Oh 1 thing. Some engines are just bad . I used to work for caddy and they had an engine the chain would stretch when it was [censored] near new. Revised that part number multiple times. That's just too small of a chain I guess for the cams and springs they needed to move.
What a painful job this is....
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Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
I am guessing the owner of this piece of junk spent a lot of time and effort looking for the cheapest oil he could find and stretching out OCIs to the last possible day and mile. Probably spent most of his oil change money on UOAs telling him everything was great. Great savings in the end for sure.
On that note, I keep mentioning that a 30 viscosity oil and minimal particulate count is required for maximum chain life. In other words, a quality oil with sufficient viscosity and frequent changes. Doing this eliminates chain related problems.
Pin loading on timing and balancer chains is very high and ultra low viscosity oils allow particulates to accelerate wear. In industrial settings where chain wear cannot be tolerated, 30 viscosity and near zero particulates is the norm. It really is no different inside an engine.
I am guessing the owner of this piece of junk spent a lot of time and effort looking for the cheapest oil he could find and stretching out OCIs to the last possible day and mile. Probably spent most of his oil change money on UOAs telling him everything was great. Great savings in the end for sure.
On that note, I keep mentioning that a 30 viscosity oil and minimal particulate count is required for maximum chain life. In other words, a quality oil with sufficient viscosity and frequent changes. Doing this eliminates chain related problems.
Pin loading on timing and balancer chains is very high and ultra low viscosity oils allow particulates to accelerate wear. In industrial settings where chain wear cannot be tolerated, 30 viscosity and near zero particulates is the norm. It really is no different inside an engine.
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Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
The engineers obviously don't repair engines for a living so they will do things that make it difficult for the DIYer.
.................
If you think the engineers are sole responsible for stuff like this, you are woefully ignorant of engineering practices.
The engineers obviously don't repair engines for a living so they will do things that make it difficult for the DIYer.
.................
If you think the engineers are sole responsible for stuff like this, you are woefully ignorant of engineering practices.
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
The engineers obviously don't repair engines for a living so they will do things that make it difficult for the DIYer.
LOL
The reality is engineers will design something but are usually overridden by the bean counters. They don't intentionally make things difficult for the DIY'er, although it may seem that way. It is usually to save a few cents per vehicle by eliminating something, like a transmission drain plug.
The engineers obviously don't repair engines for a living so they will do things that make it difficult for the DIYer.
LOL
The reality is engineers will design something but are usually overridden by the bean counters. They don't intentionally make things difficult for the DIY'er, although it may seem that way. It is usually to save a few cents per vehicle by eliminating something, like a transmission drain plug.
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I don't believe in over engineering. It's either stupidity or brilliantly designed.
Sometimes its cheaper to reuse car parts in a different model where the part is far better than required than it is to design and productionize a similar, but only engineered to as-required part from new.
I don't believe in over engineering. It's either stupidity or brilliantly designed.
Sometimes its cheaper to reuse car parts in a different model where the part is far better than required than it is to design and productionize a similar, but only engineered to as-required part from new.
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Waiting for the anti timing belt folks to chime in!!!!
Happily paid $600 recently for a timing belt and drive belt change on my 07 MDX at 140k.
My local indy does timing belts on
the Camry 14s which use them for 200 bucks, WITH a new water pump. They throw in a power steering belt at cost if needed. It's why I LIKE older Toyotas. I wouldn't be very happy paying 600. For less than that I can get a new oil pump installed as well. The pumps seldom give trouble but oil pump gaskets can, so if they are IN there, why not.
Several years ago doing a VW TDi TB for under $700 was a red flag. 5 hours min, a number of pricy parts (at least $300).
Did my 2.2 for $200 ($180 in parts and some coolant) and about 10 hours. I bet next time I'd have it around 5 hours. Even doing the oil pump o-ring.
I don't see $600 as being that bad of a price, if it's half a day of work. Doesn't come up that often.
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Waiting for the anti timing belt folks to chime in!!!!
Happily paid $600 recently for a timing belt and drive belt change on my 07 MDX at 140k.
My local indy does timing belts on
the Camry 14s which use them for 200 bucks, WITH a new water pump. They throw in a power steering belt at cost if needed. It's why I LIKE older Toyotas. I wouldn't be very happy paying 600. For less than that I can get a new oil pump installed as well. The pumps seldom give trouble but oil pump gaskets can, so if they are IN there, why not.
Several years ago doing a VW TDi TB for under $700 was a red flag. 5 hours min, a number of pricy parts (at least $300).
Did my 2.2 for $200 ($180 in parts and some coolant) and about 10 hours. I bet next time I'd have it around 5 hours. Even doing the oil pump o-ring.
I don't see $600 as being that bad of a price, if it's half a day of work. Doesn't come up that often.
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