Rotella T6 ?
- Thread starter daz
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I ve read Triumph likes a thicker oil.
I run 20w50 in my 1600 Twin Thunderbird. I have Quicksilver Motorcycle oil in there now. I bought some Royal Purple on Clearance in 20w50 for my next change.
Makes me feel better having a thick oil in there when your sitting in Bike Week traffic.
I run 20w50 in my 1600 Twin Thunderbird. I have Quicksilver Motorcycle oil in there now. I bought some Royal Purple on Clearance in 20w50 for my next change.
Makes me feel better having a thick oil in there when your sitting in Bike Week traffic.
Depends on clearances. If the motor was designed around a 30 or 40, no need to go 50. That said, I think T6 is good enough to run in my turbo Saab. Used to run it in my Beemer (car).
But too thin for my Sportster. That one needs a 50 for sure
Works fine in my Honda XL350
Look in the owners manual and tell us what they call for. T^ holds up well enough to heat. It's rated by Allison for dual use sump duty (wet clutches, brakes and engine duty in off-road equipment). It's the go-to oil for many applications
But too thin for my Sportster. That one needs a 50 for sure
Works fine in my Honda XL350
Look in the owners manual and tell us what they call for. T^ holds up well enough to heat. It's rated by Allison for dual use sump duty (wet clutches, brakes and engine duty in off-road equipment). It's the go-to oil for many applications
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Originally Posted By: daz
No way to say this without sounding offensive, but i'm not asking about weights or other oils you like etc etc. . I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
It tends to shear relatively quickly on bikes with shared sumps causing shifting to get notchy.
No way to say this without sounding offensive, but i'm not asking about weights or other oils you like etc etc. . I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
It tends to shear relatively quickly on bikes with shared sumps causing shifting to get notchy.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
But too thin for my Sportster. That one needs a 50 for sure
I used 15W-50 Aeroshell in my Sportster from '95 to '99, I put 72,000 trouble free miles on it.
I currently run Mystik 15W-50 in my 1340 Evo Softail, though it has seen PLENTY of 15W-40 diesel oil in it's life.
But too thin for my Sportster. That one needs a 50 for sure
I used 15W-50 Aeroshell in my Sportster from '95 to '99, I put 72,000 trouble free miles on it.
I currently run Mystik 15W-50 in my 1340 Evo Softail, though it has seen PLENTY of 15W-40 diesel oil in it's life.
Originally Posted By: daz
I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I was reading some data on here that regular Rotella 15W-40 actually resists shear better than T6 5W-40
I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I was reading some data on here that regular Rotella 15W-40 actually resists shear better than T6 5W-40
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: daz
I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I was reading some data on here that regular Rotella 15W-40 actually resists shear better than T6 5W-40
Sunrah should be here soon to back that up. If you don't need sub-zero starting ability, the T4 is a better choice. PQIA tests show it has lower NOACK than T6 too. And it's $14/gal. Vs $21. Both meet JASO MA, although not licensed.
Originally Posted By: daz
I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I was reading some data on here that regular Rotella 15W-40 actually resists shear better than T6 5W-40
Sunrah should be here soon to back that up. If you don't need sub-zero starting ability, the T4 is a better choice. PQIA tests show it has lower NOACK than T6 too. And it's $14/gal. Vs $21. Both meet JASO MA, although not licensed.
Originally Posted By: daz
Wow, thats really strange. Synthetic's main benefit in bikes is the lesser shear factor compared to non synthetic. Thats odd.
As I understand it, the base oil itself does not shear, whether it's synthetic or dino. It's the viscosity index improvers that shear. For whatever reason - probably a combination of wide viscosity spread and the robustness of the particular VII's used - T6 just tends to shear quicker than the other Rotellas.
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I think i may pass on rotella completely them, as i don't want to run dino and need to change every 3k.
Some engines are harder on oils than others. Ask some other owners of the same bike to see what their experiences have been.
Wow, thats really strange. Synthetic's main benefit in bikes is the lesser shear factor compared to non synthetic. Thats odd.
