp, oil pressure, crankcase pressure, engine acceleration rate (rpm/second) and I'm sure a few others I'm forgetting. The test was run by a computer controlled dyno program in a climate controlled dyno cell that had temps ranging from -35-125F based on the test protocol. At the completion of a simulated 100,000 mile run the engines were torn down and examined. The oil was sent out to a lab for analysis following each OCI indicated by the algorithm. Based on the results of the UOA and the engine conditions on tear down GM told us that they had exceeded their design requirements for the OLM algorithm, the design spec was at least 25% oil life reserve remaining @ 500 miles past 0% oil life as indicated by the OLM calculations.

I say all this to say trust the OLM if you desire, they're very very good.
 
What mods do you have planned? There is a dealer installed (or DIY) Borla exhaust that is GM programmable and a fresh air intake.
Tires on stock wheels if you like 33s; 255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx, 265/70/18s Toyo CT and 265/60/20 Toyo CT. All fit with no rubbing.
I've experimented and done UOAs on a 5.3L 2013 SLT (2014 and newer is your engine). In a pinch the oil went 15% over OLM once, 9,500 miles and it looked a little worse for wear.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
What mods do you have planned? There is a dealer installed (or DIY) Borla exhaust that is GM programmable and a fresh air intake.
Tires on stock wheels if you like 33s; 255/80/17 Cooper ST Maxx, 265/70/18s Toyo CT and 265/60/20 Toyo CT. All fit with no rubbing.
I've experimented and done UOAs on a 5.3L 2013 SLT (2014 and newer is your engine). In a pinch the oil went 15% over OLM once, 9,500 miles and it looked a little worse for wear.


Several appearance mods planned.
Mods done so far are Westin nerf bars in black, OEM black emblems. LED bulbs on order for park/reverse/cargo.

Exhaust will be Borla ATAK, not the GM version.
I plan on the GM performance intake as well.

I like the stock wheels actually, just wish they were black lol. May try to find some nice simple ones in a matte black at some point. Same sizes of wheels and tires as stock probably to keep everything in "proportion" for speedo etc. I don't do off roading or racing.
 
The dealer should be able to program the ATAK exhaust in 90 seconds. Just plug in, select Borla and press enter. Same with the intake.
Black nerf bars, black wheels, chrome nerf bars, silver wheels, easy on the eyes. There is a company that makes OEM style wheels with the factory off-set
so the tires 'n wheels aren't sticking out like a Tonka toy, spraying road debris on the paint job.
You might be able to find some 18s or 20s on kijiji cheap.
One guy didn't like the 22s that came on his 16 suburban so he sold them wheels 'n all for a grand Canadian ($750 USD).
Do a before 'n after Borla fuel economy and post it here for us.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
The dealer should be able to program the ATAK exhaust in 90 seconds. Just plug in, select Borla and press enter. Same with the intake....
Do a before 'n after Borla fuel economy and post it here for us.


What do they need to program? That is the first I have heard of that...

Was actually going to ask on another forum what is the best way to get before/after MPG ratings ha.
 
Your fuel consumption on your dash is as accurate as a gas station pump. My 6.6L Dmax is always within 2%.
There is a video on fast Lane trucks on the factory Borla dealer install model, I think they mention the ECM flash.
I'll find it, prolly on my FB wall next to the stabilitrac delete video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_QrK_FixZs
 
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Originally Posted By: thatryan
Ill steer clear of the AMSoil, I had not considered Fram filters, I always kinda thought they where the cheap everywhere filters found at Napa etc.
Meant to ask, so the Oil Life Monitor is not mileage based? It actually checks the oil or something?

Fram's Ultra model is the one to get. It stands out amongst oil filters, gets the most grit out, lasts long, depth filtering more than others. Fram ToughGuard is OK, yet not as good as Ultra. ...... Amsoil used to be the go-to oil, but the big companies like Mobil and Castrol now have their "Extended Performance" oils that are the best chemistry these companies offer and plenty great.

The difference in the cost of an oil change between using inferior products and going all out with the best Mobil/Castrol/Pennz/Fram have to offer is about $9 extra, combined oil and filter material costs. Thats not much. These companies have been working on improved formulations for years and now have products which should primarily keep the piston ringlands cleaner over time.

Yep, the OLM engineering is for real. Follow that exactly with the best oil, and you're already exceeding requirements.
 
If you like the original wheels, just get them powder coated to the finish that you want. Unless you find others that are miles better in your opinion, this is the best value route by far. It also lets you keep the wheel design that was accounted for in the design of the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
If you like the original wheels, just get them powder coated to the finish that you want. Unless you find others that are miles better in your opinion, this is the best value route by far. It also lets you keep the wheel design that was accounted for in the design of the vehicle.


