engine oil viscosity

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"OP is in Jordan, not NZ."

I'm not sure how New Zealand came into the picture. Anyhow I agree using at least a 5w-30 or a 15w-40. Jordan is dusty plus hot. How fast do drivers go there? Some places in the ME are like the autobahn. That would influence the decision as well.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: tig1
I would go with a quality 0-20. Your engine won't be so sluggish, easier on the starter, oil flows faster to the upper end, especially in cold temps.


Or he could follow what his manufacturer recommends...and it's NOT 0W20.

BTW, oil flows faster ?

Again ???

We've been over this ad-nauseum, only at the limits of pumpability (your ESSO video link)...OP isn't at the limits of anything 20W or under...


Re-read the chart the OP posted. 0-20 is recommended for the entire band of temps. The limits of oil flow does depend on the wt vs temp. The thicker the oil the slower it flows. I have seen that in my engines in temps I have experienced.


Food for thought:

The A1/B1 ACEA-2012 category directly below is removed from ACEA-2016 Sequences



Low viscosity oils in the new ACEA-2016 A5/B5 category are not restricted by viscosity but must meet a HTHS range of 2.9 to 3.5 mPas



With that, one must first question why? Does ~2.6 hths oils not comply with European wear testing, deposit formation, TBN retention or some combination thereof? Second, if flow is such a critical advantage with xx-20 oils then by extension that line of critical thinking would seemingly invalidate any non low viscosity oil. I would think ACEA/ATIEL/EELQMS know what they are doing.
 
Go with the cheapest option with the best ratings. If I did that, it would be shell helix hx7 10w40 in Australia. Regularly goes to $19.90 for 5L and has many approvals; with one being A3/B4.

Some 15w40 can be really cheap too and are very robust oils.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
The thicker the oil the slower it flows. I have seen that in my engines in temps I have experienced.


What temps ???

Anything above freezing, and you are conning yourself...
 
Im sorry about the location i'm in jordan ( middle east ) nz was the location on my profile by default I guess or mistake . thank you so much for all suggestions you are wonderfull
 
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Originally Posted By: ndfergy
That flow rate chart of different temps and viscosities you posted awhile back was the clincher for me.


The time to oil pressure and rocker arm oiling with sae30, 10w and 5w?
 
Originally Posted By: NateDN10

OP is in Jordan, not NZ.


He was in NZ, now it's Jordan - nothing like misinformation to spin a thread out.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
When similar volumes of water (at 1 cSt) and motor oil (at 100 cSt) at a specified ambient temperature are dropped simultaneously from the top of Eiffel Tower, would not water touches the ground called earth much later .... than said motor oil ?

This analogy of mine is flawed , thousand apologies to Bitog community.
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: ndfergy
That flow rate chart of different temps and viscosities you posted awhile back was the clincher for me.


The time to oil pressure and rocker arm oiling with sae30, 10w and 5w?


That too but this:

 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: dubber09
I'd run 10-40 or 15-40, Rotella will work fine and keep engine very clean.

No Rotella outside of North America...


Known as Rimula elsewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: dubber09
I'd run 10-40 or 15-40, Rotella will work fine and keep engine very clean.

No Rotella outside of North America...


Known as Rimula elsewhere.

Yes, i would not run a HDEO in a new 2016 car however, and i only know of one Gasoline rated Shell Rimula oil which is the Dino R4X 15W-40.
 
Originally Posted By: hamm
hey i have a 2016 Mitsubishi lancer 1.6L as you can see in the pic the owner manual says choose engine oil according to atmospheric temperature.
the temperature where i live is between 18-35 Celsius ( 63-97 fahrenheit )

the oil station told me to use 10w40.

the dealer says 20w50

i dont know what viscosity to choose . thank you so much

Neither 10W-40 nor 20W-50 is good for your engine. Use the thinnest synthetic oil you can find. Thicker the oil, less your horsepower and fuel economy will be.

So, synthetic 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30 are best choices for this engine unless you prefer a sluggish engine and inferior fuel economy.
 
but thinner oil means more wear specially in a hot temp , air con and traffic ... right ?
 
From the looks of your owners manual, you can run any of those without concern. I'd use whatever is easiest to find in your auto parts store. Probably 10W30 or 5W30.
 
Originally Posted By: hamm
but thinner oil means more wear specially in a hot temp , air con and traffic ... right ?

No, for a gasoline (petrol) engine, using a thicker oil than recommended in the owner's manual won't reduce wear.

For a diesel engine, a thicker oil could reduce wear, as some diesel engines run very sooty and soot particles are abrasive. Therefore, by making the oil film thicker, you reduce the chances of a large soot particle grinding on two sliding parts. This is especially important with sooty large truck engines.

