Brake bleeding with abs

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Getting courage to use my motive bleeder on our 08 Honda CRV. I was able to hold 20 psi for about 5 mins without any air leaks. Does the car have to be on to bleed the abs? The manual doesn't say.

I'm using clamps to hold down the universal adapter.

Thanks
 
from what I read you won't bleed the ABS pump unless you have a scan tool to activate it. Some people bleed the brakes and then take the car for a drive and activate the ABS once or twice then re-bleed. Thats probably what I will do since I have to exchange the brake fluid on the mazda next year. I always have doubts in my mind if the dealer techs will do this step or even do more than change the fluid in the reservoir.
 
Only had a handfull of cars actually require abs activation. Bmw,Mercedes and Lexus. Other than that a normal pedal bleed up to a motive pressure bleeder. The cars above I mentioned typically won't bleed the rear brakes without a scan tool period. The motive bleeder will work just fine for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Fastcompany
Only had a handfull of cars actually require abs activation. Bmw,Mercedes and Lexus. Other than that a normal pedal bleed up to a motive pressure bleeder. The cars above I mentioned typically won't bleed the rear brakes without a scan tool period. The motive bleeder will work just fine for you.

Awesome thank you.
 
You can bleed the brakes including ABS, however, you can’t let the master cylinder
Run empty, then you’ll have an ABS with air bubbles that’ll require a dealer scan tool
command to bleed out the air bubbles where it opens all the valves inside, etc. (at least for GM)
Bleed with the engine off / ignition key out.

I would not gravity bleed, air can get into the bleed fitting as it sits open, instead vacuum
bleed with a hand pump tool made for that. Of course make sure the master cylinder stays at the right level.

I do mine every 2 yrs, gets the wear materials out of the system including the ABS pump, runs clear now.
 
It depends on the individual ABS module. On my '97 Ford Taurus I had to change out the module. It has the normal two lines coming in and 4 lines going out. But the valves inside the module were normally open which means they flow was unimpeded through the module unless it was activated.

So when I took the module out I bent the two input lines up just a bit to keep the MC from draining. Then changed out the module and connected the lines again. Did a regular flush and was good to go.

Some of the newer ABS systems actually have a pump on the module to apply pressure to the wheel that it determines it needs more brake on. These do require a scanner to operate to flush.
 
Originally Posted By: Fastcompany
Only had a handfull of cars actually require abs activation. Bmw,Mercedes and Lexus. Other than that a normal pedal bleed up to a motive pressure bleeder. The cars above I mentioned typically won't bleed the rear brakes without a scan tool period. The motive bleeder will work just fine for you.

If it's a Lexus hybrid - you will need the TIS Techstream or similar scan tool to disable the brake-by-wire system to bleed the front brakes(after pulling the ABS relays), then using the BBW system to bleed the rear brakes and finally "refreshing" the brake fluid supply - same procedure as a Prius. Most Lexus models will bleed like a regular Toyota, dunno about models with VDIM.

Some GM products using Delco or Kelsey-Hayes ABS should be bled with Tech II or like - you can bleed without, it will be a lot harder(and possibly dangerous) trying to do so with the latter system used on GMT400/800s.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud


I would not gravity bleed, air can get into the bleed fitting as it sits open, instead vacuum
bleed with a hand pump tool made for that. Of course make sure the master cylinder stays at the right level.


And it wont get in using a hand held vacuum pump? Air will not get into the system from opening a bleed screw on a full system.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud


I would not gravity bleed, air can get into the bleed fitting as it sits open, instead vacuum
bleed with a hand pump tool made for that. Of course make sure the master cylinder stays at the right level.


And it wont get in using a hand held vacuum pump? Air will not get into the system from opening a bleed screw on a full system.



The trick is to get your flare nut wrench on the bleed screw, then the rubber bleed nipple and vac hose over the
bleed screw and pull vacuum before you open the bleed screw, then close the bleed screw as vacuum drops, pump some
more to create vacuum and open the screw again until you get enough old brake fluid out.

(I'm referring to hand held vacuum pumps for brakes with hoses, nipples and a collection bottle in a kit)

The idea is you always have vacuum applied before you open any bleed screw, therefore no air gets in.

While trying 'gravity bleeding' yrs ago I watched brake fluid drain down a clear hose, but as it ran out
slowly, I noticed air creeping up the hose, the fluid does not block the air all the way up the hose,
it moves to side and lets air pass.

That's why I don't do gravity bleed, if you want old fluid out, either vacuum or use pressure with a
pal stepping on the brake pedal while you work the bleed screws.
 
Motive Bleeder system is great. If you are able to hold 20psi, you are all set. Follow the factory recommended bleeding order and empty out as much of the old fluid in reservoir prior to your start.

ABS pump will not be involved, and will not be a problem provided you don't let the system suck air - by letting the fluid level get too low when one of the bleed screws is opened. Engine is off while you do the bleeding. What you will notice is that when you open the bleed screws the flow of fluid is much slower than it would have been in the pre-ABS days, my explanation is that the circuit is more restrictive.

My personal experience with Motive Bleeder is top notch, used in my Ford, VW and Nissan with no issues. I can tell you that I had a recent situation with my Flex that required the dealer to activate the ABS pump, but this was due to a caliper leak that allowed air to get into the system from reservoir - it had nothing to do with the Motive Bleeder system.
 
The Gen Coupe has Brembo quad pistons calipers. They gravity bleed really good. I usually take the bleeder screws out and put some Teflon paste on the threads so no air gets sucked in there.

I let the engine idle when bleeding the back brakes as there are restrictors in the lines.

I could use the engine vacuum too as it's idling. Hmmmmm
 
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud


The trick is to get your flare nut wrench on the bleed screw, then the rubber bleed nipple and vac hose over the
bleed screw and pull vacuum before you open the bleed screw, then close the bleed screw as vacuum drops, pump some
more to create vacuum and open the screw again until you get enough old brake fluid out.

(I'm referring to hand held vacuum pumps for brakes with hoses, nipples and a collection bottle in a kit)

The idea is you always have vacuum applied before you open any bleed screw, therefore no air gets in.

While trying 'gravity bleeding' yrs ago I watched brake fluid drain down a clear hose, but as it ran out
slowly, I noticed air creeping up the hose, the fluid does not block the air all the way up the hose,
it moves to side and lets air pass.

That's why I don't do gravity bleed, if you want old fluid out, either vacuum or use pressure with a
pal stepping on the brake pedal while you work the bleed screws.


It doesn't make any difference whatsoever if you have a vacuum on the bleeder or not, air will not go into the system by just opening the bleed screw.
Air can enter the hose from around the bleed screw threads into the hose but it doesn't go into the caliper.

There is nothing wrong with vacuum/pressure bleeders or speed bleed screws but gravity works fine as long as the vehicle doesn't use a floor mounted MC. The only drawback to gravity bleeding is it may take more time but as long as the pedal isn't pushed down or MC run dry its easy, clean and idiot proof.
 
I think some early 90s Hondas required a special procedure for ABS bleeding, but your 08 CRV probably doesn't
smile.gif
 
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