Newly built 406 UOA, 77 chevy, 10w-30 super tech

[1977c10phxdriver]

This is my newly built 406 small block in my 77 Silverado. It is a substantially built engine. Aluminum heads, Scat crank and rods, custom pistons, Comp Cam,,,, all the goodies. And I drive it very aggressively. After my initial break-in and one oil change, I ran supertech 10w-30 for approximately 2100 miles (odometer was broken, now fixed) and sent a sample to Blackstone. The opinion of Blackstone is positive but I am a little concerned the amount of lead and iron. I'm very happy with fuel dilution as I'm running a modified Quadrajet carburetor. I will run it about 2,000 miles and pull another sample and send it in and see what's happening. Any thoughts?
I'm now running NAPA 20w-50 per my machinists suggestion.

 

[The_Eric]

Your wear metals are that high even with the Frantz bypass?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

What are the main and rod clearances? Over 0035? Are the pistons hypereutectic, forged Al or cast Al with steel inserts? Rollerised cam?

Hope no mod BB oil pump. HP eater and dist scatterer.

 

[zeng]

High metal wear rates and high make up.
Used oil is still serviceable though.
Sensible suggestion from machinists with 20W50 indeed.

 

[Chris142]

Are you losing the Cam?

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

I miked every rod bearing every main bearing thrust, everything was perfect. Rods were .001, Main's I believe we're .0015 the Pistons are Keith Black aluminum I'm not sure if they were cast or forged I don't know. the cam is a flat tappet comp with matching lifters roller tip rockers only cuz I just ran out of money. standard Milling oil pump running 50 pounds on the freeway 35 at idle compressions excellent top of the France filter when I changed it last time was clean no build up. I'm going to send a report to my machinist and see what he thinks also.

 

[bigt61]

Oil looks great and metals are fine for a break-in run - except for lead. Possibly just a piece of dirt that will work itself out. Hopefully you stayed away from any Scotch Brite pads during the rebuild. Just monitor it and make sure your air filter system stays tight.

 

[bullwinkle]

Wow-the FIRST gasoline engine I've seen in a LONG time that needs an HDEO! Mark, don't forget to conceal your personal info, you don't want that getting out there. I would run T5, T4, or even Valvoline All-Fleet 10W30, you're running a high enough flat tappet cam that you need the extra ZDDP.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

What is HDEO? The lift on the cam is marginal it is a high-torque producing cam so I really did not need to worry about heavy valve spring pressure for roller lifters. I ran a really good break in oil as I always do when I build an engine. I'm just going to have to wait it out and see what happens I hope the numbers come down on my next test.

Is there an app that makes this more s-phone friendly?

 

[BackwoodsAL]

Rotella T4 might be a good oil to run in it. I use that in my old Dodge Ram with a Slant 6 because of the flat tappet cam and it brings back good readings on iron. Hopefully most of that is just some extra left over wear-in.

By the way, "HDEO" is "Heavy Duty Engine Oil".

 

[340_Magnum]

Have you ever thought about Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 15w-40 partial synthetic for this SBC with a flat tappet cam? A lot of engine builders swear by the stuff.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

I used Brad Pen 5w-20 for break in. Now I have in Napa which I've been told is made by Valvoline. I'll get about a thousand miles on this oil and pull off a couple of ounces and send it in and see what happens. Thank you for the responses I'll keep up on this and let you know how it goes

 

[DoubleWasp]

Crying for VR1 20/50.