Lubri Moly Mos2 in a new Subaru Outback

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I have about 6,000 miles on my 2017 Subaru outback Limited. I just put Lubri-Moly Mos2 in. I felt it just may protect some on cold starts. I thought the car was broken in enough. Any opinion as the Subaru flat four is a different animal than my old BMW?
smile.gif
 
With a newer engine I would lean towards Liqui-Moly Ceratec instead of MoS2. However, both will run fine. I've used MoS2 in a Jeep 4.7, Audi 3.0, Mazda 2.3 and Subaru 2. 5 and it has always worked as described.
 
Your car was probably all broken in before you drove it home for the first time.

What are you expecting from this experiment?

I really like the idea that Subaru has stuck to the boxer engine with full time all wheel drive. Apparently they are very reliable cars. I'm considering the new generation 2018 Outback. I think of the Outback as a station wagon and it's available with a manual transmission, a big plus for me.

Please post your observations as they develop, whatever they might be. That kind of stuff is what makes BITOG worth browsing and getting involved.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Your car was probably all broken in before you drove it home for the first time.

What are you expecting from this experiment?
Less noise on a cold start

I really like the idea that Subaru has stuck to the boxer engine with full time all wheel drive. Apparently they are very reliable cars. I'm considering the new generation 2018 Outback. I think of the Outback as a station wagon and it's available with a manual transmission, a big plus for me.

I do not think the US Outback is available with a manual trany.

Please post your observations as they develop, whatever they might be. That kind of stuff is what makes BITOG worth browsing and getting involved.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Does your Subaru owner's manual have anything to say about adding aftermarket additives to the crankcase? Just curious...


Like all manufacturers, the lawyers do not recommend additives. Yet some dealers sell additives?
 
Could end up as Big mistake. Tried it (Due to fanboyz promoting on BITOG - and my own MISTAKE) Killed my new Honda Fit engine. BTW, The engine isn't fully worn in till 15 - 20K miles.
Now it works fine in a NON FILTER application - going fine in my 6500 Generac CHONDA OHV engine mixed in with a qt of Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 "racing" synthetic.

Subaru used moly pads on their piston skirts - as does most EVERYBODY these days.

You put a POWDER emulsion into you engine. Mico particles tend to glomerate in these environments. Now you DONT have a micro particle mud anymore.

Good luck anyways. Lets us know how it goes.
Maybe my Honda was a grenade with a loose pin
smile.gif
It WAS running strong before the LiquiMoly
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Could end up as Big mistake. Tried it (Due to fanboyz promoting on BITOG - and my own MISTAKE) Killed my new Honda Fit engine. BTW, The engine isn't fully worn in till 15 - 20K miles.
Now it works fine in a NON FILTER application - going fine in my 6500 Generac CHONDA OHV engine mixed in with a qt of Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 "racing" synthetic.

Subaru used moly pads on their piston skirts - as does most EVERYBODY these days.

You put a POWDER emulsion into you engine. Mico particles tend to glomerate in these environments. Now you DONT have a micro particle mud anymore.

Good luck anyways. Lets us know how it goes.
Maybe my Honda was a grenade with a loose pin
smile.gif
It WAS running strong before the LiquiMoly


I sure hope there is not a problem. It works fine on my BMW.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Could end up as Big mistake. Tried it (Due to fanboyz promoting on BITOG - and my own MISTAKE) Killed my new Honda Fit engine. BTW, The engine isn't fully worn in till 15 - 20K miles.
Now it works fine in a NON FILTER application - going fine in my 6500 Generac CHONDA OHV engine mixed in with a qt of Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 "racing" synthetic.

Subaru used moly pads on their piston skirts - as does most EVERYBODY these days.

You put a POWDER emulsion into you engine. Mico particles tend to glomerate in these environments. Now you DONT have a micro particle mud anymore.

Good luck anyways. Lets us know how it goes.
Maybe my Honda was a grenade with a loose pin
smile.gif
It WAS running strong before the LiquiMoly


I sure hope there is not a problem. It works fine on my BMW.


No worries sir. ARCO has claimed to have blown up about 10 engines since I've been on this board. I used a full can EVERY single oil change on my wife's 2009 Subaru with the 4 cylinder boxer. I even would change the synthetic filter every other OCI as well. The filter was never clogged.

