'13 F150 3.5 EB FF 5w-30, oil 4827, engine 4827

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Needs a few more long high RPM (4,000+ RPMS 20+ minutes) to keep the oil in better condition.


Where are you driving 4,000+ rpms for 20+ minutes w/o breaking the law or possibly damaging an automatic transmission using a low gear? It certainly can't be done where I live. Any documentation that this process is a fix for DI issues?


Really? Where is a gear implied anywhere. Do it in first at 30mph if you want. Just keep the RPMs up. It is very simple.


Huge difference in air flow running 4K at 100mph and 30mph for 20+ min.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Very good fuel numbers for this engine.

Early miles are always a bit scary but those numbers will trend downwards fast...


Uh, no. You can ignore the fuel % number on a blackstone report. Look at the viscosity and flash point. This oil has SEVERE fuel dilution issues.

Needs a few more long high RPM (4,000+ RPMS 20+ minutes) to keep the oil in better condition.


Regardless of what you think of Blackstone, there is no hard evidence that the alleged fuel dilution hurts anything at all anyway.

And if a fellow wanted to heat up the oil it's LOAD that does that. At 4 grand in a lower gear there is almost no loading, you need a much taller ratio to load the engine in order to generate the heat you seem to think it needs.

Perhaps some here remember the tune on these has been improved since their introduction, yet higher performance engines almost always have fuel dilution even without forced induction.

Much ado about nuttin'.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Sounds like a great way to ruin a transmission to me. You initially said run 4,000+ rpms for 20 minutes. Ok so 4+K rpms in first gear for 20 minutes. That should get the ATF nice and hot, hotter than it should be, which is not good, not to mention any other damage that could occur. A stick maybe, an AT, no thanks. Besides where's the proof that it will help with DI issues.

Sorry I think you'll do more harm than good, especially if this is a procedure that has to be repeated from time to time as part of some kind of maintenance procedure.


Wow. If that is what you really think, maybe you should move on from this topic and refrain from asking questions on it later. Sarcasm is clearly lost on you and you don't realize that 55mph+ highways are available everywhere in the USA. It really isn't complicated.

EDIT: This got me intrigued so I looked up VW/Audi's requirements for this method and they do not list a minimum gear or speed, just RPMs and time limit. Maybe they know something others don't.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Sounds like a great way to ruin a transmission to me. You initially said run 4,000+ rpms for 20 minutes. Ok so 4+K rpms in first gear for 20 minutes. That should get the ATF nice and hot, hotter than it should be, which is not good, not to mention any other damage that could occur. A stick maybe, an AT, no thanks. Besides where's the proof that it will help with DI issues.

Sorry I think you'll do more harm than good, especially if this is a procedure that has to be repeated from time to time as part of some kind of maintenance procedure.


Wow. If that is what you really think, maybe you should move on from this topic and refrain from asking questions on it later. Sarcasm is clearly lost on you and you don't realize that 55mph+ highways are available everywhere in the USA. It really isn't complicated.

EDIT: This got me intrigued so I looked up VW/Audi's requirements for this method and they do not list a minimum gear or speed, just RPMs and time limit. Maybe they know something others don't.


You were the person suggesting using first gear for 20+ minutes not me. You also mentioned 4,000+ rpms. I'm fully aware of speed limits, its the transmission I'm concerned with following your advise. You seem to be conveniently skipping over that.

Originally Posted By: badtlc

Really? Where is a gear implied anywhere. Do it in first at 30mph if you want. Just keep the RPMs up. It is very simple.


Is 30 mph in first going to give you the desired 4,000+ rpms you mentioned here? I guess it depends. Ask any tranny guy if 4,000+ rpms in first for 20+ minutes is a good practice that's all. Seems to me like a lousy fix that can lead to other problems, especially when done on a regular basis as a maintenance procedure.

Originally Posted By: badtlc


Needs a few more long high RPM (4,000+ RPMS 20+ minutes) to keep the oil in better condition.

 

[Brian123]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint


You were the person suggesting using first gear for 20+ minutes not me. You also mentioned 4,000+ rpms. I'm fully aware of speed limits, its the transmission I'm concerned with following your advise. You seem to be conveniently skipping over that.

Originally Posted By: badtlc

Really? Where is a gear implied anywhere. Do it in first at 30mph if you want. Just keep the RPMs up. It is very simple.


