What's the difference with Euro Spec oils?

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Originally Posted By: FowVay
Mitch, I don't think that applies to any place outside of Germany (just one of many European countries) and I don't know of many cars that can cruise at 210 MPH (3 x 70mph).

You don't go to Europe very often I gather. With tiny engines, incredibly expensive fuel and insurance costs, and horribly crowded highways, it isn't the driving Mecca that people think.

True, but generally speed limit is not as enforced as here. What is enforced ULIKE in the U.S. is passing on the right, tailgating and of course, cruising in the left lane. Europe is still Mecca for driving because people actually know how to drive.
 
Driving 20km/h over the limit is a 35€ fine in Germany. 10km over is 15€ (in the open country; speeding within settlements is a bit more expensive). (21km/h over the limit means you get "points", and at 8 points, you loose your license. You can also loose your license with a single offense, that is repetedly speeding more than 25km/h over the limit, or running red lights, for example) You have 3% measurement error (but minimum 3km/h) on your side, which means everybody under the age of 85 goes 13km/h over the limit, and the more daring ones precisely 23km/h.


So, compared to other countries, speeding is cheap in Germany. And then, we still have some unrestricted patches in the Autobahn network. But even on the restricted ones, whether people keep to the limit or view it as a friendly suggestion depends heavily on the economic strength of the region. Speed traps in economically healthy Bavaria are extremely rare; in communist Brandenburg, they put a speed camera behind every tree. And even worse, they post absolutely ridiculous speed limits everywhere. Like 70km/h on country roads without any curves. Or 120km/h on a completely straight Autobahn. Apparently straight and level roads are dangerous. Or lucrative.

So, whether driving is fun or enjoyable depends a lot on where you drive. But, when I stat at the right time of day and avoid traffic, I can still get from Berlin to Munich in 4h10min. Legally. Ah well, almost legally. That is roughly obeyeing speed limits, speeding in a very controlled manner that does not endanger the driving license or incurs to many costly fees. Four hours 10 minutes for 580km is an average speed of ~140km/h. Door to door, and including one to two refueling stops.
Speed in constructions zones vary from 60 (commies!) to 80 (standard) and 100km/h (on very few stretches in Bavaria with good conditions). And there are a whole lot of speed limits and construction/road work zones on this route... so to get an average speed of 140km/h or greater, you have to be at or above 200km/h practically everywhere where there is no speed limit.
Last weekend, I was not driving myself, but riding shotgun with another guy, who also commutes on this route. 18 year old Opel Omega, 2.2 liter I4 with 465.000km on the clock, and full throttle all the way. Whenever the most beautiful traffic sign in the world occured, the rev counter needle jumped above 5000rpm and stayed there. Yes, that works fine, and no, that does not seem to hurt the engine.

No, you should NOT try that with an ILSAC oil.
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But edyvw is wrong. This is not paradise. We have way to many idiots on the road. When you want to go fast safely, you have to go when nobody elese is on the road.
 
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Originally Posted By: turboseize
Driving 20km/h over the limit is a 35€ fine in Germany. 10km over is 15€ (in the open country; speeding within settlements is a bit more expensive). (21km/h over the limit means you get "points", and at 8 points, you loose your license. You can also loose your license with a single offense, that is repetedly speeding more than 25km/h over the limit, or running red lights, for example) You have 3% measurement error (but minimum 3km/h) on your side, which means everybody under the age of 85 goes 13km/h over the limit, and the more daring ones precisely 23km/h.


So, compared to other countries, speeding is cheap in Germany. And then, we still have some unrestricted patches in the Autobahn network. But even on the restricted ones, whether people keep to the limit or view it as a friendly suggestion depends heavily on the economic strength of the region. Speed traps in economically healthy Bavaria are extremely rare; in communist Brandenburg, they put a speed camera behind every tree. And even worse, they post absolutely ridiculous speed limits everywhere. Like 70km/h on country roads without any curves. Or 120km/h on a completely straight Autobahn. Apparently straight and level roads are dangerous. Or lucrative.

