Honda CBR600F PC41 Motul 7100 10w30 5985km

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Hi,first UOA here.
Bike bought new 1km on the odometer.
First oil change as per manual instructions at 1.000km with Honda 4 stroke 10w30 motorcycle oil.Tender break in as I was trying to get comfy with the new bike.Stock oil filter
Second oil change at 6.000km with Motul 7100 10w30 SN JASO MA2 rated (fully synthetic) and K&N oil filter.At this point the air filter was changed to a new K&N filter and was never cleaned or oiled.
Same oil but no filter change at 12.000xm.This is the 3rd oil change at 18.000km after 14 moths with the same oil and a new K&N filter installed.I plan on sending next UOA at 24.000km
Bike is driven at the motorway and country roads only.No city driving , no short trips.One track day and moderate to high speeds,kind of relatively easy on the revs (though it is a high revving engine).Blackstone reports this bike as the older CBR600F4i but actually it is a 2011 CBR600F PC41 (CBR600RR 2007 engne slightly detuned to 102HP)
 
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Seems so,but not too bad.It is in the upper range of SAE 20.I should expect that to happen in a shared sump.
 
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I 'd like to add that according to Motul this oil has a cSt viscosity of 11.4 @ 100 Celsius and a flashpoint of 442.4F
 
Hey its French - breaks down at the slightest provocation !
smile.gif


j/k!

I was a fan of motul 8100 5w30 econergy. best winter oil ever used. 0f like starting and warmup in the summer!

is 7100 technosynthese or full monty diester, former would explain the shear - or not.
 
Yes 10w30 is the recommended viscosity for my bike.I think for all honda bikes manufactured the last decade.7100 is 100% synthetic ester technology. The term technosynthese is used by motul for the inferior 5100 oil.
 
I wonder if the viscosity would drop even more if I followed the 12000km oil change interval as written on the users manual. Those 6000km were as easy driven as can be for this type of motorcycle and the type of oil I used theoretically is one of the best on the market.surely the best of the motul line for street use.
 
honda went 10w/30 on my cbr1000rr8 but I just didn't feel comfortable with it. My engine runs hot very quickly in stationary traffic or traffic crawls in warmer weather (although never beyond the cooling fan's control). So I switched to 10w/50 since the first oil change

I also believe the viscosity drop is okay but what if you kept the oil for 12k

BTW how do you find the feel of the bike with this oil?
 
Everything seems fine with the Motul 7100 10w30,same feeling as the Honda 10w30 4 stroke oil I used at the 1000-6000km interval (but I was getting comfortable with the bike then,never had such a powerful bike before).Engine sounds healthy from cold to hot,clutch and gearbox were consistent througout the OCI,zero oil consumption.Nothing to complain about.I did not realised the viscosity drop while adding the distance.Also,the oil was in a good shape visually,it still had some of the red tint of the original ("strawberry" red) color,had turned into dark brownish red of course.It was more than satisfactory that the TBN was so strong,probably because of lacking of short trips.I still have 11 liters of the stuff so I will keep using it and I hope that the wear metals drop next time,specially after the filter change that took place this time (last time I kept the filter in place).although after thinking twice I am not really higher than the universal averages based on a 2600km interval considering the amount of distance in my UOA.
 
Not a very impressive report, not that I ever expect one from any of the "boutique oils" but to be honest, your report to me is horrible and to me the perfect experiment would be to use a 10w30 "diesel" rated oil. I assume over there that would mean an E-7 or higher.
Your in Greece and I dont know what they sell over there.
 
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I could not find any automotive 10w30 oil after a quick search on the web at the Greek market.After all I have a quantity of this oil enough for about 3 more oil changes.After that (maybe after 5 years or so and many many hours reading on this forum),maybe I ll reconsider my next oil purchase.Thanks for the comments.Could you explain the horrible results in your opinion?
 
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Originally Posted By: Panos
I could not find any automotive 10w30 oil after a quick search on the web at the Greek market.After all I have a quantity of this oil enough for about 3 more oil changes.After that (maybe after 5 years or so and many many hours reading on this forum),maybe I ll reconsider my next oil purchase.Thanks for the comments.Could you explain the horrible results in your opinion?


Didnt mean to sound disrespectful in anyway, Im just really surprised to see 39 PPM for Iron and 47 PPM for aluminum in a Honda Engine after its 3rd oil change.
Part of my reaction is (in my head) when there is a bad UOA (or not so great) posted on here I always feel it comes from one of these super expensive, well known Boutique oil companies from overseas that have all this great expensive, top tier Group oil in them, then people post far better UOAs using oils costing much less.

