03 Maxima 3.5L numerous issues

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you might as well replace all those gaskets, and also replace the knock sensor, since it's much harder to replace when the engine is assembled, and also it is a frequent problem in these cars. Also, pull the valve covers while you can, so that the gaskets won't be leaking later!

Use Victor Reinz or Beck/Arnley gaskets, and a Hitachi knock sensor
smile.gif


I can't wait to see what it looks like under the valve covers
banana2.gif
 
Didn't read through the whole thing but have you checked the coils for your misfire code? Pretty sure those are the original ones on there.

I have replaced 2 ignition coils on my car and one of them was before 130k miles. This engine rattles and shakes really bad when a coil goes out.
 
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Didn't read through the whole thing but have you checked the coils for your misfire code? Pretty sure those are the original ones on there.

I have replaced 2 ignition coils on my car and one of them was before 130k miles. This engine rattles and shakes really bad when a coil goes out.


Yeah thats what its doing, swapping coils and plugs around didn't change the code. Stuck on P0304 the minute you connect the battery and start it. So I think the coils are ok. But i am going to swap plugs. Don't want to spend too much to find out the engine is junk.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: mk378
Test compression, of the three cylinders you can reach easily anyway.

Originally Posted By: mk378
I will say if it fails a compression test, you can quit wondering about other stuff.

+1


I don't have the tools or knowledge to do a compression test.

You say that you don't want to spend much on repairing this car. A compression test is a FUNDAMENTAL diagnostic test on a low value car with this many miles and a dead cylinder miss.
Performing an engine compression test is not rocket science. The Internet is a wonderful place to learn new things.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/
And... compression gauge testers are not expensive tools.
https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Compression-Engine-Cylinders-Diagnostic/dp/B013OL5TBG
If a low value car with a high mile engine flunks a compression test, you would stop spending money and working on it right then and there.
 
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: mk378
Test compression, of the three cylinders you can reach easily anyway.

Originally Posted By: mk378
I will say if it fails a compression test, you can quit wondering about other stuff.

+1


I don't have the tools or knowledge to do a compression test.

You say that you don't want to spend much on repairing this car. A compression test is a FUNDAMENTAL diagnostic test on a low value car with this many miles and a dead cylinder miss.
Performing an engine compression test is not rocket science. The Internet is a wonderful place to learn new things.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/
And... compression gauge testers are not expensive tools.
https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Compression-Engine-Cylinders-Diagnostic/dp/B013OL5TBG
If a low value car with a high mile engine flunks a compression test, you would stop spending money and working on it right then and there.

LOL, thats way easier than what I've done so far. And the kit is cheap. Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: mk378
Test compression, of the three cylinders you can reach easily anyway.

Originally Posted By: mk378
I will say if it fails a compression test, you can quit wondering about other stuff.

+1


I don't have the tools or knowledge to do a compression test.

You say that you don't want to spend much on repairing this car. A compression test is a FUNDAMENTAL diagnostic test on a low value car with this many miles and a dead cylinder miss.
Performing an engine compression test is not rocket science. The Internet is a wonderful place to learn new things.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a8520/cars-101-how-to-do-a-compression-test-14912158/
And... compression gauge testers are not expensive tools.
https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Compression-Engine-Cylinders-Diagnostic/dp/B013OL5TBG
If a low value car with a high mile engine flunks a compression test, you would stop spending money and working on it right then and there.


Autozone will loan me a compression tester. Assume I have to put the engine back together (lower IMG, plenum, injectors ) for an accurate test?
 
No you don't have to put the intake back on. Very important though you need to remove the fuse or relay to disable the fuel pump so gas doesn't spill.
 
As someone that still owns a VQ30 and VQ35.

I can say a lot of the 02/03 VQ35 burned oil and killed themselves. Dealerships were giving new engines often.

I had similiar issues with my Maxima, VQ30. It was cylinder 4 misfire. I went as far as all new plugs, swapping coils and getting new coils. Even swapped injectors. I had full compression so i torn it down similiar to your state and replaced the intake gaskets and it solved my problem.

I have no seen an issue on the later VQ35DE...

I would stop at replacements of gaskets and if it doesn't solve it, JUNK it. Those cars are worth about $3500 on a Great sunny day. They are prone to rust at the rear fenders and front radiator support. They offer great power but at the cost of prem fuel and subpar MPG.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
As someone that still owns a VQ30 and VQ35.

I can say a lot of the 02/03 VQ35 burned oil and killed themselves. Dealerships were giving new engines often.

I had similiar issues with my Maxima, VQ30. It was cylinder 4 misfire. I went as far as all new plugs, swapping coils and getting new coils. Even swapped injectors. I had full compression so i torn it down similiar to your state and replaced the intake gaskets and it solved my problem.

I have no seen an issue on the later VQ35DE...

I would stop at replacements of gaskets and if it doesn't solve it, JUNK it. Those cars are worth about $3500 on a Great sunny day. They are prone to rust at the rear fenders and front radiator support. They offer great power but at the cost of prem fuel and subpar MPG.

Thats promising. Hopefully if it ever stops raining here I'm going to be able to work on it again
 
Would appear the gasket areas are corroded on #4 and a couple others. I can't get them totally clean. Been using razor blade, carb clean, wd40, green scruffy. Is this good enough? is there something else I should try to clean that surface?


 
I prefer THESE for aluminum and the green for steel/iron. They aren't as aggressive but still do a great job at cleaning. They start out a little less aggressive, then work their best when they're about 1/2 to 2/3 worn.

If you are going to use the Scotch Brite roloc disks, make sure to be careful as they depending on the color, they can be SUPER aggressive, especially when new.
 
It came out great. Just like new. Putting back together. I'm worried about the injector holes. did my best to clean them up, but there is a lot of aluminum corrosion in the hole. Will that act as a vacuum leak if its not tight?
 
I normally use Roloc disc as well, red ones. I need to find a place to buy them in BULK.

I doubt you will have vac leaks due to corrosion, it could happen but rare.

Replacing all the gaskets i think will solve your issue. Dont forget the injector o-rings.
 
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