PCV Valve Test: How strong should the vacuum be?

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I followed the below FSM procedure for determining if the PCV valve is working on my Mazda CX-5 (65,000 miles). How strong should the suction be to indicate it's working? The vacuum is strong enough to hold a receipt but not whole (8.5x11) piece of paper. When feeling with my finger, I would describe it as medium suction at best, though that's obviously hard to quantify. I googled it and searched on here but I just don't know how strong it should be.

During a pre-purchase inspection before I bought the car last month, the tech said the PCV valve wasn't working. But it requires taking off the intake manifold to replace so I want to make sure it's not working before going through all that work.
 
With 65k miles replace it with a new oem one. Cheap insurance. On some Hondas the internal spring will break around 60k miles. Not sure about Mazdas.
 
Entirely different car. On our 2004 Volvo inline 5 cylinder, the PCV system vacuum after service is acceptable at -2.0 inches of water. A very slight vacuum.
 
When growing up in the 60's, my Father had a 'cheap' tool for checking vacuum.
It measured 2" diameter x 1/2 " thick.
To use:
1) Remove Oil-Fill Cap from valve cover
2) Set the vacuum tool on the Valve cover
There was a small plastic-ball that would travel around and stop at different readings Low / OK / High
I don't know how good it was.

I like gages that have actual numbers (not just RED / YELLOW / GREEN
As another poster stated, a reading of 2" of Water-Column was good.

Inches of Water Column is just another (very FINE) unit of measure.
Used by the Gas Company and Furnace Repair folks.

Question: If you wanted to check the pressure at PCV Valve, can the pressure be checked at any location with vacuum (oil fill hole),
or does it need to be checked at PCV Valve ? ? ?
 
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Also i believe this engine has a vacuum pump on it like a diesel so I would make sure you take the reading in the right spot.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 definitely check the warranty for this is part of the emission system.


I believe the only emissions components eligible for the 8/80 warranty are the catalytic converter and ECU. Everything else, including the PCV system, are 2/24 unless covered longer by manufacturer's warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
With 65k miles replace it with a new oem one. Cheap insurance. On some Hondas the internal spring will break around 60k miles. Not sure about Mazdas.

Agreed, if it was as easy as my PT. I replaced that one every 60K cause it was so easy. But on this Mazda, the OEM part is about $30 so it cheap if I DIY it, which I would, but it requires a ton of work that’s a little over my head so it would be super time consuming so I just want to ensure it’s not working before doing the work.
Originally Posted By: bugeye
Entirely different car. On our 2004 Volvo inline 5 cylinder, the PCV system vacuum after service is acceptable at -2.0 inches of water. A very slight vacuum.

Ah, nice to know! I’m assuming since the FSM doesn’t specify the strength of the vacuum, very slight suction would be acceptable. That, your comment, and the fact that the MPG I’m getting is the EPA rating, I’m leaning towards the valve working.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
I thought there was a federal emissions warranty that covered the PCV for 8 years or 80k miles? I would ask the dealer.

Originally Posted By: Danh

I believe the only emissions components eligible for the 8/80 warranty are the catalytic converter and ECU. Everything else, including the PCV system, are 2/24 unless covered longer by manufacturer's warranty.

Correct. I wasn’t aware of that warranty but the EPA has a very helpful doc (https://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyPDF.cgi?Dockey=P100NNQH.pdf) that shows it only covers the cat, ECU, and OBD. The federally required 2 year/24,000 mile warranty does cover the PCV valve.

The manufacture warranty doesn’t cover it either as the miles are 65,000.
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
When growing up in the 60's, my Father had a 'cheap' tool for checking vacuum.
It measured 2" diameter x 1/2 " thick.
To use:
1) Remove Oil-Fill Cap from valve cover
2) Set the vacuum tool on the Valve cover
There was a small plastic-ball that would travel around and stop at different readings Low / OK / High
I don't know how good it was.

I like gages that have actual numbers (not just RED / YELLOW / GREEN
As another poster stated, a reading of 2" of Water-Column was good.

Inches of Water Column is just another (very FINE) unit of measure.
Used by the Gas Company and Furnace Repair folks.

Question: If you wanted to check the pressure at PCV Valve, can the pressure be checked at any location with vacuum (oil fill hole),
or does it need to be checked at PCV Valve ? ? ?

Really? If it could be measured at the oil fill hole, that would be easy to buy that device and use it. I’ll research and see about the oil fill hole. At the oil fill valve there is a fairly strong vacuum, though the vacuum pulsates.

Originally Posted By: E150GT
Also i believe this engine has a vacuum pump on it like a diesel so I would make sure you take the reading in the right spot.

I’m somewhat of a novice at mechanical work (I’ve done spark plugs, oil changes and a power steering flush) but I did make sure to check it where factory service manual specifies.

Thanks all for your comments! I'm obviously still open to any help but for now, I'll research the device/measurement method larryinnewyork mentioned and of short of that, I'll assume the valve is working given that the FSM doesn’t specify the strength of the vacuum which makes me think slight suction would be acceptable combined with bugeye's comment and the fact that the MPG I’m getting is the EPA rating.
 
For your car, how about a simple Vacuum Gauge you mount to the Dash-Board.
You could mount it or just get it out for Diagnostics work.

The big concern would be deciding where to hook it up if you want to check PCV & what the pressure should be.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-lb-inch-Vacuum-Gauge-Tester-Made-in-USA-/152538462375?hash=item23840038a7:g:sA8AAOSwzqFZAW8m
Just for reference. I would not buy this one because the needle is showing a reading.
OR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUN-VACUUM-GAUGE-NOS-/332205209012?hash=item4d58f935b4:g:gvAAAOSw9GhYhPh6
This one actually has an area on the Dial showing PCV range
OR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Tool-20300-Engine-Vacuum-Gauge-And-Fuel-Pump-Tester-/282417565361?hash=item41c1660eb1:g:FMcAAOSwuxFY34D-
 
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