BMW Rough Idle after Italian Tuneup
- Thread starter Coprolite
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Originally Posted By: Coprolite
The MAF thinks xx amount of air is going into the engine while in reality it is blowing all over the engine compartment. The computer gets confused that the fuel it added to go with that air isn't burning right and starts to adjust everything and things start to go bonkers.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
There is a philosophy to design weakness into cheap noncritical parts so they fail first and protect expensive parts.
I don't think its just a blown tube though. That wouldn't cause a rough idle.
Did the MAF boot get dislodged?
The MAF thinks xx amount of air is going into the engine while in reality it is blowing all over the engine compartment. The computer gets confused that the fuel it added to go with that air isn't burning right and starts to adjust everything and things start to go bonkers.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
There is a philosophy to design weakness into cheap noncritical parts so they fail first and protect expensive parts.
I don't think its just a blown tube though. That wouldn't cause a rough idle.
Did the MAF boot get dislodged?
The charge pipe is after the MAF in the system. The pipe that typically fails is between then intercooler and throttle plate.
The "MAF boot" or rather "a MAF boot" if you want to call it that, was disloged and yes, it will cause a rough idle as well as both generic P codes pulled.
The "MAF boot" or rather "a MAF boot" if you want to call it that, was disloged and yes, it will cause a rough idle as well as both generic P codes pulled.
Alfred_B. No need for Top Tier when you are adding in a megadose of what makes them more expensive. The $5.20 save basically paid for the PEA&fuel treatment added to clean the system and injectors.
The MAF is well upstream of that break in the system, which is why the computer is confused. Here is the order on the car:
Air Filter (Intake)-MAF-Turbo&Intercooler-Throttle body-et cetera...
The Aluminum bit in the photo is the Throttle body. So MAF is quite a journey upstream...
Right now, I am pondering if it is worth the extra $$ to replace the Turbo to IC pipework while I am at it. Unplanned costs are not pleasant.
**I don't quite know why I have seen it called the Throttle Body, as I thought this was a type of fuel injection point. This is a DI car. rooflessVW is probably more accurate with the Throttle plate term. I am only echoing what I read.
The MAF is well upstream of that break in the system, which is why the computer is confused. Here is the order on the car:
Air Filter (Intake)-MAF-Turbo&Intercooler-Throttle body-et cetera...
The Aluminum bit in the photo is the Throttle body. So MAF is quite a journey upstream...
Right now, I am pondering if it is worth the extra $$ to replace the Turbo to IC pipework while I am at it. Unplanned costs are not pleasant.
**I don't quite know why I have seen it called the Throttle Body, as I thought this was a type of fuel injection point. This is a DI car. rooflessVW is probably more accurate with the Throttle plate term. I am only echoing what I read.
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Yes, if the break is between the MAF and the throttle body, you will have issues like what you describe. It will throw a code indicating bad MAF sensor because the volume of air entering the engine is much more than what the MAF sensor measures. And it's also dirty air so I would get it fixed soon.
It's not a difficult repair but on your car you might need to be a contortionist.
It's not a difficult repair but on your car you might need to be a contortionist.
Charge pipe ordered and getting shipped today. It will be a busy weekend.
It also looks like Ramen noodles will be getting a heavier rotation in the menu. As we are multicultural family, we prefer MaMa.
As an engine modification, it isn't glamorous at +0 HP but it does provide +100% of the boost and drive-ability.
It also looks like Ramen noodles will be getting a heavier rotation in the menu. As we are multicultural family, we prefer MaMa.
As an engine modification, it isn't glamorous at +0 HP but it does provide +100% of the boost and drive-ability.
What is "floated the valves" refer to? That's a new term to me.
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
And now I know what a charge pipe is.
Why in the world do Germans use plastic parts in critical places?
Because the cars are already expensive enough, imagine if they made them without plastic.
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
And now I know what a charge pipe is.
Why in the world do Germans use plastic parts in critical places?
Because the cars are already expensive enough, imagine if they made them without plastic.
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Charge pipe ordered and getting shipped today. It will be a busy weekend.
It also looks like Ramen noodles will be getting a heavier rotation in the menu. As we are multicultural family, we prefer MaMa.
As an engine modification, it isn't glamorous at +0 HP but it does provide +100% of the boost and drive-ability.
Did you upgrade or stay OEM?
Charge pipe ordered and getting shipped today. It will be a busy weekend.
It also looks like Ramen noodles will be getting a heavier rotation in the menu. As we are multicultural family, we prefer MaMa.
As an engine modification, it isn't glamorous at +0 HP but it does provide +100% of the boost and drive-ability.
Did you upgrade or stay OEM?
I went with the ER Black Anodized Aluminum. It was the only one they had in stock. I didn't want to replace with OEM only to fear breaking it against n. Of course, the first one did last over 5 years....
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
I went with the ER Black Anodized Aluminum. It was the only one they had in stock. I didn't want to replace with OEM only to fear breaking it against n. Of course, the first one did last over 5 years....
Nice! Be careful, it's a slippery slope. One mod tends to lead to another...
I went with the ER Black Anodized Aluminum. It was the only one they had in stock. I didn't want to replace with OEM only to fear breaking it against n. Of course, the first one did last over 5 years....
Nice! Be careful, it's a slippery slope. One mod tends to lead to another...
Just a big sneeze...that's all.
Gesundeit!
Gesundeit!
Originally Posted By: Schmoe
Das MAF Boot.
hahaha
Das MAF Boot.
hahaha
The charge pipe is the second most annoying thing on my n54; the way it rests in the fan housing is really weird and difficult to get right. (The screw holding the transmission thermostat to the radiator is easily the first... to do anything in the bay you need to take the fan out; to do that you need to remove that one screw; to do that you need to remove the belly pan... and so on!)
I didn't think they failed that often.
I didn't think they failed that often.
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
The charge pipe is the second most annoying thing on my n54; the way it rests in the fan housing is really weird and difficult to get right. (The screw holding the transmission thermostat to the radiator is easily the first... to do anything in the bay you need to take the fan out; to do that you need to remove that one screw; to do that you need to remove the belly pan... and so on!)
I didn't think they failed that often.
Failure is more common on N55 cars it seems.
The charge pipe is the second most annoying thing on my n54; the way it rests in the fan housing is really weird and difficult to get right. (The screw holding the transmission thermostat to the radiator is easily the first... to do anything in the bay you need to take the fan out; to do that you need to remove that one screw; to do that you need to remove the belly pan... and so on!)
I didn't think they failed that often.
Failure is more common on N55 cars it seems.
Well, After taking off about 10 thousand cladding screws and a bunch of other stuff and dropping the intercooler, the new charge pipe went in and it is all buttoned up and tested. The boost is back. All CEL gone. It only ate up about $450 and a Saturday.
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
Well, After taking off about 10 thousand cladding screws and a bunch of other stuff and dropping the intercooler, the new charge pipe went in and it is all buttoned up and tested. The boost is back. All CEL gone. It only ate up about $450 and a Saturday.
Glad you got it fixed!
Well, After taking off about 10 thousand cladding screws and a bunch of other stuff and dropping the intercooler, the new charge pipe went in and it is all buttoned up and tested. The boost is back. All CEL gone. It only ate up about $450 and a Saturday.
Glad you got it fixed!
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