If the oil works good for you and you dont mind spending for it, that is all that matters, the Honda wont care, assuming those wear numbers come down a little more.
 
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Originally Posted By: alarmguy
the Honda wont care, assuming those wear numbers come down a little more.


and what if they dont come down?
 
Originally Posted By: bonjo
honda went 10w/30 on my cbr1000rr8 but I just didn't feel comfortable with it. My engine runs hot very quickly in stationary traffic or traffic crawls in warmer weather (although never beyond the cooling fan's control). So I switched to 10w/50 since the first oil change.


bonjo,

I'm the first guy to "question" what oil the manufacturer recommends, as I am always trying different oils. I am finding regardless if it's 5w-40, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50 or 20w50 (oils I have run in my ZRX1200) based upon wear analysis and relative miles for each oil change, the protection is similar. Some show better than others however with the margin of error and when talking 5 ppm versus 7 ppm for example, we are picking small nits, IMO.

With that said, when running 20W50 for the first time last summer the fan came on more frequently than when running any of the "lighter" weight oils mentioned above. Lighter weight oil flows faster and carries more heat away from the engine than a heavier oil. It has been shown and proven in many different types of vehicles to be the case. I have gone back to 15wXX oil and the fan hasn't come on yet this riding season.

I don't know if the 10w50 vs 10w30 would have that effect (higher temp w/10w50), I am just familiar with the effect as a relates to the base oil weight.

If you don't mind me asking, are you seeing a reduction in the fan coming on with 10W50 versus the 10W30? For sure I would expect better shift quality in the long term with the 10w50.
 
I mailed them to clarify that my engine is a detuned version of the 2007 CBR600RR and not the older CBR600F4i engine and the gave me another report with universal averages for the CBR600RR engine which were ALUMINIUM 17 and IRON 20.On the comments now the changed the average distance interval to this:
"Our averages are also based on a shorter interval of about 3,100 km, so running the oil longer accounts for some of the metal too."

So the analogy for my 5985km interval comes to
39 ALUMINIUM and 34.5 IRON in respect to the CBR600F4i averages based on 2600km interval
and
33 ALUMINIUM and 38.6 iron in respect to the CBR600RR averages based on the 3100km interval

So, I suppose I am not that bad at all for a quite new engine.Keep in mind that my first oil change was at 1000km ,my second at 6000km and my third at 12000km,quite lenghty regarding to what I see for this type of vehicle in this forum and not really hard riden,so the wear in particles maybe have not completely flushed yet.We 'll see at the next UOA.
 
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N
Originally Posted By: sunruh
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
the Honda wont care, assuming those wear numbers come down a little more.


and what if they dont come down?


Since I don't live in Greece I don't know what's available there. But then again I wouldn't be using that oil anyway. If it was me I would try this assuming it's available but again not living there I would obviously be researching more as I am sure, like here there are many options.

Click here
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
the Honda wont care, assuming those wear numbers come down a little more.


and what if they dont come down?


Might only go 250,000 miles.
 
I believe that too. Anyway 12000km oil change interval seems to be quite far from being ideal and having peace of mind on those high revving high output engine with 14000rpm redline and 3 quart sump. More bizarre to me is that the interval is the same with the 6000rpm redline 4 quart sump nc750 engine producing half the horsepower.I guess that honda doesn't care indeed if compression is lost after too many miles on a cbr, as long as the engine still works who is going to blame them,its a sports bike. This type of engine just seem to wear faster and this fact seems quite acceptable and logical.
On the other hand, this uoa proves that you really don't need to dump your oil sooner than 2 years (or longer) if you don t do short trips like me, all you need is change by the miles.
 
bonz

Very interesting to read your comments about the change in fan operation when you went to 20/50. Which grade do you compare to 15/50 or 10/40 when you mentioned thinner oil?

I really can't give you any comparison in my case. I bought my back in the winter during which the temperature stayed between -10 & +5! so the fans never worked. I also changed to a Mobil1 15/50 at the 600 miles services so I have no long term experience of 10/30

Your comment about the engine running cooler with thinner oil is interesting and I have come across it before so it is an option I may try in the future.
Having said that, I change my oil at 4000 miles and god knows what the viscosity loss over that period is
 
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