Prius burns oil, how to prevent from happening?

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Most people talked about how to fix the problem but you asked how to prevent it on the new car. I don't have the answer but at the miles you're at the motor is just whipped! Past 150k just be glad it runs good just by adding oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Nissan101
A 2009 with 240k+ miles wow thats a lot.

I have 148K on my 2009, my parents had a 50 mile commute with a decent amount of highway driving. I've been in newer(2015-2016) cars with 50K on them already, thanks to the miles an Uber/Lyft driver will rack up in a day.
 
Originally Posted By: Nissan101
A 2009 with 240k+ miles wow thats a lot.


I take day road trips just about every weekend (usually 200-500 mile round trip) and go down to california and back (2500 mile round trip) every few months to visit family.

Daily it puts on like 15 miles round trip since my wife was using it for nanny work only.

I dont recall how many k over 240 it was but the ONLY issue it had was the oil burning. This is probably the most reliable car I have ever owned (30+ vehicles)
 
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If a car burns a lot of oil as in your case, the rule of thumb is to use cheap oil. Otherwise, it's a waste.

Also, if this is being caused by valve-stem oil seals, going to the highest viscosity possible will dramatically help. Conversely, thinner the oil, worse it will be.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
M1 0-20 AFE is an outstanding oil. What oil was in these engines?


I believe it was just the exon made toyota 0w20 which I also hear is good.

Also, do you happen to know if the AFE contains trinuclear moly ? I know the toyota ones people say it does.
 
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
Thank you everyone for the replies. I just bought the car today and I do not believe it is burning oil yet...but it is a VERy common issue and the general consensus is that it is from the oil rings.


Simple, use TGMO 0w20 in the engine and nothing else.
 
I do run M1 EP 0w-20 in my HAH. I am not one to advocate for PAO or take part in the "fake synthetic" silliness.

But I am of the mind that in a vehicle where the engine routinely starts and stops, and where the engine can turn off on a whim, while cruising down the highway at 80 MPH, or immediately turn off after ascending a long, steep hill at sustained speed, I should run an oil that ensures that there is maximum oxidation control (grp III+ is almost as good as PAO but not quite) and highest resistance to decomposition / degradation under heat soak.

The prius may or may not be as aggressive with turning the engine on and off, and may have other design elements built in. Obviously a car that makes 240k miles doesn't owe much and is OK burning a quart/1k. But if you can be proactive, its not a bad idea. Not sure Id step to a 30wt or a 5w- or 10w- oil immediately, but Id look for the stouter 0w-20 oils with lower NOACK, higher HTHS, and more intrinsic oxidation resistance.
 
The Prius and a few others are known to be hard on oil.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in 0W-20 would be my choice,

I would suggest Rotella T6 in 5W-30, but that is not on shelves yet.

Rotella T5 Semi Synthetic 10W-30 may be a good inexpensive choice.
 
So you're running an oil that's mostly Grp IV while saying that you have no problems with Grp IIIs?
How much of the Riesling is left?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I do run M1 EP 0w-20 in my HAH. Not sure Id step to a 30wt or a 5w- or 10w- oil immediately, but Id look for the stouter 0w-20 oils with lower NOACK, higher HTHS, and more intrinsic oxidation resistance.
That should work. Correct viscosity oils move through the ringlands quicker, keeping them from burning up and leaving deposits behind. Thick oils dwell too long in the rings and get scorched. Synthetic basestocks and good anti-oxidants in M1 EP or even the newer M1 Annual Protection is the best chance at preventing ring sticking.
If all the consumption is via the valve stems, only a thicker oil will stop or slow that, but I'd bet this is the typical Toyota ring problem, so just use the correct viscosity 0w20 oil or the Ravenol 0w16.
 
OP===I'm sure you would get a lot more accurate responses----------if people only read your post first,before responding.\
My choice in your situation would be to use 7500 miles as a max OCI--there is no prize for getting the last stinking mile out of a drop of motor oil
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
https://priuschat.com/threads/excessive-oil-consumption-issue-resolved-by-toyota.165903/



I almost choked I was laughing so hard at the owner in that post. Owns a high mileage car, with more than 100K miles on it. Drives car, never checks oil. Warning light comes on, takes it to dealership. Dealership finds engine almost completely out of oil (due to consumption), hence the reason why the warning light came on. Owner talks to Toyota headquarters, who agrees to install a USED engine for $1600 cost to the owner. All of that because the owner is too lazy to pull a dipstick out every 1000 miles and add a quart of oil. There are some real IDIOTS out there in this world. $1600 buys a LOT of motor oil. How hard is it to keep a car topped up with oil? Shakes my head.
 
I am thinking of running M1 AFE for 5-7.5k OCI and hope that helps keep it from starting to burn...

I am also thinking of using 5w20 and 0w20's mixed half and half (I have a lot of both)
 
If it were my Prii, I'd run Red Line in a light grade. All synthetic (real) and stout ad pak. I'd prolly do annual changes depending on how many hours the engine actually ran...

I'd also toss in a 1/2 can of KREEN (Kano Labs, but not available in Cali ...
frown.gif
) so that it would scrub any forming deposits at the last month before change. It'll keep the ring lands as clean as any good solution out there, better than 99% of the snake oils.

Change the oil and the filter, new Red Line and run on
smile.gif
 
What do you think of Amsoil instead? I have a PC account and have access to it for a reasonable price...

I would get redline if I could find it for a decent price...
 
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