2016 F150 3.5 EB ~9.3k miles Edge 0w40
- Thread starter BeerCan
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I'm not really sure why Polaris continually flags Titanium in oils that are known to use it as a part of the addative package, makes me wonder who is actually writing these reports. Otherwise it looks good with the exception of the known fuel issue.
You've had your truck for 44,000 miles in no more than about 18 months, so I can't imagine short trips and idling are the cause of fuel dilution. Interesting to see how the fuel started to blow-by around the 30,000 mile range. Overall it looks like the oil held up well. Wear metals are fine. Hard
I just passed 20,000 miles and will be watching for dilution to start in the next year or so.
I just passed 20,000 miles and will be watching for dilution to start in the next year or so.
Originally Posted By: Onug
You've had your truck for 44,000 miles in no more than about 18 months, so I can't imagine short trips and idling are the cause of fuel dilution. Interesting to see how the fuel started to blow-by around the 30,000 mile range. Overall it looks like the oil held up well. Wear metals are fine. Hard
I just passed 20,000 miles and will be watching for dilution to start in the next year or so.
Polaris only uses gas chromotography if the oil's viscosity is low or the customer requests it. So the <1% "estimate" in the earlier UOAs shouldn't be taken too seriously. With Polaris, gas chromotography results are accompanied by a "GC" label.
You've had your truck for 44,000 miles in no more than about 18 months, so I can't imagine short trips and idling are the cause of fuel dilution. Interesting to see how the fuel started to blow-by around the 30,000 mile range. Overall it looks like the oil held up well. Wear metals are fine. Hard
I just passed 20,000 miles and will be watching for dilution to start in the next year or so.
Polaris only uses gas chromotography if the oil's viscosity is low or the customer requests it. So the <1% "estimate" in the earlier UOAs shouldn't be taken too seriously. With Polaris, gas chromotography results are accompanied by a "GC" label.
Thank you for posting these UOAs of running much-thicker-than-the-recommended oil.
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
straight from the guy who drives a '85 4-popper geez.
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
straight from the guy who drives a '85 4-popper geez.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Ok - 0W is just a function of the market being loaded with those - and 0w40 seen as a "clean" inexpensive (non HDEO) means of putting a strong oil in an engine known for fuel diluted UOA's. So I paid $50k for a vehicle-and get a 60k power train warranty from Ford - but want to run it 150k trouble free - and I should run MC 5w30 oil and filters?
How many here like that plan?
How many here like that plan?
Originally Posted By: dblshock
...ever ask yourself why the Euro's use it?
That's exactly my point. Some people like you think that since BMWs use it, it's also the best oil for their Honda, Toyota engines like yours, as if they have the same turbo engines specifically designed for high HTHSV, not taking into account other viscosity-related considerations such as oil flow, oil temperature, and so on.
...ever ask yourself why the Euro's use it?
That's exactly my point. Some people like you think that since BMWs use it, it's also the best oil for their Honda, Toyota engines like yours, as if they have the same turbo engines specifically designed for high HTHSV, not taking into account other viscosity-related considerations such as oil flow, oil temperature, and so on.
How about just run a good dino HDEO 15w-40 oil and it should run over 300,000 miles without any problems.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Thank you for posting these UOAs of running much-thicker-than-the-recommended oil.
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
But in any case I am happy with the results, my truck runs like a champ. It tows strong and is comfortable.
About the fuel dilution. I am quite sure it has been there all along. I have/had 4 EcoBoosts and they all do it. I don't think it is that big of a deal but at first it freaked me out.
Thank you for posting these UOAs of running much-thicker-than-the-recommended oil.
This looks like another good example of thicker oil not reducing wear but probably making it worse instead, even in hot Florida. With all respect to the OP, people are still lured by "European-vehicle formula," "Made in Germany/Belgium," and "heavy-duty" labels on oil bottles without understanding how oil actually works and that those labels don't benefit them in any ways.
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
But in any case I am happy with the results, my truck runs like a champ. It tows strong and is comfortable.
About the fuel dilution. I am quite sure it has been there all along. I have/had 4 EcoBoosts and they all do it. I don't think it is that big of a deal but at first it freaked me out.
It does benefit a ecoboost motor running a higher viscosity oil because that motor can dilute the motor oil to a high degree. Ohh and these UOAs are not a way to measure "wear rates". Taking the motor apart weighing and measuring parts against original specs is the only real way to measure wear.
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
It's GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 right? These are both ACEA A3/B4 oils, and therefore, their viscosities are practically identical, as the HTHSV is what really matters, and this would be in the 3.5 - 3.7 cP range for either oil. So, yes, you would expect to see identical results with GC 0W-30 or GC 0W-40.
I see that your engine recommends regular 5W-30, which would have an HTHSV around 3.0 cP, and I understand that you're worried about oil thinning due to fuel dilution.
