Leaking valve cover on Toyota Tacoma

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My beloved 3.4L taco has developed a leak at the valve cover. It drips right onto the manifold, causing it to smell like burning rubber all the time. I want to change the gasket asap but at the same time I am moving across the country and have no choice but to drive it first. Is there an OTC oil additive I can add to put a band aid on the problem for now? Or should I just keep adding oil to it as I drive? I have read concerns that some of these products soften and swell other seals in the motor which may be bad.
 
Need more info. What's a taco? Is this the rear VC known for leaking on the V6 Toyota Camry? If so if will cost upwards of $400 to have it replaced? Anyway, if you can't have it replaced now just add oil as needed.
 
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Tighten all the nuts on the valve cover down to factory torque as a first measure. Clean eveything up and watch to see if the leak is still there. I did tyat on my Frontier years ago, and it's still good.
 
I am working on the valve covers of my 3.4 right now. It is not a hard job but it is long so I would recommend doing it your self. The gaskets are like 20 bucks for both sides. I am replacing all the intake manifold gaskets and the spark plug wires at the same time. I will Lso be sending in my injectors for rebuild/cleaning for preventive maintenance.

Cheaper alternative is to just tighten the bolts of the valve cover, but be VERY careful, they are not meant to be tight and you can crack the covers and would have to replace them (Not a cheap part)
 
All the additives used to help stop leaks take some time to work. Doing a long straight drive may not be enough for them to even be effective.

For a quick patch I would clean up around the intake and try to find where the leak is at and just put a small dab of RTV gasket maker there. It's a bandaid fix by all means but as long as you clean up the oil well on the outside it should be able to bond and hold for the length of the drive so you don't have to smell it.
 
As far as bandaid snake oils and Toyota V6's are concerned, I've had good luck with ATP-205 Re-seal on a minor leak on my Lexus.
 
Originally Posted By: mooferz
As far as bandaid snake oils and Toyota V6's are concerned, I've had good luck with ATP-205 Re-seal on a minor leak on my Lexus.



How long did it take to become effective?
 
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Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I am working on the valve covers of my 3.4 right now. It is not a hard job but it is long so I would recommend doing it your self. The gaskets are like 20 bucks for both sides. I am replacing all the intake manifold gaskets and the spark plug wires at the same time. I will Lso be sending in my injectors for rebuild/cleaning for preventive maintenance.

Cheaper alternative is to just tighten the bolts of the valve cover, but be VERY careful, they are not meant to be tight and you can crack the covers and would have to replace them (Not a cheap part)
This this and this.Be careful!
 
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I am working on the valve covers of my 3.4 right now. It is not a hard job but it is long so I would recommend doing it your self. The gaskets are like 20 bucks for both sides. I am replacing all the intake manifold gaskets and the spark plug wires at the same time. I will Lso be sending in my injectors for rebuild/cleaning for preventive maintenance.

Cheaper alternative is to just tighten the bolts of the valve cover, but be VERY careful, they are not meant to be tight and you can crack the covers and would have to replace them (Not a cheap part)


As soon as I get situated In going to be doing the same. Thanks for the tip on the covers. I recently reaquired the FSM so luckily finding the specs won't be hard.

Thanks to everyone answering my questions so promptly on a holiday.
 
Yea, tighten them with a the right sized socket screw driver (if you have one with a socket set); that way you won't over torque them. If not, use a 1/4 ratchet and choke down on it. That should stop the leak.
 
I have it all apart right now, but I have heard that figuring out where all the vacume hose goes can be tough, but the FSM should have a diagram. Good luck OP. The 3.4 is the easiest engine I have ever worked on, and with the light lift. I don't ever have to Jack up the car for anything other than wheel and brakes
 
Originally Posted By: x2468
How long did it take to become effective?

Maybe 3 days or so. About an hour and a half of drive time I'd guess. I left that in for a 3000mi OCI.
 
If tightening VC bolts doesn't work try Liqui-Moly Oil Saver. Great product from a well-regarded German company. Doesn't work immediately but certainly faster than a HM engine oil.
 
Change the oil with Mobil 1 10w30 High Mileage, keep it topped off throughout the trip and fix the issue after you are moved into your new home.
 
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