As I understand it, the base oil itself does not shear, whether it's synthetic or dino. It's the viscosity index improvers that shear. For whatever reason - probably a combination of wide viscosity spread and the robustness of the particular VII's used - T6 just tends to shear quicker than the other Rotellas.
Quote:
I think i may pass on rotella completely them, as i don't want to run dino and need to change every 3k.
Some engines are harder on oils than others. Ask some other owners of the same bike to see what their experiences have been.
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Ok, lets go with a different question...how do you think rotella would work in a big twin with a low CR and 6.5k redline compared to say castrol bike oil or mobil 1 bike oil? Anything to consider when going to T6 from those? I also feel like this bike;s oil delivery system is not great at circulating oil on cold startup, (I am not alone in this belief either) so i'm thinking 5w cold is a good idea.
Originally Posted By: daz
Ok, lets go with a different question...how do you think rotella would work in a big twin with a low CR and 6.5k redline compared to say castrol bike oil or mobil 1 bike oil? Anything to consider when going to T6 from those?
For one thing, your wallet will be a lot lighter with the Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils than any of the Rotellas. Your bike is liquid cooled so it shouldn't be as brutal on the oil as a big Harley.
If that were my bike, I'd try one of the 15W-40 Rotellas, either the T4 or T5. I'm not a fan of the T6. If the Rotella wasn't to my liking I'd try one of the dino Valvoline motorcycle oils (available in either 10W-40 or 20W-50). If price were no object, I'd go Redline and extend my oil change intervals.
Unless you can tap into a knowledge base of riders with the same bike that have tried various oils, you're going to have to try a couple of different oils to see what you/your bike likes best.
Quote:
I also feel like this bike;s oil delivery system is not great at circulating oil on cold startup, (I am not alone in this belief either) so i'm thinking 5w cold is a good idea.
The W ratings only really matter when temperatures get far below freezing. Somehow I doubt that happens in SoCal unless you park your bike in a meat freezer.
I'm currently running a monograde 40 (Valvoline VR1) in my bike. Monogrades have no W rating because at the temperatures the tests are run to determine the rating, the oil won't even pump because it's too thick. But my bike isn't exposed to those temps - it cranks and starts just fine when the sump is at 60 degrees.
Ok, lets go with a different question...how do you think rotella would work in a big twin with a low CR and 6.5k redline compared to say castrol bike oil or mobil 1 bike oil? Anything to consider when going to T6 from those?
For one thing, your wallet will be a lot lighter with the Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils than any of the Rotellas. Your bike is liquid cooled so it shouldn't be as brutal on the oil as a big Harley.
If that were my bike, I'd try one of the 15W-40 Rotellas, either the T4 or T5. I'm not a fan of the T6. If the Rotella wasn't to my liking I'd try one of the dino Valvoline motorcycle oils (available in either 10W-40 or 20W-50). If price were no object, I'd go Redline and extend my oil change intervals.
Unless you can tap into a knowledge base of riders with the same bike that have tried various oils, you're going to have to try a couple of different oils to see what you/your bike likes best.
Quote:
I also feel like this bike;s oil delivery system is not great at circulating oil on cold startup, (I am not alone in this belief either) so i'm thinking 5w cold is a good idea.
The W ratings only really matter when temperatures get far below freezing. Somehow I doubt that happens in SoCal unless you park your bike in a meat freezer.
I'm currently running a monograde 40 (Valvoline VR1) in my bike. Monogrades have no W rating because at the temperatures the tests are run to determine the rating, the oil won't even pump because it's too thick. But my bike isn't exposed to those temps - it cranks and starts just fine when the sump is at 60 degrees.
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I have seen what others with the same bike use and it's as varied as anything imaginable. No 2 seem to use the same thing, so that does me no good. I really don't want to use dino oil. What is it you dislike about T6?
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Originally Posted By: daz
Ok, lets go with a different question...how do you think rotella would work in a big twin with a low CR and 6.5k redline compared to say castrol bike oil or mobil 1 bike oil? Anything to consider when going to T6 from those?
