Car and Motorcycle Oil filter question
- Thread starter maverickfhs
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Thanks again. FP7317 seems to be rather pricey! It's almost $9-$10 per filter, almost same as XG7317!
Any other suggestions for a cheaper one? maybe super tech? I got these A02 for nearly $3ish per filter.
Any other suggestions for a cheaper one? maybe super tech? I got these A02 for nearly $3ish per filter.
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Thanks again. FP7317 seems to be rather pricey! It's almost $9-$10 per filter, almost same as XG7317!
If you get them in the 6-packs, they run less than $6 each.
Quote:
Any other suggestions for a cheaper one? maybe super tech? I got these A02 for nearly $3ish per filter.
The Ultras are higher efficiency but if cost is more important to you then stick with the A02. Can't do much better than $3 for an OEM filter.
Thanks again. FP7317 seems to be rather pricey! It's almost $9-$10 per filter, almost same as XG7317!
If you get them in the 6-packs, they run less than $6 each.
Quote:
Any other suggestions for a cheaper one? maybe super tech? I got these A02 for nearly $3ish per filter.
The Ultras are higher efficiency but if cost is more important to you then stick with the A02. Can't do much better than $3 for an OEM filter.
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
I use a XG7317 as the bypass pressure is within range for OE spec on my Yammi, as is the P1 (not gonna happen). I used A01 for a few hundred miles, but got rid of it due to lower bypass pressure. Not a huge concern, but an XG is an improvement in every direction.
I did a quick eyeball measure of filter thread depths from can edge.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
Are you saying I should not use A02? Just because I have 20+ laying around
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
Are you saying I should not use A02? Just because I have 20+ laying around
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
I use a XG7317 as the bypass pressure is within range for OE spec on my Yammi, as is the P1 (not gonna happen). I used A01 for a few hundred miles, but got rid of it due to lower bypass pressure. Not a huge concern, but an XG is an improvement in every direction.
Definitely Xg7317 is a way to go, but my motorcycles aren't new, and they are from 90's means I don't they they are high revving or anything as today's modern bikes.
I use a XG7317 as the bypass pressure is within range for OE spec on my Yammi, as is the P1 (not gonna happen). I used A01 for a few hundred miles, but got rid of it due to lower bypass pressure. Not a huge concern, but an XG is an improvement in every direction.
Definitely Xg7317 is a way to go, but my motorcycles aren't new, and they are from 90's means I don't they they are high revving or anything as today's modern bikes.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
I did a quick eyeball measure of filter thread depths from can edge.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Does walmart still carries ST filters? Since I have seen some at my local Walmart. Will check next time!
I did a quick eyeball measure of filter thread depths from can edge.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Does walmart still carries ST filters? Since I have seen some at my local Walmart. Will check next time!
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
I did a quick eyeball measure of filter thread depths from can edge.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Does walmart still carries ST filters? Since I have seen some at my local Walmart. Will check next time!
Walmart sells their Super Tech filters that are now made by Wix. A lot of people seem to like them.
I searched for the PBL14610 on Amazon and got a picture of the "concave" baseplate. So now I see what they are talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PBL1461...ywords=PbL14610
The one I have is convex though, and like I said it had about the most distance to the thread of any filter I looked at.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
I did a quick eyeball measure of filter thread depths from can edge.
Best, Purolator, same base as this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG
second, Champ labs two different kinds. Probably close to the Purolator
third, Wix made ST and Mann Germany
fourth, Baldwin, which the base is close to the same plane as the edge.
I have some others in the garage, Frams I didn't look at. Fram is concave but the thread then sticks up from the low point.
It takes time to use a depth micrometer and get an actual measurement, and this was just eyeball using a square shank screwdriver as a straight edge. No time for that right now. But I see no evidence the Purolator would be out too high. My example was PBL 14477. I'd like to see some actual proof of things claimed if they are to be believed. I don't see pictures of old Purolators that were concave and new that are convex. The new Purolator I linked on Amazon looks just like the ones I always see for many years with the round small holes.