For a gasoline (petrol) engine, you don't have this problem. As long as the oil film is not too thin to fail in high engine loads and/or low RPMs, it will provide enough separation in the bearings and pistons. Therefore, choosing the lowest viscosity recommended n the owner's manual will be adequate and going to thicker oil won't make any difference in wear, as the separation between sliding parts doesn't affect wear. Thinner oils will result in more horsepower and better fuel economy, especially under light engine load such as regular cruising. Moreover, since thinner oil flows faster and better, overall lubrication and cooling in the engine will be improved. Thinner oil also decreases the bearing temperatures. It's a win - win choice to use the thinnest oil recommended for a gasoline engine. Therefore, 0W-20, or 5W-20 if 0W-20 is not available, is the best choice in your case. 5W-30 would be OK too. In any case don't use anything thicker than 10W-30 unless you are driving full-throttle all the time, and chances are that even in that case, you don't need a thicker oil for your nonturbo, low-power-density engine.
 
Originally Posted By: hamm
but thinner oil means more wear specially in a hot temp , air con and traffic ... right ?

Not really, in your new car all you really need is a 5W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic oil.
20W-50 is too thick for a 2016 car.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: hamm
but thinner oil means more wear specially in a hot temp , air con and traffic ... right ?

No, for a gasoline (petrol) engine, using a thicker oil than recommended in the owner's manual won't reduce wear.

For a diesel engine, a thicker oil could reduce wear, as some diesel engines run very sooty and soot particles are abrasive. Therefore, by making the oil film thicker, you reduce the chances of a large soot particle grinding on two sliding parts. This is especially important with sooty large truck engines.

For a gasoline (petrol) engine, you don't have this problem. As long as the oil film is not too thin to fail in high engine loads and/or low RPMs, it will provide enough separation in the bearings and pistons. Therefore, choosing the lowest viscosity recommended n the owner's manual will be adequate and going to thicker oil won't make any difference in wear, as the separation between sliding parts doesn't affect wear. Thinner oils will result in more horsepower and better fuel economy, especially under light engine load such as regular cruising. Moreover, since thinner oil flows faster and better, overall lubrication and cooling in the engine will be improved. Thinner oil also decreases the bearing temperatures. It's a win - win choice to use the thinnest oil recommended for a gasoline engine. Therefore, 0W-20, or 5W-20 if 0W-20 is not available, is the best choice in your case. 5W-30 would be OK too. In any case don't use anything thicker than 10W-30 unless you are driving full-throttle all the time, and chances are that even in that case, you don't need a thicker oil for your nonturbo, low-power-density engine.

I'm not sure that 0W-20 or 5W-20 is available in Jordan because they don't have CAFE standards, not that i would see any reason to use one even if they were...
 
Originally Posted By: hamm
but thinner oil means more wear specially in a hot temp , air con and traffic ... right ?

Yes, you are right as above statements had been properly peer-reviewed by professionals in SAE, API , AECA, Universities etc .......
in relation to which any so called 'peer review', if any which it doesn't , from OEM marketing propaganda and Bitog should be taken with a heavy pinch of salt or ignored, provided it's peer-reviewed typically by Universities .

Hot oil temperatures , in itself does not cause abrasion and adhesion wear.
However it reduces oil operating viscosity and it's inching towards propensity for increased abrasion and adhesion wear.

So is reduced operating viscosity, in itself does not cause abrasion and adhesion wear.
However it reduces oil film thickness and further inches towards propensity for increased wear, further reducing your 'margin of safety' so to speak.

Going forward, reduced operating viscosity (other than increased engine load and reduced engine speed ) that causes reduced oil film thickness, and at a particular magnitude of surface roughness of mating surfaces, gives rise to a (new) phenomenon of shifting lubrication regimes from:

a )Hydrodynamic Lubrication (HL) regimes to Elasto Hydrodynamic Lubrication (EHL) regimes; and from
b )EHL regimes to Mixed Lubrication (ML) regimes ; and from
c )ML regimes to Boundary Lubrication (BL) regimes, ultimately.

Adhesion and abrasion wear would definitely increase further in scenarios (b) and (c) above, though 'usual' lubricant oil contamination level can too results in abrasion wear in (a) above.

Now, it's the increased adhesion and abrasion wear , which often are localised at contacting surfaces AND
alters dimensions and surface roughness of individual contacting components to the extent it's sufficient to .........
alter the 'design and mechanics of components operation of said engines' ,
that plays a major role in reduction of components longevity.

SAE paper(s) did suggest that majority of engine wear is corrosion wear, especially at startup and warmup phase or 'short' period after fully warm up phase.
They are influenced by among others cold oil (and ambient) temperaturess, some (or all) biofuels , fuels additive and engine oil additive packages, driving patterns etc.

However, with improved quality of current day fuels/oils and in relations to (localised) adhesion and abrasion wear,
I'm personally not quite worried about corrossion wear (which constitutes majority of engine wear) for the following reasons, namely:
a) they are not localised generally; and
b) where localised corrossion wear does occur , they are not at the contacting surfaces ; and
c) where corrosion wear occurs and localise at a certain pair of contacting surfaces (which I'm highly doubtful of ), it's likely spread out along the surface profiles of contacting components ........
such that all 3 scenarios above are not likely to result in changes in (measurable) components dimensions (in microns or a fraction of a thousandths of an inch) ---
hence, its (meaning corrosion wear) effect on reduction of engine components longevity is insignificant AND inconsequential , if any.
 
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