For one thing, your wallet will be a lot lighter with the Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils than any of the Rotellas. Your bike is liquid cooled so it shouldn't be as brutal on the oil as a big Harley.
If that were my bike, I'd try one of the 15W-40 Rotellas, either the T4 or T5. I'm not a fan of the T6. If the Rotella wasn't to my liking I'd try one of the dino Valvoline motorcycle oils (available in either 10W-40 or 20W-50). If price were no object, I'd go Redline and extend my oil change intervals.
Unless you can tap into a knowledge base of riders with the same bike that have tried various oils, you're going to have to try a couple of different oils to see what you/your bike likes best.
Quote:
I also feel like this bike;s oil delivery system is not great at circulating oil on cold startup, (I am not alone in this belief either) so i'm thinking 5w cold is a good idea.
The W ratings only really matter when temperatures get far below freezing. Somehow I doubt that happens in SoCal unless you park your bike in a meat freezer.
I'm currently running a monograde 40 (Valvoline VR1) in my bike. Monogrades have no W rating because at the temperatures the tests are run to determine the rating, the oil won't even pump because it's too thick. But my bike isn't exposed to those temps - it cranks and starts just fine when the sump is at 60 degrees.
Originally Posted By: jeff78
Originally Posted By: daz
Ok, lets go with a different question...how do you think rotella would work in a big twin with a low CR and 6.5k redline compared to say castrol bike oil or mobil 1 bike oil? Anything to consider when going to T6 from those?
For one thing, your wallet will be a lot lighter with the Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils than any of the Rotellas. Your bike is liquid cooled so it shouldn't be as brutal on the oil as a big Harley.
If that were my bike, I'd try one of the 15W-40 Rotellas, either the T4 or T5. I'm not a fan of the T6. If the Rotella wasn't to my liking I'd try one of the dino Valvoline motorcycle oils (available in either 10W-40 or 20W-50). If price were no object, I'd go Redline and extend my oil change intervals.
Unless you can tap into a knowledge base of riders with the same bike that have tried various oils, you're going to have to try a couple of different oils to see what you/your bike likes best.
Quote:
I also feel like this bike;s oil delivery system is not great at circulating oil on cold startup, (I am not alone in this belief either) so i'm thinking 5w cold is a good idea.
The W ratings only really matter when temperatures get far below freezing. Somehow I doubt that happens in SoCal unless you park your bike in a meat freezer.
I'm currently running a monograde 40 (Valvoline VR1) in my bike. Monogrades have no W rating because at the temperatures the tests are run to determine the rating, the oil won't even pump because it's too thick. But my bike isn't exposed to those temps - it cranks and starts just fine when the sump is at 60 degrees.
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Originally Posted By: daz
I have seen what others with the same bike use and it's as varied as anything imaginable. No 2 seem to use the same thing, so that does me no good.
Oil choice can be a very personal thing. People tend to find an oil that they like and stick with it.
You say that it 'does you no good'. What exactly are your expectations for the oil?
Quote:
I really don't want to use dino oil. What is it you dislike about T6?
It shears quickly in shared sumps.
I have seen what others with the same bike use and it's as varied as anything imaginable. No 2 seem to use the same thing, so that does me no good.
Oil choice can be a very personal thing. People tend to find an oil that they like and stick with it.
You say that it 'does you no good'. What exactly are your expectations for the oil?
Quote:
I really don't want to use dino oil. What is it you dislike about T6?
It shears quickly in shared sumps.
Originally Posted By: daz
No way to say this without sounding offensive, but i'm not asking about weights or other oils you like etc etc. . I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I found that in my shared-sump bike that I tried it in, the shifting quickly became notchy. The 15w40 Rotella was a bit better, but still not great, IME.
No way to say this without sounding offensive, but i'm not asking about weights or other oils you like etc etc. . I'm just asking about rotella T6 itself, how good it is or isn't. 5-40 is fine, i just want opinions on the oil itself.
I found that in my shared-sump bike that I tried it in, the shifting quickly became notchy. The 15w40 Rotella was a bit better, but still not great, IME.
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