For about 6 months the gauge cluster will work just fine about half the time and is completely dead the other half. At first I noticed it seemed to go dead after a rain but lately even when kept dry it still doesn't work. This weekend all pixels in odometer display stay lit up whether driving or whether ignition off and key removed. Has anyone experienced this and is there something easy to check out before taking in for gauge cluster replacement? Already checked fuses. Thanks.
2003 GMC Sierra 1500 gauge cluster failure
- Thread starter Carbon12
- Start date
- Status
I've heard cleaning the contacts with pencil eraser helps.
Generally cold solder joints on the PCB will really be finely cracked solder joints.
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
Thanks guys. I found a YouTube video where a guy was successful re-soldering the pins around the socket that the wiring plugs into. I removed the cluster which was pretty easy and re-soldered them. I also cleaned the prongs that make the connection to the wiring terminal. Reinstalled and no luck. I guess I will have to look into taking it to the shop.
like i posted earlier i do 6 or more a week.
its not a diy job.
unless you have a hot air station and dont mind working with tiny surface mount stuff.
many units that have been worked on by the owner before being sent in wind up scrap.
at the least it doubles the time and cost to get it going again.
its not a diy job.
unless you have a hot air station and dont mind working with tiny surface mount stuff.
many units that have been worked on by the owner before being sent in wind up scrap.
at the least it doubles the time and cost to get it going again.
the voltage regulator i speak of is in the cluster.not that the one in the alternator is trouble free LOL!
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
Generally cold solder joints on the PCB will really be finely cracked solder joints.
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
Generally cold solder joints on the PCB will really be finely cracked solder joints.
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
Generally cold solder joints on the PCB will really be finely cracked solder joints.
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
I think it has something to do with the switch to lead-free solder in 2006. I've heard about all kinds of electrical problems on cars from around that time. I know this is a 2003, but who knows if they voluntarily switched before that. My parents have an 04 sierra that got the cluster swapped under warranty when it was pretty new.
Generally cold solder joints on the PCB will really be finely cracked solder joints.
During manufacturing the screening of the solder paste will be thinner then usual
to cut costs, the reflow of these joints during manufacturing yields solder fillets
on SMT parts on the PCB that are incredibly thin! So they crack!
You'd need a good magnifier and a very fine iron tip and steady hand to fix them!
The other post on voltage regulator probs is a sure thing too! - 'Thanks' GM
I think it has something to do with the switch to lead-free solder in 2006. I've heard about all kinds of electrical problems on cars from around that time. I know this is a 2003, but who knows if they voluntarily switched before that. My parents have an 04 sierra that got the cluster swapped under warranty when it was pretty new.
FWIW I had a 2004 Impala with a bad cluster and a buddy that had a 2004 Tahoe with a bad cluster. Send it off to the guy who posted above because he fixes these. I sent mine off to a guy on ebay who sent me back a rebuilt cluster in exchange + 150 bucks. Cluster issues are a common problem with this era GM products.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
- Messages
- 1,187
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
FWIW I had a 2004 Impala with a bad cluster and a buddy that had a 2004 Tahoe with a bad cluster. Send it off to the guy who posted above because he fixes these. I sent mine off to a guy on ebay who sent me back a rebuilt cluster in exchange + 150 bucks. Cluster issues are a common problem with this era GM products.
+2. I HAVE a 2004 Impala (never see it, my son has it away at college). Had to have a dealer install a new gauge cluster when the speedometer went berserk on us while vacationing in the Rocky Mountains and we couldn't read speed coming down a 3 mile long grade. It wasn't funny. The car had 42K on it and the warranty was up at 36K. It was actually still under warranty when we left for vacation.
FWIW I had a 2004 Impala with a bad cluster and a buddy that had a 2004 Tahoe with a bad cluster. Send it off to the guy who posted above because he fixes these. I sent mine off to a guy on ebay who sent me back a rebuilt cluster in exchange + 150 bucks. Cluster issues are a common problem with this era GM products.
+2. I HAVE a 2004 Impala (never see it, my son has it away at college). Had to have a dealer install a new gauge cluster when the speedometer went berserk on us while vacationing in the Rocky Mountains and we couldn't read speed coming down a 3 mile long grade. It wasn't funny. The car had 42K on it and the warranty was up at 36K. It was actually still under warranty when we left for vacation.
Update
I found a place that repairs these and that is only a few minutes out of my way on my daily commute. Dropped the cluster off this morning and picked up this evening. Reinstalled it, started truck and everything worked great. Shut it off, came back a few minutes later to drive it somewhere and same symptoms as before. No gauges no odometer. I guess something else is frying a component on the board or something. I probably just spent $150 for nothing only to take it in to dealer who will find something else wrong and I'll need another repair on the cluster as well. Ughh.
I found a place that repairs these and that is only a few minutes out of my way on my daily commute. Dropped the cluster off this morning and picked up this evening. Reinstalled it, started truck and everything worked great. Shut it off, came back a few minutes later to drive it somewhere and same symptoms as before. No gauges no odometer. I guess something else is frying a component on the board or something. I probably just spent $150 for nothing only to take it in to dealer who will find something else wrong and I'll need another repair on the cluster as well. Ughh.
Different vehicle (03 Maxima) but same problem. The alternator is known bad. Does not charge, so at times there is only 11+ volts when the car is running. That makes the cluster go berserk. When I charge the battery, then run, all is good.
Check your alternator voltage to verify all is well. And all grounds.
Check your alternator voltage to verify all is well. And all grounds.
its about 50/50 between the repair shop missing the issue or a bad ground.
this is why i have a test setup to run these on the bench.
if its a bad ground often it is restored by plugging in a scantool.
its a easy test.
unfortunately too many places that claim to rebuild these dont have what it takes to do this right.
these very often need extensive smd rework to get them back to 100%
its a big floppy board in a flimsy plastic shell.
fatigue catches up to them.
this is why i have a test setup to run these on the bench.
if its a bad ground often it is restored by plugging in a scantool.
its a easy test.
unfortunately too many places that claim to rebuild these dont have what it takes to do this right.
these very often need extensive smd rework to get them back to 100%
its a big floppy board in a flimsy plastic shell.
fatigue catches up to them.
mine apparently ties grounds together.
its a generic bluetooth unit.
btw those trucks have problems with grounds on the frame near the abs unit.
yes the abs unit is under the truck.
the guys that send me those modules for repair cuss about that a lot.
in the end to repair the abs issue means replacing brake lines as they are a rusty mess.
and the screws holding the ebcm never come out easily.so the whole ebcm/pump assy has to come out.pulling the thread on the proverbial sweater....
its a generic bluetooth unit.
btw those trucks have problems with grounds on the frame near the abs unit.
yes the abs unit is under the truck.
the guys that send me those modules for repair cuss about that a lot.
in the end to repair the abs issue means replacing brake lines as they are a rusty mess.
and the screws holding the ebcm never come out easily.so the whole ebcm/pump assy has to come out.pulling the thread on the proverbial sweater....
- Status