So, whether driving is fun or enjoyable depends a lot on where you drive. But, when I stat at the right time of day and avoid traffic, I can still get from Berlin to Munich in 4h10min. Legally. Ah well, almost legally. That is roughly obeyeing speed limits, speeding in a very controlled manner that does not endanger the driving license or incurs to many costly fees. Four hours 10 minutes for 580km is an average speed of ~140km/h. Door to door, and including one to two refueling stops.
Speed in constructions zones vary from 60 (commies!) to 80 (standard) and 100km/h (on very few stretches in Bavaria with good conditions). And there are a whole lot of speed limits and construction/road work zones on this route... so to get an average speed of 140km/h or greater, you have to be at or above 200km/h practically everywhere where there is no speed limit.
Last weekend, I was not driving myself, but riding shotgun with another guy, who also commutes on this route. 18 year old Opel Omega, 2.2 liter I4 with 465.000km on the clock, and full throttle all the way. Whenever the most beautiful traffic sign in the world occured, the rev counter needle jumped above 5000rpm and stayed there. Yes, that works fine, and no, that does not seem to hurt the engine.

No, you should NOT try that with an ILSAC oil.
cool.gif




But edyvw is wrong. This is not paradise. We have way to many idiots on the road. When you want to go fast safely, you have to go when nobody elese is on the road.

Do not quote me literally. I spent a lot of time on European roads, especially Germany. Every country has idiots, but there are substantial differences between the U.S. where people drive 65mph in left lane where speed limit is 75mph, creating traffic to be safe, while driving on 4 completely worn out tires.
EU is much more regulated when it comes to driving in general, and to obtain DL requires much more education then in the U.S.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Every country has idiots, but there are substantial differences between the U.S. where people drive 65mph in left lane where speed limit is 75mph, creating traffic to be safe, while driving on 4 completely worn out tires.

You should try here, where people struggle to merge onto the freeway, when I'm the only person on the freeway for 1 km in either direction. Sheesh.
 
At least there's an excuse there, or anywhere else except here. I'm not sure why when there's only me and another person for miles, someone needs my assistance to get on the freeway.
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Originally Posted By: Garak
At least there's an excuse there, or anywhere else except here. I'm not sure why when there's only me and another person for miles, someone needs my assistance to get on the freeway.
wink.gif



Ugh. Can't agree with you more. Even worse stuck behind someone who drives up the on-ramp at half the highway speed and refuses to accelerate.
 
Across the border in Switzerland is an entirely different mindset. The Gestapo and Stasi didn't die. They became traffic police in the Scandanavian countries and Switzerland.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FowVay
Mitch, I don't think that applies to any place outside of Germany (just one of many European countries) and I don't know of many cars that can cruise at 210 MPH (3 x 70mph).

You don't go to Europe very often I gather. With tiny engines, incredibly expensive fuel and insurance costs, and horribly crowded highways, it isn't the driving Mecca that people think.


For that matter, once you get out of the crowded coastal and northern tier areas of this country, you can drive quite fast for hours on end and no one seems too concerned about it.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
While they aren't guaranteed to be higher quality than non-euro spec'd oils (though they usually are), you can rest assured knowing they passed the most rigorous tests out there for oils. They will certainly be OK (and probably better) for your engine.

And for what it's worth, LL-04 is subject to the same wear protection, cleanliness, etc. as LL-01 oils (which is regarded as the toughest certification to pass).


What happened to BMW's recommendation NOT to use LL-04 oils outside of Europe in spark ignition BMWs? Something to do with higher sulfur content in gasoline outside of the EU causing compatibility issues? In other words LL-04 oils could only be used in diesel BMWs outside the EU per their recommendation.
 
Originally Posted By: f355spider
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
While they aren't guaranteed to be higher quality than non-euro spec'd oils (though they usually are), you can rest assured knowing they passed the most rigorous tests out there for oils. They will certainly be OK (and probably better) for your engine.

And for what it's worth, LL-04 is subject to the same wear protection, cleanliness, etc. as LL-01 oils (which is regarded as the toughest certification to pass).


What happened to BMW's recommendation NOT to use LL-04 oils outside of Europe in spark ignition BMWs? Something to do with higher sulfur content in gasoline outside of the EU causing compatibility issues? In other words LL-04 oils could only be used in diesel BMWs outside the EU per their recommendation.

Yes, LL-04 should not be used in gasoline engines outside Europe. It is sulfur content (and generally quality) in gas.
But that does not have anything to do with wear requirements under prescribed conditions.
 
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Any euro spec oil is more eco friendly and does not necessarily offer better protection.

I would choose the oil by higher base oil (group IV) and oil viscosity for your engine.
 
Originally Posted By: S50b32
Any euro spec oil is more eco friendly and does not necessarily offer better protection.

I would choose the oil by higher base oil (group IV) and oil viscosity for your engine.