Is 30 mph in first going to give you the desired 4,000+ rpms you mentioned here? I guess it depends. Ask any tranny guy if 4,000+ rpms in first for 20+ minutes is a good practice that's all. Seems to me like a lousy fix that can lead to other problems, especially when done on a regular basis as a maintenance procedure.

Originally Posted By: badtlc


Needs a few more long high RPM (4,000+ RPMS 20+ minutes) to keep the oil in better condition.


Great site, glad I could join. I agree Demar, 4000 rpms for 20 minutes in first, I wouldn't do it either. I wouldn't even try it in 2nd.

 

[Coprolite]

Volk, I have the oil from the last drain. From previous discussions any UOA during break in (
Regarding the 80%, the most miles the oil will be able to have on it would be 8099 if it was immediately reset and hit the highway for continuous running. There are hard coded limits of 10k and 1 year in the iolm. Other variables influence the iolm to shorten the remaining life. I found it quite interesting to watch. If I lost some points due to time sitting in the driveway, they could be clawed back with a spurt of driving. In other words, during continuous driving it would tick over every 100 miles. The only time it would exceed 100 would be after some points were lost on a time basis. It must consider a floating block of time in the calculation.

 

[joemac]

Several oil changes and samples since the original.

Code:


05/17/13 00 Factory Fill Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend

11/09/13 4,827 Oil Change Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 synthetic, Motorcraft FL-500s

05/31/14 10,733 Oil Change Pennzoil Platinum Plus 5w-30 synthetic, Bosch 3502

12/24/14 17,880 Oil Change Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 synthetic, STP S10590

08/13/15 26,802 Oil Change Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30, Motorcraft FL-500s

07/03/16 36,346 Oil Change Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30, AC Delco PF63

UOA Results

 

[bigt61]

Thanks for the updates - nice UOA trends to compare. Viscosity held up on that last change.

 

[Onug]

Did you change your driving routine during the last cycle? I find it interesting that the same oil used on previous cycles didn't sheer down this time around. Even with more miles and continued fuel dilution. Plus, the wear metals seemed to jump higher that the additional 600 miles would suggest.

 

[joemac]

I took note of the viscosity unexpected rise as well.

Likely fewer short trips, fewer warm up cycles. Did do one 3k trip on that change. The OEM calibration is overly aggressive on fuel during warm-up. Ford has a TSB to address the issue. Mine has not been serviced for that yet.

So many variables. Could be the filter, might go the STP or the Bosch. Thinking about going with either Havoline ProDS, or Castrol Edge this next time around for comparison sake.

 

[Onug]

Originally Posted By: joemac
I took note of the viscosity unexpected rise as well.

Likely fewer short trips, fewer warm up cycles. Did do one 3k trip on that change. The OEM calibration is overly aggressive on fuel during warm-up. Ford has a TSB to address the issue. Mine has not been serviced for that yet.

So many variables. Could be the filter, might go the STP or the Bosch. Thinking about going with either Havoline ProDS, or Castrol Edge this next time around for comparison sake.


You've got a low mileage truck there, so it might be all the short trips. I always auto-start my truck and haven't had any obvious fuel dilution issues yet. But I just pasted 19,000 miles and will have the most current programming for the engine.

You're right; so many variables and hard to narrow it down on the one sample. Could be an outlier sample or a new normal. I'm hoping it isn't the start of sludge. Seems highly unlikely given the relatively low mileage, but I'm still learning about all this stuff. Maybe one of the forum experts will chime in and educate us...

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: joemac
I took note of the viscosity unexpected rise as well.

A multigrade engine oil in 5W30 typically shears thinning initially, more so with turbo and certain engine designs.

In this case, its KV@100*C bottomed as in a typical V or U shape graph ,and subsequently base oil oxidation and coagulating insolubles phenomena sets in resulting in increasing KV@100*C trending.

This base oil oxidation ,short trips and more frequent cold starts may contribute to higher corrosion wear in higher Fe ppm in relation to its residual depleting add packs performance.

Just my speculation.

 

[4WD]

Not much - with early to rise torque - the EB's can get through the gears and back down to 1500 RPM's often - I have to put it in paddle shift mode about once a week to scratch the CBU itch (real or in my mind).