Oil recommendation for Volvo?

[Volvo25T]

Hey y'all, I have a 2006 Volvo S60 2.5T inline 5cyl turbocharged. I only ever use full synthetic oil on this car and have no leaks or issues.

I've noticed there is no oil spec for this car like there is for every other European make. Is there anything y'all would recommend I use that will work better for me? I live in the south so, it's typically muggy and hot out here. Normally run 5W-30 and 10W-30 when it's particularly hot.

I have a spirited driving style, I take really good care of the car so that I can drive it hard and not feel bad about it. Full synthetic at all times and 93 octane top tier fuel always.

 

[Kestas]

I think you're doing fine. I wouldn't try to improve on your oil choices. Now move on to other things, like transmission or coolant maintenance.

How often do you change your oil?

 

[Volvo25T]

Approx every 5,000 miles and I'll use either a Napa/Wix Gold filter, Mann or Mahle (OEM) filter to accompany it. Generally, I buy whatever full synthetic is on sale. I don't suppose it matters a whole lot, I will say, lately I've really been digging Valvoline. But, ultimately, like I said I'll just buy the cheapest full synthetic I can get my hands on!

Edit: Yeah, I'm slowly doing a transmission drain and fill with Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF for the past 15k miles. I do about 6/8qts at a time. And coolant, I haven't done yet. Replaced a lower expansion tank hose to solve a leak but, haven't gotten around to doing a full drain and refill. I think I'll use Zerex G-05 in there when I do it sometime soon.

 

[Astro14]

Mobil 1 0W40

Nothing better for your Volvo. I've done a couple of UOA to back up that opinion...for example:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2281431

If you read the fine print in both of my 2002 manuals, you'll see a small note that says, something like, "Extreme engine operation
Synthetic oils meeting SAE 0W40 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when towing a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas"

That said, a good XW30 synthetic, that meets the extended service ACEA requirements and is shear resistant, would be a fine choice for your Volvo. But that Mobil 1 0W40 is inexpensive and performs very well under "spirited" driving in a 5 cylinder Volvo turbo engine.

 

[Volvo25T]

Awesome! I'm still relatively new to these forums (been lurking for a long time though) is there any way you could provide me a link to these UOA's?

Also.. are you also on the Volvo XC forums? Your name seems familiar to me.

Edit: you're awesome, read my mind. Thanks for providing the link!

 

[Astro14]

Yeah, I'm on the Volvo XC forum as well...my username is, well, exactly the same...

By the way, the T5 wagon has about 191,000 on it now, and the XC has about 221,000. They both run strong, and the transmissions are working well, despite being from the "problem" years.

Happy to answer any Volvo questions/concerns that you might have.

Cheers,
Astro

 

[Volvo25T]

That's great! Glad to hear both the wagons are running well! I also have an XC90 with the same 2.5T motor that I love. It has 145k miles and my S60 has 113k.

I guess I would ask you, what else would you recommend I do to the car to get it in peak running condition? Pretty soon I'm getting some sporty performance tires. I recently did the front pads and rotors with the NAPA Adaptive One ceramic (which are amazing btw) Need front struts at some point but, I guess I dunno... I feel like I know this car well enough, I just want it to pull even harder. I really like to dog this car on the highway to see what it's capable of.

 

[Lolvoguy]

If you looking for performance gains you might have chosen the wrong car...

That said, if your still interested, others on the site "turbobricks" and "swedespeed" might be able to offer you some insight into additional speed.

IMHO, I'd focus on suspension and bushings. These cars love wearing them out as they age, and replacing with OEM/ equivalent will really help in how it performs.

good luck, and good choice

 

[Finn]

Originally Posted By: Volvo25T
...I've noticed there is no oil spec for this car like there is for every other European make...

As far as I can tell Volvo USA site has owner's manual onsite which states the following:

Engine oil must meet the minimum ILSAC specification GF-3, API SL, or ACEA A1/B1

Viscosity chart ranges from 0W30 to 5W40.

See here:

http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/OwnersManual/om_id/479

 

[Astro14]

Read through this TNN: TNN

Back in 2000-2003, when Volvo NA told its dealers that bulk 5w30 was OK on a 7,500 mile OCI, a lot of sludged-up engines resulted. This TNN describes how to clean it, then makes an oil recommendation: ACEA A3/B3 synthetic oil.

The oil cooler on this engine helps manage the oil temp, so it doesn't get too hot, but a XW40 like the Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra (now PUP) or Castrol is a good choice for "extreme use" based on what Volvo recommends in Europe.

The older SM Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 did well, too.
UOA Pennzoil 5W40

 

[zeng]

How would a non-A3B3/4 say, SN/SM oil cause sludging in a Volvo calling for A3B4, just curious ?
Btw, I use only A3B4 oils in all my Japanese engines calling for API Sx ..... believing it's stouter ..... but don't really know why ?

 

[Kira]

On this board I learned that the Mobil1 0W-40 European Formula (an A3,B3 oil) runs closer to 30 weight at temperature and the Castrol 0W-30 European Formula (now called EDGE) runs closer to a 40 weight at temperature.

The Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 is another I've used.
Any of these are good to use. There are others. The Mobil1 seems to be always available at Walmart for $26.

I use the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc LV in the AW55-50 transmission.

I'm on my 3rd V70 (all base models) but I've cared for and fed 4 turbocharged Saabs.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: zeng
How would a non-A3B3/4 say, SN/SM oil cause sludging in a Volvo calling for A3B4, just curious ?

