Torquing axle nuts

[Klutch9]

In a few days I'll be replacing one of the CV axles in the Sedona. Torque spec for the axle nut is 177-199 ft/lbs, yet my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft/lbs. I know that some people just take an impact gun to it and call it a day, which I'm not going to do. But how critical is exact torque? I was thinking of torquing it to 150, then using my breaker bar to turn the nut the slightest bit tighter. The nut gets staked into a slot in the axle, so it's not going to back off no matter what. Suggestions?

 

[Nick1994]

You should be able to rent a torque wrench from your local auto parts store, then you get your money back when you're done.

 

[The_Eric]

In terms of rotation, 30-40lbs at that torque can be miniscule. Rent or buy the proper tool.

 

[andyd]

put 150 ft/lbs on the nut with your wrench. Then turn the nut an additional turn,further if you need to line up to the notch. The directions gave you a 22 ft/lb range. Thats 10% Thats gudentite in my driveway

 

[Nissan101]

For something like that you should try to obtain a wrench that can go to that torque value.
or you can just tighten it until u cant go no more.

Set the max torque value on your wrench and torque it to 150.
Then if you can attach your fitting to a breaker bar and continue again.
Keep in mind not to strip anything. (you should know when its too much)

 

[WillsYoda]

When I've hand tightened as much as I can with a standard breaker bar, I get around 190 ft-lb.

 

[PaulH]

I like to know the torque is right. get the proper tool. on my Volvo after a front wheel bearing, it was 89 ftlb plus 60 degrees

 

[EdwardC]

If you want, you can get close by using a ratchet or breaker bar of known length, putting it parallel to the ground, then use your known body weight. Say you're 180lbs, then just step on the ratchet/breaker at 12" from the nut. Don't bounce or anything, just step on slowly. The key is that you want to keep the bar parallel to the ground and your weight going straight down.

 

[Eddie]

+1 EdwardC. That is the way I tighten a Porsche rear axle nuts to 250 ft/lbs. 356 air cooled days. ed

 

[eljefino]

The point of correct torque is to preload the bearing, not to keep the nut from backing off. So if you get it wrong the wheel bearing will wear out quickly.

That said if you're going to do the breaker bar thing, stake it where you put it and don't second guess yourself.

 

[doitmyself]

I'm not good at guessing torque values. I would get the free loaner wrench from Autozone or Oreilly. If fact, I would borrow one from each place and test them out first to see if they are reasonably accurate. If your Oreilly stores are like mine, their tools probably get less use and might be in better shape.

 

[DriveHard]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
The point of correct torque is to preload the bearing, not to keep the nut from backing off. So if you get it wrong the wheel bearing will wear out quickly.

That said if you're going to do the breaker bar thing, stake it where you put it and don't second guess yourself.



If it is a taper bearing (which many of them are) this is not the case. If it is a wheel hub assembly, the bearing is set from the factory, and no matter how much you tighten it you won't change it. If it is a tapered bearing you are setting yourself, this is NOT the correct way to set pre-load. If you can spin the wheel easily by hand, the bearing is not in pre-load. What you are more likely doing is putting the system in tension so that there is less deformation due to loading, which increases bearing life.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I'm not good at guessing torque values. I would get the free loaner wrench from Autozone or Oreilly. If fact, I would borrow one from each place and test them out first to see if they are reasonably accurate. If your Oreilly stores are like mine, their tools probably get less use and might be in better shape.


A free loaner from Autozone or Oreilly is the same as guessing.

 

[surfstar]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9
In a few days I'll be replacing one of the CV axles in the Sedona. Torque spec for the axle nut is 177-199 ft/lbs, yet my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft/lbs. I know that some people just take an impact gun to it and call it a day, which I'm not going to do. But how critical is exact torque? I was thinking of torquing it to 150, then using my breaker bar to turn the nut the slightest bit tighter. The nut gets staked into a slot in the axle, so it's not going to back off no matter what. Suggestions?


This sounds perfectly reasonable to me.