I completely agree with just powder coating the original wheels for the cosmetic look you're going for. It allows you to retain an OEM quality wheel and the look you want.
 
Never looked into powder coating, cool idea thanks!

Looks like Ill be going with Fram Ultra filters and Mobil 1 oil.

As I mentioned, Ill never be a "long life oil changer" I prefer getting more often and like getting dirty.
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I used to be a mechanic, before being diagnosed with Muscular Dystrophy and doctors advised I quit
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So I have a garage full of Snap-on that I use for everything I can, like kids toys lol.

Anyway, was looking at this oil, https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy#0W-20 as it is not an annual or long life deal, how is that one? Any truth to the "fuel economy" claim...?

Thank you all. Wish there was an "appreciate" button for the posts you guys make ha.
 
0w20 AFE would be a great choice. There is truth to the Fuel Economy claim, though you won't notice it on the Silverado. A few percent would only be measurable on something like a Prius.
 
Originally Posted By: thatryan
Never looked into powder coating, cool idea thanks!

Looks like Ill be going with Fram Ultra filters and Mobil 1 oil.

As I mentioned, Ill never be a "long life oil changer" I prefer getting more often and like getting dirty.
smile.gif
I used to be a mechanic, before being diagnosed with Muscular Dystrophy and doctors advised I quit
frown.gif
So I have a garage full of Snap-on that I use for everything I can, like kids toys lol.

Anyway, was looking at this oil, https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy#0W-20 as it is not an annual or long life deal, how is that one? Any truth to the "fuel economy" claim...?

Thank you all. Wish there was an "appreciate" button for the posts you guys make ha.


The Mobil 1 0w20 AFE is what I was referring to in my original post. Readily available at Walmart and many other places. It will be an excellent oil for your new bow tie. The choice of the Fram Ultra is also a great one. Should you ever decide to extend your oil changes past 5,000 miles both have LOTS of reserve capacity to do so, at the very least up to 0% on the oil life monitor. Enjoy your new truck!
 
Fram Ultra's are good. But I'd use an AC Delco filter on the first change at home, then have the dealer do their thing at OLM intervals. They won't know you changed early. They will have you in the database if some warranty issue comes up ...

Then I'd do as you wish as long as it's in spec. Always document your self changes in the back of the Owners Manual on the remark pages. Keep your receipts for oil and filters.

Enjoy your truck
smile.gif


And try to keep it out of the bumper car madness around the SF Bay Area
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Fram Ultra's are good. But I'd use an AC Delco filter on the first change at home, then have the dealer do their thing at OLM intervals. They won't know you changed early. They will have you in the database if some warranty issue comes up ...

Then I'd do as you wish as long as it's in spec. Always document your self changes in the back of the Owners Manual on the remark pages. Keep your receipts for oil and filters.

Enjoy your truck
smile.gif


And try to keep it out of the bumper car madness around the SF Bay Area
frown.gif



LOL no doubt, some really poor drivers out here!

I like the idea I saw mentioned elsewhere too about using an OEM filter first. Are they good enough to just use those, like If I "stock up" or is Fram Ultra ( or even Mobil 1 ) better?

Where do you even get the OEM delco filters?
 
The Fram Ultra is more efficient at trapping particles than the OEM filter. It uses a Synthetic wire backed media with a premium anti drainback valve. It's infinitely debatable if any of those things really matter or actually make a certain filter "better".

However in my humble opinion the Fram Ultra is probably one of the best if not the best filter currently available on the market in terms of materials used, construction quality and efficiency.
 
Powder coated OEM wheels is the way to go if you already like their size. Over here that is one of the standard insurance questions, "have you changed the wheels?". It's always much easier to say they are original factory wheels.

Yes, M1 is a great oil, well designed.

The big question is which filter? Fram Ultra is a better filter, takes out more and lasts longer. But the AC Delco is the OEM filter, so you know it works well for this application.

Me ? I'm more worried about lawyers than engineers, so I would do an early oil change with M1 and AC Delco, then take it to the dealer for it's regular service. That way it is on the books as being correctly serviced by them if any warranty issues arise. Not that I am expecting any.

One final option, if you are doing an early oil change, is to just change the oil but leave the factory filter in. The factory filter can go the distance to the first service, as this is what most people do, but a filter gets more efficient as it is used (removes more), so why not leave the factory filter in. What it has trapped already isn't going anywhere, and actually makes the filter work better. Also make the first (early) oil change very easy.
 
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