So base composition and viscosity are the most important? What about required specifications?
 
Originally Posted By: S50b32
Any euro spec oil is more eco friendly and does not necessarily offer better protection.

I would choose the oil by higher base oil (group IV) and oil viscosity for your engine.


Wait, what?
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: S50b32
Any euro spec oil is more eco friendly and does not necessarily offer better protection.

I would choose the oil by higher base oil (group IV) and oil viscosity for your engine.

So base composition and viscosity are the most important? What about required specifications?


I am no expert in oil, but no carnot engine is fundamentally different in its mechanism. Major difference is how the oil path is designed & what standard pressure is on the engine. polyoelifin enables stability at wide range of temps while ester works to provide protective films for the internals of the engine. Any high quality group IV&V oil(sometimes too ahead and not approved, you choose the right brand) should meet specified ACEA/API rating and will be good for your engine.

I care more about oil shearing than anything since I race; it might be a different case for daily drivers but oil shearing is #1 reason for early wear and I give rats [censored] about high OCI since I change every 3k-4k km.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: S50b32
Any euro spec oil is more eco friendly and does not necessarily offer better protection.

I would choose the oil by higher base oil (group IV) and oil viscosity for your engine.


Wait, what?


Well I speculated with all this environment hype in EU, the recent "euro spec" would inevitably follow higher OCI(25,000KM or 1 year I believe?) which I think is a stretch. Changing oil early is never bad for your engine.
 
Originally Posted By: S50b32
I am no expert in oil, but no carnot engine is fundamentally different in its mechanism. Major difference is how the oil path is designed & what standard pressure is on the engine. polyoelifin enables stability at wide range of temps while ester works to provide protective films for the internals of the engine. Any high quality group IV&V oil(sometimes too ahead and not approved, you choose the right brand) should meet specified ACEA/API rating and will be good for your engine.

I care more about oil shearing than anything since I race; it might be a different case for daily drivers but oil shearing is #1 reason for early wear and I give rats [censored] about high OCI since I change every 3k-4k km.

It has been shown over and over again that within reason a focus on base stock is not indicative of an oil's performance. ExxonMobil showed a long time ago that their Group III Visom product was virtually equal to PAO and actually surpassed the performance of PAO in some aspects (oxidation resistance) especially when blended with a minority percentage of PAO. It is foolish to think that just because an oil has a certain base stock but no approvals it will automatically meet some relevant rating.

The only thing that demonstrates a capability to meet a specification is to actually carry that specification.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: S50b32
I am no expert in oil, but no carnot engine is fundamentally different in its mechanism. Major difference is how the oil path is designed & what standard pressure is on the engine. polyoelifin enables stability at wide range of temps while ester works to provide protective films for the internals of the engine. Any high quality group IV&V oil(sometimes too ahead and not approved, you choose the right brand) should meet specified ACEA/API rating and will be good for your engine.

I care more about oil shearing than anything since I race; it might be a different case for daily drivers but oil shearing is #1 reason for early wear and I give rats [censored] about high OCI since I change every 3k-4k km.

It has been shown over and over again that within reason a focus on base stock is not indicative of an oil's performance. ExxonMobil showed a long time ago that their Group III Visom product was virtually equal to PAO and actually surpassed the performance of PAO in some aspects (oxidation resistance) especially when blended with a minority percentage of PAO. It is foolish to think that just because an oil has a certain base stock but no approvals it will automatically meet some relevant rating.

The only thing that demonstrates a capability to meet a specification is to actually carry that specification.


I agree that different chemical composition may be used to achieve similar results in "some" areas.
So which oil fares better in track use? I've used redline,motul, castrol, shell, and mobil1 and none has held as well as redline/motul after an oil analysis in terms of bearing wear,
although mobil1 came closest in terms of oil shearing percentage. Shell ultra helix for example was a piece of you know what after 30 laps of 50 sec circuit.
No oil temp/pressure change with redline, so I'll stick to this oil. If you are worried about oxidation, shorten the OCI. Simple. Castrol TWS 10w-60 is known for great performance around track, and I am quite certain it has a high percentage of PAO to maintain that grade. So I don't know what performance "indication" you are referring to.
 
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I also am no expert, but for track use I would say stick with what you're doing. I wouldn't necessarily use a street oil on a track either. But most individuals here aren't racing and for us that's a different story. For us a manufacturer's required specification and the oils that actually carry them are key.
 
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