Does walmart still carries ST filters? Since I have seen some at my local Walmart. Will check next time!
Walmart sells their Super Tech filters that are now made by Wix. A lot of people seem to like them.
I searched for the PBL14610 on Amazon and got a picture of the "concave" baseplate. So now I see what they are talking about.
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PBL1461...ywords=PbL14610
The one I have is convex though, and like I said it had about the most distance to the thread of any filter I looked at.
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
Are you saying I should not use A02? Just because I have 20+ laying around
I'm sure they are OK. They are probably made to higher standards than their low-end Orange Cans of Death.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Be better off using the AO2 over that junk Tearolator. See if you can run a good filter like a Fram Ultra on your bike, you'll thank me later!
Let's see... The cheap Honda OEM PLM-A02 is built by Fram; so, it's an Orange Can of Death. The old version PLM-A01 was built by Purolator. I would take a Tearolator over an Orange Can of Death at any time.
The moderately priced Fram Ultra would be a good choice though.
Are you saying I should not use A02? Just because I have 20+ laying around
I'm sure they are OK. They are probably made to higher standards than their low-end Orange Cans of Death.
I think that the Fram orange cans are MUCH better than what you state or believe. Plus they are FAR better than the Purolator offerings in the 14610 and 7317 sizes. Look at some of the recent 7317 Fram orange cans that have been cut and posted on here.
One caution about the Fram-made PLM-A02 though, check to see if its unusually protruded threads fit on your bike without leakage.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
I think that the Fram orange cans are MUCH better than what you state or believe. Plus they are FAR better than the Purolator offerings in the 14610 and 7317 sizes. Look at some of the recent 7317 Fram orange cans that have been cut and posted on here.
You're probably right about the newer Frams. We also don't want the Frampa to come after us.
I think that the Fram orange cans are MUCH better than what you state or believe. Plus they are FAR better than the Purolator offerings in the 14610 and 7317 sizes. Look at some of the recent 7317 Fram orange cans that have been cut and posted on here.
You're probably right about the newer Frams. We also don't want the Frampa to come after us.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The one I have is convex though, and like I said it had about the most distance to the thread of any filter I looked at.
Then it's probably likely that those filters would also be problematic on the same motorcycles that have issues with Purolators.
On the other hand, if the threads on those filters are that much further out, it may be easier to notice that there's something wrong when installing them, e.g. if the filter bottoms out on the threads before the gasket even touches the mating surface. And if you don't notice it then, you'll definitely notice it when you start the engine.
The greater danger is if the oil filter visually appears to install correctly, but doesn't allow you to tighten it enough resulting in an oil leak down the line.
I don't have any of the other filters you listed, but I do have a Yamaha OEM, a K&N, a concave Purolator, and a couple of Ultras.
I remember comparing threads among them when I first heard of this issue and IIRC the concave Purolator and Ultras were very close to the OEM. Eyeballing the pics of the convex Purolator the threads look to be maybe 3mm higher than the concave Purolator.
The one I have is convex though, and like I said it had about the most distance to the thread of any filter I looked at.
Then it's probably likely that those filters would also be problematic on the same motorcycles that have issues with Purolators.
On the other hand, if the threads on those filters are that much further out, it may be easier to notice that there's something wrong when installing them, e.g. if the filter bottoms out on the threads before the gasket even touches the mating surface. And if you don't notice it then, you'll definitely notice it when you start the engine.
The greater danger is if the oil filter visually appears to install correctly, but doesn't allow you to tighten it enough resulting in an oil leak down the line.
I don't have any of the other filters you listed, but I do have a Yamaha OEM, a K&N, a concave Purolator, and a couple of Ultras.
I remember comparing threads among them when I first heard of this issue and IIRC the concave Purolator and Ultras were very close to the OEM. Eyeballing the pics of the convex Purolator the threads look to be maybe 3mm higher than the concave Purolator.
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