1994 Mustang 5.0 2300 miles 5W-30 Supertech conv

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Not looking too good for my Mustang. What do you guys think? Thinking about getting rid of this car. Needs a lot of work.

Mustang_02May2017.jpg


Car has more than indicated mileage (well over 300k, speedo cable was broken for a while). Compression test shows 155 +/- 10 psi on all cylinders. A little lifter tick at idle. Original oil (first analysis) inherited from previous owner was run well past its limitations and sludged a little bit, and additionally I believe the oil filter had failed. I used a Motorcraft FL-1A and 5W-30 supertech conventional in the current run.

Car has a plugged passenger side exhaust, causing various running issues. Otherwise decent mechanical condition for its age. No make-up oil was needed. It doesn't burn any significant amount.
 
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Id get rid of it while you still can. Unless there is some sentimental value, the repair bills will just keep growing.
 
Last I knew, most SuperTech oils were non-sodium. So I'd wonder where that 309 ppm Na is coming from. I did find a 2012 VOA for High Mileage Super Tech that did come with high Sodium. So some have come with sodium in the past.

I don't think the metal numbers look that terrible. But approaching 300K miles it's done well itself. The cost of a rebuilt/new engine could be more than the entire car is worth....unless you have an inexpensive source to get it done. If it were me, I'd start putting a higher quality oil in it...preferably a stronger 30 grade oil with a strong add pack. I wouldn't be relying on SuperTech for a 300K mile engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Id get rid of it while you still can. Unless there is some sentimental value, the repair bills will just keep growing.
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Then you can make payments or thousands for a decent replacement...
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Last I knew, most SuperTech oils were non-sodium. So I'd wonder where that 309 ppm Na is coming from. I did find a 2012 VOA for High Mileage Super Tech that did come with high Sodium. So some have come with sodium in the past.

I don't think the metal numbers look that terrible. But approaching 300K miles it's done well itself. The cost of a rebuilt/new engine could be more than the entire car is worth....unless you have an inexpensive source to get it done.


The latest VOA was their HM oil, and it contains sodium:

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/supertechHM.htm


Not nearly enough potassium to worry...
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
The latest VOA was their HM oil, and it contains sodium:

http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/supertechHM.htm


Not nearly enough potassium to worry...



For my high mileage 1994 Mustang....I'd look for a PP/Castrol Edge 0/5w-30/40 or M1 0w-40 FS with a much stronger Calcium, Zinc, Phos add pack. I'd pass on the Sodium-types for now as they don't appear to be slowing the wear down any. It certainly can't hurt any to switch. If you want to stay conventional, then go with a stout Rotella or something.
 
I am old school, so if it was mine, I would use the same oil, and throw in a bottle of STP oil treatment. Then after the approx. same miles test again and see if any difference. I know, I know, all it does is make the oil thick, but I have used it a lot over the years in high mileage cars, and it certainly didn't hurt anything, and I think made them last longer. Could be all in my head of course. In fact I have a bottle in my 65 mustang with 10w30 oil right now for summer cruising.
 
The issue with unloading it is-how much is a Mustang with over 300K (of unknown) miles worth? The 302 is a great engine, if the compression is holding, I'd fix the exhaust & just keep changing the oil every 3-4K with the cheapest HM oil I could find (QS Defy or even Meijer/Warren Oil Autoquest 5W30 or even 10W40) & drive it until it dies.
 
Switch to an HDEO 10w-30 if you want to stick to a conventional oil (which you should at this sort of change interval). If the engine had sludge, it was likely neglected and has a ton of build-up in it. As that build-up dissolves, the contaminants suspended in it will flush out into your new oil and show up in a UOA. So what you are seeing may not be current metals but accumulated historic ones. The fact that it is trending down is good.

Fix the exhaust issue and drive it until something more dire shows up, it doesn't sound like there is anything seriously wrong with it at this point.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Switch to an HDEO 10w-30 if you want to stick to a conventional oil (which you should at this sort of change interval). If the engine had sludge, it was likely neglected and has a ton of build-up in it. As that build-up dissolves, the contaminants suspended in it will flush out into your new oil and show up in a UOA. So what you are seeing may not be current metals but accumulated historic ones. The fact that it is trending down is good.

Fix the exhaust issue and drive it until something more dire shows up, it doesn't sound like there is anything seriously wrong with it at this point.


Appreciate the oil recommendation. I am thinking along the same lines. That it is historical wear that I am seeing as the sludge dissolves. I bought the car last year for $800 and it doesn't owe me anything. Other than the exhaust the only major problem with it is that second gear doesn't work. And right now I am debating about whether I even want to have the transmission rebuilt or just leave it the way it is.
 
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It's not worth much. I would keep it, run it with frequent changes, no additives and know that you got your money's worth from this Mustang.You might be surprised how long it will go. I ran a T-Bird with high iron levels like yours for many years. I would not rebuild the tranny on an $800 car.
 
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Let's not blame the lube here. I've seen many great UOAs from conventional ST lubes.
The engine is likely showing it's age, and (due to unknown past history) perhaps a bit of abuse/neglect?

Whether you keep or get rid of it is up to you. There's no way it's cheaper to get a brand new car. It may or may not be cheaper to get a decent used car. The 5.0L is VERY WELL supported in the aftermarket and getting a decent rebuild should be no problem.
 
Originally Posted By: MD1032
... Original oil (first analysis) inherited from previous owner was run well past its limitations and sludged a little bit, and additionally I believe the oil filter had failed. ...



With that information alone, I'd be treating it as an abused engine and run PYB or another oil known for its cleaning ability, changing the (inexpensive) filter every 3k or so. It might just need a good cleanup.

With that plan you have it all covered, what with DNewton3's true post about great aftermarket support and inexpensive rebuild ...it's a great Plan B.
 
Timing chain probably loose.I rebuilt a stock mustang roller cam engine from a 5.0 (.030 forged TRW pistons,recon.forged rods with ARP bolts,Al heads,new roller lifters)and have ran it 225k miles so far.Simple,reliable,inexpensive. 450,000 miles on the stock cam.
 
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