Break in...kind of

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First post, sorry if this subject has been discussed hundreds of times. I need an oil recommendation for a break in of sorts. The situation is this. Ford 5.4 modular motor, boosted (S/C). Fairly fresh rebuild, bored .030" over. Builder filled with 15w40 semi-syn when he finished the build. Told me to drive it home, approximately 25 miles, then change the oil to 5w20 of any brand I liked. I filled with Motorcraft 5w30 semi-syn and the truck leaked from the rear main, the oil cooler housing and the passenger side head oil gallery plug. Called the builder, he towed back to his shop, replaced the rear main, cooler gasket and sealed the gallery plug. Told me to keep using the same oil, no problem.

I was having consumption issues, so went to 5w30, which the builder said was fine. The motor has approximately 400-500 miles on it now and is using oil like crazy. Like 1 qt every 120 miles or so. There are no visible leaks anywhere. I went to M1 5w30 and it got worse. I called the builder back, he said the rings apparently had not seat yet and could take several thousand miles for that to take place. He said to switch to a conventional oil until it stops consuming oil and the rings seat fully. He said by using a synthetic, or even semi synthetic, the rings won't set.

I know the logical question will be about the PCV valve. There is none. It is vented to a filtered catch can off each valve cover. That is, each cover has it's own can. These setups have a tendency to draw oil into the intake through the PCV system. Builder suggested the breathers until it was all broken in.

So essentially, my question is this. In order to get these rings seated, which oil would be recommend and what weight? He suggested staying at 5w20-5w30 but said could go to 15w40. I'm not so sure of that, as I had understood the Ford mod motors needed a bit lighter weight oil for the timing chain setup. I was thinking just plain Pennzoil 5w30, or Castrol GTX. Havoline isn't available in my area and from reading this site, those seem to be the main 3 looked upon as good oil. 30wt break in oil is a no go. Any help and guidance appreciated.
 
A quart in 120 miles? No oil will fix that, nor will time. Sorry to say.

The engine will likely need to come apart again.
 
Forget about breaking in the rings now that time has long passed. No offense but the builder sound like he is scratching trying to figure out how to get out of this one without rebuilding it again properly which from you post is exactly what it needs.
I have no idea how it done but ring spacing error or incorrect sizing sounds like a definite possibility
 
Or installing rings upside down or in the incorrect order (oil control rings) could also cause this.
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Or installing rings upside down or in the incorrect order (oil control rings) could also cause this.


Or not 90 degrees apart
 
Holy cow. Fresh rebuild,leaks everywhere,gulping down oil. Time for a full refund and to find another shop.
 
His warranty has long expired as well. If this has to be done, it is on me again. The way it is I suppose.

Anyway, how would I verify? The vehicle doesn't smoke at all, other than from the filters off the covers. which every vented setup I've seen does the same. I did a compression test a month ago, all cylinders are within 3psi of one another.Not saying anyone here is wrong, I was really kind of worried about that anyway. Was hoping I could avoid it and he was right, in that the rings just hadn't set properly.

Thanks
 
These engines MUST USE A VERY SPECIFIC procedure when boring and honing the cylinder walls. A very large deck p;late (3"-4' thick) must be bolted in place of the cylinder head (That's just the start of the procedure) and very precise order followed.

I'm willing to bet the bores are not round.

No oil will fix this.

At .030" over, that block is now junk.

Another block will be needed, then PROPERLY bored to fit your pistons.
 
Maybe pour in a few bottles of Restore (doesn't it claim to fill in the spaces of worn cylinder walls?). Just kidding
wink.gif
 
That was mess in and of itself. The builder sent my block to be bored .020" over, the machine shop went .030" over, so of course he had to send the .020 pistons and rings back and get .030" The entire build was a mess and took almost a year to do. Mix ups and screw ups with the machine shop. I guess they eventually went through 3 blocks and two machine shops because of the screw ups.

For now, I have no choice other than to drive it. Might as well just put supertech in it and keep feeding it.
 
If it's using that bad,maybe a nearby Autozone has some VR1 SAE60 on clearance. Wasn't it like a buck a quart?
 
I hate to sound stereotypically American, but it's time to sure him into the dirt.

If it was warrantied, and he told you to ignore the consumption until past the warranty, he was just pushing you off until he didn't have to be responsible. An experienced engine rebuilder should know that what you experienced is abnormal.
 
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Beat the engine up like it owes you money.


It does, technically speaking.
smirk.gif


Honestly OP I'd consider a replacement engine. One from a reputable source with a warranty.
120miles per liter of oil is an aweful lot to consume.
 
I think the builder screwed something up. Rings installed incorrectly, wrong part, possibly upside down, or with the gaps lined up instead of staggered. As others mentioned no oil or break in is going to help.
 
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Beat the engine up like it owes you money.


It does, technically speaking.
smirk.gif


Honestly OP I'd consider a replacement engine. One from a reputable source with a warranty.
120miles per liter of oil is an aweful lot to consume.


I'd like to do that. However, having spent $several thousand having this one rebuilt. A new short block for these run around 6K. I think I'll just drive it til it blows. Runs pretty strong as it is. I'm still confused though. If it's not leaking and not filling up the catch cans as it would if it was blow by, where is it going? Plugs are all clean and not oil fouled. I was assuming it was just evaporating so to speak because of the volatility or something. As you can see, I'm not well versed in oil.
 
That many problems of that severity makes me distrust the builder more than anything. Why did he fill it with 15/40 and tell you to go to a 5w20/30 after so short a time? Was it just what he had on hand, or what? And if rings aren't going to seat with synthetic oil, that needed to be stated and allowed for before the engine was ever started, not after a few hundred miles (or more) when it doesn't stop burning oil.

I'm a proponent of putting new engines under substantial, momentary load a time or two before very many miles at all. It may not do any good at this point, but it may not hurt. Warm it up real good and run a drag pass or two.
 
and if you are running with cats, if you can, remove the cats before they are damaged beyond repair by the phosphorous in the oil you are burning
Steve
 
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