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
It's GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 right? These are both ACEA A3/B4 oils, and therefore, their viscosities are practically identical, as the HTHSV is what really matters, and this would be in the 3.5 - 3.7 cP range for either oil. So, yes, you would expect to see identical results with GC 0W-30 or GC 0W-40.
I see that your engine recommends regular 5W-30, which would have an HTHSV around 3.0 cP, and I understand that you're worried about oil thinning due to fuel dilution.
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Ok - 0W is just a function of the market being loaded with those - and 0w40 seen as a "clean" inexpensive (non HDEO) means of putting a strong oil in an engine known for fuel diluted UOA's. So I paid $50k for a vehicle-and get a 60k power train warranty from Ford - but want to run it 150k trouble free - and I should run MC 5w30 oil and filters?
How many here like that plan?
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/just-reached-100k-miles-2-7-a-354557/
Here is a link to a guy with a 2015 F150 with a 2.7 ecoboost who is now at 150k. He
uses 5w/30 MC full synthetic changed at the dealer and goes by the OLM.
Has had a tune in it since 100k.
There are several stories like this out there.
I think these motors are pretty stout and the fuel dilution, (and the LSPI) is not really a concern.
That being said I still will stay with a 5k OCI on my 2.7. because I am too OCD not to. LOL
Ok - 0W is just a function of the market being loaded with those - and 0w40 seen as a "clean" inexpensive (non HDEO) means of putting a strong oil in an engine known for fuel diluted UOA's. So I paid $50k for a vehicle-and get a 60k power train warranty from Ford - but want to run it 150k trouble free - and I should run MC 5w30 oil and filters?
How many here like that plan?
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/just-reached-100k-miles-2-7-a-354557/
Here is a link to a guy with a 2015 F150 with a 2.7 ecoboost who is now at 150k. He
uses 5w/30 MC full synthetic changed at the dealer and goes by the OLM.
Has had a tune in it since 100k.
There are several stories like this out there.
I think these motors are pretty stout and the fuel dilution, (and the LSPI) is not really a concern.
That being said I still will stay with a 5k OCI on my 2.7. because I am too OCD not to. LOL
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
It's GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 right? These are both ACEA A3/B4 oils, and therefore, their viscosities are practically identical, as the HTHSV is what really matters, and this would be in the 3.5 - 3.7 cP range for either oil. So, yes, you would expect to see identical results with GC 0W-30 or GC 0W-40.
I see that your engine recommends regular 5W-30, which would have an HTHSV around 3.0 cP, and I understand that you're worried about oil thinning due to fuel dilution.
Yeah this one is all Castrol. My 2011 got mostly Kendal 5w-30 and IIRC the numbers were very similar.
TBH I am not using the 40wt because I think it is better than 30wt. I am using it because it is cheaper than the Edge 30wt. Though I will admit to using the Edge 0w30 because of its HTHS numbers in the first place. Once my supply of Edge is gone I will likely switch back to my Kendal stash. By that time my truck will be close to 100k I suppose, unless I trade it in.
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
3 of my uoa's are 30 weight oil and 2 are with 40 weight. The wear numbers are almost identical. The missing 1st uoa on this sheet is posted in a different thread if you care to look. I don't see these numbers as excessive wear in anyway.
It's GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 right? These are both ACEA A3/B4 oils, and therefore, their viscosities are practically identical, as the HTHSV is what really matters, and this would be in the 3.5 - 3.7 cP range for either oil. So, yes, you would expect to see identical results with GC 0W-30 or GC 0W-40.
I see that your engine recommends regular 5W-30, which would have an HTHSV around 3.0 cP, and I understand that you're worried about oil thinning due to fuel dilution.
Yeah this one is all Castrol. My 2011 got mostly Kendal 5w-30 and IIRC the numbers were very similar.
TBH I am not using the 40wt because I think it is better than 30wt. I am using it because it is cheaper than the Edge 30wt. Though I will admit to using the Edge 0w30 because of its HTHS numbers in the first place. Once my supply of Edge is gone I will likely switch back to my Kendal stash. By that time my truck will be close to 100k I suppose, unless I trade it in.
Originally Posted By: BeerCan
Though I will admit to using the Edge 0w30 because of its HTHS numbers in the first place. Once my supply of Edge is gone I will likely switch back to my Kendal stash.
Which HTHSV numbers? Castrol doesn't publish actual HTHSV numbers as far as I know. However, both the GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 have HTHSV >= 3.5 cP since they are ACEA A3/B4.
Yeah, I think a regular synthetic 5W-30 with HTHSV around 3.0 cP would be the optimal choice for this engine.
Though I will admit to using the Edge 0w30 because of its HTHS numbers in the first place. Once my supply of Edge is gone I will likely switch back to my Kendal stash.
Which HTHSV numbers? Castrol doesn't publish actual HTHSV numbers as far as I know. However, both the GC 0W-30 and GC 0W-40 have HTHSV >= 3.5 cP since they are ACEA A3/B4.
Yeah, I think a regular synthetic 5W-30 with HTHSV around 3.0 cP would be the optimal choice for this engine.
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