7500 miles might just have been a little optimistic on conventionals, especially if that was their severe service interval. Audis of the vintage I used to have, while a bit older, had similar concerns. It has a 12,500 km severe service interval, which is roughly the same.

With an A5/B5, perhaps. With a run of the mill API conventional, some people could run into trouble. The old Audi wasn't sludged, but there was coking all over the place. Dealer service with GTX 5w-30 every 12,500 km (or more, if he wasn't on severe service) didn't do it any favours.

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: zeng
How would a non-A3B3/4 say, SN/SM oil cause sludging in a Volvo calling for A3B4, just curious ?
Btw, I use only A3B4 oils in all my Japanese engines calling for API Sx ..... believing it's stouter ..... but don't really know why ?

Because Volvo dealers in the US used bulk Castrol 5W30 Dino (probably SL and not ACEA rated) that didn't meet those specs.

Gee, non-spec oil causing problems? Who would've thought?

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
Read through this TNN: TNN

Back in 2000-2003, when Volvo NA told its dealers that bulk 5w30 was OK on a 7,500 mile OCI, a lot of sludged-up engines resulted. This TNN describes how to clean it, then makes an oil recommendation: ACEA A3/B3 synthetic oil.

The oil cooler on this engine helps manage the oil temp, so it doesn't get too hot, but a XW40 like the Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra (now PUP) or Castrol is a good choice for "extreme use" based on what Volvo recommends in Europe.

The older SM Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 did well, too.
UOA Pennzoil 5W40



A few years back my b-i-l picked up a 2005 S60 with about 100K pretty cheap. It used a quart of oil regularly. I determined that it needed the 'flametrap' done but he never had the money to do it....he just added oil regularly. He recently donated the car and picked up a late model Hyundai. I'm trying to get him into 'preventive maintenance' but old habits are hard to change.
The point of this is that I believe the previous owner used dino oil and did longer (7.5K+) OCI's which caused the flametrap clogging issue due to sludge.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
Because Volvo dealers in the US used bulk Castrol 5W30 Dino (probably SL and not ACEA rated) that didn't meet those specs.

VW/Audi dealers used GTX conventional and 0w-30 ILSAC instead of 0w-30 A3/B4, so why not Volvo?

 

[WhizkidTN]

I'm very partial to Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil. I bought my Volvo S80 at 165K miles in 2014 (somebody's road car I'd bet). I'm now at 218K miles and going strong. The car was serviced for most its entire life (prior to me) at a Volvo dealer (I have the records) and likely used either Castrol semi-synthetic or Edge. No leaks, no smoke and consumes about 1 quart (out of 8.2) over ~6K miles.

 

[Sam_Julier]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
Mobil 1 0W40

Nothing better for your Volvo. I've done a couple of UOA to back up that opinion...for example:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2281431

If you read the fine print in both of my 2002 manuals, you'll see a small note that says, something like, "Extreme engine operation
Synthetic oils meeting SAE 0W40 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when towing a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas"

That said, a good XW30 synthetic, that meets the extended service ACEA requirements and is shear resistant, would be a fine choice for your Volvo. But that Mobil 1 0W40 is inexpensive and performs very well under "spirited" driving in a 5 cylinder Volvo turbo engine.


I completely agree with Astro14. Also, keep after the transmission fluid with cooler line exchanges or regular drain and fills. And the PS fluid. I would place an in line filter in both if you're inclined.

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Read through this TNN: TNN

Back in 2000-2003, when Volvo NA told its dealers that bulk 5w30 was OK on a 7,500 mile OCI, a lot of sludged-up engines resulted. This TNN describes how to clean it, then makes an oil recommendation: ACEA A3/B3 synthetic oil.

The oil cooler on this engine helps manage the oil temp, so it doesn't get too hot, but a XW40 like the Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra (now PUP) or Castrol is a good choice for "extreme use" based on what Volvo recommends in Europe.

The older SM Pennzoil Ultra 5W40 did well, too.
UOA Pennzoil 5W40



A few years back my b-i-l picked up a 2005 S60 with about 100K pretty cheap. It used a quart of oil regularly. I determined that it needed the 'flametrap' done but he never had the money to do it....he just added oil regularly. He recently donated the car and picked up a late model Hyundai. I'm trying to get him into 'preventive maintenance' but old habits are hard to change.
The point of this is that I believe the previous owner used dino oil and did longer (7.5K+) OCI's which caused the flametrap clogging issue due to sludge.


I completely agree with your diagnosis.

Volvos are famous (infamous, really) for flametrap problems. Even on an engine that might see nothing but synthetic oil, you can get carbon/sludge in the flametrap, which reduces, or even eliminates, PCV, forcing the pressure to seek an alternative path...which it finds...via the seals...and if it's a cam seal, it can destroy the timing belt and kill the engine.

I've replaced the flame trap on both my cars, after the seal failure on the XC, but before the seal failure on the T5.

Far, far easier and cheaper if done before...

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Because Volvo dealers in the US used bulk Castrol 5W30 Dino (probably SL and not ACEA rated) that didn't meet those specs.

VW/Audi dealers used GTX conventional and 0w-30 ILSAC instead of 0w-30 A3/B4, so why not Volvo?

They do now!

But they didn't then...and none of the possibilities (ignorance, stupidity, willful deception) would paint them in a positive way...