2017 Kia Sportage SX 2.0l turbo GDI engine oil

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pcguy

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I just bought a new 2017 Kia Sportage with the 2.0l t-gdi turbocharged engine.

The owners manual calls for 5w-30 conventional oil, and a 7,500 mile interval for normal service use. severe is 5,000 miles on the same oil.
they also have an allowed viscosity chart, which starts at 5w-30 and also allows 10w-30 and 5w-40 depending on temperatures in your area.

I would like to run pennzoil platinum oil, and with that in mind, specifically 0w-40 which should be just fine on a 4 cylinder turbo engine. I will also be having the change done at the dealership with my oil and their OEM filters, to avoid any warranty problems. I will also be getting used oil analysis from blackstone to support the 7,500 mile interval when the dealer tries to insist that all driving in orlando is severe duty which it is NOT. Orlando is basically the ideal operating environment for an automobile. But, they always try to insist our hot (mid 90's summer temperatures are stressful) climate is hard on engine oil. This is just a ploy to get you in there twice as often.

Anyone else face a similar situation? How did you handle it?
 
I'd recommend the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (preferred) or the Mobil1 0W-40 (in a pinch). Both are in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25 (less if on sell or with a rebate).

For sure, change the oil and filter every 4K miles as the OCI is normally 5K miles for this 2.0L engine and these are know for being bad fuel diluting engines (I know, I have one).
 
I have the 2.0T in the Hyundai. My wife drives it in Miami rush hour traffic daily. We have used Conventional, Blends and Synthetics with 3k mile oci. We've owned it since late 2012 and it still runs like a beast.

Our manual specifies API SM/ILSAC GF-4 with the same viscosity range.

I must add though, Hyundai's recommendation for the current turbo equipped vehicles is ACEA A5. When I asked if my vehicle should go with this new spec, the answer was "no, the recommended specs will be fine if the owners manual oci is followed."

Beautiful vehicle, congrats.
 
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
I'd recommend the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (preferred) or the Mobil1 0W-40 (in a pinch). Both are in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25 (less if on sell or with a rebate).

For sure, change the oil and filter every 4K miles as the OCI is normally 5K miles for this 2.0L engine and these are know for being bad fuel diluting engines (I know, I have one).


I second Castrol Edge FTT 0w-40 A3/B4 (made in Germany) as it's an excellent oil and can still be had locally or on Amazon for reasonable money.
Made in Germany Castrol is in league of its own unlike US made not so good Castrol. German Castrol is also a real synth Group IV oil.
 
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
I'd recommend the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (preferred) or the Mobil1 0W-40 (in a pinch). Both are in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25 (less if on sell or with a rebate).

For sure, change the oil and filter every 4K miles as the OCI is normally 5K miles for this 2.0L engine and these are know for being bad fuel diluting engines (I know, I have one).


Just curious why only 4,000 miles even when using high quality synthetic oil? Especially if you run oil analysis and determine when the additive is depleted and when / if fuel dilution becomes an issue?

I had the 2.0t engine in a 2011 sonata and there wasn't much fuel dilution and additives were still good after going 7,500 miles. Nearly identical engine. I will likely start the intervals at 5,000 miles and test, before proceeding to 6,500 and 7,500 and use the UOA to determine when to stop (likely 7,500 due to warranty)
 
Originally Posted By: pcguy
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN
I'd recommend the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (preferred) or the Mobil1 0W-40 (in a pinch). Both are in 5qt jugs at Walmart for about $25 (less if on sell or with a rebate).

For sure, change the oil and filter every 4K miles as the OCI is normally 5K miles for this 2.0L engine and these are know for being bad fuel diluting engines (I know, I have one).


Just curious why only 4,000 miles even when using high quality synthetic oil? Especially if you run oil analysis and determine when the additive is depleted and when / if fuel dilution becomes an issue?

I had the 2.0t engine in a 2011 sonata and there wasn't much fuel dilution and additives were still good after going 7,500 miles. Nearly identical engine. I will likely start the intervals at 5,000 miles and test, before proceeding to 6,500 and 7,500 and use the UOA to determine when to stop (likely 7,500 due to warranty)


Because to keep your 10yr/100K mile warranty you have to change the oil per schedule. For the 2.4L it is 7.5K miles but for the 2.0T it is 5K miles (normal service). The "Severe Service" is 3,750 miles for the 2.0T per Kia/Hyundai. I will err on the side of caution and change my oil/filter at around the 4K mileage mark.

Also, you MUST do a proper UOA to monitor fuel dilution (and use your nose as well) and the additive package of the oil. Blackstone does NOT accurately measure this but Polaris (i.e., Oil Analyzers) does using Gas Chromatography methods. Using GC, you will find pretty bad fuel dilution with these GDI motors from Kia/Hyundai, especially the turbos. It's pretty universal, I'm sad to say.

I posted a recent example of my Kia Optima SX UOA with samples sent to both BlackStone and Polaris. MASSIVE difference in results for fuel dilution reports. I have a very healthy engine to boot.
 
Last edited:
Why acea a3 is better than acea c3? Is that for better wear protection? A gdi engine wont benefit from a low ash oil to protect from carbon build up?
 
I wonder if Kia has changed the maintenance schedule? My owners manual shows the following
hEpVDlM.png


that seems to indicate an interval of 6,500 miles for the 2.0 T-GDI engine in my sportage.

I am curious what changes Hyundai / Kia has made to the turbo Theta II engine, as power is down, torque is down from the engines that came out in 2011, I understand there was assembly issues that lead to the engine recall, but I never ran in to a problem with my 2011 model.
 
Originally Posted By: pcguy
This is the viscosity chart I was talking about in the original post

CvIf8MM.jpg



I like the idea that they aren't subscribing to one size fits all like some mfgs. do or did.
 
Originally Posted By: Costas00
Why acea a3 is better than acea c3? Is that for better wear protection? A gdi engine wont benefit from a low ash oil to protect from carbon build up?


A3/B4 has stronger wear protection over C3...

C3 has less TBN....wich is important if you dont have ULS gasoline (low on sulphur) like we have in EU
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
Will you ever see below 0f? Then a 10w is good. Above -20c the only thing 0w does better is empty your pocket.

10w40a3/b4 for sure.

The only problem is that a 10w-30 A3/B4 in North America isn't very easy to find. Virtually all our A3/B4 options here are marketed and priced as synthetics, so something like Castrol 0w-40 A3/B4 will be the same price as M1 10w-30 HM (assuming that's still A3). The only shortcut here is an HDEO.
wink.gif
 
To avoid possible warranty issues, I always follow the manufacturer's requirements for oil spec and grade as well as OCI. An ACEA A5, 5W40 synthetic would be my call.
 
I am 30 minutes west of Orlando. Your driving habits will dictate the OCI along with our climate. Do you idle in traffic a lot? How many miles is your commute? A lot of stop and go or mostly highway? A UOA will give you a decent amount of info to support your decision.
I follow my severe service schedule because I drive 2 miles each way for work. I had a Focus ST (2.0 turbo) and changed it every 4k and my Frontier gets an OC every 3750. Overkill? Maybe, but when an OC costs me $22, it's cheap peace of mind.
I would use M1 5w40 in your car and never look back.
 
E4 is another one that is a bit hard to find here. E7, E9 is quite easy, since that corresponds to CJ-4 (and CK-4) fairly well, giving you both the low SA and higher TBN, although TBN not quite at E4 levels. An E4 lube would probably have to be a special order for most people. But, at least E7, E9 doesn't automatically mean a top end synthetic, here.
 
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