How big of a boom can I expect?

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My buddy and I are finishing up the lower intake job on his 4300 vortec.

We ensured that we cleaned all the dirt and debris around the Lower before removing it. However quite a bit of debris fell down into the lifter valley. It has a direct route to the cam. He decided not to bother cleaning any of it up and instead put the lower back on.

How much longer you think this puppy will run.
 
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Probably longer than you want it to.
GM cars will run hurt longer than most cars run at all.
If you got a few pieces of dirt in the lifter valley, they will drop down into the pan when drain oil returns to the sump. If the pieces are too heavy, they will stay in the bottom of the pan. If they are light, they will be churned up by the rotating assembly, and possibly scratch the cylinder walls. Some pieces will be picked up by the oil pump, if they get through the inlet screen, and will be caught by the oil filter. I think the chances of the engine boing BOOM or immediately seizing up are very small.
 
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The pieces I saw are about the size of my pinky nail, leaves and possible acorn shells.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Probably longer than you want it to.
GM cars will run hurt longer than most cars run at all.


I can say fore sure that...at least for the GM engines we see in Europe. That ain't true. I don't know about the engines you get in the US
 
Why would you go to all the trouble of doing a lower intake job and then not bother cleaning out the debris? Makes no sense to me at all.
 
That tough-GM statement should have been directed toward slant 6 Chryslers and Windsor Ford V8s.There are many GM engines the bean counters got to and caused ongoing issues.Like Pontiac 301s breaking rods,and Olds 307s cracking the aluminum rocker "bridges".(and 2.8 lower end issues,2.5 roughness,3300 Buick oil pump failures,the seemingly endless small block failure rate in vintage models,5.3/4.8 intake gasket leakage,overheating Corvair engines,seizing/oil burning Vega 2300s,the complicated disaster of the "Twin Dual Cam" V6,head gasket popping Opel/Sunbird 1.8/2.0 OHC,Cadillac V864,Cadillac HT4100...etc).
 
Well it fired up but the timing is off. Time to open up another can of worms
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
That tough-GM statement should have been directed toward slant 6 Chryslers and Windsor Ford V8s.There are many GM engines the bean counters got to and caused ongoing issues.Like Pontiac 301s breaking rods,and Olds 307s cracking the aluminum rocker "bridges".(and 2.8 lower end issues,2.5 roughness,3300 Buick oil pump failures,the seemingly endless small block failure rate in vintage models,5.3/4.8 intake gasket leakage,overheating Corvair engines,seizing/oil burning Vega 2300s,the complicated disaster of the "Twin Dual Cam" V6,head gasket popping Opel/Sunbird 1.8/2.0 OHC,Cadillac V864,Cadillac HT4100...etc).


how dare you speak against the Vega. or the 80s quad 4 olds that shook you to death
what about the 4 6 8 diesels and the chevette crank pulley bolts
 
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Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Well it fired up but the timing is off. Time to open up another can of worms



Its very easy to get these distributors in a tooth off, is it a vortec? Hard to get the plug wires out of order with those caps.
Find the procedure and follow it to get the distributor in right, if vortec there is very little adjustment to the timing, you just have to get it in on the right gear tooth with the rotor pointed at number one. BTDT
 
We've moved cyl 1 TDC, set and installed distributor, re-checked cyl 1 TDC, rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire. No start. Rotated cap 180, still no start.

Car isn't backfiring or missing, seems like a no spark issue.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
That tough-GM statement should have been directed toward slant 6 Chryslers and Windsor Ford V8s.There are many GM engines the bean counters got to and caused ongoing issues.Like Pontiac 301s breaking rods,and Olds 307s cracking the aluminum rocker "bridges".(and 2.8 lower end issues,2.5 roughness,3300 Buick oil pump failures,the seemingly endless small block failure rate in vintage models,5.3/4.8 intake gasket leakage,overheating Corvair engines,seizing/oil burning Vega 2300s,the complicated disaster of the "Twin Dual Cam" V6,head gasket popping Opel/Sunbird 1.8/2.0 OHC,Cadillac V864,Cadillac HT4100...etc).
Tell that to all the countless sbc and ls swaps all over the country. They're literally in almost any car or truck you can think of. Some are pulled in a junkyard and they slap a turbo on them. Stock internals getting all the boost and they don't care. There's also a ton of cars with BBC's. YouTube and google will find you thousands of examples.
 
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Double checked the installation procedure. Used alignment marks on the crank pulley and front cover to find CYL 1 TDC. Aligned the marks on the distributor, installed it and ensured it was splined to the oil pump. According to numerous videos since this distributor works on both the 4.3 V6 and 5.0/5.7 V8s. Once the timing is set for the 4.3 the rotor points at the 6, or the 8 for the V8 models.

Timing is definitely correct but we have no spark. I told him yesterday when he used plug boot pliers to pull the wires he was going apeshit on them and broke the plastic surrounding the contact points for the spark plug wires, large areas are only insulated by the boot and boot only.

That would explain the no spark issue. This is why this friend watches when I work on my vehicle. He's done [censored] like this before.
 
Can anyone confirm that this would cause a no spark issue? He wants to throw money at it until it starts instead of diagnosing.
IMG_20170522_125722.jpg


IMG_20170522_125716.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: shDK
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Probably longer than you want it to.
GM cars will run hurt longer than most cars run at all.


I can say fore sure that...at least for the GM engines we see in Europe. That ain't true. I don't know about the engines you get in the US


That's 'cuz you only got half of the motor we would get. You'd get 4 bangers while we'd get the V8's.
laugh.gif
 
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