I always ran thicker oil in her Subaru. I think the Boxer engines like it. That is just my opinion. I would run GC in the winter, and M1 TDT in the summer. Always with a bottle of LM MOS2 on board.

Here was a UOA I posted awhile ago on the car (we longer have it):
2009 Forester UOA

Here are pics of a Napa Platinum that was run on that Subaru for 2 OCI's for a total of 12,571 miles:
http://imgur.com/a/sXyjq
 
Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Could end up as Big mistake. Tried it (Due to fanboyz promoting on BITOG - and my own MISTAKE) Killed my new Honda Fit engine. BTW, The engine isn't fully worn in till 15 - 20K miles.
Now it works fine in a NON FILTER application - going fine in my 6500 Generac CHONDA OHV engine mixed in with a qt of Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 "racing" synthetic.

Subaru used moly pads on their piston skirts - as does most EVERYBODY these days.

You put a POWDER emulsion into you engine. Mico particles tend to glomerate in these environments. Now you DONT have a micro particle mud anymore.

Good luck anyways. Lets us know how it goes.
Maybe my Honda was a grenade with a loose pin
smile.gif
It WAS running strong before the LiquiMoly


I sure hope there is not a problem. It works fine on my BMW.


Arco's experience is rarely the norm. If the RAMPANT CAPITAL LETTERS weren't a warning sign enough, go read through some older posts and decide for yourself.
wink.gif


My experience with LM MoS2 has been positive in both the newer Mazda and my older VW diesel. And all my outdoor power equipment. Better UOA results as well. There is likely no downside and a slight upside to using it, and if it makes you feel better, why not?
 
I tried it in an Ecotec 2.2L in my Saturn Vue and my old '00 Civic HX.

No increase in mpg. Who knows if the engines ran "smoother" or quieter or not. But I could not find a quantifiable benefit to using it, so I stopped. It was not life changing, as it seems to be for some on this board. Maybe they got my hopes up too high
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Does your Subaru owner's manual have anything to say about adding aftermarket additives to the crankcase? Just curious...


Like all manufacturers, the lawyers do not recommend additives. Yet some dealers sell additives?


Lawyers can't account for some of the potions that people come up with so recycle d against it, where dealers sell additives that either don't work or are known to be safe.
 
Only seen benefits in European and [censored] stuff, can't comment on US stuff.

As a known FM with a sub-micron particle size, what's the worst that could happen? And more importantly, how and by what mechanism?
 
I have used mos2 on 15 different engines - cars. I have experienced only positive benefits. Easier starts and better MPG's.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Could end up as Big mistake. Tried it (Due to fanboyz promoting on BITOG - and my own MISTAKE) Killed my new Honda Fit engine. BTW, The engine isn't fully worn in till 15 - 20K miles.
Now it works fine in a NON FILTER application - going fine in my 6500 Generac CHONDA OHV engine mixed in with a qt of Valvoline 10w30 VR-1 "racing" synthetic.

Subaru used moly pads on their piston skirts - as does most EVERYBODY these days.

You put a POWDER emulsion into you engine. Mico particles tend to glomerate in these environments. Now you DONT have a micro particle mud anymore.

Good luck anyways. Lets us know how it goes.
Maybe my Honda was a grenade with a loose pin
smile.gif
It WAS running strong before the LiquiMoly
Not so. Liquimoly may lighten up the wallet but damage the engine? Nope.
 
People like to believe these kinds of additives actually improve oil. They imagine it does without real evidence. The only evidence MOS2 could be beneficial (compared to a good synthetic oil) is when you are breaking in an engine from zero to 3,000 miles, where the moly particles may fill the machine marks micro valleys and break it all in more gradually. And even that may be overstating any benefit.
After 6,000 miles like Russel has, no benefit I can see over using an excellent full syn oil all by itself, no additives.
 
For Run-In, you want is an oil that has high ZDDP AW. You don't want an oil with a lot of friction reducers. Moly is not need for Run-In.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
For Run-In, you want is an oil that has high ZDDP AW. You don't want an oil with a lot of friction reducers. Moly is not need for Run-In.


That suggests to me that the high moly seen in many UOAs from FF is just a byproduct of the assembly process, not a sign of an attempt by the manufacturer to aid the run-in process.
 
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